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Post by muttsnuts on Aug 17, 2020 17:38:33 GMT 1
suppose from my point of view I am using them alot, so tend to buy what will provide years of service, I have allsorts of sizes including NPT which is used alot for water pipe threads (temp senders etc), especially if American made
I've tried cheap sets and to be fair they have lasted a year or two, but do have an habit of breaking, especially is used in the lathe, but then I do use a lot of lathe taps and they need to be good quality, hence why I avoid carbon steel, they don't hack it
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Post by muttsnuts on Aug 17, 2020 9:19:23 GMT 1
I only buy and use Presto taps and dies, I buy the box set (3 taps) per size, they are made from HSS, avoid "carbon steel" they will snap and snag. Presto aren't the cheapest, but are a good quality item and will last for years, when it comes to taps and dies, you tend to get what you pay for, buy cheap, they will be cheap and not very good
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Post by muttsnuts on Aug 17, 2020 9:13:59 GMT 1
yes if need be, more tricky though Excellent just to match these two barrels mutts mate or wot would your suggestion be ie leave as is, ,, drop me a pm with your number mate if possible and we can have the crack would be appreciated as I've loads for you to do mate when you've time as I know your constantly busy should be possible, would need both barrels to match them up, plus ideally an O ring, but if you haven't got one then I can work out what size has been used, but it can be a pain to do
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Post by muttsnuts on Aug 17, 2020 9:12:47 GMT 1
This was made by the old Metmachex company. The outer ring requires a CNC machine and are hard to do. Using one ring is easier and using a bit of sealant is all that is required to seal the water waysas the head is flat to the barrels anyway, the O ring is squeezed flat between the head and barrels, it doesn't sit flush. Also, the metmachex ones the O ring groove is too close to the stud holes and I've had 3 heads in where the O ring has been cut because the O ring groove intrudes into the stud hole, I use a different size O ring on the YPVS head so that there is no chance of that happening
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Post by muttsnuts on Aug 16, 2020 11:14:41 GMT 1
But can you do barrels Mr Nutts, ?? yes if need be, more tricky though
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Post by muttsnuts on Aug 15, 2020 21:13:15 GMT 1
currently got jigs to do LC and YPVS heads, will get round to making more jigs for other heads like TZR's, TDR's etc, but need time and an head to make the jig against
Can do skimming, O ring, profile/doom cutting etc, so each job as one offs or do the whole lot on a head
Can also take 250 heads out to 350, generally make the squish 65.5mm diameter, but can go upto 66.50mm if required for large over bored engines
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Post by muttsnuts on Aug 15, 2020 21:11:18 GMT 1
not got a YPVS one to photo, but here's an LC one
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Post by muttsnuts on Aug 15, 2020 20:22:20 GMT 1
yep, I does
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Post by muttsnuts on Aug 15, 2020 20:19:02 GMT 1
I feed my YPVSs through a Brazilian tap. One of the few improvements they made to the design. Jon[/quote] Jon, maybe they "shaved" some bits off.......
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Post by muttsnuts on Aug 14, 2020 20:56:41 GMT 1
Hi Matt, I've got a bag of carrots and some mouldy sprouts I'll swap for the bike, I'll take a chance its ok ! If you think of price I'll ask about, got a few customers looking for stuff
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Post by muttsnuts on Aug 9, 2020 19:34:38 GMT 1
good carb, don't fit the OEM airbox rubbers though, can't remember the OD measurement and not got any on the shelf to measure them unfortunately but pretty sure they don't fit
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Post by muttsnuts on Aug 9, 2020 18:38:25 GMT 1
its the anti-seize mechanism you fitted, some of them are the wrong thickness, the crap ones measure 3.95mm to 4.00mm and should be 3.25mm, the pancake bearings are correct, its the washers that are too thick on all of the ones I've seen, the correct thickness is 0.65mm for the washers, if they are wrong then they hold the cover off by 0.5mm (at least) which is plenty for the clutch to slip.
