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Post by Tobyjugs on Dec 5, 2021 22:09:39 GMT 1
Personally i prefer the High Performance Booster Pipe. This out performs the Boost Bottle at high rpm's and is very light. The one shown in the picture was expensive, but it's made from a carbon/kevlar plastic polymide. If i didn't know that i would think it was a piece of garden hose.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Dec 5, 2021 21:45:21 GMT 1
nice one , glad to see your still pushing on with the beautiful Bakker bike mart Hi Mart the Bakker project is still prority 1.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Dec 5, 2021 21:42:14 GMT 1
...and there is room in front of the rear wheel for a NOS bottle.... Very true Rob but i think Tim has got a point with the Cafe Racer culture. They wouldn't appreciate a nos bottle, i will be better accepted if i fit an expresso machine in that space.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Dec 5, 2021 9:59:17 GMT 1
That swingarm looks nearly as long as an RGV one.... ;-) Thanks i was worried it might look too long
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Post by Tobyjugs on Dec 5, 2021 0:14:20 GMT 1
I like the swing arm
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Post by Tobyjugs on Dec 4, 2021 23:59:27 GMT 1
The Bakker project is still going ahead but basically i'm waiting to run it on the track to do some shake down tests etc. Also i have turned my attention to making and modifying the engine components to be lighter. The 8 friction plate clutch is working without problems. Not much to show for that one, its nice to have a nice standard clutch action that handles around 70 PK. After maybe 2 years I'm finally in a position to try out my MK1 dry clutch (not made by me personally, it has been two different people). Its fitted to a test enginge for trials on the road to see how it performs/leaks . Hopefully tomorow or Monday it will be up and running. Its running 2.53:1 primaries and the standard RD water pump set up. I can run the oil pump in theory as i have also got a gear wheel for the normal oil pump. Just need to get in touch with Gary for the fine details of oil delivery if i decide to use this option. It has been made for the Bakker project but can be used on a road going YPVS engine if wanted. You can see that the clutch is totally surrounded by the engine casing. I will probably cut a large proportion of this away to aid cooling and to stop clutch plate dust building up. I have no experiance of dy clutches so it will be a case of suck it and see. This engine casing is in nice condition so this one will stay as it is. Ive also made jigs and tools to easily make another dry clutch casing and will use one of my mullered casings to make the stripped down version for the Bakker project. Another ongoing project is a slightly longer swing arm to help keep the nose of the RD on the ground during sprints. Made for the Rotterdam Dirt Event. Now ftted to the bike and waiting for a better back wheel then i can fit the bracing and chain tensioner/guide.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Dec 3, 2021 23:15:45 GMT 1
I don't see your inner clutch hub moving? It should also slide up and down the input shaft splines easily. Is this causing the problem?
It just so happens that i am in clutch mode at the moment.
The two thick thrust washers that have been mentioned should be 3mm thick each.
The primary gear wheel and kickstart gear wheel when correctly assembled should be about 34.5 mm deep/long. The kickstart gear is pressed into the primary gear wheel. The bronze/steel bush holds both parts together when fully assembled the bush should sit roughly 1.0 mm inside the outer edges of the assembled gears.
The brozne/steel bush is 32.7 mm long.
The steel insert that fits around the input shaft and in the bronze/steel bush is 35.0 mm long.
The thickness of the inner basket/hub is 17.0 mm long/deep
Once the locking tab and nut is fitted the whole assembly should pull up tight also pulling the input shaft into place. You should feel no axial movement of the input shaft but you should feel some axial movement of the outer clutch basket (this varies but not more than 0.50 mm guesstimate) also some radial movement due to the tolerance of the bronze/steel bush. This is needed for the oil film/fluid wedge or whatever you like to call it.
i hope this gives you some reference points to pin point your problem.
Robbies suggestion about making a thicker thrust washer sounds like the way forward if you find incorrect parts.
