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Post by looey on Sept 27, 2013 9:06:34 GMT 1
well,it doesn't say rain anymore,just cloudy So what time would you guys be thinking of meetin and where as im sure you cant just stop at the tunnel? Looks like cloudy first thing, then brightening from late morning for sunny spells for the rest of the day No you can't stop at the Dartford crossing. Best bet would be to get off at Junction 1A (just before the crossing) and meet somewhere off there ?.
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Post by looey on Sept 26, 2013 18:01:27 GMT 1
I was thinking of attending but dont wanna ride there on my own cos il get lost Do you think you can find your way to the Dartford tunnel? I could meet you there (dependant on it not pi$%ing down) I'll probably be going if the weather is ok. I'm happy to meet at the Dartford crossing (or somewhere nearby) ?.
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Post by looey on Aug 28, 2013 8:29:56 GMT 1
This is a 1989 2RK model and has the std VM26SS with a 180 main.
It flies at the top of the rev-range with the valve pegged open but has no bottom end at all obviously. But with the valve working it has a good spread of power up to say 7,000 - 8,000 rpm but never gets that same top end power as with the valve pegged open ?.
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Joker
Aug 27, 2013 17:29:17 GMT 1
Post by looey on Aug 27, 2013 17:29:17 GMT 1
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Post by looey on Aug 27, 2013 16:53:19 GMT 1
Yeah mine does run and it's rideable, but it's just like riding a strangled restricted 125 with the valve operating.... lol
The jetting should be fine as Yamaha quote the same for the restricted and unrestriced bikes ?.
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Post by looey on Aug 27, 2013 16:07:24 GMT 1
Hi J, Yeah I have a post running in the advice section for the problems with my YPVS system. It's all wired up properly and everything does what it should but the valve doesn't get to the fully open position until (10,000rpm ish) which is after the bike has run out of puff when riding it. It's almost as if it thinks the bike is revving lower than it is, so the the valve opens later than it should ?
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Post by looey on Aug 27, 2013 15:26:22 GMT 1
Does anyone know if any damage can be done (control unit, ecu, servo etc.) running the bike with the control unit unplugged from the servo ?.
It's actually on a TZR125 but some of the parts are the same as the 350 (29L etc.)
Reason is, mine isn't functioning as it should and at the moment the only way to get full power is to peg the valve in the fully open position or just do an ignition cycle then unplug the servo from the control unit then it stays in the fully open position.
Cheers
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Post by looey on Aug 27, 2013 14:49:54 GMT 1
Well I've come to the conclusion that sommit must be up with either the Control Unit or the Servo itself, or they're just not talking to each other properly.
With it set correctly it can't pull enough revs when being ridden to get to the revs the valve fully opens !. And if I adjust it so it's fully open at around 8,000rpm, it is better but when you get to 10,000rpm the valve has gone past the fully open point, so must be starting to block the lower portion of the outlet track.
I could do with trying replacements but they are as rare as hens teeth so not likely me thinks.
Does anyone know if the YPVS Control unit will be harmed if I run the bike with it disconnected from the the servo at the multi-plug near the Control Unit ? (behind right hand side panel).
Cheers
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Post by looey on Aug 27, 2013 8:29:21 GMT 1
Yeah that's exactly as it's setup. It's almost as if it's all adjusted correctly but the servo just isn't moving it around far enough as the revs rise When you rev it in neutral, the valve doesn't get to the fully open position until beyond the revs it will pull in the gears when you're riding it !!! Peg it in the open position and at 8,000 it goes bonkers.....
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Post by looey on Aug 26, 2013 19:07:25 GMT 1
Yeah cheers for that. When you ride this bike with the valve set as per the book it never gets to rev high enough to get the valve fully open. Maybe I just need to ignore lining the pulley hole with the hole in the block and set it further round ?. Like I said, if I pin it manually in the fully open position (where it stops after the clean cycle) it absolutely flies from 8,000rpm onwards but it's as flat as sh*t with the valve working and never gets to the redline The valve is deffo working, it's just like it opens too late
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Post by looey on Aug 26, 2013 10:33:42 GMT 1
Anyone here an expert on setting up the YPVS on the TZR125 ?.
I've got a 1989 2RK (UK restricted) TZR125 that has has a full YPVS system fitted.
I've done some research and apparently the only restriction on these bikes was the Valve pegged in the closed position and no Servo etc. fitted.
This bike has nice low down power but it just doesn't have the power it should have up in the revs.
I've checked the valve and cable settings and they look spot-on, i.e. does the cleaning cycle and sits in the fully open position with the ignition on and the bike not running, and when you start the bike the valve moves to the closed position and when you rev it it moves towards the open position.
Problem is..... the valve doesn't get to the fully open position until the revs get to about 10,000rpm, which is obviously far too late.
If I remove the cables and peg the valve in the fully open position I get exactly what you'd expect, no bottom end power whatsoever, then good power between 6,000 - 8,000rpm, then it goes ballistic from 8,000 - 10.500rpm.
I've looked at the pulley housing and that has 29L on it which I thought was a 350 YPVS part, or were they the same part numbers used on the TZR125 ?.
The problem I see is the fixed movement of the servo, so if I adjust the valve so it is fully open at lower revs then when the revs get higher the valve will continue past the fully open position and start to block the outlet track ?.
Anyone got any ideas on how to get it setup so the valve is fully open at lower revs ?.
And does anyone know what revs the valve should be open on the TZR125 ?. I have a Haynes manual but it doesn't cover the valve assembly cos it shouldn't have one fitted !!!.
