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Post by Tobyjugs on May 7, 2024 23:21:30 GMT 1
Fess up. Who ate some of the tomatoes and barely touched the corn on the cob? Alex They are peppers for the vegetarian guests.
I love corn on the cobb and was just being polite, biding my time before i snaffled them up
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Post by Tobyjugs on May 7, 2024 22:41:51 GMT 1
Started jetting these old school Mikuni power jet carbs. They have no provision for idle. The first time I started the bike it was a bit fluffy and when riding any more than 1/4 throttle the engine would cut out. I dropped the pilot jets down from 70’s to 60’s and main jets down from 240’s to 190’s. Started without that fluffy feeling but was even worse to ride. Upped the main jets to 300’s, still sounds good at idle and small improvement with riding but still cutting out. With the chokes pulled open it doesn’t cut out and I had the feeling I was sitting on the back of a scolded cat. Just a feeling as this engine has newly honed cylinders and new pistons so not even a mile on it yet. The next step is to try some 400 main jets and double check the float heights. Not had much time lately for playing with bikes and only had an hour on this before it got dark. As you can see this bike isn’t very roadworthy. All testing was done on a private track! After spending a couple more hours last Saturday trying to jet the carbs i decided i need some bigger needle valves. Not knowing how long that will take i reverted to the standard carbs.
This meant checking the carbs were ok and fitting the jets etc which i have done so much of i just checked to see if the bike would start.
So today the bike was in the van on the way to the dyno bank.
The fine adjustment was two sizes up on the main jets from 440 to 460 and drop the needles down one notch from the center position.
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Post by Tobyjugs on May 6, 2024 20:42:53 GMT 1
cheers I know being way too critical... I just need to stop fussing and get on with putting it back together... I noticed that the bearing surface on the selector drum was quite pitted perhaps worn the needle roller side behind star. It felt smooth running finger over the surface so just polished with some autosol nothing catches or snagged. Assume replacement only option but new bearing does feel ok and no issues before strip down second thoughts about loctite now blue or purple.. took out that selector drum screw no loctite so someone in the past must have replaced the bearing... then again chanced having to replace that bearing again is probably zero so best blue as Jon said.. Personally i would use the purple loctite 222. It's doesn't have to be King Kong tight!
Check the selector drum where the bearing sits. Ive have a few which have indentations from the needle bearing rollers.
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Post by Tobyjugs on May 6, 2024 9:59:06 GMT 1
In Holland an mot is not needed for motorcycles. My daily driver is an old series 2 Landy and an mot is not needed for that.I always send it for a pretend mot. This is because I tend to ride it into the ground and a mot check tells me to change brake pads etc. I have sports car which hardly gets ridden but I always keep it spic and span just in case I want to do a track day.
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Post by Tobyjugs on May 1, 2024 7:36:05 GMT 1
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Post by Tobyjugs on Apr 29, 2024 9:40:55 GMT 1
Loctite 5910 will work very well, but it might hold your cases together too well when it comes time to split them. Probably expensive as well.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Apr 24, 2024 19:58:17 GMT 1
I use lots of different types of loctite for my work. Aluminium is not so tough as steel and can be damaged/worn out quicker than steel. So I always use 542 which is a sealant. I think it is a little softer on the threads and is still strong enough to lock them. That's just my experience.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Apr 24, 2024 19:48:32 GMT 1
the DRC043 kit fits 250/350LC's, 250/350 YPVS/RZ's, RD250/350 and 400 A/C, and of course 350 Banhsee quads, you need to ditch the rubber rings between the plates as the fibres are wider than stock Yamaha, but the fibres and steels are the correct thickness and therefore give the correct stack height, which is very important. The kit comes with 6 15% heavy duty springs, in most cases you can either run with stock springs if a stock bike, or 3 EBC springs and 3 stock springs if the bike has been tweaked/tuned, I've run engines with 70+bhp with 3 EBC and 3 stock springs with no slippage You can also get a carbon fibre high performance kit, which is even better, but they cost around £100(ish), instead of the £78 for the DRC043 HTH I've just been searching for the EBC clutch kit number and come across this thread. To be honest I just want the full steel plates. I feel because there is no filter for the gearbox the carbon particles can wear the rest of the gearbox out quicker. What's your thoughts or experience on this? I've tried them from a dirt digger set and they work great but I took them out because of thoughts of wear.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Apr 20, 2024 8:02:11 GMT 1
