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Post by shaunthe2nd on Feb 16, 2024 9:19:56 GMT 1
I had similar on one of my builds and I thought it would improve once the engine was running, but it didn't. Check the bearing on the gear selector, the skinny one on the clutch side. Mine was too tight, I thought it was a genuine one but wasn't. I had to take engine out again and strip all for the sake of a £14 bearing. Once replaced, gear selection was very smooth.
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Feb 14, 2024 17:30:10 GMT 1
Very sad. Was my go to jock to listen to on radio 1 then 2.
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Feb 11, 2024 14:24:19 GMT 1
Self cancel module?
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Feb 8, 2024 23:32:05 GMT 1
Hi All Just helping a mate rebuild his AC 250 engine Got cases back from vapour blasting and got this We think it’s water damage and thinking maybe fill with a smear of JB weld and neatly and carefully dressed back flat with a flat file, as want to avoid welding and re machining What does everyone think or leave and use yammabond on the base gaskets Just not happy leaving as is but feel if I get most of the damage dressed flat and then a small smear of sealant to prevent an air leak all is good and it then not just a bodge job (Going to leak test anyway once assembled) Thanks in advance Best wishes Al Ouch, that's bad Alan. How was it before blasting? do you think its the blast process that was the issue?
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Feb 5, 2024 18:29:12 GMT 1
Thanks for your help shaun , I think I'll look for a donor clock so I have something to work with, I'll be in touch if I have no luck 😉 I'm not sure about the 250B speedo, but the mph versions of the C/D/E/F variants all have a red digit on the odometer, whereas the km ones didn't, which erks some people if they want a 100% correct conversion. Worth checking if this was the case on the B if you want it spot on.
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Feb 5, 2024 13:53:57 GMT 1
The back light is usually effected by the colour of the plastic the facia is printed onto, and in some cases the colour of the actual casing (AC's usually plain galv, LC's white, XS usually light green, some YPVS are black etc) AC clocks are usually fitted with green facia, but I'm not sure if I've done a 250B model before, plenty of C/D/E/F models, and LC/YPVS amongst others. My guess is your tacho and speedo have mis-matched coloured facias.
Best way is to strip both and have a look. Happy to do this for you if its something you not wanting to do yourself.
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Feb 5, 2024 11:49:35 GMT 1
If you want to post me your km gears I can compare and check against my stash to see if I have mph equivalents that I could sell you. There are a number of differences between the various speedos and you usually have to open it up to find what gears are inside. They often change model-model so difficult to predict what is inside sometimes, but my experience is that all the AC clocks I have worked on have shorter gears than LC clocks, its to do with the geometry of the cable entry section. The earlier Nippon Seiko clocks all had steel gears, later ones have mix of steel and plastic, and then later again have all plastic gears.
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Feb 5, 2024 9:21:53 GMT 1
The LC gears differ to the AC speedo gears I'm afraid. The AC ones are normally shorter.
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Feb 2, 2024 22:46:35 GMT 1
Sports car in background in Ben Hur.
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Feb 1, 2024 23:56:02 GMT 1
I've only seen one NOS one come up for sale in 10 years and I bought it and fitted to my bike about 4 years ago. Not seen one before or since. Plenty of good after market options though.
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Feb 1, 2024 23:31:11 GMT 1
You can only do a cosmetic refurb realistically.
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Feb 1, 2024 23:20:39 GMT 1
I'm confused too, so looking forward to finding out a bit more info.
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Jan 31, 2024 23:24:56 GMT 1
I'm sure on the standard loom that male-female connections are always the same colour. There's a black to black 3 pin for the cdi and a white to white 3 pin for the alternator, and its this one that usually burns out. Hopefully someone will confirm as I'm going off memory.
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Jan 31, 2024 21:39:15 GMT 1
I have a couple of well butchered looms I use as donors for my own builds. Many connectors already stripped off, but if I have any of the ones you need I'm happy to help. Just ping me details and pics and will have a look for you.
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Jan 30, 2024 23:25:42 GMT 1
Lol. Let me check my stash for you at weekend when I'm home to see if have anything. Send me PM reminder!
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Jan 30, 2024 22:59:24 GMT 1
Why? I'd either buy a stock 350lc if I wanted a faster 2T or if that wasn't fast enough a stock 600 4T (sorry). I'm puzzled by these type of upgrades as tend to end in disaster! You know I like original.
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Jan 29, 2024 23:29:26 GMT 1
If its been converted, check its been fitted with the 350 oil pump and worm. Otherwise you will get a seizure.
