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Post by kostas on Mar 27, 2019 20:36:09 GMT 1
Hmmm MEK . Use with caution , I seem to remember reading about a chap got some In a paper cut and the cut wouldn't heal .when it did heal up he noticed a lump. Trip to the Dr .Then the Hospital to have lump removed ,ended up losing arm up to the elbow . Not Nice. Use it every day.. it’s a real pain when even a tiny bit gets in any tidy cut on your hand. Never had any lump forming but this doesn’t mean it cannot happen. Gloves is a must. Worst stuff out there, like Mastinox
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Post by kostas on Mar 27, 2019 16:09:55 GMT 1
MEK, Acetone, super glue remover should all dissolve it or you can use localised heat A few people know what MEK is.. but it does work miracles
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Post by kostas on Mar 21, 2019 22:48:12 GMT 1
Steve, I had the same happen on my bike months after being painted. Problem is exactly what fellow 3tj6 describes. He is right on the money on this one.
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Post by kostas on Mar 20, 2019 21:02:22 GMT 1
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Post by kostas on Mar 18, 2019 12:29:19 GMT 1
Sounds and looks lovely! Workshop looks the real deal!
Enjoy it!
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Post by kostas on Mar 16, 2019 9:16:00 GMT 1
The brakes. . . . The brakes are the primary safety device on a motorcycle, if everything goes wrong and you have to use the primary safety device then it absolutely has to work. Don't fek about with the brakes. What’s the secondary device then? Jumping off?
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Post by kostas on Mar 10, 2019 22:14:07 GMT 1
I use it on my f1, works flawlessly.
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Post by kostas on Feb 23, 2019 12:40:28 GMT 1
To add at the confusion just noticed that according to the box the 1215 has excellent resistance to gasoline!!! DCA7FCC0-22F7-4A96-A22D-093CDA1055FB by k.apostolopoulos, on Flickr I believe it’s all the same stuff in different packing... Next stop for 2stroke oil is now the local lawn mower repair shop... Kostas
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Post by kostas on Feb 22, 2019 18:58:45 GMT 1
Correct, M have the separate seal housing. N and onwards are like mine.
Quality seals and bushings available from Suzuki. The seals are made from NOK if you find the same size / spec then you are as good as OEM. False economy to get whatever available from whoever has a few...
You might need a tool to hold the seal housing in place..
Kostas
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Post by kostas on Feb 21, 2019 21:45:24 GMT 1
thanks urbantangleweed..... what did you make? how did you get round this.. might be obvious when stripped down but like to be prepared cheers The special tools the manual calls out are useless, I fully stripped and rebuild mine using my less than average quality spaners. That said the early VJ22M forks have removable seal carriers that can be a real pain to put together, unlike the ones in the video. Which forks have you got? These are mine with the fixed seal carriers 6DC8D862-2436-4DA6-87C3-3822843F56ED by k.apostolopoulos, on Flickr Kostas
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Post by kostas on Feb 21, 2019 18:53:48 GMT 1
Just looked into the RGV forum about the correct stuff and now I’m even more confused..
As if I asked what the best 2 stroke oil is...
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Post by kostas on Feb 21, 2019 17:14:11 GMT 1
So why suzuki asks for 1215 if not fuel resistant? I’m pretty sure 1215 is fuel resistant
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Post by kostas on Feb 21, 2019 16:14:45 GMT 1
When I was desperate once I used some 5 year old 1211. it had separated and i had to mix it on a spatula before applying it to the cases with my fingers.... and... that engine has been fine. Im not saying you cant buy new stuff, just dont panic if on the day you need an engine built you find yours is a bit out of date is all. Totally agree with you on this.. Mellow said in his original post that his 1104 is now 12 years old and he was questioning wheather to use it or not. That’s a bit too far .. Kostas
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Post by kostas on Feb 20, 2019 21:48:56 GMT 1
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Post by kostas on Feb 19, 2019 16:34:08 GMT 1
Is it any good? That’s the bottom line.. Wurth products are most of the times...
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Post by kostas on Feb 15, 2019 16:27:37 GMT 1
You have a leak somewhere...
If your inlet line or tank was dirty the valves may pass again..
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Post by kostas on Feb 15, 2019 16:25:51 GMT 1
Don’t confuse shelf life with the useful life from the day the product is opened. Once opened the air reacts with the solvents in the sealant messing up its properties.
