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Post by looey on Feb 7, 2014 18:52:32 GMT 1
No that's her own white one, mine's red with black small can Microns .
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Post by looey on Feb 7, 2014 18:36:27 GMT 1
Yeah I think Novice 2-stroke for as well, as I'll probably be on my slow (ish...lol) X7 again I'm going for the novice 2 stroke too - I've passed your slow (ish) X7 before - mind you - it wasn't you riding it at the time looey LOL , was that the Parade Lap when the Misses was riding it ?.
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Post by looey on Feb 7, 2014 18:20:07 GMT 1
Yeah I think Novice 2-stroke for as well, as I'll probably be on my slow (ish...lol) X7 again
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Post by looey on Feb 6, 2014 15:28:00 GMT 1
It was a slightly painful experience on the track for me last year. I probably do 5-10 track days every year on my GSXR1000 and all at the sharp end of the fast/advanced group. Problem on the X7 was with little ground clearance compared to modern stuff (I ruined my sidestand on the day) and a top speed of 100mph, I was blasted to death on both sides down every straight, then on any occasion I had anyone in front at any corner, they held me up Unless you've got modern 2-stroke performance (or a VFR400 ! lol) you really needed to be in the Novice group whatever your track experience. Be interested to see what groups variations they have this year. I know at the time they said they'd let the VFR crew do a group booking in the 2-stroke group, as they were worried about not filling all the places and loosing money on the cost of hiring the track. Which is sort of fair enough.
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Post by looey on Feb 6, 2014 14:10:11 GMT 1
Deffo up for this again It was the Saturday/Sunday last year, not Friday/Saturday. Do they know what's going on the Sunday ?. And any idea when we'll know what groups/sessions will be running each day ?. It was a great weekend last year but the groups were a little messed up . The 2-stroke group had more VFR400's in it than 2-strokes and the Novices group (which I should've been in on my X7) had all the 2-strokes in it that would've suited my relatively slow X7
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Post by looey on Jan 29, 2014 23:19:01 GMT 1
Yes try the simple stuff first. If you dissconnect the fuel pipe from the carb and check the flow, does is flow fine for a good period of time ?. Are you able to borrow a known good carb from a running bike ?. Stripping the engine needs to be only once you've pretty much eliminated everything else. I had a bike last year that stopped when running perfectly and I tried everything, but that did turn out to be a crank seal
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Post by looey on Jan 29, 2014 20:53:20 GMT 1
That's a classic crank seal failure scenario when the bike runs ok until it gets warm I hope it's not that !
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Post by looey on Jan 29, 2014 17:38:57 GMT 1
I know a couple of people that run L/H RD250LC carbs on their 125LC's but any standard carb, 10W, 12A or 11Y will give pretty much the same results.
Just make sure you get the jetting right for each type of carb.
I've got a 10W Mk1 and have all the different types of carbs and settled with the 11Y running a 170 main. That's with a standard airbox (pipercross element) and custom Micron pipe.
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Post by looey on Jan 19, 2014 15:55:53 GMT 1
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My 4RSE
Jan 17, 2014 20:40:50 GMT 1
Post by looey on Jan 17, 2014 20:40:50 GMT 1
Exactly the same scam
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My 4RSE
Jan 17, 2014 20:34:36 GMT 1
Post by looey on Jan 17, 2014 20:34:36 GMT 1
Yep, only sure way before parting with cash is to view the bike in person and do all the usual checks before parting with any £££.
If it's genuine, he'll have no problem with the bike being viewed.
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My 4RSE
Jan 17, 2014 20:28:07 GMT 1
Post by looey on Jan 17, 2014 20:28:07 GMT 1
Be very careful, there's a lot of fake adverts on there !. Someone I know recently sold a FS1E on ebay, then shortly after an copycat advert appears claiming to be selling the exact same bike cheaply for a quick sale !. In that instance it was reported to ebay and removed but I can only imagine they were after deposits or payments when they didn't have the bike to sell
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Post by looey on Jan 16, 2014 15:55:08 GMT 1
It also depends greatly on how you store the bike over winter.
