|
Post by wangwang on Apr 27, 2020 13:15:19 GMT 1
Yeah you need to use a hole saw to make a new hole. Masking tape, mark it up from your old one cut the hole, job done. 👍
|
|
|
Post by wangwang on Apr 26, 2020 22:21:22 GMT 1
I'd be in for a couple 👍
|
|
|
Post by wangwang on Apr 26, 2020 11:35:57 GMT 1
Don't think there's any particular pattern, I have had older bikes with plastic ones and newer bikes with alloy. They were also fitted to some of the XJs too. Easiest way to identify an alloy cap is the small arrow but they are getting very hard to find now. Thanks, I have a bare cap and some odd innards, so hopefully be able to make one up.
|
|
|
Post by wangwang on Apr 26, 2020 10:38:20 GMT 1
think it was about a year by the time the 350lc came in the first ones hade them but when they ran out in japan they did the other ones Thanks, so a very early 250 would have had one?
|
|
|
Post by wangwang on Apr 26, 2020 9:05:19 GMT 1
How long were the alloy petrol caps fitted to LC's before they changed to plastic offset ones?
|
|
|
Post by wangwang on Apr 23, 2020 14:42:52 GMT 1
I've had ones that near fell off and ones that I've had to take the bezel off and hold the shaft with long nose pliers Steve Ditto
|
|
|
Post by wangwang on Apr 22, 2020 22:45:30 GMT 1
Simon Wells is probably the guy to ask.
|
|
|
Post by wangwang on Apr 22, 2020 15:53:44 GMT 1
No grub screw. Comes off the opposite way to resetting the trip. It will most likely be a bugger to do though.
|
|
|
Post by wangwang on Apr 20, 2020 18:56:09 GMT 1
Has your loom been messed with? Do you still get a circuit when the ignition switch is unplugged?
|
|
|
Post by wangwang on Apr 20, 2020 10:20:26 GMT 1
Bottom ones 👍
|
|
|
Post by wangwang on Apr 19, 2020 22:14:12 GMT 1
Hmm. I thought they were from a FZR but they seem to have two bleed nipples. These are 83mm bolt spacing and fit the RD125LC perfectly. The pins are in alright, they are supposed to had a clip on them but I ended up threading them and fitting different pins. Unfortunealy I threaded the wrong side! I'll go back and do the other side some day. Should be same as FZR400 1WG, the ones with two bleed nipples are the rear calipers. I have a set I found in the garage the other day.
|
|
|
Post by wangwang on Apr 13, 2020 14:23:20 GMT 1
Yes the caliper needs to slide freely on the hanger.
|
|
|
Post by wangwang on Apr 11, 2020 8:29:41 GMT 1
It's the same as the GSXR slingshots and SRADs too.
|
|
|
Post by wangwang on Apr 5, 2020 19:44:32 GMT 1
I used brake cleaner and a flexible toothbrush for the header tank, came up great, like new.
|
|
|
Post by wangwang on Apr 5, 2020 16:10:30 GMT 1
Just making some up at the minute, so yes there are a couple made ready to go.
|
|
|
Post by wangwang on Apr 1, 2020 16:16:21 GMT 1
Should do
|
|
|
seat lock
Mar 30, 2020 13:01:17 GMT 1
via mobile
Post by wangwang on Mar 30, 2020 13:01:17 GMT 1
Got the back off,removed arm out of the way.nothing now in the way. tried a gentle tap but didnt move,how dose it come out. which direction does it move-towards the back plate ? Put the key in, if you look at the back of the barrel push the last brass tumbler into itself with a small screwdriver, the barrel will then come out forwards.
|
|
|
Post by wangwang on Mar 30, 2020 10:28:18 GMT 1
Does sound electrical, maybe nothing to do with your bike, but years ago I had a short on the indicator relay that caused the same sort of problems you are getting.
|
|
|
seat lock
Mar 29, 2020 22:20:48 GMT 1
via mobile
Post by wangwang on Mar 29, 2020 22:20:48 GMT 1
Is it possible to remove the round chrome looking tin plate where the key fits in the slot and swop it with another of a spare lock plate thats not damaged Yes, but don't try and remove it from the front, it comes out with the barrel and then can be prised off.
|
|
|
Post by wangwang on Mar 29, 2020 13:05:36 GMT 1
I have the same ones as Yogi, used them loads of times. You will struggle to get the stator wires out without them
|
|
|
Post by wangwang on Mar 18, 2020 23:04:51 GMT 1
I've had a go at making the tacho loom that has the bulb holder and wiring for the temp gauge, and I don't think they look too bad, they seem quite expensive to get originals, when you can find one. If anyone is interested I can make to order, be about £10 posted (uk) Cheers wang
|
|
|
Post by wangwang on Mar 6, 2020 22:46:38 GMT 1
Of those ones from Germany ? The ones on the link, yes.
|
|
|
Post by wangwang on Mar 6, 2020 14:04:14 GMT 1
I've fitted some
|
|
|
Post by wangwang on Feb 17, 2020 23:27:46 GMT 1
You have to open the cases and swap. Not too difficult, but patience is needed.
|
|
|
Post by wangwang on Feb 17, 2020 23:26:23 GMT 1
I used a cheap electric staple/nail gun, some spray adhesive and a new seat foam and it was pretty straightforward. If it looks a bit wrong you can always take the staples out and do them again.
|
|
|
Post by wangwang on Feb 14, 2020 13:49:18 GMT 1
I have fitted some, but the engine is still sat on the kitchen top!
|
|
|
Post by wangwang on Jan 27, 2020 12:14:52 GMT 1
Early Swarbricks
|
|
|
Post by wangwang on Jan 16, 2020 13:38:08 GMT 1
I did mine on a wet pumice wheel at work, took all the paint off without doing any damage, also takes out light scratches, then used bumper shine, looks pretty decent now.
|
|
|
Post by wangwang on Jan 8, 2020 21:52:22 GMT 1
If you want to try another Tacho let me know, I'm near Blackburn ;-)
|
|
|
Post by wangwang on Jan 2, 2020 13:56:03 GMT 1
You do not need the kill switch connected to get a spark. If you PM me your email address, I can email a colour wiring diagram over to you. :-) Cheers Rob This diagram is worth it's weight in gold, helped me out loads of times, especially if you're working with someone else's bodges
|
|