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Post by rich on Feb 24, 2014 19:56:37 GMT 1
As above, any model YPVS shock will be a direct swap and there are several alternatives to the original shock. Fazer, R6 etc need a few mods but are worth doing. I also can't see the point of trying to keep the belt adjuster thingy. To keep originality !!! If you're changing the shock for something else then it won't be original anyway
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Post by rich on Feb 24, 2014 19:54:58 GMT 1
I would have thought 260's with pods and Lomas pipes is lean Probably around 300 Steve Agreed
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Post by rich on Feb 23, 2014 22:46:56 GMT 1
As a guide, you're looking at about £400 for a set of pipes, maybe a bit more depending on finish. Gibson Allspeeds shouldn't need jetting changes but you may need to tweak the carb settings to get the best from them. Others can probably advise on the TSAs.
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Post by rich on Feb 23, 2014 18:38:59 GMT 1
YPVS crank is slightly longer. LC cranks usually have 4L0 on the rod, YPVS have 29L.
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Post by rich on Feb 23, 2014 1:31:28 GMT 1
I've seen F2 pipes on an LC. They do fit but stick out a long way so make the back wheel look very skinny! You will have to slot the rear mounting plate to align with the hanger mount but they could still be refitted to an F2 if required so no harm done.
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Post by rich on Feb 22, 2014 0:28:48 GMT 1
Anyone know what happened to this? Original post was from 2010 and the OP hasn't been online since last year?
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Post by rich on Feb 21, 2014 13:52:18 GMT 1
As above, any model YPVS shock will be a direct swap and there are several alternatives to the original shock. Fazer, R6 etc need a few mods but are worth doing. I also can't see the point of trying to keep the belt adjuster thingy.
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Post by rich on Feb 18, 2014 23:25:09 GMT 1
As an aside, I would still give it a try on a bike. It may be out of tolerance but I wouldn't mind betting that it may work!
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Post by rich on Feb 18, 2014 19:03:41 GMT 1
4, 2 on each side
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Post by rich on Feb 18, 2014 16:58:04 GMT 1
Remove the main jet and brass washer. Refit main jet without washer. Lightly tap the head of the jet with a plastic or wooden screwdriver handle or similar object. Needle jet should loosen. Careful when you refit as the needle jet has a keyway that lines up with a pin in the carb bore.
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Post by rich on Feb 17, 2014 22:22:42 GMT 1
Only one reason to do that - someone has bought it as a donor bike and used the engine etc. for an LC hybrid and is trying to get their money back!
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Post by rich on Feb 17, 2014 12:50:51 GMT 1
Good stuff, Dave looks like a talented guy!
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Post by rich on Feb 17, 2014 10:14:52 GMT 1
Some import (Switzerland and Germany??) models were restricted through different pipes and carb settings.
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Post by rich on Feb 17, 2014 1:01:41 GMT 1
Fantastic stuff
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Post by rich on Feb 15, 2014 17:15:36 GMT 1
Fitting YPVS reed blocks to an LC is quite a common mod. The mounting holes are the same but the YPVS block is larger so you have to open out the inlet tract. Not done it myself but it's quite a lot of work and you need to be careful not to break through the sides of the barrel. You'll also need YPVS rubbers and balance pipe too.
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Post by rich on Feb 15, 2014 15:26:34 GMT 1
Happy days...............
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Post by rich on Feb 14, 2014 22:14:47 GMT 1
I can entirely see the point that the clutch gear could potentially 'climb up' the primary if the motor locked but having said that I have suffered a couple of seizures that locked the back wheel and never had an issue or the slightest sign of the cases being forced apart and I never fit the plate. Personally I reckon it's a belt and braces thing as there are crankcase bolts quite close either side of the clutch bearing.
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Post by rich on Feb 14, 2014 22:06:23 GMT 1
MK3 Gamma fairings are very hard to come by, especially genuine top fairings. Tailpieces are pretty common and cheap and tanks are also very cheap compared to LC and YPVS and don't seem to rot anywhere near as bad either. Don't see too many sidepanels or belly pans come up so I guess they are quite rare too. The proper MK3 mirrors are rocking horse too. Pattern ones do fit but are too close in so you can't see bugger all out of them. Proper MK3 ones have longer arms. Funnily enough, basket case Gammas do sometimes come up quite cheap. They don't seem such a popular restoration choice as LCs so you can get them for £2-300 if you are lucky but then you would have to hunt down the bits. I don't think pipes are that rare.
