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Post by muttsnuts on May 24, 2020 19:59:05 GMT 1
i know it's been asked a few times.... basically bought a S/H unit with no diagrams etc The problem is the ones I have seen on their site dont correspond to each other. Is this one ok to use? for 31k in LC frame with LC loom live.staticflickr.com/65535/49075542791_f0a363ffbb_k.jpgGot it from Oldbritguys thread ah, good to see my install notes being banded about , please note that those notes are specific to the ignitech unit dccdip2_race and loom, if your ignitech is NOT that unit then the wiring is different as the pin outs vary, the race unit has 26 wires, some other units have 18, some 23, some less and some more, so you need to know which unit you have and then download the correct wiring diagram HTH
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Post by muttsnuts on May 22, 2020 10:29:59 GMT 1
I use them all the time for various repairs/hybrid builds etc, you need to practice a little at first to find the correct setting for each size rivert nut and different material thicknesses, but once you have the settings, its a peice of wee wee after that, worth doing a few practices on scrap metal, saves stripping the threads as some do by being "over" enthusiastic lets say !
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Post by muttsnuts on May 20, 2020 10:41:42 GMT 1
not sure I'd be going with their jetting advice - 110 main - err maybe not !
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Post by muttsnuts on May 16, 2020 16:58:23 GMT 1
will be fine, bit more peaky on power, but not stupid, 28mm was the normal mod of the day to get more power out of an LC, works well, port width is approx 3mm more, but that's ok as well
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Post by muttsnuts on May 16, 2020 14:18:10 GMT 1
yep, average costs range from £800 (little needing doing) to £1500 (lots doing), add more if you want it tarting up (e.g. painting etc) - the last few I've done for customers have been between £1000 and £1300 inc labour and all parts, but if you need power valve assemblies then that goes up a chunk, especially if you need the lot, so bushes, seals, PV's etc - budget another £350 to £400 for that lot alone
HTH
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Post by muttsnuts on May 14, 2020 8:24:44 GMT 1
Rob, let me know if you are selling it, or if Alan could borrow it to see if he can make a copy, happy to assist or purchase, just let me know as I use these for the custom clocks I do etc
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Post by muttsnuts on May 13, 2020 20:58:35 GMT 1
I've seen those type, but I've also seen a 4th one, where the centre isn't relieved as much towards the bush, no idea what it is off mind !
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Post by muttsnuts on May 13, 2020 20:56:17 GMT 1
I am after one of those, you got a spare one?
I've asked Alan K if he can 3D print one, if I get him one, he will have a go he said
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Post by muttsnuts on May 13, 2020 20:54:23 GMT 1
I use the 235 ohms reading, I've never seen one at 271 ohms TBH, if they read 225 or lower I tend to find they are faulty
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Post by muttsnuts on May 13, 2020 20:10:02 GMT 1
YSS are £220, Nitron are £429 give or take
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Post by muttsnuts on May 12, 2020 14:48:01 GMT 1
thought they where the same caliper, but could be wrong, have you checked the part numbers for each model ?
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Post by muttsnuts on May 12, 2020 9:55:49 GMT 1
YSS shock for YPVS - range 285mm to 295mm YSS shock for LC - range 310mm to 320mm, but they also do an alternative which is 315mm to 325mm (but special order that one)
HTH
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Post by muttsnuts on May 8, 2020 17:07:16 GMT 1
took my 25% out of my pension in January, but left the rest untouched and will be leaving it for another 5 years, I also had a bond mature at the end of February (at a high peak on the FTSE 100), so had a good payout, I've since re-invested my initial lump sum into another 5 year bond (as the prices hit bottom), so that combination of luck and planning means I've only dropped 2% on my total pension. But my main income is from my rental properties and fixing bikes etc, so I am not too worried, although I do keep an eye on the market
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Post by muttsnuts on May 8, 2020 17:00:45 GMT 1
Go into my Lc build the models are in that build can’t remember of the top of my head, several of us have used them think it may have been Dave (Trubrit) or Dave (Muttsnutts) who did it first. You need to fabricate a small bracket to mount them in the clock Binnacle but it’s fairly easy. yep, both Dave and I did it, I've just finished another new style set I've done for a job, I'll have to take some photo's etc and post up, a bit different to the last set I did, these have a temp gauge built in which is better
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Post by muttsnuts on May 8, 2020 10:33:16 GMT 1
yep, that's extreme to say the least !
