tlmark
Drag-strip hero
Posts: 203
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Post by tlmark on Apr 22, 2020 11:12:00 GMT 1
As I'm not working today i thought i'd fit some new reeds to the LC
I bought them when I was rebuilding it last year but they didn't turn up until after I had assembled it
so I left my stock steel reeds in
now as I fitted the first ones they looked like this.
they not tight to the blocks, that can't be right can it?
I got them from Norbo's shop as hitech reeds.
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Post by stusco on Apr 22, 2020 11:19:09 GMT 1
The engine sucks them open then presses them closed im not sure if that small gap will affect performance but im sure someone will correct me soon enough .
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Post by tony2stroke on Apr 22, 2020 11:50:42 GMT 1
Nothing wrong with the reeds, but the reed stop is bent causing the front to lift, that will cause low rev running issues, if you look closely at the rear of the stop you can see it is not sitting level, you could try bending it back, but unless you can get the correct angle it will cause trouble, put a shout out for some stops on here, I am sure someone will have some spare.
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Post by steve h on Apr 22, 2020 13:00:54 GMT 1
It was recommended to bend Harpowa reeds using hot water so that they had a 1mm bow in the middle (1mm off the face of the reed block between the fixings and the tips.) this was done on a regular basis until they started to split, as stusco says, pressure seals and opens them.
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Post by steven on Apr 22, 2020 13:40:17 GMT 1
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Post by muttsnuts on Apr 22, 2020 13:45:56 GMT 1
try turning the reeds round 180 degrees, that normally sorts it, sometimes they have a little bow in them, so only seat one way
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Post by tony2stroke on Apr 22, 2020 14:00:42 GMT 1
I had exactly this problem on my little RD200, it would be fluffy down low is the only way to explain it, there is not enough pressure when low revs to shut them tight, and fuel mix was coming out the back, it also got worse as it warmed up, I had bent the stopper to allow the reeds to open more, I notice that it looked exactly like the OPs, what had happened was when I bent the reed stops, it had only bent just after the screws, so the reeds did not site correctly as the OPs pics show.
It was fine revving high but terrible down low, and I mean low ie tickover and just above, any gain somewhere causes a loss somewhere else, my bike was highly tuned.
If its a road bike you don't want to be keeping revs up all the time in traffic.
I bent the reed stop back and only bent the last half of reed stop to fix problem, just saying what happened to me.
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new reeds
Apr 22, 2020 14:03:00 GMT 1
via mobile
Post by liffy16 on Apr 22, 2020 14:03:00 GMT 1
Yea but do they actually make any noticeable difference?? Wouldn't it be cheaper to lose weight 😁😂
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Post by tony2stroke on Apr 22, 2020 14:06:03 GMT 1
It was recommended to bend Harpowa reeds using hot water so that they had a 1mm bow in the middle (1mm off the face of the reed block between the fixings and the tips.) this was done on a regular basis until they started to split, as stusco says, pressure seals and opens them. I think this was done as harpower reeds were single reeds and the bridge was removed from the reed cage, that would also be for racing really, the bow would help with stopping the reed being pulled through the reed cage ie more resistance. You would not be worrying about low revs in this situation, horses for courses is the expression. That's my opinion anyway. |
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Post by tony2stroke on Apr 22, 2020 14:07:29 GMT 1
Yea but do they actually make any noticeable difference?? Wouldn't it be cheaper to lose weight 😁😂 Not on their own they won't, just a little better throttle response, no power gains without other mods too. |
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Post by reedpete on Apr 22, 2020 14:53:33 GMT 1
I’ve noticed that the block can corrode under the rubberised surface. Another reason to lift the tips.
You really do need to get the tips closed otherwise there is possibility of low speed problems.
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Post by mannanan on Apr 22, 2020 16:11:40 GMT 1
All this talk of reed replacement has made me nervous. My F2 is still running on its original 30 year old reeds with 23,000 miles on them. Too much time on my hands so now I am worrying if metal fatigue has set in. Will the motor eat them some time soon? Should I replace them as a matter of urgency? Perhaps it’s just the cabin fever setting in with Covid 19 restrictions but you now have me worried!