Cheers
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Post by looey on Aug 26, 2013 8:24:59 GMT 1
Problem with 0-60 times, is that it's a great leveller for bikes (unless they all have wheelie bars fitted). The power of a 600 sports bike is about all you can use flat-out from a stand-still, anything more powerful and you've got to feed the power in and do everything you can to stop it doing a loop the loop..... Race a modern 600 sportsbike with a 1000 and there won't be much in it off the line (depending on the rider's skill on the 1000), but race them from 60mph onwards and it's bye bye little 600
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Post by looey on Aug 23, 2013 10:47:46 GMT 1
It is a shame but rules is rules. He knew he needed to have signed on and practiced Wednesday evening to qualify to race.
Think the main reason for NOT bending the rules was cited as being fairness to the other riders who HAD complied with the rules to qualify
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Post by looey on Aug 23, 2013 8:23:13 GMT 1
Or just 10w/30 mineral oil from any Motor Factors.
I use that or Motul Transoil in all our 2-stokes and never had an oil related problems or any clutch slip
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Post by looey on Aug 6, 2013 18:49:24 GMT 1
Looey, I see my old bike was there, have you got the new top end sorted now? Hi Jason, No it's not sorted yet, just won't run properly with the new top end fitted I did get out on track on it but didn't do many laps, as it wasn't running great, so the X7 got a beating all day ..... ha ha ha I've had the original top end rebuilt now, (rebore, new pistons, rings, crack in the barrel welded, all the valves have had there faces built up with weld and re-machined, and sleeves made for the bushed etc. Should have the original top end back on next week, so "hopefully" back to running nice again
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Post by looey on Aug 6, 2013 8:04:33 GMT 1
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Post by looey on Aug 1, 2013 7:20:06 GMT 1
I will be running a 4-stroke in the 2-stroke group in some sessions The reason is because I'm taking 2-stroke and 4-stroke bikes and I've been put in the 2-stroke group and you can't swap about the sessions. It's a big old thing, so I will certainly be cruising around on it getting overtaken by most the 2-strokes.....lol
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Post by looey on Jul 22, 2013 21:59:43 GMT 1
Great result, not always the obvious stuff eh ?.....lol
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Post by looey on Jul 20, 2013 8:24:32 GMT 1
I'd say if you put the top end together and know there's no gloop in there, then probably no. But if you didn't put it together and don't know what's in there, then I'd take the head off and have a look. Won't take long and at least you'll know ?.
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Post by looey on Jul 19, 2013 11:52:35 GMT 1
If you start it from cold with the rad cap off, do you see the water swirl about when you rev it ?. Give you an idea if the pump is pushing the coolant around ?. Another popular one is then the head gasket is covered in gloop when fitted, it squashes out and blocks the coolant channels ?. Is the radiator deffo clear ?. I've had a few that have poor flow cos they are all furred up and partially blocked up inside ?. When they are I block one end and fill em with vinegar for a week or so
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Post by looey on Jul 11, 2013 13:18:19 GMT 1
I love the "may be of use to someone" At £246 you'll be doing more than finding a use for them......
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Post by looey on Jul 11, 2013 7:19:22 GMT 1
Permatex Copper coat HG spray OR Rattle can Laquer (no substitutes ;-)..Clear or the colour of yer choice. It Works.. period. Also ideal for repeated HG reuse.. if..the gasket is of metal. Is that also the same for a YPVS 350 metal head gasket ?. If so, any chance you could put a link up to the exact correct ones of these to use, as I'm just about to try to re-use a genuine head gasket I found the Permatex Copper Coat but I can only find it in the US and they won't ship it to the UK ?. Cheers
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Post by looey on Jul 4, 2013 15:36:59 GMT 1
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Post by looey on Jul 4, 2013 13:07:00 GMT 1
Does sound too rich, as advised by Steve I'd drop down on the main When you do, I'd put the needle position back to standard. Pretty dangerous running with a weakened needle position. I just went and checked the receipt from Taymar.... they were 310 mains Mine had the standard airbox with filter element but it was drilled to death inside with large holes every and also along both sides of the lid ! I have pics of it if you want to see how it was modified ?. Was all done by Taymar as part of the tune and was setup on the dyno. Ran sweet as.
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Post by looey on Jul 4, 2013 11:13:49 GMT 1
Not necessarily. You can always put smaller in if it's too rich but it's a different story if you run it lean. My F2 with Powerjet Carbs and Fast Road Taymar tune ran 330 mains and ran perfect
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Post by looey on Jul 3, 2013 17:11:11 GMT 1
Cracking bike bloody superb in fact, have you just brought it mate as I saw it on ebay few week's ago Yeah got it from ebay two weeks ago , there was no way i was losing the auction }}} Lol, nice one. I watched it until £3,500
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Post by looey on Jul 3, 2013 13:29:32 GMT 1
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Post by looey on Jun 30, 2013 8:27:24 GMT 1
When I bought the carb it came with a 155 main jet. I have replaced that to a 170 main jet as I have changed the pipe reeds etc. I find my bike is a lot faster on the 11y carb than the 10w or 12a and would recommended that carb to anyone. What jet is in yours ? Funny you say that..... I've got a matching numbers MK1 10W bike and I've got an 11Y carb fitted with a 170 main, std airbox (with Pipercross element) and Micron pipe and it goes better with the 11Y carb than either a 10W or 12A carb (both jetted correctly obviously)
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Post by looey on Jun 29, 2013 12:00:34 GMT 1
Excellent - Nice One
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Post by looey on Jun 28, 2013 12:45:26 GMT 1
Speak to Mark G (Raccoon on here).
He's recently done it to his own bike
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