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Post by kostas on Feb 15, 2019 16:19:59 GMT 1
Clean the top of the crankcase and then lay kitchen roll under the reed rubbers, carbs etc. If you do have a leak from anywhere there, the kitchen paper will show it. Likewise, lay it on your frame tubes below the cases - will show a clutch casing leak or weep from the oil pump. The clutch case bolts go into blind castings - if the wrong bolts (too long) have been used in the past they can crack the end of the castings and oil can escape - same as if the cases have been blasted and there is blasting media left in the holes. Lack of sealant between the case halves will allow the oil to escape too. Dusty So what’s the cure ? Yes I see it coming from the hole under the casings Run your finger under the reed blocks to verify where it’s coming from. If wet with oil then pull the 2stroke oil hoses from the carbs put those in two cups let them sit for a day and see if the pump check valves are leaking.
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Post by kostas on Feb 15, 2019 6:24:29 GMT 1
Be Very sure you Do Not buy a 'Made in China' bearing. Koyo bearings have been Plastic Caged for years .. since late 80s I believe .. Yesss it's a genuine Improvement. Surprised you can still get (or even Want) steel cages My RGV was build on 1992 and it does have steel caged Koyo bearings. Don’t be surprised, I just want what’s right for the motor. All the other bearings I bought for the gearbox are koyo and steel caged..
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Post by kostas on Feb 13, 2019 16:12:18 GMT 1
I would not use any sealant that is opened for more than 12months. Had to re-do my 350 cases so I learned the hard way.
Kostas
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Post by kostas on Feb 12, 2019 19:05:25 GMT 1
Looks plastic to me..
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Post by kostas on Feb 12, 2019 19:02:14 GMT 1
Not so silly that question.. Since Yama doesn’t produce any bearings but you pay premium for a Yama sticker
I recently purchased gearbox bearings for my RGV from simply bearings and I was in for a surprise. Sprocket bearing from Suzuki is priced at 30-40 euros, same size/spec bearing from Simply Bearings came for 8 euro.
But when I removed the rubber seal from the one side of the bearing I noticed that the cage on the new bearing is plastic where the old one is steel.. Now do I get a new suzuki bearing just to find out these are superseded with plastic cage bearings or do I stick with what I have?
Kind of highjacked the thread here mellow..
Kostas
Edit; both bearings are Koyo, Simply bearings support told me that Koyo has stopped producing steel cage bearings for the size I’m looking for...
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Post by kostas on Feb 10, 2019 18:18:08 GMT 1
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Post by kostas on Feb 9, 2019 9:17:04 GMT 1
Nope not talking about the joiner but for the splash tray. What I think this does is that it directs oil thank us splashed from the basket to the upper side of the gearbox & bearings. I would not remove it
Also pull the kickstart mechanism to have a look behind
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Post by kostas on Feb 4, 2019 22:24:23 GMT 1
Arrow has dome all my 250/350 pumps, hes a magician that can turn ugly sh1t into what seems like a new pump, and the bonus is it works properly after. Hes also a top bloke too. I wish I could find someone to refurb my 500 pump in the same way he does the smaller bikes. I would say the same about my RGV pump..
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Nuts!
Feb 4, 2019 16:29:24 GMT 1
via mobile
skint likes this
Post by kostas on Feb 4, 2019 16:29:24 GMT 1
If your crank is out then I would suggest that you take it to a local garage and have it undone with an air driven rattle gun.
That’s it if you don’t have one yourself.
Kostas
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Post by kostas on Feb 3, 2019 13:24:51 GMT 1
What if you install without soaking??
I didn’t soak mine when fitted 5 years back..
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Post by kostas on Feb 1, 2019 22:21:44 GMT 1
I wish you all find the strength to get thru this Mark. Such a heartbreaking story.. I admire your and your wife’s strength.
Kostas.
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Post by kostas on Jan 29, 2019 22:36:35 GMT 1
You need to punch the spacer down and compress the spring at the same time hold the rod up. You will see as you compress the spacer there is locknut hidden in there, put your wrench against the nut and undo the fork cap. (item 4) on this picture: E281EEF7-44BE-4F73-9039-96B758987427 by k.apostolopoulos, on Flickr Then you should be able to withdraw the spring and spacer 0A6E8331-B81D-489B-A4D8-FB675F48311A by k.apostolopoulos, on Flickr Alternatively you can just fill to capacity (429cc each leg) and pray for the best! Do you have a manual?
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Post by kostas on Jan 29, 2019 21:51:19 GMT 1
I think the manual does make it seem harder that it is. From what I read, Hold it upright - no spring - fill with oil - work the inner damping rod thing - fill again - extend and coumpress outer tube - fill to correct level 201D93ED-E10D-4F80-A6A5-DBA35CE89F55 by k.apostolopoulos, on Flickr
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