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Post by looey on Jun 27, 2013 9:38:46 GMT 1
I'm booked in for Saturday but will be there from Friday eve through to Sunday
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Post by looey on Jun 26, 2013 8:38:20 GMT 1
Anyone else going ?.
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Post by looey on May 23, 2013 15:22:17 GMT 1
Have you actually removed the needle out of its seat to make sure there's no crud of the actual needle point or the seat itself ?.
It's where the fuel enters the float bowl and often get cr*p stuck there, which would give you the symptoms you've got.
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Post by looey on May 17, 2013 14:02:46 GMT 1
Make it go ;D
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Post by looey on May 15, 2013 19:30:56 GMT 1
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Post by looey on May 15, 2013 12:41:47 GMT 1
Wonna buy my old ones ?......lol
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Post by looey on May 15, 2013 12:35:26 GMT 1
The lower/flatter the bars, the more weight it puts over the front and I find the bike more planted and easier to hussle about with the flats. Renthal Ultra-low are the only other option over standard I reckon. With the higher braced Renthals mine had on it previously, it was like riding a trials bike and makes the front a bit nervous over bumps when you're pushing it. Each to their own though
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Post by looey on May 15, 2013 12:25:09 GMT 1
They were all I had in-stock when I changed them from the high Renthals that were fitted previously and I didn't want to part with any more £££ ;D
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Post by looey on May 15, 2013 12:16:38 GMT 1
I'm not keen on the bars but otherwise that looks really nice. PM coming your way to get the spec...... What do you mean "not keen on the bars" !!! , they are the only bars for a modified old-skool LC ;D ;D
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Post by looey on May 15, 2013 8:43:08 GMT 1
I only felt my forks flex when a car pulled out and I had to slam on, the bike weaved all over the place. That 3ma bike looks ok, but I'm back to my original question does it significantly improve the bike or is it just cosmetic. You can't have done any fast riding with grippy tyres then, as you'd feel the whole bike twisting and squirming underneath you . I've done several track days with completely std chassis and it feels like the bike is made of rubber..... you can feel it flexing everywhere, even at the rear. Stiffer forks, swingarm, better brakes and the ability for fit modern radial rubber makes a massive difference. The LC I've got now (though the engine's sick at the moment ) feels like riding a modern bike when you're pushing it along, 10 times more stable and composed
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Post by looey on May 14, 2013 8:38:38 GMT 1
The seller said they came from a bike that he rode for a few days to make sure all was well in the engine and said it ran "spot on" with 31k carbs and std airbox, so I have to assume for now that something else is wrong or has gone wrong swapping the top ends over. It'll be just me luck that something totally unrelated has gone ratsh*t and will take me lifetime to find/fix If I get to the point of re-fitting the original top end (once it's all been repaired), then I'll probably send them to Mick to see if he thinks there's any reason he can see why it wouldn't run ok. Nightmare....lol
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Post by looey on May 14, 2013 7:22:12 GMT 1
Maybe it's a plug or loose connection breaking down under load That's what I'm hoping/praying for but strange it appears out of the blue at exactly the same time as the top end is swapped out but I suppose something could've been disturbed (a bit like I am lol) I suppose. It's not the spark plugs, as I've changed both
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Post by looey on May 13, 2013 22:30:24 GMT 1
Yeah that's what I said at the end of my first post I will do if I can't get it sorted but one of the barrels is cracked and needs welding, and the bushes have been moving so a sloppy fit now (I'm told you can fit them in-place with silicone) . Not going well this ;D ;D
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Post by looey on May 13, 2013 22:12:03 GMT 1
Did you have the pwk s on before? For my 4lo had to go down on the mains and up on the pilots when I put pwk carbs on Yep, I've only changed the pistons, barrels (with new valves) and head. Absolutely everything else is identical and just swapped from the old to the new, even the temp sender !. It ran pretty nice before but was spitting cr*p all over my boots from the valve seals
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Post by looey on May 13, 2013 22:01:24 GMT 1
Yeah my new ones don't look that different to your Micks Abbey ones there.
It's easy to make them look quite a bit different just with camera angle but they are similar.
Mine has PWK28's running 145 mains, could the tuning be that different that it would run that badly, almost like it has an ignition fault stopping it revving ?.
It won't even rev up in neutral !. Give it a load of throttle and it just missed and farts and sounds awful.
Basically I need to determine if something's happened during the rebuild to upset something that was ok before or if these barrels are totally incompatible with my old setup that it won't run at all ?.
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Post by looey on May 13, 2013 21:43:09 GMT 1
I hope they are not a pair. Bottom one looks massively tuned and top looks like a diy job. No wonder it runs like a pig Steve No they are not a pair....lol. The top picture is ONE of my old barrels which it ran nicely on.... the bottom picture is ONE of the new which it runs like a sack of sh*t on.... ;D Each pair are matched (as far as the eye can see)
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Post by looey on May 13, 2013 21:27:59 GMT 1
Ok, so after stripping the top end on my YPVS engine to find most of it beyond its sell by date, I took the plunge and purchased a compete top end with all new TSS valves that had been removed from a known good runner. I've now fitted the new top end (pistons, barrels with valves and head) but now it runs very badly. Everything else is identical, i.e. just swapped reed assemblies and carbs etc. from old to new. It starts easy and runs ok (ish) and if you pootle about on very light throttle inputs under 5,000rpm you wouldn't suspect anything is wrong, but give it any amount of throttle or try and make it pull through the mid-range and it just stutters, misses, farts and backfires going nowhere fast . I was aware the new barrels were tuned (unkown though) but my old barrels are Mick Abbey tuned and it's running Vforce3 reeds and PWK28's and ran pretty well so wasn't expecting much of a change. Don't have any other pics cos it's all fitted now but just looking at the inlet tracks and ports (see pics below), the new barrels have massive openings compared to the old, so just wondering if anyone thinks this could be causing me the problems with my reed/carb setup ?. If all else fails I'll get the original barrels sorted and re-fitted but I'm hoping this is a silly problem I can fix without rebuilding the top end AGAIN...... lol
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Post by looey on May 10, 2013 16:40:47 GMT 1
10W Head . Even the 10W RD125LC's had a 10V head from the factory. Never seen a 10W head ?
