|
Post by rich on Oct 7, 2020 22:43:25 GMT 1
I have a Domino twin pull throttle on my LC and I made two single cables, one going to each carb but mine runs premix so no pump to worry about. KR1 throttle has a quick action and can be used with some fiddling.
|
|
|
Post by rich on Oct 6, 2020 21:23:45 GMT 1
I'd keep an eye on it, last thing you want is the pads meeting in the middle when they wear down!
|
|
|
Post by rich on Oct 4, 2020 18:49:22 GMT 1
Does the FZ 600 lining have a higher friction coefficent ? No, the FZ plates are wider due to having a smaller inside diameter. The FZ bikes don't have the rubber damper rings inside the plates so you end up with a larger surface area when you use them in an LC or YPVS.
|
|
|
Post by rich on Sept 29, 2020 22:47:28 GMT 1
I'd love one, especially the one with the red wheels and green in the graphics. I have a 2008 Tuono V2 and it's still awesome, I have owned it about 9 years and never get bored of it. It has so much torque will it will easily lift the wheel in most gears over the slightest hump in the road and grunt from 2000rpm in top all the way to the red. Mine's been dynoed at 121bhp at the wheel so I can only imagine what the V4 is like. I have often thought about 'upgrading' to the V4 but couldn't afford an 1100 and the reliability issues of the earlier 1000 puts me off. Don't get me wrong, the LC is awesome and I love them both in different ways but you can't beat the outright grunt of a big super naked. Here's mine
|
|
|
Post by rich on Sept 28, 2020 7:49:57 GMT 1
Stupid question - can do you reliably do a leak down test on a YPVS? I'm thinking if you block off the exhaust port surely you will lose pressure around the power valve seals?
|
|
|
Post by rich on Sept 25, 2020 20:28:26 GMT 1
Yep, b*****d job drilling perspex plates. Have to be so careful or drill can snatch and craze the perspex.
|
|
|
Post by rich on Sept 22, 2020 15:43:01 GMT 1
Castrol Power 1 Racing 2T Fully Synthetic - expensive at about £14 a litre but readily available from Halfords. However as above any fully or semi synthetic stuff will be fine and far superior to what we used back in the day. There is an awful lot of brand snobbery (myself included) when it comes to oil! Exol Optima Racing 2T is also good and very reasonably priced www.ebay.co.uk/itm/OPTIMA-RACING-2-STROKE-OIL-5-LT-JASO-FD-5L-EXOL-BRANDED/111696260021?epid=15018795690&hash=item1a019dabb5:g:WA4AAOSwlqtdRCpnMy bike is on premix and has been for years as it was 'the done thing' and I run it at 40:1 (125ml oil to every 5L petrol) but Arrow on this forum can rebuild your injection pump and it will be better than new. He can also customise the oil delivery rate for tuned bikes.
|
|
|
Post by rich on Sept 21, 2020 21:08:19 GMT 1
Same type as 350LC, I would go up to 27.5
|
|
|
Post by rich on Sept 15, 2020 19:56:58 GMT 1
Not bad but those discs are bloody awful! Front headlight is pants too, but the rest of it doesn't look bad at all.
|
|
|
Post by rich on Sept 15, 2020 19:13:35 GMT 1
You can get a rough idea how fresh the crank is by the colour of the flywheel webs. If it's original at 60k (around 40k miles) they will be pretty black from blow by. if it's fresher, they are more likely to be a lighter grey colour.
|
|
|
Post by rich on Sept 15, 2020 14:22:34 GMT 1
Sorry to hear this but it's really common on the Jazz as it has a cat under the car where most other small cars have a 'manicat' where the cat is part of the manifold and cannot be easily removed. We have bought quite a few from Copart as salvage as they get written off due to genuine Honda prices. As above, parts are about £500 from motor factors and about an hour to fit as you need both lambda sensors, cat and centre pipe. The rear lambda is a bit of a shit as the wiring goes inside the car so trim has to be removed. Worth doing though, they are really good little cars apart from the rear brake calipers have a habit of seizing at mot time.
|
|
|
Post by rich on Sept 12, 2020 15:05:04 GMT 1
I bought a Skidmarx fibreglass Pro Am belly pan a while back but it won't fit around the spannies on my LC. I am thinking about slicing right down the underside with a Dremel or jigsaw almost to the nose, spreading the rear section apart and rivetting an ally plate on the underside to hold it apart. I will then fibreglass back over the join. The fibreglass is pretty thick and I am concerned about it splitting. Anyone else done this? I'm a bit reluctant to hack it about if it's a no go.
