|
Prices
Feb 2, 2022 22:38:56 GMT 1
Post by Tobyjugs on Feb 2, 2022 22:38:56 GMT 1
I'm not surprised i work in the service industry for ships. 30% of the service engineers in my company has covid, so they all have to stay home. This sort of thing is causing lots of problems for some boats that are delayed due to breakdowns.
|
|
|
Post by Tobyjugs on Feb 2, 2022 22:24:15 GMT 1
Idealy a nice smooth running surface is best as everyone has suggested. Bare's suggestion is not so bad I have a pair of forks which i have adjusted for trackdays etc. They also have rust marks which seem to be a little worse than in your picture. To get around the leaking and damaging of seals etc i polish them with some special linishing cloth (its actually platsic). Its made by 3M and is a 30 micron micro-finishing film. It's very fine but sharp at the same time. Hard to describe the action, you can feel it bite in so i use it with WD40. I cut it into a 20mm wide long strips and give the blemishes a quick polish. It doesnt take much time and removes any high points or edges. Until now i've never had any problems with leaks. Of course this method is just like putting a plaster over a wound. Eventually this paper will remove the chrome, but before that happens i might bend the forks in an off. Toby, have you a link to the cloth please? Try this LINK
I have also used 20 micron but when used with WD40 the grit seemed to fall off. Maybe i have a bad roll. Normally it keeps it's edge for ages I have a few strips which are used a few times a year for cleaning all sorts of metal and rust etc and they are about 4 years old. Ive got the strips hanging on nails
|
|
|
Post by Tobyjugs on Feb 2, 2022 22:16:09 GMT 1
Last week i saw 38 mm copy Mikuni's making 79 PK on a RGV 250 engine. The owner wasnt satisfied with this and bought a genuine set. The maximum output was the same 79 PK, but the midrange and pickup was better. The fake carbs was fitted with genuine Mikuni jets and also used the fake slide.
|
|
|
Post by Tobyjugs on Feb 2, 2022 0:05:57 GMT 1
They need to look down the end of a sawn off shotgun if they like wearing balaclavas.
|
|
|
Post by Tobyjugs on Feb 1, 2022 23:53:25 GMT 1
Just to understand this better your mod was with a standard YPVS rim? Nope, 17" FZR rim, fork lowers yokes etc. The FZR tubes were rusty, so I swapped the tubes from the F2 ones. Bolted into the F2 headstock perfectly, no spacers needed. I suspect the RZ250R used the same or very similar stuff. Old picture here www.dropbox.com/s/8a5fzjdgipkyou3/DSCF1489.JPG Also has the FZR rear end in, so no nasty suspension bushes through the swinger and a 17" wheel. Needed a small amount of work to fit, long time ago now, but new dog bones and maybe a bit of narrowing, but relatively easy. I do like the look of that front wheel.
|
|
|
Post by Tobyjugs on Feb 1, 2022 18:51:41 GMT 1
It's all in the number 😗 Jack Middelburg. The last privateer to win a 500cc GP. RIP. They made his story into a play or a musical to watch in the theater in Holland a few years back. Nico Bakker made a replica of his bike for the show using a Triumph as it needed to be started on stage. They didn't think it was a good idea to start up a real twostroke
|
|
|
Post by Tobyjugs on Feb 1, 2022 18:35:19 GMT 1
For what it's worth, I have F2 uppers and FZR 250 2KR lowers. I think all the 35mm Yam stuff of that era swaps around without any issues. So I have a single 320mm disk and 100mm between centre caliper mounts, so a blue spot, or in my case a gold spot caliper bolts on directly. Just to understand this better your mod was with a standard YPVS rim?
|
|
|
Post by Tobyjugs on Feb 1, 2022 9:39:32 GMT 1
Thats roughly my thoughts as well. I think the operater has to be "Dialled" in to be able to read them correctly.
|
|
|
Post by Tobyjugs on Feb 1, 2022 9:35:08 GMT 1
How did that work out?
|
|
|
Post by Tobyjugs on Feb 1, 2022 9:32:15 GMT 1
Hi Rob, that looks like a Hi-Tech track bike!
Does it have exhaust sensors?
|
|
|
Post by Tobyjugs on Jan 31, 2022 13:08:29 GMT 1
Hi Jim this has been in the back of my mind for a long time, sorry i cant help with info but i always thought it must be possible. I will be watching this unfold with interest.
|
|
|
Post by Tobyjugs on Jan 31, 2022 10:03:17 GMT 1
Another small modification i made was to the left hand engine side casing. I wanted quick and easy access to the flywheel for visual inspections, so i decided to cut the top round part of the casing off. After a bit of checking i marked where i wanted to cut it. I wasn't sure how this was going to turn out as the round part of the cover has a taper and i was thinking about reducing the height of the casing as well. Whist cutting through the side cover it went a bit wrong and it started to cut it wonky. I was very lucky not to ruin it and after straightening both pieces up i had reduced the height by roughly 3-4 mm. This reduction in height is not much but any lower and the end of the crankshaft would be touching the cover. Due to the taper of the round part of the side cover the end lid is slightly smaller in diameter than the rest of the side cover. You can see this in the picture below, when the two parts are painted black it will be harder to see.