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Post by tony2stroke on Apr 22, 2020 18:17:45 GMT 1
All this talk of reed replacement has made me nervous. My F2 is still running on its original 30 year old reeds with 23,000 miles on them. Too much time on my hands so now I am worrying if metal fatigue has set in. Will the motor eat them some time soon? Should I replace them as a matter of urgency? Perhaps it’s just the cabin fever setting in with Covid 19 restrictions but you now have me worried! I have yet to hear about a standard reed snapping, done a poll on this on the ACRD site, common consensus was nobody could say they had them snap and back it up with info. Although a few said they had fibre reeds snap, including myself. Fibre reeds need checking on a regular basis. |
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Post by reedpete on Apr 22, 2020 18:35:21 GMT 1
All this talk of reed replacement has made me nervous. My F2 is still running on its original 30 year old reeds with 23,000 miles on them. Too much time on my hands so now I am worrying if metal fatigue has set in. Will the motor eat them some time soon? Should I replace them as a matter of urgency? Perhaps it’s just the cabin fever setting in with Covid 19 restrictions but you now have me worried! Relax, they are ok... ! |
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Post by 4l04ever on Apr 22, 2020 18:45:05 GMT 1
You can try the reeds on the cage without the stops, just loose to see if they are sitting flush. This will show if it is the stop or the reed causing the issue. Try flipping them over as Mutts mentioned and see if they fit better loose first, then screw them down whichever fits best :-)
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new reeds
Apr 22, 2020 18:50:08 GMT 1
via mobile
Post by beardy on Apr 22, 2020 18:50:08 GMT 1
I’ve just recently bought some genuine Yamaha metal reeds to replace the donkeys years old fibre reeds in mine. I can’t even remember if they’re harpowa or boyeson? What I vaguely do remember is bending the stops out further for the fibre reeds.
Does anyone know the standard reed stop gap for a pv?
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new reeds
Apr 22, 2020 18:51:19 GMT 1
via mobile
Post by beardy on Apr 22, 2020 18:51:19 GMT 1
Sorry for the hijack
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Post by Dieseldog on Apr 22, 2020 19:12:27 GMT 1
All this talk of reed replacement has made me nervous. My F2 is still running on its original 30 year old reeds with 23,000 miles on them. Too much time on my hands so now I am worrying if metal fatigue has set in. Will the motor eat them some time soon? Should I replace them as a matter of urgency? Perhaps it’s just the cabin fever setting in with Covid 19 restrictions but you now have me worried! I have yet to hear about a standard reed snapping, done a poll on this on the ACRD site, common consensus was nobody could say they had them snap and back it up with info. Although a few said they had fibre reeds snap, including myself. Fibre reeds need checking on a regular basis. This happened last year on the NERDOC yearly fun to Oban, believe it was original - RD400 Made a new reed out of old plastic milk bottle carton. Bike made it from Sterling services to Oban where a 2nd hand metal Reed was put in.  |
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Post by tony2stroke on Apr 22, 2020 19:36:43 GMT 1
I have yet to hear about a standard reed snapping, done a poll on this on the ACRD site, common consensus was nobody could say they had them snap and back it up with info. Although a few said they had fibre reeds snap, including myself. Fibre reeds need checking on a regular basis. This happened last year on the NERDOC yearly fun to Oban, believe it was original - RD400 Made a new red out of old milk bottle cartin. Bike made it from Sterling services to Oban where a 2nd hand metal Reed was put in. flic.kr/p/2iTbu4nI would like to see it, but its blocked somehow, was it a fibre reed that snapped ? or metal ? |
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Post by Dieseldog on Apr 22, 2020 19:59:57 GMT 1
This happened last year on the NERDOC yearly fun to Oban, believe it was original - RD400 Made a new red out of old milk bottle cartin. Bike made it from Sterling services to Oban where a 2nd hand metal Reed was put in. flic.kr/p/2iTbu4nI would like to see it, but its blocked somehow, was it a fibre reed that snapped ? or metal ? Picture now showing above |
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Post by tony2stroke on Apr 22, 2020 20:10:45 GMT 1
I would like to see it, but its blocked somehow, was it a fibre reed that snapped ? or metal ? Picture now showing above WOW!!!!!!! thanks for posting that, that's the first 1 I have seen damaged, and wow how that's damaged, I wonder what made that happen, and where was the rest of it, surely you didn't ride it with the rest of the reed in the engine ? |
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Post by tony2stroke on Apr 22, 2020 20:33:25 GMT 1
Also I should have said never seen snapped reed in standard engine, Sorry about that
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Post by Gitram on Apr 23, 2020 18:23:43 GMT 1
Gosh.. that's shocking.. loving the milk jug fix, tho
marti
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Post by mattybeckett on Apr 24, 2020 15:49:41 GMT 1
I recently replaced my fibre reeds with some new one's, the old one's had a little shim made out of the original metal reeds, they went in place after the fibre reed and before reed stop, without the shims the new reeds had a slight gap and with them fitted they were perfect . I also had one reed block I stripped down that had little shims fitted under the fibre reeds made of coke can. They can be tweaked one way or another like this, but the smaller the shims that will do the job the better to stop putting to much resistance on reeds opening.
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