zeotz
L plate rider.
Posts: 10
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Post by zeotz on Feb 9, 2019 8:29:12 GMT 1
hello everyone.
i am helping a friend fix his rd350lc and the problem was the kickstarter had a strong kickback when kickstarting. once after it started he revved the bike and it had a loud klonk and engine stalled.
i openned the clutchcase and saw the gear behind clutchhousing was broken.
we changed the clutch housing and put it back together .. also changed the flywheel for the kickstarter as i felt loose...
but when i tried to kick start the same thing happened.. there is a strong kickback or when the enginge starts .. a kock sound engine stalls.
any idea what it could be? the kickstarter gear assembly possible?
another question is that the cover plate that is behind the clutch assembly was damaged after the first incident... can i do away with that plate? it doesnt seem to be doing anything beside like a splash plate to the two orifices that is behind it.
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Post by stusco on Feb 9, 2019 8:38:52 GMT 1
Put up some photos to give us a better idea
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zeotz
L plate rider.
Posts: 10
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Post by zeotz on Feb 9, 2019 8:41:24 GMT 1
hello everyone. i am helping a friend fix his rd350lc and the problem was the kickstarter had a strong kickback when kickstarting. once after it started he revved the bike and it had a loud klonk and engine stalled. i openned the clutchcase and saw the gear behind clutchhousing was broken. we changed the clutch housing and put it back together .. also changed the flywheel for the kickstarter as i felt loose... but when i tried to kick start the same thing happened.. there is a strong kickback or when the enginge starts .. a kock sound engine stalls. any idea what it could be? the kickstarter gear assembly possible? another question is that the cover plate that is behind the clutch assembly was damaged after the first incident... can i do away with that plate? it doesnt seem to be doing anything beside like a splash plate to the two orifices that is behind it. |
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Post by LC_BOTT on Feb 9, 2019 8:44:41 GMT 1
Was the kickstart spring located correctly, sometimes they are fitted outside the little casting, this could be somwhere to start looking. I'm guessing the small case joiner (half moon shape) is what you're thinking of removing?
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zeotz
L plate rider.
Posts: 10
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Post by zeotz on Feb 9, 2019 8:51:24 GMT 1
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Post by LC_BOTT on Feb 9, 2019 9:15:38 GMT 1
Sometimes the spring falls out of the cast locater in the crankcase (can't see in your pic), along with a worn idler gear bush, I'd be looking at these bits first. I assume you have all the shims in the correct places. As seen in this pic .... farm5.staticflickr.com/4367/36039094853_fa85989b30_k.jpghad an engine where the spring tang has been fitted into the oil drain holes before |
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Post by Yogi on Feb 9, 2019 9:15:54 GMT 1
Seen one similar before where the dampers had been changed in the basket
and the bolts were too long making them catch the idler gear
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Post by kostas on Feb 9, 2019 9:17:04 GMT 1
Nope not talking about the joiner but for the splash tray.
What I think this does is that it directs oil thank us splashed from the basket to the upper side of the gearbox & bearings.
I would not remove it
Also pull the kickstart mechanism to have a look behind
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Post by dusty350 on Feb 9, 2019 9:30:27 GMT 1
Hi The chewed up plate with one screw missing is still available from Yamaha. Part no. 278 15492 01 It's £2.60 from Fowlers and in stock, so for that money I would replace it. The half moon plate below it helps prevent the large bearing moving sideways under clutch actuation, so you want to keep that in there. They are still available new too, but it looks like you could clean yours up and re use. Check the little wire hoop on the back of the kickstart gear is locating in the housing in the crank case;  20181026_111012 by dusty miller, on Flickr Dusty  |
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Post by headcoats on Feb 9, 2019 10:03:44 GMT 1
So was the kickstart moving freely when you were trying it out before starting engine ?
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zeotz
L plate rider.