|
|
|
Post by Tobyjugs on Jan 30, 2022 20:59:34 GMT 1
Welcome to the forum
|
|
|
Post by Tobyjugs on Jan 30, 2022 15:04:30 GMT 1
Some folk are just happy fitting blingy off the shelf parts to their bikes. Not this one The kill switch you have fitted is a lovely little touch there Great stuff Mr T John. It might be a bit out of period but it is much tidier than having switches next to the tacho.
|
|
|
Post by Tobyjugs on Jan 30, 2022 14:30:45 GMT 1
+1 Steve is a Jedi Master. Too funny 😆 Thanks for making me laugh, certainly brightened me up after my positive Covid test this morning 😠Steve On a serious note i hope your not too badly affected by the covid.
|
|
|
Post by Tobyjugs on Jan 30, 2022 14:29:23 GMT 1
+1 Steve is a Jedi Master. Too funny 😆 Thanks for making me laugh, certainly brightened me up after my positive Covid test this morning 😠Steve Hmm does this coincide with receiving a milling machine?
|
|
|
Post by Tobyjugs on Jan 30, 2022 14:16:51 GMT 1
Idealy a nice smooth running surface is best as everyone has suggested. Bare's suggestion is not so bad I have a pair of forks which i have adjusted for trackdays etc. They also have rust marks which seem to be a little worse than in your picture. To get around the leaking and damaging of seals etc i polish them with some special linishing cloth (its actually platsic). Its made by 3M and is a 30 micron micro-finishing film. It's very fine but sharp at the same time. Hard to describe the action, you can feel it bite in so i use it with WD40. I cut it into a 20mm wide long strips and give the blemishes a quick polish. It doesnt take much time and removes any high points or edges. Until now i've never had any problems with leaks. Of course this method is just like putting a plaster over a wound. Eventually this paper will remove the chrome, but before that happens i might bend the forks in an off.
|
|
|
Post by Tobyjugs on Jan 30, 2022 11:12:23 GMT 1
Helium inflated tires? 😜 Not such a stupid idea to inflate tyres with another gas other than air. Of course the above was a joke, and would offer negligible benefits for 2 or 3 days until the tyres went flat due to the tiny molecules of helium passing through the tyres or bead. However go the other way with nitrogen (which has a large molecule size) and you have a small improvement over air. Not quite sure how they evacuate the uncompressed air from the tyres first if at all. Anyone know? Jon I just googled it and found this;
|
|
|
Post by Tobyjugs on Jan 29, 2022 21:33:12 GMT 1
Once isaw a TR on the dyno that vibrated so bad that the fueling in the carbs was affected.
|
|
|
Post by Tobyjugs on Jan 29, 2022 21:26:55 GMT 1
Oh nice and shiny John. That's certainly the best way to clean the base gasket area.
|
|
|
Post by Tobyjugs on Jan 29, 2022 21:21:11 GMT 1
Time to update this project a bit. Not sure where to begin so i think i will begin with last August /September. September i had a whole month off work so with that in mind i wanted to get the bike out on the track. I was still messing around with the clutch and the output of the engine seemed to be going up and down a bit. I made the clutch super strong and decided to test it on the back roads where i live. This was not a good idea and to be honest i was a little bit disappointed. The roads were too bumpy and the first 3 gears are too short leading straight to wheelies. So back to the dyno bank. Can't quite recall this piece but due to a low tyre pressure or the weight difference between me and Pieter (the dyno owner) it was noticed the bike made more or less power. This lead to the conclusion the bike had been spinning the rear tyre up on the roller of the dyno bank. A lot of clutch work was done for the wrong reason. So with the bike now being tested with the wheel firmly in place on the dyno bank every thing was fine and the power was reading 97 PK without slip. Pieter suggested we do some runs to check the speed and gearing which i thought was agood idea. So whilst doing this the clutch siezed. Then that sinking feeling came to me as i knew it was my fault. I started out using a steel ball bearing then later swapped it to a ceramic ball bearing because of the thought of it seizing as i was upping the strength of the clutch. The last time i put the clutch together i dropped the ceramic ball on the floor and couldnt find it. Due to me wanting to sort it all before September i put the steel ball bearing back in. If you click on the picture below you will see the video where the clutch siezed. It turned out i couldn't pull the clutch actuation shaft out because it had mushroomed on the otherside of the shaft as well. I had to split the engine.
