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Post by muttsnuts on Apr 22, 2020 13:45:56 GMT 1
try turning the reeds round 180 degrees, that normally sorts it, sometimes they have a little bow in them, so only seat one way
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RS500
Apr 22, 2020 10:15:32 GMT 1
500RG likes this
Post by muttsnuts on Apr 22, 2020 10:15:32 GMT 1
hi pal not chatted for a while now . thats a really stunning build again ! lol mine is finnished just needs a couple of things doing pics dont do mine justice you have to see it to take in all the detail i bet yours is the same . if you know anyone after something a bit different 2 stroke 500 i think i would sell mine ,i would be gutted but i cant see me riding it . its a ready made hybrid that is as new , no one has ridden it ,not a mark or scratch any where everything is new. Hi mate - how you doing? Do you have any pictures / video you can post, I would love to see it. Try posting it on RGV500 & RG r 500 facebook, you may get some interest. So what are you planning on building next - when you sell this beast ! I have a couple of videos of it running, one at Donnington and one going down the road, not sure if I can post them on here but will try, if not,send me your email and I'll email them to you
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RS500
Apr 21, 2020 21:59:24 GMT 1
500RG likes this
Post by muttsnuts on Apr 21, 2020 21:59:24 GMT 1
nice build, coming along lovely, reminds me doing my 421, I am on with another at the moment, but its a 500cc twin this time, running R6 suspension etc, will get round to posting some stuff up in due course. For now a couple of pictures of my 421, I've never got round to deciding what to paint it, so for now its like "batmans bike" ! I suspect your's is going to be much better than my 421, you decided what paint scheme its having, that's what I am struggling with at the moment
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Post by muttsnuts on Apr 21, 2020 12:03:51 GMT 1
Anyone got a spare genuine 0 ring for the coolant pipe I can buy from them please :-) yes I've got brand new Yamaha ones on the shelf, PM me if you need one sending
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Post by muttsnuts on Apr 21, 2020 9:45:13 GMT 1
it could be the kick starter gear clattering the idler gear due to wear on the kick starter gear/scroll, or it could be clutch chatter, but first off, what RPM is it ticking over at, if you raise the tickover speed, does the noise go away, I see this alot and raising the tickover by 100rpm can make the difference, when it does, I've put it down to the clutch not having the rubbers fitted between the plates, if raising the tickover speed solves it, I've tended to leave it alone and I've not had any customers come back saying they have had a failure of any sort (touch wood) !
HTH
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Post by muttsnuts on Apr 19, 2020 13:16:20 GMT 1
LOL - Tony I like your thinking !! the only problem with that is, each tuner who uses the phrase seems to have a different interpretation of it, some of the best tuners I've spoken to just use the term "ported" and will do "X" or "Y" e.g. peaky power high up (high revving) or more mid range (lots of bottom end grunt) I tend to steer clear of such terms, I just say ported or not ported, if ported, what has the ports been altered to, then you have a chance of working out what pipe design to go with Its like "Banshee coils" - no such thing, there are just 12v 6ohm coils in either "Orange" or "Black" - its all about marketing and hype - on my web site I just sell coils in orange or black, both do exactly the same thing in exactly the same way with exactly the same results on the dyno
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Post by muttsnuts on Apr 19, 2020 13:07:55 GMT 1
To make the pipes suit the tune of the engine, then yes you really need the port mapping/timing etc, so port width, height etc, the stroke will of course be 58mm rather than 54mm, but you also need ther rod length, I'd assume its 115mm rather than 110mm (stock LC), but could be wrong, all these things make a difference I am also assuming John has set the timing to suit the extra stroke etc. If its mid range your after like my 421LC (LC barrels relined to 68mm and 4mm stroked crank) then the pipe design is critical, the first pipe I did worked really well, except it revved way more than I had designed (still not figured out why), so changed the design again and got what I was after, so it wasn't cut n dry for sure
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Post by muttsnuts on Apr 19, 2020 11:32:52 GMT 1
Hi Rob, these are the clutches I stock and supply, excellent kits and are the correct size as per Yamaha, they are the only ones that are, all of the other aftermarket plates are either too thick or too thin
I stock them if you want one
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Post by muttsnuts on Apr 19, 2020 11:31:04 GMT 1
PWK's are flat side carbs (well to all intents and purposes they are), both Mikuni and Keihin will work fine, it will be more of what size, 28mm, 30mm or bigger, depends what you want from the bike, the pipes will also have a factor to play in this. HTH Like for like is a 28mm flatside TM better than the VM28? good question, it comes down to a number of factors, I've yet to do a full back to back test on the same bike. but I have to say the TM tends to give a better bottom end (not by much), but does seem to do that, however, that could also be down to the exhausts fitted, I'll get round to doing a back to back test at some point, then I'll be able to tell you for sure !
