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Post by looey on Apr 22, 2013 9:26:17 GMT 1
Ok, cheers for the advice chaps. I guess the centre clamp needs to be removed to get the barrels off anyway ?, so I'm going to have to do that regardless off a complete strip and rebuild or temporary packing ?. What do people do it the screws are seized solid, drill the heads off ?.
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Post by looey on Apr 21, 2013 18:50:03 GMT 1
If you can live with it over the summer then leave it till the dark cold winter nights. Mine required new valves, bushes, seals & centre joint when I had the same problem - not a cheap job! Yeah that's what I was hoping to do..... just thought if it was the joint clamp creating most of the slack, then I could make it better for a while until I fully strip it but by the sounds of things it will all be fudged..... ;D
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Post by looey on Apr 21, 2013 18:46:30 GMT 1
Do you mean just behind the retailer clip bolt head on the right of the picture the barrel looks split ?. I can see what you mean but just went and wiped it and it was just a lump of crud creating an optical illusion that the barrel was damaged there....phew
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Post by looey on Apr 21, 2013 18:33:36 GMT 1
Yeah I know that's the only way to get it fully sorted properly long-term but I was hoping to just get it just working correctly with no excess play for now.
Is it normally the clamp or the valves that wear, or is there no usual suspect ?.
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Post by looey on Apr 21, 2013 17:45:27 GMT 1
After some advice please chaps, as I've not messed with a YPVS top end before When riding the bike, it's making a bit of a spitting noise from around the exhaust flange or inner power valve seals area and making a right oily mess around there as well. I had planned to just leave it till after this summer's riding to do a top end rebuild, as I'm not too bothered about the oil but now after a closer look today I just can't see how the system can be working properly I've taken a picture best I can (it's dark up there..... lol), so can any trained eyes please have a look and tell me what the crack is. You can see from the picture that r/h bush retaining plate screw is not screwed up tight to the plate, the allen bolt is tight but there's a gap between the head and the plate and the plate just slops about, so I assume the screw that's in there must be too long and hitting the end of the hole before clamping the plate ?. Worse is that the centre connection clamp can be moved back and forth by hand probably 30-40 degrees, so assume that will translate into the left valve moving a similar amount before it takes up the slack and starts to move the valve in the r/h cylinder. There doesn't look to be any gap in the joint halves, so can only assume that either the clamp or the valves themselves are worn ?. Is it more likely to be one over the other ?. Looks also to me like to sort the bush clip bolt and the centre clamp that at least the radiator and exhaust flanges will have to be removed to gain enough access ?. Thanks in advance
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Post by looey on Apr 20, 2013 13:26:41 GMT 1
If the bloke has been drilling at those carbs,then i would avoid Lol, it's a fair point ;D ;D
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Post by looey on Apr 20, 2013 10:39:56 GMT 1
That's good to know,
Do the 2MA carbs fit straight in ?, i.e. fit the inlet and airbox rubbers, throttle cables and choke mechanism ?. Or do you have to change some of that ?.
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Post by looey on Apr 20, 2013 8:47:31 GMT 1
The little ones are fine, they would only restrict flow if they're full of cr*p which you could see if/when they need changing because they are clear plastic.
If you put one of those in-line, then disconnect the line from the carb and open the fuel tap, your tank will empty just as quick as if it wasn't there, so it won't cause any restriction supplying the carbs when running.
I've got them fitted to several bikes here including the tuned YPVS engine and never had a problem.
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Post by looey on Apr 19, 2013 21:03:01 GMT 1
Lol..... it's not me, cos I wouldn't use a mineral 2-stroke oil
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Post by looey on Apr 19, 2013 20:10:00 GMT 1
I know someone who bought a load of it around that time cos Tesco were selling it cheap...... ;D ;D Now we know why....... is was 50% water ;D ;D
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Post by looey on Apr 18, 2013 16:21:24 GMT 1
Furry Muff ;D
Don't know much about em really but seemed cheap.... maybe not...lol
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Post by looey on Apr 18, 2013 16:11:23 GMT 1
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Post by looey on Apr 18, 2013 10:03:18 GMT 1
Hi and cheers for the reply,
It's an R1-Z 250 and haven't bought it yet, though I may if it didn't have this problem or I was fairly sure I knew what the problem is and could fix it.
Do you know what the heater circuit does if the chokes are manually operated by cables ?.
