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Post by shaunthe2nd on Jun 21, 2021 15:12:28 GMT 1
Unless you live Northern Ireland.
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Jun 20, 2021 19:32:10 GMT 1
Dave sounds like it's been a tough few months but sounds like you have the priorities right. Hope things get better for you over next few months and I get chance to catch up with you when you have time to boil the kettle. Stay strong. Shaun.
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Jun 20, 2021 12:11:14 GMT 1
I used some self adhesive stuff off eBay. About £14 for 300mm X 600mm. Plenty of sellers doing it.
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Jun 20, 2021 11:21:07 GMT 1
I've just done it on mine even though I'm running stock pipes. For what it costs it gives some extra protection to my new expensive paint job!
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Jun 19, 2021 18:24:41 GMT 1
Welcome. Agree with Steve the mirror stems were black. Lower part of yolk was also olive, as we're engine mount plates.
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Jun 18, 2021 17:03:27 GMT 1
Does anyone know what part you need to swap to convert the speedo drive to MPH? Is there a part from any other bike that interchanges? I re-faced my gauges but they are still reading about 7mph faster than actual.... Also either the speedo or tack is making the whining noise.. any tips for resolving this?? These 40 yo clocks are not that accurate I'm afraid. I've stripped and converted lots, and always check the speedo at 2 or 3 known drill speeds, before and after converting. Unfortunately they seem to differ sometimes by quite a bit, and I mean unopened original clocks differ against each other, so don't take mph readings too seriously. As Steve says, you need to replace 2 off gears within the housing, one off vertical, one horizontal to convert the odo to read in miles. I can do it for you if your stuck, just send me a PM. With regards to the whine, I'd remove both cables and lubricate them, and also apply a smear of Molybdenum Grease inside the speedo and tacho cable connectors.
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Jun 17, 2021 22:53:29 GMT 1
E0 would be much better. Ethanol seems to mess with old fuel tanks and fuel pipes. As far as I know LC engine still cope, somehow. These bikes were designed in the old leaded fuel days, as were a lot of old classic bikes and cars. They should provide a safe alternative fuel in my opinion to help maintain our old traditions and vehicles.
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Jun 17, 2021 20:47:34 GMT 1
On my lower range one the square drive pushes through the head to the other side so can torque left hand threads I'm sure I'll find that really handy if I ever need to torque one, it's never happened yet Steve Great capability, but not needed by me yet either. I will message you if I need to borrow it though.
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Jun 17, 2021 20:45:01 GMT 1
I use 2 also and find that many of the LC torques are top end of one and bottom end of the other so a one stop LC torque wrench would be fantastic!
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Jun 16, 2021 20:21:07 GMT 1
They didn't fit very well, or you didn't fit them very well? what went wrong if so It's a double contoured tank, so assume it's going to be a pain in the ### going to be doing one myself soon (I think) How hard can it be Ridiculously hard to get right. Not worth trying. Go to an expert. Image Works don't charge you for fitting. No brainer for me!
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Jun 16, 2021 19:16:59 GMT 1
Agree with above. It's not worth trying to fit them yrself as very difficult and stressful. Book a supply and fit with Image Works for low cost, high quality, low stress solution.
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Jun 16, 2021 12:53:30 GMT 1
Bugga, was hoping to get to the one end of July.
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Jun 16, 2021 9:56:53 GMT 1
Just a quick update. Oil pump has been bled and no longer running on premix. Head bolts re-torqued. Coolant added. Had a couple of leaks I had to sort, usual problem using old hoses and original clips. Hopefully sorted, but will keep an eye out for weeps. Now starts easily, and ticks over nicely, not too smokey. Went up and down the gearbox a couple of times and seemed ok on the bench.
Was going to bleed brakes, but realised I needed some new brake fluid. My local Halfords doesn't stock DOT3 so ordered on line. I'm off on holiday so a job for my return, but nice feeling to go away knowing I've got a runner to return to.
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Jun 15, 2021 22:03:18 GMT 1
Is it possible the valve is upside down?
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Jun 15, 2021 20:36:08 GMT 1
I had the same problem. If I remember correctly whilst the barrel end is marked '1' and '2' I think the servo end is 'I' and 'II'. In my enthusiasm I thought that 'II' was 1 and it wasn't! Took me a while to figure out.