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Post by muttsnuts on Apr 19, 2020 11:28:37 GMT 1
yambits air screws are shorter than original Yamaha ones, so they need to be in further than normal, the taper is all wrong as well, that is why you have had to lift the needle, to compensate for all of the extra air that is going in
the fix is go up on the pilot by one, and set your needle correctly, but if your happy with it, then leave well alone
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Post by muttsnuts on Apr 19, 2020 11:21:24 GMT 1
PWK's are flat side carbs (well to all intents and purposes they are), both Mikuni and Keihin will work fine, it will be more of what size, 28mm, 30mm or bigger, depends what you want from the bike, the pipes will also have a factor to play in this.
If going for all out power then the bigger carbs will give you that, but you'll pay the price at lower RPM, smooth riding on the road, but if just punting it down a track/drag strip then just go big as you don't care about bottom end
Also, it depends what tune has been put on the barrels/ports, if you don't know that then you will also struggle with the exhausts for it as you need that to design a set of pipes to suit your needs, otherwise the pipe maker is going to be guessing.
BTW: What the hell does "Stage 2 tune" actually mean - certain tuners band these words about, but nobody has ever been able to put it into technical terms as to what that is, how does it differ from a Stage 1 or 3 and how many stages are there ?
As regards the 2 into 1 manifold, I've done a few on the big bore stuff, there are compromises, its not all gains as some would have you believe, if it was, everybody would be running them and they aren't !
As I say, it all comes down to what you want, I assume you are running a programmable ignition of some sort as well, this also will play its part in getting everything working as you want
HTH
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Post by muttsnuts on Apr 19, 2020 11:11:46 GMT 1
1.2mm to 1.5mm is what I target (that's approx 0.10mm clearance for each plate - steels and fibres) when setting them up, so I'd say that is correct, if the bike has aftermarket levers on I've had it as low as 0.5mm as you can't get the same leverage/pull as they tend to bind/hit the switch gear before being full pulled, so I always use a stock clutch lever to check them, then if the owner complains its binding/dragging, I just swap the lever, tell them to try it and then wait for them to come back and throw the crap levers in the bin !
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RZ250R
Apr 18, 2020 12:21:29 GMT 1
Post by muttsnuts on Apr 18, 2020 12:21:29 GMT 1
lots to do, be aware that if you intend converting that to a 350 then you will need a different ignition set up, as the stator/flywheel and CDI don't work so well on the 350 setup as the timing etc is all wrong, or at least the 2 bikes I've had in that where 250's converted to 350's ran terrible until I swapped it all out
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Post by muttsnuts on Apr 18, 2020 12:09:01 GMT 1
agree with Paul, the last set I checked the clutch side said ARS, the stator side was something else which escapes me at the moment, I'll check my stash when I get 5 mins
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Post by muttsnuts on Apr 18, 2020 12:07:51 GMT 1
check the clutch stack height, so measure the thickness of the fibre plates and the steels, if they are wrong then your clutch stack height is wrong, which can cause drag/heavy clutch, especially if the height is a lot more as that leaves less room for the springs to compress up
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Post by muttsnuts on Apr 18, 2020 12:05:47 GMT 1
no, the RZ250 PV's are smaller, as are the bushes
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Post by muttsnuts on Apr 17, 2020 20:11:57 GMT 1
I've not used them, but I've had a good look at them and they have the teflon coating on the lips of the seals and look good, much better than shambits ones anyway
I am half tempted to try a set (got a good few here - approx 50 pairs !) and see how they fair, all my customers ask for Yamaha seals, but I am going to try a set in one of my test engines I think to see how they go
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Post by muttsnuts on Apr 17, 2020 20:08:47 GMT 1
its just a standard bearing, doesn't need C3 clearances as its running in oil and not heavily loaded, still available from Yamaha etc and also most bearing stockists as its a standard NTN/Koyo bearing
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Post by muttsnuts on Apr 17, 2020 20:06:50 GMT 1
the wool type tends to be quieter, but blows out more easily, if using the mat, don't pack it too tightly as it won't silence it much, it needs room to move and absorb the noise a bit
HTH
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Post by muttsnuts on Apr 17, 2020 9:25:54 GMT 1
sounds like a faulty battery, what make is it, if MF bin it - I've had several MF batteries that look ok, but give out varying volts for no apparent reason - I'd try a new/different battery
I am assuming its been fine with the ignitech etc and has just started ? - as if you use the wrong RPM wire you will get erractic signals as you have a low voltage RPM wire (green/yellow) and a high voltage RPM wire (Purple with connector on) - again assuming you have the ignitech unit I sell as there are differences between units
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Post by muttsnuts on Apr 17, 2020 9:20:30 GMT 1
yes, Silk made a 700cc twin water cooled, which originated from the Scott
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Post by muttsnuts on Apr 15, 2020 9:41:27 GMT 1
yep, use adjustable pipe grips like Rob, always done it that way
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Post by muttsnuts on Apr 14, 2020 19:53:54 GMT 1
which carbs are fitted ? - you have 3 possible options, 4L0-00 unmodified, 4L0-00 modified, 4L0-01 need to know that before you do anything Dave he indicates 4L0-01 in first message so seems to be the later type. haha, old age catching me up, didn't see that buried in the text, no that then, unless they have been restamped, seen that a good few times !