As said above, 4L2-00's are the restricted German 250 carbs. Some claim to have had them converted but as far as I know the air circuit is different size, so very hit and miss. I would be looking at 4L0-01's if I was you, with genuine internals, see my earlier post re standard settings and needles/emulsions. 4L0-00's are very different.
I would check if you have the correct exhausts too, German restricted ones were 4L2's. UK 250 and 350 were both stamped 4L0 but have different internals, and if you have an unmatched pair it could affect the running. 250's had 6 internal holes from memory, and 350's had 8. Use the search facility to find previous posts on the 250/350 exhaust differences.
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Jan 29, 2024 0:19:04 GMT 1
Hi and welcome.
It could be a few things I think.
What are the refs stamped on the sides of carbs? The Stock settings for 4L0 01 carbs with std exhausts are:
Emulsion tubes type 345-P-2 Standard needles type 5K1. Fitted 3rd clip down. Main jets 220 Pilot jets 22.5 Air screw set 1.5 turn out Float valves set to 21mm
I think a lot of people go up to 240 mains with Microns, but hopefully someone will confirm. The Yambits carb kits can be suspect, so if you can get hold of gen Yam/Mikuni carb internals that's a better starting point.
A classic problem with old carbs and new fuels is dirt and crap in the air correction circuits. Have you done the 'balls out' carb clean? It's an easy job and helps with running. Another is getting the float bowls wrong way round, the choke one has the little hole, but you indicate you have checked that.
Another quick check I've done in the past is to switch plug caps L-H to see if problem goes with it. If remains as before, its not electrical. You can also switch the carbs L-R and use a long choke connector pipe to see if switches, if so its the carbs.
Good luck with it, will be something simple.
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Jan 28, 2024 21:56:53 GMT 1
So sorry to hear this, and wish you well. Thanks for sharing, it makes you realise how vulnerable we are at our stage of life. Stay strong and good luck.
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Jan 27, 2024 10:20:03 GMT 1
It's pretty straight forward, only tricky bit is lifting the spring return in the pulley enough to release the cable without withdrawing the spring fully out and allowing it to ping out. I'm not aware of a video, but its covered well enough in Haynes from memory.
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Jan 20, 2024 11:55:59 GMT 1
The speedo doesn’t appear to be working on the video, could be disconnected?, could be a cable?, could be expensive!. Doubt the speedo is disconnected. The pics show a mileage of 49612, but the video shows it at 49614 miles, so it is spinning up the odometer, but not the needle. Likely to be a problem inside the speedo clock. Could be siezed internal bell/spring, most likley needs replacement mechanism. I can sort for the buyer if need be. The bike is a bitsa though, but could be made into something more original and/or tidier with a bit of effort.
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Jan 18, 2024 23:33:59 GMT 1
He's using the advert to trawl for parts sales. Make him an offer if you want the full bike. Probably get for a song.
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Jan 18, 2024 23:10:02 GMT 1
Ready to race almost Rob I reckon!
Maybe finger tighten up the 2nd nut and good to thrash.
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Jan 17, 2024 20:46:54 GMT 1
Sad day! Sometimes you need to do it though. Enjoy the next build.
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Jan 17, 2024 9:23:30 GMT 1
Great intro to your bike - you got a bargain at 1000 Euro, as it looks complete. We are lucky to get frame and engine cases for this money in UK!
Some great work there, I admire your skills. Good luck with the build, keep us posted and look forward to reading more.
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Jan 16, 2024 21:09:21 GMT 1
You can get decal overlays for the centre section once the old writing has faded/disappeared, but seldom look good when fitted as usually bubble or crease.
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Jan 16, 2024 16:29:17 GMT 1
Yes warmed up then kicked over with throttle wide open. Looking like engine out and barrels off for inspection Then probably looking for a rebore in North yorkshire somewhere Muttsnuts territory!
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Jan 15, 2024 21:02:33 GMT 1
Don't drive too far with those test ones fitted!
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Jan 15, 2024 15:37:49 GMT 1
I think front of the tank sits on top of the front round guide rubbers rather than cupping either side of them, so front is too high and twisted. Probably also wht tank to panel gap is too big. Might just need repositioning.
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Jan 13, 2024 17:55:03 GMT 1
I'm not sure what engine builders are charging these days, probably £200-300 ish, and then expect to spend between £1000 to £1300 on parts/rebore etc if my last few rebuilds are to go by.
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