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Post by loctite on Apr 13, 2020 17:39:49 GMT 1
Hi chaps I’ve got two dud stators and wondering which direction I should go do I get rewound or get norbo’s power dynamo ignition
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Post by alankelly on Apr 13, 2020 17:54:58 GMT 1
Hi I went the Powerdynamo route on the yellow bike project as it replaced also the CDI, coil and regulator rectifier of unknown condition   Interestingly the PW rotor weighs a lot less than the original too   Stay safe Best wishes Al |
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Post by loctite on Apr 13, 2020 18:05:19 GMT 1
Thank you Alen was it easy to set up or did you have your bike on the dyno
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Post by alankelly on Apr 13, 2020 18:12:39 GMT 1
No just set it up 2mm before TDC The only thing you really need is a tool to hold the rotor as it’s not keyed so you lock it onto the crankshaft in the correct position so the pickup / rotor is positioned at this 2mm before TDC so I needed to made this special peg spanner to hold the rotor as I found during tightening that rotor would rotate on the shaft slightly preventing me from achieving the correct timing Once correctly tightened it does lock on the shaft and I have never heard of one moving on it’s locking taper center once correctly tightened    I know Dave (Muttnuts) has fitted a few so maybe he will be along to add some more professional advise Best wishes Al |
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Post by muttsnuts on Apr 13, 2020 18:34:07 GMT 1
yep, fitted loads of these.
Several things to note, firstly read the instructions carefully as the wire colours are not what you might assume, next you have to run your own neutral wire, the new combined CDI/Coil will fit where the old coil was, I supply brackest for this with my kits, along with detailed wiring instructions
Next, double check every allen bolt/screw on the PD as they sometimes aren't as tight as they could be, or remove and put a bit of thread lock on to be sure, make sure you set the air gap between the pickup and flywheel at 0.40mm - some people forget to do this
With respect to locking the flywheel onto the crank, Daves top tip is use a 3/8" 16mm deep socket, place the flywheel in the correct position on the crank shaft, place the deep socket inside the flywheel recess where the nut goes and give it a decent tap with a hammer, this will lock the flywheel in place, then tighten/torque the flywheel nut up as per Yamaha spec - 56ftlbs iirc
HTH
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Post by 4l04ever on Apr 14, 2020 0:13:35 GMT 1
What are the faults with the original stators?
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Post by peter007 on Apr 14, 2020 3:27:14 GMT 1
yep, fitted loads of these. Several things to note, firstly read the instructions carefully as the wire colours are not what you might assume, next you have to run your own neutral wire, the new combined CDI/Coil will fit where the old coil was, I supply brackest for this with my kits, along with detailed wiring instructions Next, double check every allen bolt/screw on the PD as they sometimes aren't as tight as they could be, or remove and put a bit of thread lock on to be sure, make sure you set the air gap between the pickup and flywheel at 0.40mm - some people forget to do this With respect to locking the flywheel onto the crank, Daves top tip is use a 3/8" 16mm deep socket, place the flywheel in the correct position on the crank shaft, place the deep socket inside the flywheel recess where the nut goes and give it a decent tap with a hammer, this will lock the flywheel in place, then tighten/torque the flywheel nut up as per Yamaha spec - 56ftlbs iirc HTH Hi dave what would it cost to have one fitted ? And then also cost of dyno set up mate, pm me the costs if you prefer cheers Pete |
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Post by earthman on Apr 14, 2020 7:39:30 GMT 1
Interesting kit this, certainly something to do during this lock down period,...why do you have to run another wire I'm wondering??
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Post by oldelsieboy on Apr 14, 2020 7:47:23 GMT 1
Interesting kit this, certainly something to do during this lock down period,...why do you have to run another wire I'm wondering?? Because the neutral switch wire is part of the OEM stator assembly & there is not one fitted to the Power Dynamo system. OEB |
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Post by copper99 on Apr 14, 2020 19:45:43 GMT 1
Dave supplied, fitted and installed mine 18months or so, he also spun it up on the dyno to check all was well and tweak it in, worth the extra ££ in my opinion. IIRC my bike went in with 38BHP and left with 46...
If you wish, as I did, you can then sell off the standard CDI/coil, stator, flywheel etc and get back most of the cost of the kit.
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Post by zig on Apr 15, 2020 16:19:30 GMT 1
No just set it up 2mm before TDC The only thing you really need is a tool to hold the rotor as it’s not keyed so you lock it onto the crankshaft in the correct position so the pickup / rotor is positioned at this 2mm before TDC so I needed to made this special peg spanner to hold the rotor as I found during tightening that rotor would rotate on the shaft slightly preventing me from achieving the correct timing Once correctly tightened it does lock on the shaft and I have never heard of one moving on it’s locking taper center once correctly tightened I know Dave (Muttnuts) has fitted a few so maybe he will be along to add some more professional advise Best wishes Al So this is a direct replacement 'charging' system for the LC but does not have the 'woodruff key' channel to lock to the shaft ?? is it still not possible for the magneto to slightly move over time?? ZiG |
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Post by alankelly on Apr 15, 2020 16:28:11 GMT 1
Hi Zig
No it does not have a key way but is relying on the locking taper
I looked into this possible issue but nobody has reported any slipping issues and I think it is due to the much lower weight of the rotor as by nature it is much easier to spin up a lighter rotor without it slipping on the taper than the original rotor if that makes sense
Catch up soon best wishes Al
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Post by dougw on Apr 16, 2020 9:23:17 GMT 1
If you lap a flywheel onto the tapered shaft well with grinding past it is amazing how tight the things lock on to the shaft with even hand pressure.
Many years ago put a motoplat on an lc , not using a woodruff key.
Lapped the motoplat rotor on with grinding paste as per Terry Shepherd (RIP) instructions , cleaned it all off thoroughly , gave it a tap with hand has a trial fit.
Had to use a puller to get it off !
If you lap it on and use Dave (Muttnuts) socket tip the fecker should never move !
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Post by zig on Apr 16, 2020 11:02:12 GMT 1
Hi Zig No it does not have a key way but is relying on the locking taper I looked into this possible issue but nobody has reported any slipping issues and I think it is due to the much lower weight of the rotor as by nature it is much easier to spin up a lighter rotor without it slipping on the taper than the original rotor if that makes sense Catch up soon best wishes Al that's good to know thanks for that...again the weight difference between the two it is bound to be better on the crank in general ZiG |
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Post by alankelly on Apr 16, 2020 15:50:48 GMT 1
Hi Zig
Yes with almost 2kg missing I think the engine will “spin up” slightly quicker and generally there will be less weight just hanging on the end of the crank which should be a good thing
Best wishes Al
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