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Post by looey on Apr 18, 2013 8:33:32 GMT 1
Does anyone on here have any experience with the carbs fitted to a R1-Z YPVS 250 ??. I'm told they are the same as a TDR250 but I'm not sure about that ?. Basically I'm looking at buying one and the seller says there's a problem with cold starting (it's a pain in the a*se basically) Now I know on carbs like fitted to the 350LC that have a choke pickup on just one carb, you must get have float bowls on the correct carbs, as only one has the pickup hole drilled through. Well on this bike the owner says each carb has a choke circuit of its own and when he took the float bowls off to have a look, he noticed that neither float bowl had a hole through the pickup point (just blanked off) for the choke. He decided drilled them both with a 1mm drill but this has made no difference. Now either the bike has the wrong float bowls fitted or the choke circuit doesn't work by picking up through the float bowls in this way. I have not seen the carbs stripped myself, so not sure if the bodies have a pickup tube going into the bowl pickup tubes like on the RD350LC. Anyone know how the choke works on these and can advise what the problem might be ??. Moochas
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MAYDAY
Apr 17, 2013 10:34:23 GMT 1
Post by looey on Apr 17, 2013 10:34:23 GMT 1
Oh booo, normally do this but I'm not around this year It's normally the Oakdene Cafe for a fry-up first
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Post by looey on Apr 14, 2013 19:10:41 GMT 1
Why do people even think about using the Post Office or Royal Mail for posting stuff these days ?, it's just madness ?. If you can use Collect Plus (if you've got a drop off point convenient), or interparcel.co.uk (standard parcel service/UPS) if you can be in for the collection, then you won't be paying any more than £4.99 + VAT to post most things and £3.99 for a lot of things. I just posted a 12kg engine boxed up for £10.99+ VAT !. I gave up queuing up at at the Post Office to be ripped off a long time ago
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Post by looey on Apr 13, 2013 22:25:18 GMT 1
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Post by looey on Apr 12, 2013 10:01:11 GMT 1
its got no rear foot pegs ! MOT failure that is.......lol
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Post by looey on Apr 12, 2013 9:32:23 GMT 1
Ok, It's no probs to have a quick look on the shed and tell you what I've got and I'll PM you a price with shipping. It's not a problem either way if you do or don't want them
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Post by looey on Apr 11, 2013 17:01:08 GMT 1
Yeah no problem at all.
Just to clarify.... the clutch part you need is the actual basket with the 2 drive gears on the rear ?.
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Post by looey on Apr 11, 2013 12:48:30 GMT 1
I might have an engine casing and the clutch part if you get stuck ?.
Just let me know if you want and I can go have a look and give you a price.
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Post by looey on Apr 10, 2013 18:22:49 GMT 1
I know the turnout can be cr*p there sometimes but it's a good excuse for a fry-up and the current weather forecast is very good for Sunday A few of us will be going if the weather stays good
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Post by looey on Apr 9, 2013 20:52:37 GMT 1
Have you tried replacements of everything from a running bike ?, that's normally the best way to check everything ?.
As suggested, did you whip the head off and make sure the piston is coming up to the correct TDC ?.
My Mk1 had a dodgy CDi last year (common on the Mk1, dunno about the later models ?) but it would run perfect most of the time then just miss a beat when ticking over occasionally or sometimes hesitate a bit on acceleration. Swappedthe CDi out and it's been perfect ever since
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Post by looey on Apr 9, 2013 17:35:52 GMT 1
We gave up long ago with the Post Office, unless it's a basic letter . We use this company virtually every day. If you've got a drop off point local then you're laughing. Just book it on-line, print the label out (stick it on the parcel obviously), then when you drop it at the drop off point they scan it and give you a receipt. You also get a link to track your parcel from door to door. Jiffy bag is cheapest as £3.99. Oh and it links with ebay, so it knows what you've sold and picks up the address information too . www.collectplus.co.uk/ I just used them to do a parcel but i now have to drive 5 miles to drop it of at a pick of point . However i was gowing out any way so at leat this time its not of my way .. But i may use them again. Yeah, the collect+ is perfect if you have a local drop-off point (I have 2 within a couple of mins walk) and it also avoids the aggro of waiting in all day for collections if you're not usually in during the day. Works better for some for sure
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Post by looey on Apr 8, 2013 18:30:22 GMT 1
Sounds like it could be electrical to me, maybe a weak output from the source coil.
If the spark is weak then they are hard to start but when the revs get up it starts producing a strong enough spark to run better
Had EXACTLY the same problems with a friends Suzuki X7 and after swapping out everything from a running bike, the stator was the last thing left. The complete stator assy was swapped out and it's run perfect ever since.
Just an idea if you haven't tried it already ?.
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Post by looey on Apr 8, 2013 9:18:36 GMT 1
Gonna look cool when you've finished it, proper 80's Old Skool I did enquire about the bike when it was on the bay. It was advertised as a 350LC but when I asked it turned out to be a 250LC ?.
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Post by looey on Apr 8, 2013 8:38:33 GMT 1
And what are the running problems/symptoms ?.
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Post by looey on Apr 7, 2013 13:57:27 GMT 1
Is there another post somewhere that says what your running problems are and what your current setup is ?
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Post by looey on Apr 5, 2013 9:54:52 GMT 1
We've been out on ours couple of times recently. As long as it's dry and not sub-zero we''ll be out. This was a couple of weeks ago stopped for a cuppa
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Post by looey on Apr 3, 2013 18:47:18 GMT 1
You still need to apply for and display a tax disc (so need an MOT & Insurance) but don't have to pay for it. The Budget just moved the date to anything before 1st Jan 1974 I'm hoping they keep rolling the date forward as we'll have 2 bikes eligible next year.
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