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Post by Tobyjugs on Oct 29, 2021 4:49:41 GMT 1
bare mentioned an R6 cable a while back as a good replacement, I cant remember if I ever got one to try tho. Yes, I've used his reccomendation and it worked very well, not sure if it was R6 or Fazer. I've also tried the cable making parts from Venhill. The Yamaha cables are still superior. I know prefer to alter a Yamaha cable to fit the application.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Oct 23, 2021 12:19:45 GMT 1
What about Q plates?
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Post by Tobyjugs on Oct 21, 2021 18:28:03 GMT 1
Ok now I understand it. To me it looks a bit like a crankshaft seal.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Oct 21, 2021 14:46:20 GMT 1
Hi John I was thinking about another part.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Oct 21, 2021 4:09:23 GMT 1
Not sure exactly which part your talking about but if that part is the square rubber why don't you make a square mould a and make some using two component rubber or polyurethane mixes.
I used to do the same. I would use contact glue and make bushes for fixing radiators etc by sticking layers of old Land Rover inner tubes together. The last couple of times I've made very basics moulds and used a special 2 component rubber. Not sure of the name i save what is left over from jobs that I do.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Oct 19, 2021 14:47:56 GMT 1
Try looking at the Heideneu tyres. I've heard they're sticky but not sure if they are road legal.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Oct 17, 2021 20:00:51 GMT 1
Hi Mark i couldn't really follow you choke plan until i saw the last picture, then the muddy waters cleared. I think it look visually very imposing. Luv it
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Post by Tobyjugs on Oct 17, 2021 19:55:17 GMT 1
Your still the King. A fantastic build
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Post by Tobyjugs on Oct 12, 2021 12:27:43 GMT 1
What a lovely bike!
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Post by Tobyjugs on Oct 10, 2021 14:48:34 GMT 1
Yes, I will play it safe - better safe than sorry;). But I was qurious, as I read this article when it was first published, and at that time I didn't have any references for these engines regarding squish. Since then, I didn't read any post in this forum or elsewhere, recommending such low squish. It would be interesting to hear the experiences of those who made these modifications. I have seen some nice internet links to tuning books etc. These are good to read to get a general all round idea of how an engine works with explanations about squish, combustion volume, exhaust lengths etc.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Oct 9, 2021 20:52:03 GMT 1
Nice one Matt
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Post by Tobyjugs on Oct 9, 2021 20:47:40 GMT 1
Fantastic
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Post by Tobyjugs on Oct 9, 2021 20:38:38 GMT 1
This is why I rant on about compression ratios. You can have a small squish height if the compression ratio is good. I would just say Smoke stick to 1.2 mm or get it all done professionally by a reputable tuner. It's all the ingredients added in the correct amounts that make a great cake
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Post by Tobyjugs on Oct 6, 2021 15:13:45 GMT 1
depends what you mean by high power engines and more importantly what they are being used for For road use then the hotrod cranks with normal main bearings are fine, got lots of engines out there doing 1000's of miles with no issues that are pushing 70+bhp For competition use e.g. 1/4 mile/drag racing, track day use then certainly going to 10 ball bearings helps, but then you ideally need to consider C4 or even C5 clearance, rather than the stock C3, but again, how much power and how hard are you riding it - is your budget big enough to afford a strip down every other meeting etc - it won't be the crank you'd need to think about first if that's the case, it would be pistons/rings/bores etc If running straight cut primaries, then you really need the roller bearing/TZ style main bearings as they will take the high load much better than a standard main bearing - but again how much power and torque are we talking There are very few engines out there in normal use pushing much more than 90+bhp, my own RS421 pushing 100bhp and used on the road is using a 4mm stroked hotrod crank with C3 clearance 7 ball O ringed main bearings, its done well over 1000 miles with no issues and that's mixed riding including a few track days. My mito which pushes 109bhp uses a 7mm stroked crank with TZ style bearings (C3 clearance) and thus far has been very reliable (other than a 100mph crash) ! My mates bike pushes 115bhp, that is using a 10mm stroked crank with 10 ball (larger cage) bearings, again C3 and has been very reliable, but the bearings etc have also been treated in a low friction coating. Going ceramic is a really good idea, but also very expensive and unless you have deep pockets, or are looking at serious power, say 140+bhp, then you'd have to question the benefits, or you are a very fast/hard rider on the track, for road use I'd say ceramics is overkill, but each to their own, I'd love ceramic bearings in all my engines, but I can't afford or justify such expenditure HTH Thanks for the detailed answer.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Oct 6, 2021 12:36:14 GMT 1
If you go to Nova gears web site I think they list all the ratios. You should be able to see the differences between a 4LO and YPVS
I had a clutch failiure which meant opening the box up. My gearbox is a mix of YPVS and banshee. Whilst the box was open I examined the gears and selector arms and everything was good. Do you can use them. I am a big fan of the long first banshee gear.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Oct 6, 2021 12:32:37 GMT 1
I did the same as Rob above. I first pressed it into the kickstart piece and then into the basket. I made a drift/tool which presses the old bush out and the new one in at the same time. I've never had to use heat.
