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Post by shaunthe2nd on Oct 7, 2021 19:28:52 GMT 1
+3 on that. 5 min job.
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Oct 7, 2021 12:23:37 GMT 1
Not seen a video of this but quite straight forward. I think Haynes covers it well enough from memory.
Personally I would take the barrels off at same time, to clean the old head gasket off both surfaces whilst preventing debris entering lower engine. I would change base gaskets at same time usually. Stuff clean rags around the crank to prevent dirt ingress whilst barrels are off.
Just take your time. Good luck with it.
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Oct 6, 2021 12:41:06 GMT 1
Top job, another one sorted.
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Oct 5, 2021 21:21:09 GMT 1
Nice video. Most of those 250LC's were over £10k if my calcs are correct. More expensive than UK for a 250. I wonder if they get hung up over imports lol.
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Oct 4, 2021 21:23:37 GMT 1
Well done, looks nice. Enjoy.
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Oct 3, 2021 21:09:39 GMT 1
It might be better if you post in the 'for sale' section. GLWTS.
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Sept 30, 2021 22:45:31 GMT 1
The bike is splendid, I ride the same model as you, do you have the reference of the front seal caliper ? Thank you. Thank you, glad you like. I don't think that the seal is separately listed by Yamaha. I bought mine from Norbo's shop, just email him through this site and he will sort you out.
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Sept 29, 2021 19:25:42 GMT 1
Sussed. 😁
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Sept 29, 2021 18:42:05 GMT 1
My GF always says that ^^^^^ about the jars she makes me open!
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Sept 29, 2021 16:45:19 GMT 1
Something wrong with the headlight/nose cone/clocks fitting or bracket. The top of the clocks should sit below the nose cone plastic and shouldn't be seen through the screen, and headlight shouldn't be recessed by 30mm+.
Weird but probably fixable.
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Sept 29, 2021 15:15:29 GMT 1
My mantra is if it's not broken don't fix it. I would only strip top end if it's rattly or low on compression otherwise leave it. If you do the top end, then check the crank and big end play when it's off and only then make yr decision. For unknown engines I do a full strip but as you had this bike for a while and it's running well then what makes you think it needs a rebuild?
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Sept 28, 2021 20:23:54 GMT 1
After at least 12 years they probably due a good clean and service over the winter. I'm miles away unfortunately, but hopefully someone closer will help.
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Sept 28, 2021 8:43:38 GMT 1
Yamaha original black pipe and clips is the way to go. Still available and fairly cheap for the peace of mind.
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Sept 27, 2021 22:38:57 GMT 1
I have heard stories of people disconnecting and swivelling 90 degrees to get to the pilots, but I always remove the carbs. If they not been off for a while I'd also consider removing the brass balls and cleaning the air correction circuit at same time. Causes all sorts of running problems. Plenty of info on here about that if you do a search.
Changing/cleaning the jets isn't difficult, cleaning the air correction circuit a bit trickier but doable. If you are not confident, then send them off or see if someone local is happy to help you out. Where are you located?
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Sept 27, 2021 14:35:07 GMT 1
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Sept 26, 2021 22:27:20 GMT 1
Is this stalking?
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Sept 19, 2021 22:54:54 GMT 1
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/294407584074?hash=item448c0f394a:g:WxgAAOSwNh1hR2TNI don't have a picture myself but if you look at this loom on eBay you can see the temp gauge wire spur at LH side just below the 5 connectors that sit around coil on the bike. It has plastic cover for protection. The other single spur in this area is the earth wire with O connector at end but that connects to one of the coil fixings to frame.
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Sept 19, 2021 21:51:57 GMT 1
Generally agree with above, was a later Yam mod to provide extra swing arm bolt lube.
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Sept 19, 2021 14:33:01 GMT 1
A coil cover was supplied when new, I think it's main purpose is to protect the connectors in that area from the weather and to give a clean appearance. It's not an essential part unless you want originality. Not cheap or easy to find although someone on here is now printing 3D copies and puts them on eBay.
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Sept 19, 2021 7:10:11 GMT 1
Unless you unwrap the loom I'm not sure you will find the temp sensor wire in the clocks easily. Best to take tank and coil cover off and look for the spur from the loom in that area, usually close to the coil. It may have been cut. Good luck.
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Sept 16, 2021 22:49:43 GMT 1
Do we win a prize if we guess the bike and year?
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Sept 11, 2021 19:02:33 GMT 1
No from the loom. The clocks inc temp guage connect to the loom via multiconnectors inside the headlight.
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Sept 11, 2021 15:08:11 GMT 1
Hi all, I've just been removing rad to test if leaking and found that there is nothing going to tempeture sensor, can anyone help me, what is the colour of wire which should be connected to it, and where does it come from to sensor, does this come straight from the back of the clocks on the temp gauge, Will I need to remove the clocks or can this be done in situe, all help thanked, stay safe everyone. You should see a single cable with a flat spade connector coming down from the loom from just under the tank area unless your loom has been cut. From memory its a brown/green cable in a black sleeve.
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Sept 10, 2021 17:21:37 GMT 1
A lot of us are not on Facebook I'm afraid. Hope you get sorted.
FWIW I have a rattling baffle in one of my exhausts on my 4L0 and cant wait for it to coke up a bit and quieten down. Not sure if your noise is similar, but its annoying.
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Sept 10, 2021 8:28:22 GMT 1
I keep my LC on one of those dollies. I have built a garage within my garage for it. Its full garage width, but only about 1m deep, and has its own roller shutter door. i use the dolly to load and turn bike 90 degrees and push up against the end wall. I can still park my car in the rest of the garage. Its a nice bit of kit.
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Sept 8, 2021 13:20:11 GMT 1
Sorry if confused you with the plugs/caps, but Rob clarified. From what you have said, I'd definitely be getting my balls out, very common problem and not difficult to remove/clean/replace if you take your time.
Make sure carbs are balanced and quality brassware used too.
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Sept 7, 2021 23:20:57 GMT 1
.... and have you the correct plugs and plug cap? One has to be resistor type, the other not.
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Sept 7, 2021 23:19:18 GMT 1
Welcome to the forum.
No doesn't sound normal.
Some questions for you: Is everything else stock? (exhausts, air box, air filters etc) Did you remove the brass ball and clean the air circuit in the carbs? (plenty of info on here if you use the search function) Did you use genuine carb brassware? (Some rubbish copies out there) Have you balanced the carbs?
Probably something simple, but tracking it down can be tricky.
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Sept 7, 2021 10:07:53 GMT 1
Cheers all, I thought red was the fastest lol No that's the white/blue ones. See you get plenty of accurate free advice on here, you will enjoy the forum.
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Sept 6, 2021 22:17:41 GMT 1
Brilliant Alan, another useful part, especially after my 'accident' today.
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