Thanks
|
|
|
Post by rich on Sept 7, 2020 13:17:42 GMT 1
I'd be finding an old LC stand and someone who can weld. Lots of stands out there but no good if it doesn't fit the frame mount, or the spring doesn't line up
|
|
|
Post by rich on Aug 31, 2020 11:46:58 GMT 1
Always had good results using car wheel silver and lacquer over the top.
|
|
|
Post by rich on Aug 28, 2020 20:49:46 GMT 1
That's basically a sleeve. I'd have a look on ebay for some mild steel tube, 18mm od with 1mm wall thickness and cut to length yourself
|
|
|
Speedo?
Aug 25, 2020 18:07:22 GMT 1
Post by rich on Aug 25, 2020 18:07:22 GMT 1
My guess FZ600
|
|
|
Post by rich on Aug 22, 2020 19:19:17 GMT 1
If you have a YPVS engine in an LC with LC wheel, you should use the LC sprocket spacer
|
|
|
Post by rich on Aug 16, 2020 8:10:12 GMT 1
I had Lomas pipes on mine and Gibson exhaust modified the rear mounts
|
|
|
Post by rich on Aug 11, 2020 18:59:04 GMT 1
Hi, the charging system is seperate of the ignition side so the bike will start and run fine even if it's not charging.
Usually, charging faults are caused by one of 3 things: 1) Charging coils in the stator - separate the plug and check across each pair of white wires and compare the resistances in the stator. The plug itself can often melt if the connections are iffy or corroded. 2) Wiring fault - check the other side of the plug into the loom for continuity of the 3 white wires to the reg/rec and the red, brown and black wires to ground and fuse box / battery connections. 3) Carry out a diode check on the reg/rec as show in the Haynes manual. The reg/rec is usually very reliable but I once had one where the red wire had corroded in the connector.
Good luck and if you need any more into just ask. My money is on a melted stator plug!
|
|
|
Post by rich on Aug 11, 2020 12:59:23 GMT 1
I wouldn't touch it out of principle, I can't stand all that spiel and bullshit in the description! As already said, that bike has been for sale for ever and a day and is way overpriced.
I would much rather buy a bike from an enthusiast or forum member. Even if it needs a little work, you will know what you are getting and will save a load of cash too.
|
|
|
Post by rich on Aug 9, 2020 21:46:43 GMT 1
I just poke it through with a blunt screwdriver, not damaged one yet!
|
|
|
Post by rich on Aug 8, 2020 14:57:21 GMT 1
Post up some pictures if you can, much better chance of identifying them then.
|
|
|
Post by rich on Aug 3, 2020 13:15:59 GMT 1
|
|
|
Post by rich on Aug 1, 2020 14:17:37 GMT 1
I can't see why not. The jet at the back is the main air jet, not power jet so looks like an improvement over the old 31K carbs. There is no vacuum take off for the fuel tap and as you said no oil inlets but they can always be added.
|
|
|
Post by rich on Jul 22, 2020 16:24:03 GMT 1
Few cars round my way Y4 NOB Y4 FUD B16 MUF W33 NOB The last one was on a bus. Heard the boss put it on to wind up a particular driver 😂 Steve Not many private plates round here, you clearly live in an area that's considerably more upmarket than the average LC owner!
|
|
|
Post by rich on Jul 20, 2020 17:40:20 GMT 1
I made my shim from a piece of old baccy tin
|
|
|
Post by rich on Jul 19, 2020 19:06:57 GMT 1
Drum side is the same between 250 and 350, sprocket side is different
|
|
|
Post by rich on Jul 18, 2020 14:18:27 GMT 1
Fit as in drop straight in, or fit as can be made to fit?
I can guarantee it won't drop straight in. So it's a question of how much work you want to do. I think the 150 tyre should just about clear the chain but it will be tight. Other things to consider are chain alignment and difference in axle diameter. The YPVS runs a 15mm axle, I am guessing the Mito is probably 17 or 20mm so will either need sleeving down or the YPVS arm and adjusters opening out to the size of the Mito spindle. You will also need the Mito rear brake setup so also have to consider how the caliper mount is anchored to the arm.
|
|
|
Post by rich on Jul 14, 2020 20:34:24 GMT 1
I had it as well, no issues buyer paid up all ok although I was a bit suspicious too.
|
|
|
Post by rich on Jul 14, 2020 16:17:57 GMT 1
Spot on, the difference between LC and YPVS spacer is about 6mm from memory anyway. Another tip, if you haven't got a YPVS spacer you can pack the sprocket out using clutch basket thrust washers as they are the same diameter
|
|