Posts: 10
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Post by zeotz on Feb 9, 2019 10:31:58 GMT 1
Sometimes the spring falls out of the cast locater in the crankcase (can't see in your pic), along with a worn idler gear bush, I'd be looking at these bits first. I assume you have all the shims in the correct places. As seen in this pic .... farm5.staticflickr.com/4367/36039094853_fa85989b30_k.jpghad an engine where the spring tang has been fitted into the oil drain holes before i did send to machinist to recon the idler gear bush as I suspected that it was wobbling and therefore catching the kickstarter gear from returning into place. but no luck. the spring loop is in the correct notch as shown the pic by another post here I felt the return of kickstarter gear was not so smooth, sometimes stuck halfway down. so it must be the culprit i suppose. it looks nothing wrong though. is there supposed to be shims or washers on the shaft of the kickstrater gear before or after the plastic bushing? |
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Post by Yogi on Feb 9, 2019 10:34:18 GMT 1
Nope there's no washers
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Post by headcoats on Feb 9, 2019 10:38:09 GMT 1
Isn't that wire clip supposed to have a certain friction ?
Don't know if above link will explain anything |
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zeotz
L plate rider.
Posts: 10
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Post by zeotz on Feb 9, 2019 10:40:12 GMT 1
So was the kickstart moving freely when you were trying it out before starting engine ? I would say yes, but sometimes with hesitation midway through on some down strokes (not always returning back to normal) I was thinking that the problem might actually be the kickstarter gear however strangely, when I do get a smooth kick, and after the engine has started and running (means the kickstarter gear already correctly moved back to place I assume) , after a few seconds a klonk sound is heard and engine stalls, apparently something got caught somewhere |
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zeotz
L plate rider.
Posts: 10
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Post by zeotz on Feb 9, 2019 10:44:04 GMT 1
Nope not talking about the joiner but for the splash tray. What I think this does is that it directs oil thank us splashed from the basket to the upper side of the gearbox & bearings. I would not remove it Also pull the kickstart mechanism to have a look behind OK I will find the part to replace the splash plate. another post gave the part number and its helpful. one of the screw head for the plate was damaged and so need screw extractor to remove. |
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zeotz
L plate rider.
Posts: 10
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Post by zeotz on Feb 9, 2019 10:46:17 GMT 1
Seen one similar before where the dampers had been changed in the basket and the bolts were too long making them catch the idler gear dampers were removed from the basket, but i read in a few articles its fine to remove ... and I did not notice any bolts protuding |
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zeotz
L plate rider.
Posts: 10
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Post by zeotz on Feb 9, 2019 10:47:24 GMT 1
Isn't that wire clip supposed to have a certain friction ?
Don't know if above link will explain anything oh really? it has to be timed? mayb its worth a closer look. |
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Post by stusco on Feb 9, 2019 10:59:08 GMT 1
The splash guard looks damaged did it always have one screw maybe it’s caught the clutch gear
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zeotz
L plate rider.
Posts: 10
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Post by zeotz on Feb 9, 2019 11:02:38 GMT 1
The splash guard looks damaged did it always have one screw maybe it’s caught the clutch gear it got damaged when the inner ring gear was broken and sheered the screw head off. after I got it started the 2nd time, it was without any screws, so it wasnt the source of the problem i guess |
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zeotz
L plate rider.
Posts: 10
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Post by zeotz on Feb 10, 2019 3:09:54 GMT 1
Isn't that wire clip supposed to have a certain friction ?
Don't know if above link will explain anything i removed the kickstarter assembly but didnt find any markings for "timing" the spring ... how do we know the splice is in the correct alignment and the spring is in correct tension? |
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Post by LC_BOTT on Feb 10, 2019 10:30:03 GMT 1
I didn't think there was any way or need to set the spring, taken one apart recently, and everything just slips round, and think once the lug on the shaft is seated in the casing, the spring will have the correct tension, once it's hooked over that casing dowel/shaft.
I thought it would be more important on an old vintage type bike, where you normally kick it over after finding TDC, but just guessing.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Feb 10, 2019 12:11:44 GMT 1
I didn't think there was any way or need to set the spring, taken one apart recently, and everything just slips round, and think once the lug on the shaft is seated in the casing, the spring will have the correct tension, once it's hooked over that casing dowel/shaft. I thought it would be more important on an old vintage type bike, where you normally kick it over after finding TDC, but just guessing. I agree, it's a different mechanism |
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