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Post by Tobyjugs on Jan 5, 2022 23:15:43 GMT 1
Thats nice and tidy
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Post by Tobyjugs on Jan 5, 2022 23:06:01 GMT 1
Hi Adam welcome to the forum. Thats an interesting choice for a 250 LC, am i correect in thinking its a 4L1 model. The reason i ask is because its a very long swing arm for the LC 4L1 type bike. A standard 4L1 swing arm measures 46cm from center wheel spindle grooove to center swing arm pivot. The YZF arm is 100mm longer for the same measuring points. If you are using the standard seat and tail piece this might look odd. I just thought i would point this out in case you have not thought about it as i see you mention you only have a frame in your first post. Good look with the project what ever you decide and post lots of pictures. We like pictures Tony
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Post by Tobyjugs on Jan 3, 2022 18:35:11 GMT 1
Difficult to judge by this picture. It looks to me like a solder as its also on the steel part of the cylinder.
The wall thickenes of the steel part of the cylinder doesnt look very symmetrical. Clean it and measure everything
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Post by Tobyjugs on Jan 3, 2022 17:54:04 GMT 1
I think the 3rd and 4th gears are the same not 100% sure without measuring. I know the dogs on the rest of the YPVS gears are slightly bigger.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Dec 29, 2021 21:11:01 GMT 1
Nice job, hanging it is cheating 🤣 Steve As usual good work. Steve i thought he was checking the sag.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Dec 25, 2021 16:41:21 GMT 1
Merry Xmas everyone.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Dec 23, 2021 22:19:35 GMT 1
The pipes idea sounds good. I've just seen some pipes that have been made for a Kwaka triple that echoes your idea. I will try and get a picture of them for you.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Dec 21, 2021 20:33:38 GMT 1
Hi Sidney great work. From memory i think there might be an issue with clearance between the kickstart and the toe piece of the brake lever if you space out the Tarozzis. Have you checked that with the kickstart in the lower position?
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Post by Tobyjugs on Dec 19, 2021 23:01:47 GMT 1
This bike was made by a Man called Bart. He actually won his flat tracking class with it. He sold to to somebody in Belgium. I met Bart at a flat tracking event and he told me he's was going to make an RD powered bike. Very freindly chap that is now giving me advice for parts I'm collecting. I spoke to Bart and and sent him a link to this thread. He was over the moon that his old bike was posted on this thread and he corrected me about the chassis. The chassis is a moidfied XT frame.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Dec 18, 2021 19:49:37 GMT 1
Johnny can you name the year, the place and the riders?
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Post by Tobyjugs on Dec 18, 2021 11:36:58 GMT 1
What frame did he use Tony? Looks like an oil in frame trackmster Hi Tim i'm not sure but i think it's a modified Honda frame, with the headstock re-angled fitted with early R6 forks. The swing arm was braced with an extra hoop. Bart has his own powder coating business so the frame was coated silver. If you want more info just pm me
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Post by Tobyjugs on Dec 18, 2021 9:31:31 GMT 1
This bike was made by a Man called Bart. He actually won his flat tracking class with it. He sold to to somebody in Belgium. I met Bart at a flat tracking event and he told me he's was going to make an RD powered bike. Very freindly chap that is now giving me advice for parts I'm collecting.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Dec 14, 2021 23:10:52 GMT 1
Hi Rob I think it's great that you are doing it yourself and i love the shape of those pipes. From the specs you posted up, the uncorrected compression ratio looks too high. I ended up lowering mine to about 11.5:1 (I think) i need to find my notes. I went from 23cc domes to 26cc. I cant comment on corrected compression ratios but lowering my uncorrected compression ratio helped the engine rev better. I also altered my exhaust port duration from 194 to 196 degrees Also i measured the combustion space above the piston crown with oil as only using the dome cc wil give a slightly different ratio. Sorry if i'm teaching grandad to suck eggs. Keep up the good work.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Dec 12, 2021 23:43:49 GMT 1
I rebuilt my R1 gearbox with one new selector fork and 4or 5 gears. I've forgotten exactly how many parts but not the cost! Anyway, when It was all back up and running again there wasn't even a hint of a clunk when I put it in 1st gear and riding it the gearchange was so light. Could it be with yours everything is like brand new again? Great work BTW. Talking of costs i was looking at the price of R6 exhaust valves. The valves are made from titanium with a special coating. They are 120 euros a piece. Long live the two stroke
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Post by Tobyjugs on Dec 12, 2021 23:39:30 GMT 1
I rebuilt my R1 gearbox with one new selector fork and 4or 5 gears. I've forgotten exactly how many parts but not the cost! Anyway, when It was all back up and running again there wasn't even a hint of a clunk when I put it in 1st gear and riding it the gearchange was so light. Could it be with yours everything is like brand new again? Great work BTW. Hi Steve most of the parts were already used in this engine. The parts that were diferent was a longer input shaft with a different ratio 1st gear, the 1st gear on the output shaft (not so keen on this as it runs on needle bearings) and two new primary gears, i also used all the old gearbox bearings. The R1 has a different method of clutch disengagement which may create less drag between the plates. I believe that it transformed the gearchange because there is no clutch drag from the oil btween the clutch plates. When Kees drove the bike he was also surprised about the clutch action and commented on how sensitive the gear change is. The 4LO from Kees uses standard clutch parts except for the plates and springs which are heavier or a stealth locker if he goes sprint racing. He has what i call a normal gear action for an RD. I don't find this bad at all, the eight friction plate clutch i made is almost the same, but i just can't compare how it now behaves with the dry clutch fitted. I had plans to put the selector drum and gear shift lever on bearings to help with the action. I'm glad i didn't do it now. I've ridden about 120 km with it now so i will open it up soon and take the side cover off for an inspection to check for strange wear patterns etc. The problem is i really want one now for my road bike. The covers are easy to make but its the input shaft and primaires that are the challenge. I also ended up making a clutch holding tool. When i went to tighten my clutch nut up i was thinking about you and your clutch holding tools. Here's what i knocked up just using a pillar drill and some nuts and bolts.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Dec 11, 2021 17:56:27 GMT 1