The full thickness of the pancake bearing, washers and adjuster body should be 5.25mm (max), and the crap ones all come in between 5.75mm and 6.00mm
measure yours, I bet the washers are around 1.00mm+ thick each
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Post by muttsnuts on Aug 4, 2020 15:52:15 GMT 1
put them in the manifold, its a boat laod easier, saves undoing the oil pipes when rejetting if the carbs are coming off (generally required) and works just as well as the oil is pumped through the nozzle/injector which then drops into the air stream and gets atomised as normal while being drawn into the crank cases and through the transfer ports, default Yamaha is to pump the oil up onto the floor of the carb, not the most ideal place to deliver it
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Post by muttsnuts on Aug 4, 2020 15:48:04 GMT 1
you need different pistons for a start, once you have those then you can measure your port timing and adjust to suit your requirements, flooring of the ports is generally required, you also need to factor in your base gasket thickness, ideally do a dry build with the gaskets you are going to use so that your measurements are correct
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Post by muttsnuts on Jul 23, 2020 21:58:48 GMT 1
for somebody wanting to build a hybrid then its going to be worth around £2k due to it having the engine, carbs, electonics, log book etc, its a good starting point, ironically if somebody wanted it to restore it, then its actually worth less IMHO as its the least desirable/collectable and will still cost a fortune to do. I'd say a sensible fair price is £2k, but on ebay its anybodies guess as some people pay silly amounts for stuff at times
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Post by muttsnuts on Jul 17, 2020 8:57:07 GMT 1
I've met this guy, we was trying to sell a hybrid project a couple of years back, it was shite, needed everything doing, he wanted £3k for it, I said it was £2k tops, he wasn't interested when I offered that in cash, but a couple of months later he contacted me to ask if I still wanted it at £2k, I said no I'd found another project (which I had), he eventually put it back on ebay and it sold for around £2k - not sure if somebody on here bought it thinking about it ! I saw this bike at the same time sat in the corner, I asked what he was doing with it, he said he was selling the hybrid to fund the resto of the LC, clearly didn't happen. He's dreaming if he thinks he'll get that amount for it, but I thought he was a dreamer when I met him, not sure if he is on here TBH
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Post by muttsnuts on Jul 16, 2020 8:39:24 GMT 1
Nice work Dave Now how can we make it fit with a starter ring gear for my TR 🤣 Steve watch this space !!
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Post by muttsnuts on Jul 15, 2020 21:45:34 GMT 1
One of the projects I've been working on finally got its testing day today, the aim was to have a very small/light low inertia flywheel but still have the ability to charge a battery as I wanted a race type solution that would still allow the use of a programmable ignition like the ignitech. After alot of researching, buying stuff, testing and then binning said stuff, I decided I'd have a go at modifying an existing system to make it work as I wanted as these systems are primarily targetted at the big bore engines I do to help reduce load on the cranks. I'd seen a similar system to what I wanted done by Ritchie at RSK on his RD500 hybrid and after having a chat with him I set about making my own (he had a company make his) So after a far bit of head scratching, lathe and milling machine work, I finally had a prototype, initial tests where promising but the charging system just wasn't man enough, so back to the drawing board. The next prototype is what I've tested today, it works exactly as I wanted and produces approx 75watts of charging capacity and upto 13.7v, the testing today has proved very positive with it just about keeping pace with the ignitech power usage on tickover, at 3000 rpm it maintains the battery voltage and at 4000 rpm it charges the battery more than is being used - result The flywheel weighs in at approx 360 grams (a stock one weighs in at approx 1560 grams), the unit is very compact and is fully compatible with the ignitech and dead easy to wire in Once I've done some more testing and got some miles on the test system if it all stays together and works, then I'll start making them to order and selling them as they will be great for race/track bikes that want a programmable ignition with a low inertia flywheel and for road bikes that are running mainly LED equipment etc, it may even be ok for a normal road bike with standard electrical gear, but I've yet to test that Below is a picture of the unit fitted, it starts off as a HPI system, which is then modified to suit my needs
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Post by muttsnuts on Jul 14, 2020 17:53:41 GMT 1
It might look shite, it might handle shite, it might not go very well, but a 4 cylinder 2 stroke is the most wonderful sound ever. Sometimes I fire mine up just to listen to them :-) oh I don't disagree with the sound track, just wonderful, its like a 2 into 1 exhaust on a 2 stroke (something else I am working on), not necessarily practical, but the sound is something else and on a triple its just ace !