Pedrotzr came to my rescue and within a few days i had a thrust bearing and i got some more ceramic ball bearings. Just before Xmas i found the original ceramic bearing on the floor. When i first decided to build this project i asked Pieter from PS=Tuning to help me. He was very enthusiastic but he had one condltion. This was that we keep the engine power at around 85-90 PK he knew Kees would also be riding this bike and wanted to make sure that it wasn't too harsh. He said to me "i know you will be afraid of it and throttle off, but Kees won't". I totally agreed with him on that. After i repaired the siezed clutch mechanism the bike was back on the dyno and adjusted to 90 PK. In August i ordered some Bridgestone R11 tyres whiich didn't arrive until October. This was frustrating but all the circuit days were also fully booked and there was a waiting list for anyone who dropped out. This meant i still haven't been able to test the bike. When i went back to PS-Tuning to check the ignition timing etc after i had split the engine, the bike wouldn't start. Things between me and Pieter started to get irritable as Pieter started messing around with the leads etc and i was saying it wasnt necessary. I did warn him the timming could be slightly out due to there being no keyway to locate the flywheel to the crank. It turned out that the kill switch was playing up first not working and later intermittently I did set the timing bang on the nose from the last time. All tension for nothing. Just a short spat, not a problem for friends. I went on the hunt for a new kill switch. Kees for a joke bought me one of those handlebar GP switch cluster from Aliexpress for 4 euros including post. This give me an idea. The way my bike is wired up i have no battery and only a capacitor. Once the bike is bumpstarted the power is autamically fed to the tacho. I didnt like this much and was contemplating modifying the tacho bracket so i could fit an on/off switch and a menu button next to the tacho. No need with one of the clusters. I ended up with one of these. I got in touch with CNC Racing to ask them about the switch specifications as all the models i had seen were for different types of Ducati's. They asked all the normal questions like which make/model and year bike is it. I've got used to this now and explained to them it is a one off project and sent them a picture of the bike and what i am trying to achieve. I had return e-mails usually within half an hour of my sent e-mails and they asked me what i wanted and built the switch to my spec. This took less than 20 days from my first e-mail to recieving the switch. The most surprising part was the bespoke switch was much cheaper than the advertised switches for Ducati's That's a big thumbs up for CNC Racing. Once i got the switch i changed my mind and wanted to mount it on the clutch side of the handle bar. To do this i had to make a clamp for the switch cluster. So a quick chat with a friend and off i was to his shed with some ally bar to make a clamp. This was made very easy by using a tiny work bench size milling machine. He made the basic form for me which i then shaped with some hand files.
Sometimes i just can't make my mind up. I've now fitted the switch cluster back to it's original position bolted to the brake lever. So i took the lazy expensive option by using the CNC Racing buttons. It is however neat and tidy and IP68 rated.
|
|
|
Post by Tobyjugs on Jan 28, 2022 16:53:37 GMT 1
Yes the needle needs to stay within the top of the emulsifier tube to keep it located in the hole
|
|
|
Post by Tobyjugs on Jan 28, 2022 16:19:33 GMT 1
Are 4LO and 31k/F2 springs the same? Not sure about that one but i have noticed that YPVS springs are colour coded with yellow paint. Never seen that on a 4LO engine.
|
|
|
Post by Tobyjugs on Jan 28, 2022 9:19:55 GMT 1
You can use the standard cable, but you have a very small margin of error.
What i do is is first check the twist grip can pull the slide in the 3way splitter to the very top of the splitter and when released the slide goes to the very bottom of the splitter. Once that is good then you can play with the free length of the seperate carb slide cables. It's important to keep these exactly the same length because if the discrepancy is too large when dialing it out on you cable adjusters you could lose some range. I think you have roughly 3mm slack to play with if you want full range on the throttle slides. It is much easier to use a longer 3way splitter, but with patience and lots of checking you can use the original cable.
Your workshop looks nice.
|
|
|
Post by Tobyjugs on Jan 28, 2022 0:55:45 GMT 1
Great looking and sounding bike. I love the fact you have a 4LO engine thats been stretched. Top job!
|
|
|
Post by Tobyjugs on Jan 28, 2022 0:48:47 GMT 1
I can sell you one of Rolie's gaskets at the inflated price of 4 euros plus postage unless you live close to Rotterdam and collect it yourself.
|
|
|
Post by Tobyjugs on Jan 26, 2022 16:17:02 GMT 1
I normally put a RTV type sealer on the engine side case side so that the gaskets stick to it, the only reason i do this is to stick it to the casing for when i open it up for checks or maintenance. The one thing i would advise is a tiny dob of sealant on both sides of the engine block where the two halfs butt up.
If the EBC kit comes with steel frictions that are completely round i would use the standard spring set up as you have more friction area with them.
Spring wise i would go for lightest possible unless you like gorilla grip work outs.
|
|
|
Post by Tobyjugs on Jan 19, 2022 11:12:23 GMT 1
I'm not so positive about them as two people have asked me to take a look at their bikes due to no Spark. Both were fitted with M-boxes. I told them I was too busy, to be honest i should've said I don't know they work.
|
|
|
Post by Tobyjugs on Jan 16, 2022 14:48:59 GMT 1
I have saved this and printed it out, it's in my manuels for references and been used many times. There are one or two discrepancies but its good to bring it back for other newer members to see.
|
|
|
Post by Tobyjugs on Jan 7, 2022 15:41:22 GMT 1
Thats an interesting bike
|
|