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Post by looey on May 7, 2013 21:22:04 GMT 1
This isn't the answer to your problem, but remember you've gone from a set of Mick Abbey barrels to ?? presumably standard, so when you sort the issue, you may well have to revisit the jetting. It ran like you describe when I first rode it. I ended up junking the airbox & running foam filters, it was the only way I could get it to run right. Yeah I was intending to re-visit the jetting once it had settled in and done some miles, as these barrels look like they are a bit more tuned than the ones I took off, certainly not standard. Thing is, this is all just pootling about on low throttle inputs, so the main jet isn't even in the equation then and like I said it ran ok for the first 1/4 mile then just like someone flicked a switch it started running like crap . The engine has not been out, just coolant drained, rad off, carbs off, pistons removed, new pistons with new small ends and circlips, reed blocks swapped to new barrels, then re-assembled with new genuine gaskets.
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Post by looey on May 7, 2013 19:59:21 GMT 1
Cool thanks for the reply/info, that's what I was hoping to hear . So assuming I don't have head or base gasket issues, then it might not be a strip down again. Can anyone advise what bad running symptoms could be caused by a base gasket leaking ?. Only reason I ask is that when I was riding it, one moment it was fine, then in an instant the engine note changed at it started running like this My other 2-stroke twin is a GT250 X7 but we have 2 in the household. Mine measures 175psi on both cylinders and the other bike 170psi on both cylinders. Cheers again
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MAYDAY
May 7, 2013 14:59:11 GMT 1
Post by looey on May 7, 2013 14:59:11 GMT 1
Don't know how........there weren't many people there ! ;D ;D
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Post by looey on May 7, 2013 10:35:43 GMT 1
Can anyone tell me what the lowest & highest compression figures for a YPVS 350 top end would be acceptable ?. And what would be the symptoms of having very low compression ?. I've basically purchased and fitted a complete replacement top end for my YPVS engine, which previously had completely knackered valves and a cracked barrel, but I've now gone from it running perfectly but spitting oil out of the inner valve seals, to running like a bag of sh*t, spluttering and miss-firing and won't even pull through the mid-range . I took my time putting it together, genuine head gasket, re-torqued after first idle heat cycle etc etc. but it's not very well at all. Setup is identical, carbs, reeds etc. just removed from the old and fitted straight on the new. Did seem ok for maybe the first 1/4 mile being ridden very very gently but then just like a switch was flicked started running horrible There's no visual signs of any problems, no leaks and it's not pressurising the water system or anything. I didn't take compression readings before I took it apart (wish I had now), but the other 2-stroke twin I have has 175psi on both cylinders. This top end is giving 110psi on the left cylinder and 115psi on the right when hot, which doesn't sound very good to me Anyone got any ideas, loosing the fight with this one Cheers
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MAYDAY
May 6, 2013 7:21:42 GMT 1
Post by looey on May 6, 2013 7:21:42 GMT 1
Just to let you know not to wait for us..... We are going, but to Locksbottom first, so we'll be later than you guys. Might see ya down there
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MAYDAY
May 4, 2013 12:51:27 GMT 1
Post by looey on May 4, 2013 12:51:27 GMT 1
I might still be able to do this (or some of it).
Am supposed to be going away Monday morning but I'm trying to re-arrange to leave mid-afternoon rather than in the morning.
I'd be up for meeting at either Locksbottom then maybe talking a run down to the Oakdene, or maybe just to the Oakdene first.....or whatever...lol.
Won't be taking my LC Hybrid I don't think as I've only just got the engine back together and haven't ridden it any distance yet.
Are people still meeting at the Cranbrook Petrol station ?. That's where we met last year isn't it ?.
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Post by looey on May 3, 2013 17:34:07 GMT 1
Yeah I think they must've from new but I'm rebuilding the top end of mine that already had them fitted and the paper gaskets on there are mullered ;D ;D
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Post by looey on May 3, 2013 7:38:55 GMT 1
Cool thanks, I'll make some of my own from gasket sheet I think
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Post by looey on May 2, 2013 17:44:55 GMT 1
What gaskets do people use between the V-Force 3 reed assemby and the barrel on a YPVS, cos the standard metal one doesn't fit over the V-Force reed petals ??. Looks like it used to have paper gaskets there (possibly home-made) but there's none in my full gasket set I just bought ??. Suppose I could make a couple ?. Cheers
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Post by looey on Apr 23, 2013 19:51:24 GMT 1
Yeah I saw them when I didn't know I needed any but now they appear to be out of stock
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Post by looey on Apr 23, 2013 16:48:47 GMT 1
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Post by looey on Apr 22, 2013 18:51:02 GMT 1
Ok thanks for all the advice and observations chap. Yeah it is your old bike Jason, only done 100 miles since I got it ! Got a couple of other bikes in the queue for attention first then I'll get this all apart I will have some more questions for sure
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