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Post by muttsnuts on Apr 14, 2020 10:17:12 GMT 1
which carbs are fitted ? - you have 3 possible options, 4L0-00 unmodified, 4L0-00 modified, 4L0-01 need to know that before you do anything
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Post by muttsnuts on Apr 13, 2020 18:34:07 GMT 1
yep, fitted loads of these.
Several things to note, firstly read the instructions carefully as the wire colours are not what you might assume, next you have to run your own neutral wire, the new combined CDI/Coil will fit where the old coil was, I supply brackest for this with my kits, along with detailed wiring instructions
Next, double check every allen bolt/screw on the PD as they sometimes aren't as tight as they could be, or remove and put a bit of thread lock on to be sure, make sure you set the air gap between the pickup and flywheel at 0.40mm - some people forget to do this
With respect to locking the flywheel onto the crank, Daves top tip is use a 3/8" 16mm deep socket, place the flywheel in the correct position on the crank shaft, place the deep socket inside the flywheel recess where the nut goes and give it a decent tap with a hammer, this will lock the flywheel in place, then tighten/torque the flywheel nut up as per Yamaha spec - 56ftlbs iirc
HTH
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Post by muttsnuts on Apr 13, 2020 12:02:27 GMT 1
weld the crank pins after rebuild
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Post by muttsnuts on Apr 13, 2020 10:20:55 GMT 1
if that RD500 is a genuine Marlboro then every part that was painted by Dream machine has a serial number/painters ID on it, that includes the tank, so if I was buying it then I'd be asking what that ID is and checking it, if the ID's aren't there, then its not one of the 100 done, I've restored several RD500's, 2 of which where genuine Marlboro, both had the ID's etched into the panels and tank, you wouldn't remove them as they are etched, not a stamp or anything
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Post by muttsnuts on Apr 11, 2020 17:22:11 GMT 1
ally pipe could be badly corroded and weeping (changed a good number of these in the past few years), or dodgy O ring, or water pipe, if not then the "T" piece gasket on the head and lastly of course, the head itself, only places the water can come from, unless you have a cracked/leaking barrel (highly unlikely)
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Post by muttsnuts on Apr 11, 2020 13:02:40 GMT 1
check and replace the idler gear and also the kick starter gear if they are wobbling badly, also check the clutch basket for grooving and wear also the inner clutch hub for the same. Gearbox bearings for play, and also if they are notchy when spun etc, exhaust studs for corrosion and signs of strecthing/over tightening, replace while the barrels are off, its way easier, also barrel studs, check for same, head for flatness, barrels for flatness, deck height of pistons and if bore is 1.50mm or over, then be sure to check the head gasket and piston clearance as they normally touch and require the head gasket trimming.
Clean out all crankcase threads before re-assembly as you can easily snap the 6mm bolts if the holes are full of old sealant etc, use a 6mm tap to clean them all out, its worth the effort, again, run an 8mm die downt he crank case stud threads, or at least wire brush them to be as clean as possible
Clean/dry all sealant surfaces, especially the 2 crank case halves with brake cleaner or neat alcohol and wipe dry with a lint free cloth
if re-using the original pistons etc, fit new rings and gap them, also new circlips and little ends
HTH
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Post by muttsnuts on Apr 11, 2020 12:52:53 GMT 1
stay safe Stu
I think there are a few things going about TBH, for the last 3 or 4 weeks I've had a dull headache on both sides and like a mild earache, every morning I wake up my whole body aches including my joints, and sometimes during the day I just feel a bit lethargic, just thought its one of those things, but then spoke to my brother yesterday and he has the exact same thing and again for the 3 or 4 weeks, which seems very odd to me
Other than that I feel fine
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