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Post by muttsnuts on May 6, 2020 10:34:20 GMT 1
needs 12v supply to it, red and dark blue wire normally
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Post by muttsnuts on May 5, 2020 21:18:12 GMT 1
just a USB to RS232 cable is all you need, then download the relevant software from the ignitech site for your box
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Post by muttsnuts on May 4, 2020 19:25:21 GMT 1
which air cooled bottom end you wanting to use, my turbo 2 stroke is using a 400E bottom end with modified 350LC barrels on, electric water pump, worked really well even before I fitted the 2 turbo's the project is on here somewhere, but it was neck end of 5+years ago now ! hereyago - the project --> rdlccrazy.proboards.com/thread/24591/turbod-2-stroke-buildsome photo's missing etc, but still lots on there, page 2 onwards shows the engine and stuff
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Post by muttsnuts on May 2, 2020 10:21:40 GMT 1
Did you you use any rubber grease? we still taking about sight glasses ........ !! oops sorry, couldn't resist !!
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Post by muttsnuts on May 1, 2020 21:18:59 GMT 1
1.5mm
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Post by muttsnuts on Apr 30, 2020 10:14:01 GMT 1
which type of lock up clutch, there are several available and some can be used with a standard cover afrer a little modification to the cover
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Post by muttsnuts on Apr 27, 2020 20:42:58 GMT 1
if the wheel is in good fettle, e.g. using heat etc on it will ruin the paint, then the way I do it is to remove the rubber part, then using a die grinder (dremel) I carefully put a cut 180 degrees apart in the outer casing until it cuts through the steel casing, then they just pop out with little effort
HTH
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Post by muttsnuts on Apr 26, 2020 19:30:56 GMT 1
LOL - its good job your stood up in the side car in the last picture Johnny otherwise we wouldn't be able to see you !! - hope you are keeping well
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Post by muttsnuts on Apr 26, 2020 19:25:36 GMT 1
yeah, I've only got 2 left and unless Nigel doesn't want them, then I am out of them
the needle you need is a Y246, I can probably get some more if required, these are the bast available replacements that match as closely as possible the 5J6 needle
If your running the 1A3 carbs, why not run with the 5L1 needle and the 184-02 (I think) needle jet, then jet accordingly to get the fuelling right, they will work fine on the 400F, they don't have to have the same internals as the for the 400E/F to work, they just need fuelling correctly
HTH
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Post by muttsnuts on Apr 26, 2020 11:12:13 GMT 1
yes they will, but will need rejetting to suit, in fact, it will make it run better if the old 350 A/C is anything to go by as that works better with later carbs on it
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Post by muttsnuts on Apr 26, 2020 10:49:14 GMT 1
JB weld the groove up, as I assume you mean it has a nice neat groove in the casing where the pin is, if so, just JB weld it up and carefully sand it back, then either use a normal bearing, or use an O ring one, which I tend to do when this happens as they are kinder to the casings and don't slip unless your crank seizes
You could have it welded up, but you risk distortion in that area and given the casings are line bored, that's not an easy thing to fix if they do - believe me I've tried, made allsorts of cutters/jigs etc, and still perfecting it, one day I might actually solve it without having to buy a £10k maching to do it !
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Post by muttsnuts on Apr 25, 2020 18:30:42 GMT 1
in the ignitech we can fine tune the actual "offset" for the spark angle/pickup for each pickup, so even if its out by a couple of degrees, we can adjust it accordingly to find the best setting, but since this isn't a race bike, so long as its all running smoothly, I doubt Mark will be looking to squeeze every last ounce out of the engine !
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Post by muttsnuts on Apr 24, 2020 20:50:35 GMT 1
never ever smoked in my life, hate the things, both my parents smoked up until 20 yrs ago, then they both stopped overnight, my mum because she had cancer and just stopped, so my dad did the same, cold turkey, never bothered them. Thankfully I've never been interested My daughter has asthma and so she has one of the those blow meters (Peak Flow Meter) and we often test each other, my son is 18 and can blow around 450 (bit low for his age), my daughter can blow about the same which is good for her, my wife can only manage 380 (which is bad and she has never smoked), I can do 675 to 680 consistently, which according to the charts means I have peak performance for a 35yr old bloke - it drives my kids nuts that I out do them on it, my son can't figure it out why my lungs are so much better than his ! - I put it down to the 2 stroke smoke
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RS500
Apr 24, 2020 20:37:27 GMT 1
500RG likes this
Post by muttsnuts on Apr 24, 2020 20:37:27 GMT 1
lovely wheels, I have the exact same for my new RS project as well, extremely light
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Post by muttsnuts on Apr 24, 2020 10:00:47 GMT 1
The springs in the EBC kit are 15% heavier, so it makes the lever "slightly" heavier to pull, but not like the TZ or whatever those springs everybody seems to fit, which are way too heavy if you ask me. I've put these new clutch kits in 70bhp engines and they haven't let go, so I am pretty happy with them
One of the things you have to check when swapping the springs is that you aren't getting coil bound, if the spring diameter is bigger than stock and the clearance between the spring is diminished when compressed, then you haven't a chance of getting a nice lever as your trying to compress the springs coils against each other, which won't happen, each coil must have at least some clearance between them to allow compression
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