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Post by muttsnuts on Apr 21, 2024 14:15:08 GMT 1
the problem isn't so much fitting a filter to the petrol line, its mostly people fit the wrong size and starve the carbs of fuel, I'd say 80% to 90% of the bikes I've had in with filters fitted, when I've checked them have had smaller holes than the tap/pipe
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Post by muttsnuts on Apr 19, 2024 20:29:07 GMT 1
Back in the day Stan would machine them and fit a sleeve, had to get it done Certainly not a lot of meat to get space for a sleeve Steve yeah, thats why I decided doing what I am doing is better, more faffing, but a better repair and certainly stronger for the barrel
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Post by muttsnuts on Apr 19, 2024 20:22:33 GMT 1
Sleeving the PV tunnels (which if I understand correctly is effectively what you will do) is a great idea Dave, I've often looked at them and thought it must be quite possible to machine them and insert an interference fit piece of aluminium tube to eliminate the wear and provide a new surface for the bushes/O rings to sit in. I look forward to seeing the updated website with all your new stuff added. Hi Roger, no I don't sleeve them, that's what other people have done in the past but it makes the barrels really weak and I've seen a good few crack the exhaust port casting off. What I do is just machine enough out of the bush housing so that it cleans up, then make an oversize bush housing to fit the new size, then fit the standard size inner phospur bronze bush in side it
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Post by muttsnuts on Apr 18, 2024 20:18:11 GMT 1
bearing puller or a hydraulic press with the correct bearing splitter clamps
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Post by muttsnuts on Apr 18, 2024 20:17:28 GMT 1
nope, new one on me I never sign or mark any of the barrels I port, I think its rude to make peoples barrels with your insignia...... but that's just my opinion of course !
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Post by muttsnuts on Apr 18, 2024 20:15:50 GMT 1
Thanks Roger, I've just finished making a jig so I can now machine the PV barrels so that "oversize" bush housings can be fitted (which I make) and then fit stock size bushes in them, they work a treat
I've got a good few updates to do on the website, this being one of them, but `I'll pop a message on here in due course of all of the new services I offer and prices..... can't move in my workshop for machines and stuff now though !
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Post by muttsnuts on Apr 18, 2024 20:12:45 GMT 1
Mick has just asked me if I have another Indian tank I Could sell him. Only funny if you have seen the other threads but I thought I'd try lighten the mood! Still gutted my bid didn't win the last one! I think Keith still has the other sock from the pair of balaclava's he had (the ones with no holes in), but I think it might be his "special" sock.........
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Post by muttsnuts on Apr 15, 2024 19:16:36 GMT 1
biggest thing missing normally is the bevel washer under the big "C" clip holding the kick starter in place, that certainly doesn't help
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Post by muttsnuts on Apr 13, 2024 14:22:58 GMT 1
Should add that ive had a bit of a nightmare with parcels the past month... This one was just a black hole of nothing until I used the whatsapp number and now its on its way... proof is in the opening when it arrives of course. Then there was the ebay one that made it half way across Aus but probably got its label damaged as about 5miles from my house they decided to send it back cos the address was 'invalid'... WTAF?! Ive lived here 15 years and have received over 1000 parcels and mail items so I know the addy is fine... Messaged and phoned within 2 hours of them doing a return 'track' and yet customer service will do nothing to locate it, so its going back to the sender. Ive worked Mail Centers, its findable... but they dont want to bother, its much more important to clear the ticket i raised than save money and keep the customer happy. And then there is the FedEx parcel from CMS that made constant journeys between France and Belgium. Daily... I think it was stuck in the container and that was what was tracked doing the journeys, but it went on for a while... finally that parcel is now been cleared by customs here. Dare I order anything else?! and that my friends is exactly why I don't ship anything abroad anymore !
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Post by muttsnuts on Apr 11, 2024 9:07:21 GMT 1
my torque wrenches range from being 20yr old to my first one as an apprentice, which means its over 43yrs old and they still good and within spec
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Post by muttsnuts on Apr 10, 2024 21:18:29 GMT 1
I use them for calibrating my mechanical torque wrenches, useful to have, but don't use them as torque wrenches themselves as such
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Post by muttsnuts on Apr 10, 2024 19:22:53 GMT 1
come on, is it done yet ?
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Post by muttsnuts on Apr 8, 2024 15:48:59 GMT 1
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Post by muttsnuts on Apr 7, 2024 21:18:47 GMT 1
few more jobs to do on it, but it is running 70+bhp now
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Post by muttsnuts on Apr 7, 2024 10:29:54 GMT 1
it is more common on the 250's than the 350's for some reason, but have seen a good number of 350's like that
Can be fixed by a resleeve, or convert to a 370 as Rob has said, all of which I'll be doing in the next few months, got the YPVS barrels sorted for resleeve, now I am working on the 370 conversions, then onto 350 resleeve then the 250's last
Its sorting the liner design out which takes the time, once that's sorted and the pattern is made, its a fairly straight forward process, although cutting the ports is time consuming
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Post by muttsnuts on Apr 7, 2024 10:18:54 GMT 1
ok, much more than I thought then - cheers lads
I'll give it a good clean and put it on here in case anybody needs one
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Post by muttsnuts on Apr 6, 2024 20:53:10 GMT 1
whats the going rate for an F2 tank that doesn't leak and in good condition, not perfect, but not bad - just ball park please, got one to sell but no idea on value
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Post by muttsnuts on Apr 6, 2024 20:40:25 GMT 1
that's fooked.....
