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Post by looey on Jan 19, 2022 20:14:41 GMT 1
I've never seen a 350 on a B plate Also only seen original unrestored bikes at that money Only gripe I have considering the work that has been done is the faded red line on the tacho Steve The wife's UK matching numbers 4L0 was first registered new in 1984 on a B plate also. It's been imported to the Isle of Man now and they don't have age related plates, so you can't tell the age of anything by it's registration lol Pretty sure there were a few left lying around showrooms when the YPVS came out.
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Post by looey on Sept 5, 2021 18:28:47 GMT 1
If it's any reference, I sold my white/blue matching numbers 10W Mk1 Swiss import about a year ago for £2,750
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Post by looey on Aug 3, 2021 11:36:33 GMT 1
I've always used a Syringe but always pull the fluid down.
Problem with reverse bleed on anything other than a new spit clean system is, you're potentially pushing crap back up to the master cylinder and the tiny return hole gets blocked easy at the best of times.
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Post by looey on Jun 18, 2021 9:05:23 GMT 1
I learned recently that there's no Ethanol in any fuels on the Isle of Man. Apparently Hygroscopic fluids and small Islands surrounded by a lot of water isn't a good idea
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Post by looey on May 2, 2021 19:21:40 GMT 1
No the FS1E's are correct as they should be. For around 6 months prior to the restricted versions coming in, they produced a DXA (Chappy Red) with the larger plastic side panels and the Blue A (drum front brake). They should have frame numbers 394-200xxx and 394-300xxx if they are correctly framed. Cheers You learn something everyday, prefer the older ones but I guess they are quite a rare model. Andy Yes they are both quite rare due to the limited time they were produced. My Dad purchased a Chappy Red DXA brand new in July 1977 to commute on and gave it to me for my 16th Birthday in Feb 1983. Of course I mucked it up with a Micron pipe and other cr*p lol
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Post by looey on May 2, 2021 11:49:16 GMT 1
The FS1E's are mint as can be but just not right, surely they both (red and blue ffs) both have sidepanels off the restricted bikes, shouldn't have painted trim strips round the seat etc, I'm not an anorak on these things but they would be nicer as full stock early models but £7k The first bike I ever fell off was a puch Grand prix, it was a JPS just like that and it fukin hurt. Andy No the FS1E's are correct as they should be. For around 6 months prior to the restricted versions coming in, they produced a DXA (Chappy Red) with the larger plastic side panels and the Blue A (drum front brake). They should have frame numbers 394-200xxx and 394-300xxx if they are correctly framed. Cheers
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Post by looey on Apr 18, 2021 12:58:52 GMT 1
The Lidl Ultimate Speed's are best value when they come up but they are only 3.8amp, so not really beefy enough for regular car/van battery charging
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Post by looey on Apr 18, 2021 11:15:36 GMT 1
It's a good point, some seem to think it's ok to leave them on trickle charge 24/7 but it does dry lead acid batteries out and definitely shortens the life of other types.
I tend to connect them up every couple of weeks or so, and disconnect them when they show fully charged.
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Post by looey on Apr 18, 2021 9:54:17 GMT 1
I've had Optimate and Accumate chargers for years and within the last couple of years have bought an Ultimate Speed from Lidl and an AutoXS from Aldi (£12.99 each) and they all seem do an equally good job across the bikes, car and even my big van.
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Post by looey on Jan 30, 2021 13:12:07 GMT 1
Hi guys have just completed my 350lc hybrid. Engine standard have had frame wheels swinging arm re powder coated, fitted Yamaha tzr 3ma usd front forks wheel and brakes, fzr400 rear end new Allspeeds and painted tank and panels renthal bars . Tried to keep it looking stock but with modern brakes and handling. Also fitted yss shock. Now restoring a 250lc to standard. Also just selling my other 250lc which has different forks wheels Brenbo brakes , carbon side panels. Renthal bars. And have another 350lc German import in the wings. Thanks for letting me join your group. Don’t know how to add pictures. Welcome, Sounds good but I would've thought if you were trying to keep it looking stock, you'd have gone for rwu front forks ?.
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Post by looey on Dec 31, 2020 12:28:29 GMT 1
If it's an engine oil, simply check if it has a JASO MA Spec, that means it's designed for Motorcycles with Wet Clutches.
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Post by looey on Dec 16, 2020 11:52:04 GMT 1
My grey hybrid is the same. It's had 2 different complete clutch assemblies, was the same before and after another engine rebuild (everything checked and renewed if necessary).
It's also been tried with every different type of oil available as well. We have another LC that everything looks identical, same gearbox oil and it never sticks however long it's left.
My sticks a little even if left for several hours.
Before I start it, I just put it in gear, hold the clutch in and rock it back and forth a few times and it releases fairly easy.