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Post by muttsnuts on Jul 14, 2020 16:29:39 GMT 1
yes, that is mild and will be fine, sure I responded to your PM about it, or was it an email, or text, anyway, yes that is fine for a starter map
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Post by muttsnuts on Jul 14, 2020 16:07:19 GMT 1
having worked on both bikes many times, in allsorts of states of tune and condition, personally if I had to choose one it woukd be the RG over the RD, but purely because it is easier (in general) to maintain IMHO, but if I was going to spend £15k or my hard earned, I'd have one of my hybrids any day over either bike, my current new build (if I ever get time to get back to it), will by twice the bike, handle better, have more horses, look better and far more unique, but then, that's what i prefer - each to their own I do know of a few owners who have said the same ....... it was the 2 most happy days they had, the day they bought the 500 and the day they sold it ! - having worked on so many, and seen first hand the pain they can inflict on your wallet, I fully understand !
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Post by muttsnuts on Jul 4, 2020 7:46:47 GMT 1
And if your studs are buggered I'm sure mutts just got a set sorted for a mate And I'm talking totally shagged Steve Steve, you are right, his where more than a tad knackered, done a few for people on here now, but your mates where the worst to date as I think 3 out of the 4 needed doing
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Post by muttsnuts on Jul 2, 2020 16:35:51 GMT 1
Right so I take it I need to find Tec on the piston then go back 1.8mm then get the timing mark on the stator to line up with the flywheel mark Steve correct, TDC, turn flywheel clockwise for 1.8mm to 2.00mm, then align the mark on the flywheel to the stator by moving the stator plate to align, lock the 3 bolts up, turn engine over 360 degrees, check marks still align, job done
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Post by muttsnuts on Jun 25, 2020 16:58:24 GMT 1
before squeezing larger carbs onto stock rubbers, measure the inside lip of the rubbers, the part that the carb spigot bumps up against, that will tell you how big a carb you can fit, anything bigger will be a waste of time as it will effectively be restricting the flow and cause turbulence
As Jessy says, you can buy the larger rubbers, not cheap if memory serves me right though
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Post by muttsnuts on Jun 25, 2020 16:54:14 GMT 1
that is a good job, its very tricky doing that repair, not to be taken on lightly, need the right bit of kit to machine that properly
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Post by muttsnuts on Jun 25, 2020 16:49:21 GMT 1
what size is the rear as I had one, was too big for the KR1, but 3 stud fitting and no offest (flat disc), think it was either 230mm or 240mm diameter
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Post by muttsnuts on Jun 25, 2020 12:42:55 GMT 1
They make billet cases for the banshees up to 4 cylinders. Displacements well over a liter. As everything is either bespoke, billet and/or involves a great deal of labor those motors can get very expensive. And then you will need a frame that can handle and use that power. At some point it is really no longer an RZ or LC in anything but design. I love them, but they'll cost as much or more than a modern bike that would likely leave them on a track, get better mileage and be nearly maintenance free. but nowhere near as much fun !
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Post by muttsnuts on Jun 25, 2020 12:39:35 GMT 1
yes, the Tourmax discs are good, I had aset for the KR1S here, juast sewnt them back today as they don't fit the KR1 - despite beinfg assured they would, needless to say I've had a hell of a job finding the correct discs to fit a KR1 - interestingly, they cost a sh*t load more than the KR1S discs !
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Post by muttsnuts on Jun 21, 2020 20:08:55 GMT 1
I want a set of Dave's for the 400, but he would need the bike. So it looks like a set of Allspeeds for me, but not chromed - that's too spendy for 'speeds. Probably buy the bare metal and get Jamie to Cerakote them in silky black. Dusty I have access to a 400 if need be, the snag will be the reaset fitting I suspect, f that's different we have no way of knowing where to put the hanger or if the exhaust routing needs to be changed to avoid the rearsets etc
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Post by muttsnuts on Jun 21, 2020 20:07:17 GMT 1
we now do S/S mid range pipes for the LC, they are £640 - I'll be taking some photo's of them soon, made a set for a certain customer (they are on here) and since then we've made another 4 sets, one set is going to Bahrain of all places !
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