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Post by muttsnuts on Apr 6, 2024 17:40:12 GMT 1
Impressive 👌 Looking good Dave. When’s the unveiling 🤔 you know the bike already, although its had a fair amount of work done to it and changes, more on it next week too all being well
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Post by muttsnuts on Apr 6, 2024 8:55:40 GMT 1
yeah, when I got the barrels off somebody had been playing, which is one of the reasons it took a while to port them as I was trying to work around what had been done
had an LC engine do 68bhp, but it was a race engine in fairness, not really what I am about when it comes to tuning, prefer to make engines perform but with longegivity as that is what my customers want, this one is super safe at the moment
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Post by muttsnuts on Apr 5, 2024 22:59:14 GMT 1
150psi is fine so long as you use super unleaded, pushing your luck a little with normal unleaded at 150psi, 135psi you'll be fine with either fuel, once you start venturing beyond the 150/155psi you run the risk of detonation unless you start getting clever with your squish band and ignition timing etc
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Post by muttsnuts on Apr 5, 2024 21:56:59 GMT 1
YPVS think some people thought that was a 350LC engine, best I've done one of them is 68bhp at the moment, need to try and get back on getting one over 70bhp - the thing is I am trying to keep them reliable, the YPVS is only using 66% of ring to bore, which is low compared to the normal 68% to 70%
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Post by muttsnuts on Apr 5, 2024 20:32:33 GMT 1
What is the basic spec of the engine used for testing? What exhausts, carbs etc? engine is a 350 on 0.75mm O/S Exhaust are my F2 performance pipes Stock VM26 31k-00 carbs (different internals though) VF4 reeds Ignitech Ported barrels Skimmed head - but running head gasket Stock ignition coil Stock stator and flywheel Running oil pump Next traunch of mods will include; Dynacoil ignition coils Modified cyl head to my spec Fitting 28mm PWK's and billet manifolds (no crossover pipe) Power dynamo kit Possibly 32mm or 34mm carbs depending upon time, money and how its all looking upto this point I am also thinking of revisiting my F2 pipe design as its been 7+yrs since I did them and I've completely changed my porting, so I could be losing some BHP there, but not modelled it yet to know for sure
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Post by muttsnuts on Apr 5, 2024 18:48:33 GMT 1
What is more impressive to me is the area under the curve. Sure it’s easy to get a higher top BHP figure at the expense of bottom end, but not in this case. A gain all through the Rev range and getting rid of the annoying 5500 flat spot. Now it’s easy to rig dyno graphs by using a poor setup to start with, but if the dyno is accurate it was a healthily 54 BHP to start with for a 350. Jon my dyno is very accurate.........no fudging of figures, it does what it does, anyone who's been to my dyno for setup will tell you its all correct and above board, plus its calibrated once a month and is only 18 months old, so its not worn out or knackered or a home made jobbie !
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Post by muttsnuts on Apr 5, 2024 16:50:54 GMT 1
thanks guys, I've kept a log of each change I made along with graphs etc, once I get chance I'll do a write up on each change and what gains/improvements each part did
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Post by muttsnuts on Apr 5, 2024 15:57:28 GMT 1
Been doing some tweaks on one of my bikes recently, being doing a bit at a time as I get chance etc, pretty pleased with the improvements, although one part did involve 10hrs of porting work ! Got more stuff to do/try etc, but so far its pretty good for a 350cc YPVS motor
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Post by muttsnuts on Apr 2, 2024 17:10:24 GMT 1
the kill circuit is very simple.
The black/white wire from the kill switch is spliced and goes off to the ignition switch (black/white wire) and then also to the CDI connector block, again the black/white wire
You should have continuity across the 3 black/white wires
When the kill switch is set to "kill" then you should have continuity across the kill switch to ground, when the igntion switch is off then you should have continuity across the black/white wire and ground
HTH
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Post by muttsnuts on Apr 1, 2024 21:02:18 GMT 1
run a minimum of 6mm SWA (Steel Wired Armed), this will handle 32amps, your compressor will pull anything upto 15amps on its own if its a 3hp one, you want it on its own 32A RCD in the consumer unit (Fuse box), in the garage you then want to have a small 4 way Consumer unit, broken down into 1 x Light circuit (5A if using LEDs), 1 x Socket circuit (15A), 1 x machines (lathes etc) 15A), 1 x Compressor (20A) then every circuit is protected and should break before throwing the RCD in the consumer unit in the house, that should only throw if you have a major overload or an earth/neutral leakage issue
that's what I'd do anyway.........
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Post by muttsnuts on Apr 1, 2024 11:13:26 GMT 1
welcome to the forum, as Jon says, an after market one is the cheapest option, genuine ones are still available, but very pricey
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Post by muttsnuts on Apr 1, 2024 11:10:22 GMT 1
F1 and 31K carbs use a different needle valve kit than the F2 carbs, which is what all the carb kits provide I am afraid, that's your problem when I overhaul F1 and 31K carbs for custoners I customise 2 valve kits to make one that works with them, its a faff, but does the trick and also means your float heights will be correct when the tab is pretty much on the flat and not bent So if I make I make the tab flat it will work? no, you need the correct needle valve kits for that to be correct, the F2 kits aren't correct
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