Am I right in thinking the sprocket nut is the same thread? Steve I'm not sure i knocked up a few titanium nuts for the 8 plate clutch i'm using clutch so this nut is redundant. After reading Marrcels last post i think i might have confused people. The clutch nut and sprocket nut are not the same on a YPVS i just checked. The nut below was made for the clutch side of the input shaft. This saves packing the nut out with extra washers.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Dec 10, 2021 21:31:37 GMT 1
Am I right in thinking the sprocket nut is the same thread? Steve I'm not sure i knocked up a few titanium nuts for the 8 plate clutch i'm using clutch so this nut is redundant.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Dec 10, 2021 21:28:05 GMT 1
Very nice i'm looking forward to this.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Dec 10, 2021 21:23:53 GMT 1
I'd guess it's because he has reduced the inner hub with a thinner thrust washer the splines are proud of the hub face the centre bolt mates with Steve I am not sure if my english but the bolt hit the splines instead of the hub. Oh i understand now. Send me the nut and i will send you one of these.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Dec 9, 2021 23:41:54 GMT 1
I cut a washer for an 8 plate clutch. Hi Marrcel what was the reason for cutting the locking tab?
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Post by Tobyjugs on Dec 9, 2021 23:38:09 GMT 1
I have two radiators which i constantly use, but they are not the same. One is for a 4LO engine and the other for a YPVS engine, i am constantly chainging radiators to suit the engine. I'm not so keen on this so a while ago i got these knocked up. A good friend who works abroad a lot is now home so he managed to weld a fitting into one of my rads. This means i dont have to change this one any more It's currently destined to cool a 4LO engine so it is now fitted with the plug.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Dec 6, 2021 22:02:51 GMT 1
Thanks Matt this is the test bike for different things i make or have ideas about. The Bakker engine is complete and ready to roll so i dont want to open it up. Once i'm happy with the clutch it will be fitted into the Bakker engine with a different modded clutch casing. It will be more open for cooling.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Dec 6, 2021 21:37:02 GMT 1
I am glad to see some pictures of your progress. How did you made the dry casing? My 8 plate clutch is finished but not installed. Before i change the 7 plate clutch i will test some stiffer springs first. It's just a drum welded into the normal casing.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Dec 6, 2021 21:26:28 GMT 1
If i posted this correct if you click on the picture it should lead you to the video on my Flickr page.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Dec 6, 2021 19:51:57 GMT 1
Is that affiliated to the french magazine called cafe racer? Yes, it's a great festival.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Dec 6, 2021 19:00:37 GMT 1
Well I've started it up and i am very very happy. It has instantly made me biased and got me thinking about all the mods we do on our clutches. (chasing our own tails?) Not sure where to begin but here goes. Firstly i degreased 6 Standard old friction plates and fitted them into the clutch assembly. I did this because i was afraid i might get some oil leakages and didn't want to ruin my new dry plate frictions. No leaks so far. I started it up and apart from the noise, i instantly noticed the rear wheel was still. This was the first surprise, i grabbed the wheel and give it a spin and it reacted normally and stopped again. The dry clutch has no influence on the drive when in neutral. The clutch lever action at present has the same amount of resistance as fresh air. One finger operation, this wont last long. At present i think the preload on the springs is too light. I'm pretty sure this clutch will slip when given a handfull but it was dark and raining when i gave it a test drive. It pulled away like normal but i was concentrating on the action etc. Only a pootle tonight. The second surprise is the gear change. Not sure what to say Super Slick! maybe too slick as it changed gear as soon as foot touched it. This engine has none of the gear mods just bog standard Yamaha parts. Selecting neutral is so easy it's almost telepathic. The action has changed so much it's hard to describe. I will probably start to cringe now when i read new posts where someone has modified the gear change star. I want one for my road bike now Ive got some video and will post it up later.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Dec 6, 2021 10:39:35 GMT 1
That looks like Montlhery south of Paris. That circuit is on my bucket list. Love to do there and chimay and other continental roads. 👍 The easiest way to get to ride Montlhery is through the Cafe Racer Festival. Next year so far on the list is the Rockanje Classic TT. It's just a couple of minutes up the road from me. As long as covid does't scare everyone away!
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Post by Tobyjugs on Dec 6, 2021 9:32:12 GMT 1
It was hand made by the Garden Gnome Racing Corporation, this makes it expensive.
At this time of the year they don't seem to be so active which also pushes the prices of their products up.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Dec 6, 2021 9:20:48 GMT 1
What a beauty! Here's another.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Dec 5, 2021 22:14:25 GMT 1
That looks like Montlhery south of Paris. That circuit is on my bucket list.
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