What make primaries are you using? I only know of three makes Liberty gears, Nova and home grown Norbo primaries. All of these primaries fit without problems you are showing in your video.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Nov 29, 2021 20:53:50 GMT 1
I've never really paid attention to the pressure as i have always used different presses.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Nov 29, 2021 20:07:16 GMT 1
What alovely side stand accesory
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Post by Tobyjugs on Nov 28, 2021 20:00:57 GMT 1
The re riveting process should be done in a press. Yes, not with a lump hammer although demonstrated by some folks who ought to know better…. Eh guilty your honor, in my defence it has only been once.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Nov 28, 2021 19:43:32 GMT 1
Hi giggsey, if your basket is ok i would suggest getting in touch with Gorden Jones from TZ350.co.uk. Ring him and have a chat. The re riveting process should be done in a press.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Nov 23, 2021 20:36:54 GMT 1
Tobyjugs will be happy anyway, there isnt a block under the side stand and it doesnt look ready to fall over 🤣 Steve Funny you should mention that have you seen the picture of the Teezer Matt has with a block of wood under the side stand
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Post by Tobyjugs on Nov 20, 2021 18:40:47 GMT 1
Jon if you put it under a strong magnifying glass it very easy to see the differences.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Nov 16, 2021 14:46:39 GMT 1
I've have a leak in this place I just cleaned the dimple prepped it and added more liquid metal. I used Wencom for no other reason than I can get it for free.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Nov 14, 2021 18:34:36 GMT 1
Welcome to the forum
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Post by Tobyjugs on Nov 14, 2021 16:38:07 GMT 1
I recessed the outside thrust washers into the webb's and pressed the pins further in. That's exactly what I meant Good to see it worked 👍 Steve We will have to get it running first 😀
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Post by Tobyjugs on Nov 14, 2021 15:39:05 GMT 1
How about using a 4mm stroker YPVS one and skimming 1.25mm off the outer faces of the webs? I recessed the outside thrust washers into the webb's and pressed the pins further in.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Nov 14, 2021 14:32:46 GMT 1
The distance of the inner webs are different as well. I've made 2 now but both times the way the cranks have been constructed I've had to make them differently. yep, that's why it took a while to suss it out, but got all the dimensions etc now, as I say, had a specific part made so that it all fitted correctly The second one I made was from what I believe to be more common type. I know a man who reclaims the hard surfaces on camshaft and then re-profiles them. I asked him to lengthen the middle pin. It's all made I just need to fit it to an engine with 68mm pistons. After all these years I can finally make an engine that looks stock but with a bit of a punch.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Nov 14, 2021 4:04:15 GMT 1
The distance of the inner webs are different as well. I've made 2 now but both times the way the cranks have been constructed I've had to make them differently.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Nov 12, 2021 11:45:59 GMT 1
Good to hear your still kicking and fighting 💪👍👍
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Post by Tobyjugs on Nov 12, 2021 7:26:41 GMT 1
This looks like a good quiz picture for Johnny. 😁
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Post by Tobyjugs on Nov 12, 2021 6:02:55 GMT 1
You can either get your cases machined to fit a +4 YPVS crank or get some one to make you a +4 crank for your LC.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Nov 11, 2021 10:07:15 GMT 1
Hi John I don't have much info for you a customer told him his bike was running badly. It kept cutting out on one cylinder if more than 7000rpm. After a lot of checking he found the problem. The owner drilled open the jet because it was blocked. He just fitted another jet and reamed it out to the size of the jet in the other bowl. This solved the problem.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Nov 10, 2021 18:26:04 GMT 1
No he drilled out the damaged jet hole and tapped the hole. He then screwed in a jet with the same size orifice as the original jet size.
Very simple and effective.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Nov 10, 2021 12:02:37 GMT 1
I'd have thought they'd have a smaller Power jet at least like the 250 Steve Ahhh.... a little more dismantling and yes, youre right Steve. fixed PJ. Damn. Has anyone successfully removed a fixed jet and replaced it with a normal version? I cant even find an online diagram with someone selling the removable PJ jet itself, the yam part books dont either hmmm. Only thing i can find is the add on PJ kit and that uses totally different jets. FWIW These have 290 mains. The fact the rest is standard (27.5 pilots, 5K1 needles), says to me like someone has upped the mains to compensate for the fixed jet. Is that the recognised way to do this or have I ended up with carbs i cant really use unless I find bowls with the removable jets? Yes a friend did it not so long ago. Quite simple really.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Nov 9, 2021 3:58:10 GMT 1
It's took me around 2 years to get some parts made for my dry clutch.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Nov 7, 2021 4:10:52 GMT 1
Does anyone have any info over this picture?
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Post by Tobyjugs on Nov 5, 2021 14:57:29 GMT 1
With the German TUV they are not jobsworth and if you can present a good case fore changing tyre size for example they will agree to approve. I know this from bringing in low volume classic cars from the UK. The original parts are just not available any more.
It does make me think about kit cars etc. I have a Q plate RD, does that make it desirable now.
I can buy all the best trick bits for my bike from you guys next year for next to nothing. I will have plenty of choice of spannies to choose from and sell my crappy original pipes for £1500 a pair. The future is looking bright.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Nov 3, 2021 18:50:47 GMT 1
Yes I don't like heavy springs.
After all the messing about with clutches for my Bakker bike I prefer standard spring pressure and try to mod the rest to suit the springs and engine output.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Nov 3, 2021 18:40:22 GMT 1
That really is the best then. 👍
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