I've decided that it's character lol
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Post by looey on Nov 14, 2020 10:47:11 GMT 1
They are awesome bikes Baz I always wanted one too, finally got one, via ebay. I had to check the date - 8 years ago now ! new forest 2012 009 by dusty miller, on Flickr They can suffer with reg/rectifier melt downs - mine showed signs of problems with that in the past, but I think you can get uprated parts from places like Electrex. Bullet proof engines and more grunt than a field full of pigs !! Enjoy Dusty I love these bike too. I bought this bike from Dusty and had it a few years. I did a Classic Track Day on it at Cadwell, and my only advice is........ don't lol. The biggest problem it its weight, wasn't horrendous in the corners, good on the straights but trying to stop it was nigh on impossible. It had so much inertia that braking from high speeds just induced tyre screech and wheel locking with very little slowing down
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Post by looey on Nov 14, 2020 10:36:47 GMT 1
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Post by looey on Nov 14, 2020 10:34:54 GMT 1
I hate wonky decals, especially the Yamaha word on the fuel tank. I have a picture of my brand spanking new RD125LC in 1983 before I had even ridden it and the Yamaha on the left side of the tank was way wonky and so was the Yamaha on the front fairing above the headlight
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Post by looey on Oct 22, 2020 18:46:14 GMT 1
I think he's moving home, so is off-line at the moment. It was a coordinated effort with Norbo, so you can't by anything at the moment
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Post by looey on Oct 20, 2020 22:15:59 GMT 1
You would think it would've been made the same shape ?. I need a grab rail but not with that shape at the rear !.
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Post by looey on Oct 20, 2020 22:00:47 GMT 1
Looks a bit lumpy bumpy around the rear
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Post by looey on Oct 20, 2020 21:51:05 GMT 1
That's exactly why I do my own servicing when I can.
Just serviced my 2.0 BMW diesel engined car for less than £80 and that included 10L of semi-synthetic engine oil, oil filter, sump washer, air filter and PCV filter.
And new Eicher front discs and pads from Euro's was £51.95 incl. Vat. 30 mins a side to clean, and fit.
Dealers are rip-off merchants
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Post by looey on Oct 17, 2020 14:13:40 GMT 1
Yep, I've got a private plate on my Van, my car and several of my bikes, couldn't give a shiny sh*te what anyone else thinks
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Post by looey on Oct 17, 2020 12:31:06 GMT 1
No, maybe £300-£500 tops if you had to have it
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Post by looey on Sept 27, 2020 9:29:56 GMT 1
Theyve always been like that tho Looey. I dont know if youve ever made them but you put the letters on the background (like big lettraset) and then put the perspex over that, then run it through a mangle to seat it and make sure there is no air in it. Oh yeah I know how they are made. In the IOM we have a car parts shop that make them right in front of you. They've always got some kind of blemish or tiny bubble in them somewhere under close inspection lol
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Post by looey on Sept 26, 2020 13:02:06 GMT 1
Ha, very good . I can squeeze 6 bikes in my LWB Sprinter but it's not funny securing them all to not hit each other or anything else
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Post by looey on Sept 26, 2020 8:20:10 GMT 1
All good advice.
I think the reason the instructions say to drill from the back, is that these plates are just a clear piece of Perspex with a laminate stuck on the back.
So drilling from the back is theoretically pushing the laminate on whilst drilling, so reduces the chances of pushing/breaking it off as the drill comes through.
The last few I've fitted, I've stuck them on with the white car number plate adhesive pads, they are very strong and need the hair dryer treatment to remove them !!!.
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Post by looey on Sept 25, 2020 13:16:54 GMT 1
Something that springs to mind is,.... that you need to be careful from which side you drill. You must drill from the same side the laminate back is on, otherwise it can push it away as the drill comes through. Normally you need to drill from the back side (as the Actress said to the Bishop) Been there
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Post by looey on Sept 24, 2020 17:54:38 GMT 1
I don't get it either.
For the little extra time it takes to get pretty much every drop of old oil out and check/clean the sump plug at the same time, why cut corners like that on an annual job (2yrs in a lot of cases now).
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Post by looey on Sept 24, 2020 14:50:36 GMT 1
I just purchased the 500nm Cabled Impact Wrench, as I'll only use it a few times a year for the odd stubborn nut removal etc. Just tried it on my Sprinter wheel studs (normally use a 3ft breaker bar) and it removed them dead easy . If you did go for the cordless version, it was good to see you could buy extra 20v 4AH batteries for just over £20.
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Post by looey on Sept 22, 2020 9:23:16 GMT 1
Should I be buying a kit from you Dave ? lol I look at it like this; It might be a little more expensive to buy the parts from Norbo or Mutts then somewhere on the internet, but you are supporting the people with the expertise that can't be bought on the internet. If they go bankrupt they will not be available to help you when the shit hits the fan. Yeah thanks, I've been buying most of my LC related parts from Norbo for many years ?.
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Post by looey on Sept 21, 2020 19:58:34 GMT 1
Wish I'd measured before I'd fitted but just fitted an EBC drc043 to my ypvs Made for the banshee which has no rubbers so in hindsight I wish I'd checked if they were wider Comes with frictions, steels and 15% stiffer springs Steve Steve, don't worry those kits I supply have the wider plates in them, so your covered, even if you didn't know before hand - you do now ! Should I be buying a kit from you Dave ? lol
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Post by looey on Sept 21, 2020 11:44:28 GMT 1
Ha ha, This is the kind of thing we do around the Island, nothing's more than 30 mins away.
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