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Jun 15, 2021 15:00:13 GMT 1
Gave the bike a wash and fitted my New “Master Cylinder Fluid Window” ,, as supplied by Alan Kelly,, fits perfect I can now actually see through it 😂 cheers Al ! 6DA9753A-FDB7-406B-A477-EA23E1DF065D by [url=https://www.flickr.com/photos/189685520@N03/ I've bought a couple too. Did you have to remove from handlebar and fully drain down the brake fluid, or was you able to do it whilst fitted and just lowering the fluid level?
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Jun 14, 2021 7:32:04 GMT 1
I've rebuilt and owned quite a few early LC's and never had a problem with the CDI on them. I have had to replace the odd regulator though. The 31k CDI is a different story though and they seem to have reliability issues. I've just had to locate a 29k-50 cdi for mine, and on looking around, it seems that those are troublesome.
In answer to your question though, no I haven't used those replacements. Hope you get sorted.
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Jun 13, 2021 22:28:57 GMT 1
Great result. I'm a good speller, usually, but rubbish at typing, so get similar results. Who cares? Not me. Keep posting.
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Jun 13, 2021 21:49:37 GMT 1
Thanks for all the help with the CDI, had several offers one of which I took up. And great news...... it starts.... I'm like a proud father! 2-stroke in the bores and 25:1 premix hence all the smoke, but it runs after years of abandonment and a rebuild. Genuine tears.
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Jun 9, 2021 21:55:18 GMT 1
Shop currently showing £10.04 each, was just over £9 when I looked a few weeks ago. I guess the e.clips and postage has upped your cost, but worth it if it solves your problem, and you know they are genuine.
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Jun 9, 2021 12:10:00 GMT 1
I usually make a list of parts I need before I even start the build as it can take 6 months to source everything. Even then, during the build things pop up you didn't think of or thought the part was ok. I often end up buying 2 or even 3 of things though and only realise when I start the build phase, not because I'm greedy, just because I'm forgetful!
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Newbie
Jun 9, 2021 8:56:19 GMT 1
via mobile
Post by shaunthe2nd on Jun 9, 2021 8:56:19 GMT 1
Welcome to the forum and good luck with the build. Dusty has given you some good pointers for spares but you will still have to use eBay at some point. There is a for sale and wanted section you can reach after 10 posts and that may help too. It costs you nothing to put up a wanted post and you may get some response on here as many if us prefer to trade here amongst enthusiasts rather than the eBay sharks. Good luck with it and post up plenty pics.
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Jun 8, 2021 22:10:07 GMT 1
Steve, many thanks, I will PM you.
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Jun 8, 2021 21:59:29 GMT 1
oops messages overlapped, sorry
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Jun 8, 2021 21:58:31 GMT 1
Is it not just a case of reversing the red/green on the stator and the black white kill switch connects direct to the red cdi wire Is it not all on Norbo's website Steve Steve, When you say Norbo's website, do you mean his shop? I've been half offered a 52Y cdi to try out on my 31k LC2 which has a duff 29K-50 cdi, but my cdi has 9 wires/3 plugs but the 52Y only has 8 wires, and as I don't want to modify the borrowed cdi was just trying to work out if its possible to try it on my bike?
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Jun 8, 2021 21:44:43 GMT 1
You did well. I was at Newark and was amazed at how many private stalls there was. Bought a few bits for garage, only LC stuff I got was a UK headlight and an NOS kidney clock under case for a YPVS kidney clock. Not as cheap as yr bargains though, but still happy.
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Jun 8, 2021 21:02:48 GMT 1
I'm not on FB but am interested in this too as been half offered a 52Y to test in place of my non working 29K cdi. Anybody provide details to a non FB user?
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Jun 8, 2021 20:25:58 GMT 1
About £9 each for genuine so if any doubt just change them. Not worth the worry.
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Jun 8, 2021 14:23:12 GMT 1
My sidepanels are marked '4L0 80' on inside, so I'm assuming yours are after market as can't see that in your pics.
Can't make my mind up about the tank, it looks to have slightly sharper angles but I think that is probably due to the lighting and lack of decals. A picture of the underside may be more telling.
TBH I wouldn't worry too much unless you are going all to make as original as possible.
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Jun 8, 2021 10:41:18 GMT 1
I am sure this can all be resolved in an adult, mature and sensible way. Dance off? Morris Dancing with sticks and bells should do it.
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