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Post by rich on Feb 14, 2021 19:54:57 GMT 1
I bought some M8 exhaust studs off ebay
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Post by rich on Feb 8, 2021 22:51:03 GMT 1
All you need is a multimeter that can accurately measure ohms. Then you just measure the resistance of the various coils and compare the readings to the specified values (from workshop manual) and see if they are within tolerance. That's pretty much it. Plenty of help and advice on here if you need it.
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Post by rich on Feb 7, 2021 18:22:01 GMT 1
I always bottom them out
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Post by rich on Feb 7, 2021 15:36:49 GMT 1
Ledar nozzles are pretty redundant these days. As Dusty said they were developed to prevent the flat spot associated with metal backed pod filters such as K&N and S&B. If you are running filters, just use the foam Ramairs and they will work fine, or the original airbox.
Allspeeds should work fine with standard jetting on the airbox but you will need to alter the jetting significantly if you run filters.
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Post by rich on Jan 26, 2021 1:58:55 GMT 1
Seen it done although not sure of the details. Only problem is you lose the temperature gauge.
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Post by rich on Jan 17, 2021 0:56:01 GMT 1
What a shame, didn't he do the monoshock conversion on the GP100+ in PB many years ago?
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Post by rich on Jan 12, 2021 20:45:27 GMT 1
Phil, once you deviate from stock there is no right or wrong way of doing things because there are so many variables. What works for one bike may not necessarily work on another, even if they use similar parts. As long as nothing fouls from lock to lock the it will be fine. Step back, have a look at the bigger picture and reassess the situation before you splash out on new lines. Maybe you could re-route the wiring loom?
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Post by rich on Jan 5, 2021 0:15:52 GMT 1
Use drill bit under each slide to get the idle screws even (make sure there is slack in the cables or do them off the bike). Obviously, once these are done adjust them both by the same amount. Then adjust the cables so both slides lift together. I usually look down the back of both carbs together and make sure the slides are fully open at the same time so you can just see the bottom edge of the slide disappear. You can do this on the bike with the airbox rubbers removed and a mirror behind the carbs. Make any adjustment on the top adjusters.
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Post by rich on Jan 2, 2021 17:44:38 GMT 1
I had been thinking XJ550 but it ain't that.. marti Nope, XJs were twin shock and had cast wheels and front discs. I'm struggling a bit.....
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Post by rich on Jan 2, 2021 17:15:54 GMT 1
Any clues Steve? water or air cooled? cc?
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Post by rich on Jan 2, 2021 17:07:32 GMT 1
DT50MX
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Post by rich on Dec 30, 2020 15:56:50 GMT 1
Mine has 41mm Fazer forks and top yoke in 3MA lower yoke. I am at work now but will post up more details this evening
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Post by rich on Dec 27, 2020 13:46:44 GMT 1
I actually made my own using mountain bike gear cables from Ebay, work out really cheap too. As above, as long as they can be adjusted within the required range they will be fine. The only tricky bit was making nipples the right size to fit the recesses in the valve pulley. I cut the plastic insulation off some electrical terminals and crimped them on.
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Post by rich on Dec 25, 2020 20:25:35 GMT 1
Thats a big looking front sprocket 17t is standard size. Maybe looks bigger as it's offset?
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Post by rich on Dec 24, 2020 13:09:47 GMT 1
What other colour blue was there ? Only main blue was candy blue, although there were 2 versions of the white with blue stripes.
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Post by rich on Dec 23, 2020 21:06:41 GMT 1
The 350LC Reg DAB322W was first bought by me brand new when I was a lad. Itβs looking great now, but when new it was white and blue. Andy. Wow only now seeing this i have also pm'd you but this post has already answered my question. She's candy blue now was this the original colour? Candy blue didn't come out until 1982 so can't be the original colour
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Post by rich on Dec 21, 2020 0:12:25 GMT 1
LC2 should have the square type, F1/N1 is coffin type
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Post by rich on Dec 18, 2020 22:11:11 GMT 1
Wow what a trio! Hate the wavy discs on the 500LC though.
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Post by rich on Dec 18, 2020 20:32:12 GMT 1
Still knock spots off Higgspeeds, now they are terrible. Hand made so never going to be perfect.
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Post by rich on Dec 17, 2020 0:37:39 GMT 1
Anyone know the purpose of the rubber rings between the metal plates? noise reduction. Also helps separate the clutch plates when lever is pulled in to prevent drag.
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Post by rich on Nov 28, 2020 22:10:24 GMT 1
The hooks on the underside of the seat itself, or the catches that are on the frame?
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Post by rich on Nov 15, 2020 17:39:28 GMT 1
Sounds like you have a front indicator and brake light switch wire mixed up in the headlight. Try swapping them over.
The black near the flasher relay is supposed to be spare and is only used for other countries.
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Post by rich on Nov 15, 2020 15:35:11 GMT 1
What are you struggling with?
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Post by rich on Nov 9, 2020 22:18:20 GMT 1
Should have said the NK wrench is 12mm (14mm on the other end) Steve Ah, got 13mm on mine
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Post by rich on Nov 9, 2020 21:17:48 GMT 1
I guess you realise that you would need to reduce the torque setting if you use the NK wrench as it will move the centre of rotation away from the bolt that you are trying to torque? To be honest, I just do them up by hand in a diagonal sequence a quarter of a turn at a time until they feel tight using a 13mm spanner.
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Post by rich on Nov 7, 2020 15:33:08 GMT 1
Also bear in mind you will have to find a matching rear end.
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Post by rich on Nov 5, 2020 20:33:07 GMT 1
Hi and welcome, nothing wrong with an XT500! Reason you don't see many F1's for sale is the relatively short model run - they only made them for about a year and the N1 was even rarer.
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Post by rich on Oct 31, 2020 22:23:44 GMT 1
I bought a brand new F2 in 1986 after passing my test. Kept it 2 years but had to sell it when I started driving.
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Post by rich on Oct 17, 2020 12:01:22 GMT 1
Not 3 grand nice!
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Post by rich on Oct 13, 2020 18:22:41 GMT 1
My guess would be carb related, does that cylinder kick in when you rev it or is it just on idle?
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