|
|
Post by Tobyjugs on Dec 4, 2021 23:59:27 GMT 1
The Bakker project is still going ahead but basically i'm waiting to run it on the track to do some shake down tests etc. Also i have turned my attention to making and modifying the engine components to be lighter.  The 8 friction plate clutch is working without problems. Not much to show for that one, its nice to have a nice standard clutch action that handles around 70 PK. After maybe 2 years I'm finally in a position to try out my MK1 dry clutch (not made by me personally, it has been two different people). Its fitted to a test enginge for trials on the road to see how it performs/leaks   . Hopefully tomorow or Monday it will be up and running. Its running 2.53:1 primaries and the standard RD water pump set up. I can run the oil pump in theory as i have also got a gear wheel for the normal oil pump. Just need to get in touch with Gary for the fine details of oil delivery if i decide to use this option. It has been made for the Bakker project but can be used on a road going YPVS engine if wanted.   You can see that the clutch is totally surrounded by the engine casing. I will probably cut a large proportion of this away to aid cooling and to stop clutch plate dust building up. I have no experiance of dy clutches so it will be a case of suck it and see. This engine casing is in nice condition so this one will stay as it is. Ive also made jigs and tools to easily make another dry clutch casing and will use one of my mullered casings to make the stripped down version for the Bakker project. Another ongoing project is a slightly longer swing arm to help keep the nose of the RD on the ground during sprints. Made for the Rotterdam Dirt Event. Now ftted to the bike and waiting for a better back wheel then i can fit the bracing and chain tensioner/guide.   |
|
|
|
Post by srhiskx on Dec 5, 2021 1:11:26 GMT 1
The dry clutch is very cool! I’ll be following this thread to see how it works. Very nice work!
|
|
|
|
Post by 4l04ever on Dec 5, 2021 9:50:36 GMT 1
That swingarm looks nearly as long as an RGV one.... ;-)
|
|
|
|
Post by Tobyjugs on Dec 5, 2021 9:59:17 GMT 1
That swingarm looks nearly as long as an RGV one.... ;-) Thanks i was worried it might look too long |
|
|
|
Post by 4l04ever on Dec 5, 2021 10:08:12 GMT 1
It will be fine for a spot of drag racing :-)
|
|
|
|
Post by veg on Dec 5, 2021 10:26:47 GMT 1
Enjoying the cafe culture Tony? 😁
|
|
|
|
Post by 4l04ever on Dec 5, 2021 10:27:30 GMT 1
...and there is room in front of the rear wheel for a NOS bottle....
|
|
|
|
Post by tipfinchy on Dec 5, 2021 11:58:05 GMT 1
nice one , glad to see your still pushing on with the beautiful Bakker bike
mart
|
|
|
|
Post by Tobyjugs on Dec 5, 2021 21:42:14 GMT 1
...and there is room in front of the rear wheel for a NOS bottle.... Very true Rob but i think Tim has got a point with the Cafe Racer culture. They wouldn't appreciate a nos bottle, i will be better accepted if i fit an expresso machine in that space. |
|
|
|
Post by Tobyjugs on Dec 5, 2021 21:45:21 GMT 1
nice one , glad to see your still pushing on with the beautiful Bakker bike mart Hi Mart the Bakker project is still prority 1. |
|
|
|
Post by dougw on Dec 6, 2021 14:21:27 GMT 1
Beautiful work.
Please say you are going to sell dry clutch kits, and I`ll try and kid myself that I will be able to afford it for the 4L1/YPVS build that's been dormant for the last decade or so.
|
|
|
|
Post by Tobyjugs on Dec 6, 2021 19:00:37 GMT 1
Well I've started it up and i am very very happy.  It has instantly made me biased and got me thinking about all the mods we do on our clutches. (chasing our own tails?) Not sure where to begin but here goes. Firstly i degreased 6 Standard old friction plates and fitted them into the clutch assembly. I did this because i was afraid i might get some oil leakages and didn't want to ruin my new dry plate frictions. No leaks so far. I started it up and apart from the noise, i instantly noticed the rear wheel was still. This was the first surprise, i grabbed the wheel and give it a spin and it reacted normally and stopped again. The dry clutch has no influence on the drive when in neutral. The clutch lever action at present has the same amount of resistance as fresh air. One finger operation, this wont last long. At present i think the preload on the springs is too light. I'm pretty sure this clutch will slip when given a handfull but it was dark and raining when i gave it a test drive. It pulled away like normal but i was concentrating on the action etc. Only a pootle tonight. The second surprise is the gear change. Not sure what to say Super Slick! maybe too slick as it changed gear as soon as foot touched it. This engine has none of the gear mods just bog standard Yamaha parts. Selecting neutral is so easy it's almost telepathic. The action has changed so much it's hard to describe. I will probably start to cringe now when i read new posts where someone has modified the gear change star. I want one for my road bike now Ive got some video and will post it up later. |
|
|
|
Post by peddrotzr on Dec 6, 2021 19:54:28 GMT 1
Congratulations a top job👍
Now stop messing about and get on with the Bakker build. 🤪
Best regards
Johnny C
|
|
|
|
Post by wallcraft on Dec 6, 2021 21:26:06 GMT 1
Top work Tony, well done. Major steps forward there. Clutches are so difficult to get right on modified motors, been going round in circles with mine☹️
ATB Mark…
|
|
|
|
Post by Tobyjugs on Dec 6, 2021 21:26:28 GMT 1
If i posted this correct if you click on the picture it should lead you to the video on my Flickr page.  |
|
|
|
Post by marrcel on Dec 6, 2021 21:31:19 GMT 1
I am glad to see some pictures of your progress. How did you made the dry casing?