This is the best type in my opinion. It just takes more imagination to plum it in. You shouldn’t get any Yo Yo effect with this. This one is from a Super Cart engine. I didn’t fit it at first because I thought it was too small. That opinion has changed now after seeing how big the hole is on the pressure side of the pump. I have also got a bigger version of the above which comes from a snow mobile,
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Post by Tobyjugs on Apr 16, 2024 18:13:45 GMT 1
Congratulations
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Post by Tobyjugs on Apr 15, 2024 17:32:05 GMT 1
Started jetting these old school Mikuni power jet carbs. They have no provision for idle. The first time I started the bike it was a bit fluffy and when riding any more than 1/4 throttle the engine would cut out. I dropped the pilot jets down from 70’s to 60’s and main jets down from 240’s to 190’s. Started without that fluffy feeling but was even worse to ride. Upped the main jets to 300’s, still sounds good at idle and small improvement with riding but still cutting out. With the chokes pulled open it doesn’t cut out and I had the feeling I was sitting on the back of a scolded cat. Just a feeling as this engine has newly honed cylinders and new pistons so not even a mile on it yet. The next step is to try some 400 main jets and double check the float heights. Not had much time lately for playing with bikes and only had an hour on this before it got dark. As you can see this bike isn’t very roadworthy. All testing was done on a private track!
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Post by Tobyjugs on Apr 15, 2024 14:38:31 GMT 1
Is your engine gone from 570cc to 750cc?
That’s a massive jump or typing error?
What kind off performance figures are you aiming at?
I never took much interest in these types of engines until my friend decided to make new cylinders based on a more radical port and cooling water design.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Apr 15, 2024 12:38:58 GMT 1
Did I see a Mermaid in that film?
A very sober film. Great post.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Apr 5, 2024 0:49:20 GMT 1
Hi Tim that is a lovely and very rare special bike you have built. Reading posts you have made in the past I guess your not short of a bob or room for storage. Personally I would keep it for those special days, but I know time would still have to be spent on maintenance so that it is ready to go when you want it to. They’re not like a Suzuki Bandit, just press the button and go. Have you ever thought about trying to perfect some of the bits you think could be improved? You could look at them as special single projects which would make very interesting threads on this forum. Just imagine if it is sold to someone who paints it a lurid colour then runs the builder down for using the wrong bolts, calls him a monkey and he will fix it all. Then fits a Wind Jammer fairing on it. People will still think it’s your original build because of the design Good luck with your choice.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Apr 5, 2024 0:21:00 GMT 1
Hi Alex as mentioned above a bearing retainer medium is good to to use in the correct circumstances and certain engineering designs need it. I use it a lot.
I would use it for your application as long as the bearing is not too loose.
Go to the loctite website as there are plenty to choose from and try to pick one which suits your application best.
I always consider the the clearance I have between the two parts as very important.
Off the top of my head I would say 648 is a good allround bearing retainer medium. Not sure but 638 could be a better choice for aluminium. Best check the Henkel website.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Mar 19, 2024 14:43:40 GMT 1
The first thing I’ would do is double check the temperature readings.
It’s very good it hasn’t seized at 120 C
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Post by Tobyjugs on Mar 18, 2024 17:28:00 GMT 1
Is it not just 5% Thee registration would be the hard bit as you'd need a NOVA which ideally needs to be through a shipping company and started before you bring it in Probably easier riding it over then having a convo with them and acting dumb 🤣 Steve That’s what I would do as well.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Mar 18, 2024 9:58:02 GMT 1
Import duties are not so much on older vehicles into Holland.
Could be the same rules for the UK?
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Post by Tobyjugs on Mar 16, 2024 9:36:55 GMT 1
Hi Alex have you thought about buying from Europe? Below is an advert I stumbled across. Suzuki
Now working?