If you keep it in a damp shed in the back garden, it's majorly succeptable to large temperature swings and moisture that's in the air. In that environment, the bike will from time to time get covered in condensation on the metal parts and also have a much higher risk of water ingress to the fuel (whatever octane).
If you keep them in say a climate controlled integral Garage, then that just isn't going to happen.
I've had several petrol tanks in storage in my garage that are completely dry inside with no protection inside and they are exactly the same inside as they were when I put them in there 4 years ago. If they were in a cold damp shed then that certainly wouldn't be the case.
Whenever I buy a bike, just to be sure I know what's in the tank, I drain out as much of the fuel as I can without removing the tap from the tank, then get it bone dry with a combination of soaking up the last dregs in a corner with some kitchen roll, then hair dryer through the cap hole (be careful not to let the filler cap/neck get too hot) until it's completely bone dry in there.
That only takes 15-20 mins once the tank is removed from the bike, so you could do that a couple of times a year to be absolutely sure no water or cr*p is sitting in the lowest void point.
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Post by looey on Jan 9, 2014 16:28:20 GMT 1
They do look very nice but can't see many owners wanting to pay that kind of money for a swingarm for a 125 ?. And £30 postage ?, I just posted a complete AR80 engine the length of the country (Next Day with UPS) for less that £10 totally agree, not many willing to pay over 25% the value of a bike just for a swinger, no matter how good they look. One of the problems is, that unlike modified 350's and Hybrids etc., the 125's only really start to command good money if they are standard minters, and even then you're only talking around the £2k mark. My matching numbers Mk1 is quite nice now after a lot of work but wouldn't value it at anymore than £1,500 - £1,750, so to spend over £500 on a swingarm just doesn't work unless you've got to have one no matter what the £££ ?.
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Post by looey on Jan 9, 2014 10:42:12 GMT 1
They do look very nice but can't see many owners wanting to pay that kind of money for a swingarm for a 125 ?. And £30 postage ?, I just posted a complete AR80 engine the length of the country (Next Day with UPS) for less that £10
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Post by looey on Jan 7, 2014 22:42:11 GMT 1
Well one thing for sure, it wasn't me !, are you sure its him/her being a local or just you being slow ? , Well I've never been called slow before but there's always a first for everything
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Post by looey on Jan 7, 2014 11:28:55 GMT 1
Yeah will do mate. I've just seen in your status that you've got a GS1200 ?. Had a funny encounter with a local on a GS1200 over the Mountain section last year . It was fairly early in the morning, and as I went around the Gooseneck, I noticed a couple of bikes parked up on the left. Didn't take any notice of them really, just carried on at 50mph until I got to the national speed limit signs, then started to pick up the pace a bit. I then caught a glimpse of a headlight in my Mirror during the first section (I'm pretty paranoid about Mr Plod on his camera bike out there, so don't go stupid) but after a blast up the Mountain mile section it was pretty much out of sight behind. A bit further up I noticed the bike was still occasionally flashing in my mirror at a distance, so decided it was either Mr Plot chasing me, or someone pretty quick that was on it. So I decided that when I got to the Verandah I would slow down enough for whoever it was to pass. Well bugger me if it wasn't a BMW GS1200 on local plates . Having made the decision that it wasn't Mr Plod, I then decided I'd stick behind best I could and follow him the rest of the way to the Cregg. I could easily have blasted away up Hailwood Rise and probably kept in front but he was a bit quicker than me on the tighter stuff that I still don't know that well and he was using every bit of road and pushing the abilities of the bike, so decided I'd let him show me the lines . When we got to the Cregg he pulled over (assume to wait for his friend who was nowhere to be seen), we gave each other a nod and I carried on to Laxey down the back road. I'm guessing being a local and knowing the road like the back of his hand he was sitting at the Gooseneck waiting for non-locals on sports bikes to have a tear-up with Roll on this year
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Post by looey on Jan 2, 2014 13:00:56 GMT 1
Me and the Misses are over for the 2 weeks every year without fail. We're normally tearing about on Suzuki X7's or LC's most of the time but I also take my trusty GSXR1000 for occassional higher speed antics We're all booked and paid up for 2014 and just by coincidence we're renting a house in Laxey this year, as where we normally stay can't accomodate us for 2014 !. I'll keep an eye on this post in-case of a meet-up or BBQ
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Post by looey on Dec 5, 2013 13:23:14 GMT 1
Can anyone confirm that the new PJ1 that meets with current regs is still petrol resistant ?. If it's anything like paint stripper or creosote, they modify it to comply with regs and it doesn't work anymore
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PJ1
Dec 3, 2013 21:05:23 GMT 1
Post by looey on Dec 3, 2013 21:05:23 GMT 1
If you want gloss black then it's Simoniz Tough black every time. Gives a finish like powder coat.