The original bush is magnetic. Probably copper coated steel. Not really sure about the construction.
If it isn't magnetic I wouldn't trust it. I don't know what the clearance is supposed to be but it should be a little loose for the oil film.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Oct 6, 2021 12:16:28 GMT 1
You can check all the ratios from both engine types. I listed them in my Bakker 443 thread. Must be around page 4.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Oct 6, 2021 12:09:00 GMT 1
That's good to know Dave, but what are your opinions on the comments above. You must have more experiance than all of us put together.
In a high output engine i would stay away from steel caged bearings. I have also seen first hand how strong a ceramic ball bearing can be. Jaw dropping tough.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Oct 1, 2021 22:43:00 GMT 1
I'd have thought it's maybe badly worded and just uses the complete bottom end internals other than the crank Is an r6 not like an r1 and the cylinders are part of the crankcase? Steve Yes, everything is very compactly designed, the bottom of the sump bolts to the block with the cylinders. To release the crankshaft you have to loosen this.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Oct 1, 2021 22:35:20 GMT 1
As far as i know they are all the same size and block the holes as mentioned above
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Post by Tobyjugs on Oct 1, 2021 22:11:42 GMT 1
Fantastic Paul.
At our time in life it should be about fun
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Post by Tobyjugs on Sept 22, 2021 10:17:05 GMT 1
I don't think the radiator type above is that good. It struggled to cool my 70 pk bike in warm weather. I now fit wind deflectors in HOT weather and i modified the small de-aeration line to a 2mm diameter hole. I have one from Norbo which doesn't look so nice as this radiator but it works very well. Same the mbd/gmx didn’t work as good as I thought it would. Looks pretty to the eye mind. Perfect for a show Bike. Is your radiator connected to a 4L0 engine or a YPS engine?
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Post by Tobyjugs on Sept 22, 2021 7:32:56 GMT 1
I work in dark cramped places a lot. Led Lenser is a good choice and from what i understand a high end product. There is another brand which is my favourite as it is a little smaller in size for its light range. It's the Fenix HM65R (it's Chinese).
Also you can buy flat panel type lighting which is rechargeable. They are similar to the shape of a tablet and can be fixed on a stand or magnetic base. These give a lot of soft light and are also multipurpose.
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LC 350
Sept 22, 2021 7:12:53 GMT 1
Post by Tobyjugs on Sept 22, 2021 7:12:53 GMT 1
I dont think the radiator type above is that good.
It struggled to cool my 70 pk bike in warm weather. I now fit wind deflectors in HOT weather and i modified the small de-aeration line to a 2mm diameter hole.
I have one from Norbo which doesn't look so nice as this radiator but it works very well.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Sept 20, 2021 7:14:41 GMT 1
I understand your problem.
The carbs will probably hit the chassis rail, you need single rubber inlets, short as possible. I have two, i'm not sure where they came from, Possibly a TZ750?.
The billit manifolds are normally constructed from two pieces, if you junk the front part i think they will still be too long. Get in touch with Fondseca they might be able to help out.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Sept 18, 2021 11:54:01 GMT 1
. I'd love to see that televised present day with the way people think now
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Post by Tobyjugs on Sept 18, 2021 11:51:04 GMT 1
One for Tobyjugs to comment on me thinks? Jon Your Damn right about that! Such a lovely bike. All the time and money spent on creating it and then forgetting the side stand. Or is this propped up for the photographer to make better pictures? (I hope)
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251LC
Sept 18, 2021 11:47:13 GMT 1
Post by Tobyjugs on Sept 18, 2021 11:47:13 GMT 1
Hi Jon just clean the top of the liner well and get some crack detector spray. You will soon see if it's a crack or not. Easy enough to find the spray if you know some welders.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Sept 15, 2021 2:43:00 GMT 1
Bare is correct, i had an engine with all sorts of of mods and TSA pipes it made 62 pk on the dyno. I then changed the pipes for standard LC pipes and rejetted to suit and the bike made 48 PK.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Sept 14, 2021 9:23:54 GMT 1
Are you In New zealand?
I only know Norbo and Muttsnuts in the UK and PS Tuning in Holland. If you get in touch with any of these people they will be able to reccomend you a unit to suit your needs.
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