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Post by rich on Feb 12, 2014 1:43:20 GMT 1
Oops, I've bought an fzr400 1wg caliper. You live and learn I suppose. I wonder if I could manufacture a bracket to make it fit? Just had a look and the 1WG orginally has the big twin pot calipers (like the MK2/MK3 caliper but bigger) so does have 83mm centres. So hopefully the caliper you have bought is a 4 pot that someone has retrofitted to a 1WG! Hope so
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Post by rich on Feb 12, 2014 0:07:10 GMT 1
It's gotta be an FZR400 3TJ caliper with 83mm hole centres. Most FZR calipers are 100mm spacing so won't fit.
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Post by rich on Feb 11, 2014 20:07:57 GMT 1
Coming along nicely there Dusty, great news about the shock too
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Clocks
Feb 11, 2014 20:02:31 GMT 1
Post by rich on Feb 11, 2014 20:02:31 GMT 1
My suggestion would be to hunt ebay for a set of import TZR or FZR clocks and fit your dials and wiring into the housings. Many of these bikes use the same clocks as the naked N model YPVS so will look good. Only difference is some of them have a shroud over the idiot light but otherwise should be plug and play.
Edit: looks like FZR 1000 Genesis use similar clocks and there's some cheap bits on ebay now.
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Post by rich on Feb 11, 2014 12:56:18 GMT 1
Dogs? What do you mean Rich. Sorry I should have explained a bit more! Not all of the gears in the box are splined onto the gear shafts. Some gears are 'floating' and drive by engaging with the fixed gears using dogs (pins) and slots. As per Roofmonster and Steve's replies, there is some play to allow the dogs to engage properly. What you are feeling is the play between the dogs and slots. This pic will hopefully show it better (random Google pic, not an RD!):
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Post by rich on Feb 10, 2014 20:10:21 GMT 1
Dogs
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Post by rich on Feb 10, 2014 11:37:01 GMT 1
Bare, it also depends on where the engine sits in the frame. My Yamagamma was running a 4.00 rear wheel with 140 tyre and the chain run still had to come inwards to achieve alignment.
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Post by rich on Feb 10, 2014 0:02:56 GMT 1
No worries, the LC spacer is p/n 90387-25192 and Fowlers (am I allowed to say that??!) are showing it available to order. Only a couple of quid too Or I guess you could get someone with a lathe to shorten a YPVS one? You'll also need a couple of the thick clutch thrust washers to go between the sprocket and nut or it'll bottom out before it's tight.
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Post by rich on Feb 9, 2014 16:47:01 GMT 1
Bushy, I think the YPVS spacer is nearer 5-6mm wider than the LC. The width difference between 520 and 530 sprockets is only 3.15mm but the YPVS chain run is also further away from the motor.
I had to fiddle with the chain run on the Yamagamma and used an LC spacer plus an old clutch thrust washer either side of the sprocket to get it right. I was using a Yam wheel though.
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Post by rich on Feb 9, 2014 11:56:18 GMT 1
Yep, just the one retainer on the crank but it should sit in the bottom case not the top.
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Post by rich on Feb 8, 2014 22:57:44 GMT 1
Nice one Pete. Couple of things you might not be aware of though: The bike uses a CDI ignition which is independent of the battery and is powered direct from coils in the alternator stator. The bike will start and run fine with a flat battery or even no battery at all. So I doubt that was the reason for it not starting. You do need a battery though to keep the electrics working smoothly. 100 psi compression is ok for a standard bike but is getting a bit low. I wouldn't worry too much though as long as it starts and goes ok. It does sound like the left side float was sticking and that would have made it hard to start due to being flooded. It might pay to give the carbs a going over and maybe the fuel tap too. Sometimes they can pass fuel even when off and make it flood after a few days. I had a 250lc that did the same and was an absolute pig to start. It would often shoot unburnt fuel out of both pipes when it eventually started! Hope this helps and have fun
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Post by rich on Feb 8, 2014 19:41:34 GMT 1
Thanks guys! Yes the photo's were taken along the Pett level road and was one of the first rides out after I finished it last year. Done about 100 miles now but haven't ridden it at all this year due to crap weather Doddy, the pipes are chromed Nikons with Swarbrick 7" carbon cans.
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