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Post by Tobyjugs on Mar 14, 2024 13:37:28 GMT 1
Thinking about it, my R11 tyre was the same until I put it on the rim and pumped it up.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Mar 14, 2024 10:21:00 GMT 1
My tyres are the same but a little less
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Post by Tobyjugs on Mar 11, 2024 17:48:32 GMT 1
The age was the first thing I checked on these new tyres. They were less than 6 months old. The company had a Dutch name the business address was in Andora. One tyre came from France the other 3 came from two different places in Germany. Not sure I would've ordered them if I knew all this beforehand. Just ordered a 110/140 S22 pair It's on your head as you said they were good 🤣 My biggest concern is I bought through Demon Tweaks again which I said I'd never do again but I suppose they don't actually stock them and they will come from another suppliers warehouse They were £152 delivered so £20 cheaper than anywhere else I could find Steve I hear they second best only just beaten by the Cheng Sing tyre when it comes to performance for still standing 400cc YPVS bikes!!!
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Post by Tobyjugs on Mar 10, 2024 10:44:27 GMT 1
Sounds like something rubbing. Have you checked the oil for debris?
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Post by Tobyjugs on Mar 9, 2024 15:14:43 GMT 1
I've always used a 110 front My dilemma is I can get BT090s in 110 and 150 but when I ran a 150 before it didn't turn in well Whether it was going from a 150 when I ran Dunlop GPR and moved to the Bridgestone BT090 in a 140 that improved it due to the width reduction or the fact the BT090 was egg shaped I don't know And then there is the question over what age of 090 ill get delivered 🤔 Steve The age was the first thing I checked on these new tyres. They were less than 6 months old. The company had a Dutch name the business address was in Andora. One tyre came from France the other 3 came from two different places in Germany. Not sure I would've ordered them if I knew all this beforehand.
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Tyres
Mar 9, 2024 0:00:17 GMT 1
Post by Tobyjugs on Mar 9, 2024 0:00:17 GMT 1
I went from a 150 rear down to a 140 and liked that better. Now I’m going to go from a 120 front down to a 110 to see how that is.
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Tyres
Mar 8, 2024 16:49:50 GMT 1
via mobile
Post by Tobyjugs on Mar 8, 2024 16:49:50 GMT 1
In the end I went with S22's They more than good enough for me.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Mar 2, 2024 7:40:58 GMT 1
That was a loverly 500 GP bike Great video. I like all the alternative ideas. Cheers Johnny
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Post by Tobyjugs on Mar 2, 2024 7:09:21 GMT 1
I agree with Marky. Maybe two mm at a time and go for a good blast between adjustment. As previously mentioned the back of Kees's bike was jacked up (because of clearance issues) and in the end the front end was also lifted slightly because he found the back end was losing grip in the bends after being jacked up.
I would also suggest when you have.found an adjustment you are happy with put a stripe over the extension piece locknut and shock so you can check if it comes loose.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Feb 29, 2024 12:34:14 GMT 1
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Post by Tobyjugs on Feb 29, 2024 12:29:24 GMT 1
Yes on 50cc Freetech race bikes. It's all tiny gains towards different needs of the racers. I've also done similar on my engines but not really seen any big gains. The reed spacer worked best on a 4L0 engine fitted with YPVS reeds. I think the YPVS reeds interfere with the middle transfer duct a little. 6mm gave possibly 2pk in the midrange and there was no extra gain with a 10mm spacer fitted. I would say good to use for a specific engine goal. Interesting. I was running some 6mm 3D printed plastic spacers between the barrels and YPVS dual stage carbon reeds on my 4L0. When stripping it after one of the reeds broke I noticed the plastic spacer was being deformed by the smaller gasket surface that resulted from the barrels being carved out to fit the YPVS reeds. So it got rebuilt with new oem yam steel reeds and no spacers. I cannot really say I noticed any loss of performance, but I don`t know how long the dual stage reed had been playing up for before one failed completely , one outer petal being sucked through the dual reed window. Its running nicely now, but I have some NOS LEDAR nozzles to try , then I may try some alloy 6mm spacers. I`m not sure my "Arse Dyno" is sensitive enough to pick up small, 2HP, changes though ! I would also like to try both the ledar nozzles and the dual stage reeds. People give the reeds a bad reputation for not performing, but i think they probably will work well for the midrange gang. That's exactly what I'm trying to say about the spacers unless it's part of a plan you won't notice much unless you are measuring on a dyno.
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