Takes a long time to dry though, sometimes overnight before you can handle it
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PJ1
Dec 3, 2013 11:31:29 GMT 1
Post by looey on Dec 3, 2013 11:31:29 GMT 1
I've not found anything better than Plasti-kote BBQ for exhausts.
But... Plasti-kote also do a "Super Satin" Black, that I've not tried, but would've thought it would be better for casings etc. than exhaust paint ?.
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Post by looey on Dec 3, 2013 11:21:04 GMT 1
I asked about it but they have no space. like most shows you only get in if you did it the year before and before that and so on Is that maybe because you wanted a large (ish) plot for your club display ?. It seems they are still taking private entries as of last week ?.
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Post by looey on Dec 2, 2013 17:49:08 GMT 1
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Post by looey on Dec 1, 2013 13:22:04 GMT 1
Shane, I showed Tracey those pictures and she said......... "there's something wrong with the seat......it' got a crack on it"
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Rd 125
Nov 29, 2013 22:57:52 GMT 1
Post by looey on Nov 29, 2013 22:57:52 GMT 1
UK restricted learner legal 12HP model
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Post by looey on Nov 25, 2013 15:48:57 GMT 1
It'll be a head/head gasket problem, not coolant specific, surely.
I Did 2x top end rebuilds recently after a bit of research but there seems to be a lot of differing opinions about gaskets and sealants etc.
Mine was on a YPVS engine with a metal (multi-leaf) gasket but I've now used the same genuine head gasket twice with the thinest smear of RTV silicone on both sides of the head gasket and had no problems.
Before I filled with coolant, I started the bike and run it for a minute or so until quite warm to touch (not hot to touch), then let it cool to completely cold before a re-torque.
Think Haynes quote 20lbft for the head bolts on the YPVS but I think I did them to 23lbft after reading about.
I know yours isn't a YPVS but it might help a bit
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Post by looey on Nov 23, 2013 12:06:49 GMT 1
All looks very smart But I have to agree the tank looks odd to me with the other panels. When you look at the bike as a whole, instead of one panel at a time, it looks a bit like it's got a black tank on a grey bike ?.
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Post by looey on Nov 20, 2013 13:23:27 GMT 1
Looking at that tank before you painted it, there's a lot of different surfaces going on there, you'd have been lucky for it not to lift or react somewhere without a sealer first Leave the pesky paintwork and get it running I ran my AR50 for a few minutes in one of our bedrooms the other day and it stunk the whole house out for ages Had to open every door and window for about half an hour
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Post by looey on Nov 19, 2013 0:02:38 GMT 1
Yeah motorcycle batteries are pretty volatile. If you don't charge or use them regularly they just die Motobatt batteries cost a bit more but they don't suffer the same fate as easily
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Post by looey on Nov 18, 2013 23:51:01 GMT 1
Doesn't sound good for that battery. Should be at least 12.5v + fully charged and shouldn't drop hardly at all with just the ignition on.
Might be worth charging the battery, then do the same voltage test on the battery with say a bulb or something whilst it's disconnected from the bike to eliminate the bike's wiring from the equation whilst you test the battery ?
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