My 8 plate clutch is finished but not installed. Before i change the 7 plate clutch i will test some stiffer springs first.
|
|
|
|
Post by Tobyjugs on Dec 6, 2021 21:37:02 GMT 1
I am glad to see some pictures of your progress. How did you made the dry casing? My 8 plate clutch is finished but not installed. Before i change the 7 plate clutch i will test some stiffer springs first. It's just a drum welded into the normal casing. |
|
|
|
Post by Yogi on Dec 6, 2021 21:47:27 GMT 1
That looks and sounds superb Tony 👌
Best you get making some 👍,,err that’s after you finish the Bakker Beast 😂
|
|
|
|
Post by Tobyjugs on Dec 6, 2021 22:02:51 GMT 1
Thanks Matt this is the test bike for different things i make or have ideas about. The Bakker engine is complete and ready to roll so i dont want to open it up. Once i'm happy with the clutch it will be fitted into the Bakker engine with a different modded clutch casing. It will be more open for cooling.
|
|
|
|
Post by steve63 on Dec 11, 2021 11:41:05 GMT 1
I rebuilt my R1 gearbox with one new selector fork and 4or 5 gears. I've forgotten exactly how many parts but not the cost! Anyway, when It was all back up and running again there wasn't even a hint of a clunk when I put it in 1st gear and riding it the gearchange was so light. Could it be with yours everything is like brand new again? Great work BTW.
|
|
|
|
Post by Tobyjugs on Dec 12, 2021 23:39:30 GMT 1
I rebuilt my R1 gearbox with one new selector fork and 4or 5 gears. I've forgotten exactly how many parts but not the cost! Anyway, when It was all back up and running again there wasn't even a hint of a clunk when I put it in 1st gear and riding it the gearchange was so light. Could it be with yours everything is like brand new again? Great work BTW. Hi Steve most of the parts were already used in this engine. The parts that were diferent was a longer input shaft with a different ratio 1st gear, the 1st gear on the output shaft (not so keen on this as it runs on needle bearings) and two new primary gears, i also used all the old gearbox bearings. The R1 has a different method of clutch disengagement which may create less drag between the plates. I believe that it transformed the gearchange because there is no clutch drag from the oil btween the clutch plates. When Kees drove the bike he was also surprised about the clutch action and commented on how sensitive the gear change is. The 4LO from Kees uses standard clutch parts except for the plates and springs which are heavier or a stealth locker if he goes sprint racing. He has what i call a normal gear action for an RD. I don't find this bad at all, the eight friction plate clutch i made is almost the same, but i just can't compare how it now behaves with the dry clutch fitted. I had plans to put the selector drum and gear shift lever on bearings to help with the action. I'm glad i didn't do it now. I've ridden about 120 km with it now so i will open it up soon and take the side cover off for an inspection to check for strange wear patterns etc. The problem is i really want one now for my road bike. The covers are easy to make but its the input shaft and primaires that are the challenge. I also ended up making a clutch holding tool. When i went to tighten my clutch nut up i was thinking about you and your clutch holding tools. Here's what i knocked up just using a pillar drill and some nuts and bolts.   |
|
|
|
Post by Tobyjugs on Dec 12, 2021 23:43:49 GMT 1
I rebuilt my R1 gearbox with one new selector fork and 4or 5 gears. I've forgotten exactly how many parts but not the cost! Anyway, when It was all back up and running again there wasn't even a hint of a clunk when I put it in 1st gear and riding it the gearchange was so light. Could it be with yours everything is like brand new again? Great work BTW. Talking of costs i was looking at the price of R6 exhaust valves. The valves are made from titanium with a special coating. They are 120 euros a piece. Long live the two stroke |
|
|
|
Post by mouse on Dec 13, 2021 1:43:19 GMT 1
Bloody genius Tony, that is an amazing achievement, well done!
Mouse
|
|
|
|
Post by Tobyjugs on Nov 11, 2022 17:29:39 GMT 1
I just thought i would make a small up date on the dry clutch. So far it's worked very good even though it has a slight leak onto the outer most set of friction and steel plate. I've ridden roughly 3500 km with it including one Classic TT with 3 separate demo's For a 70PK engine with 52 n/m torque its using 3 purple colour coded Yamaha springs which are very weak and 3 yellow colour coded springs which i believe are the standard YPVS clutch springs (these feel heavy compared to the purple springs). With these springs the clutch is not grabby and the lever is very light and smooth. There is no slip even with that very small leak and the gear change is very sensitive (bordering on too sensitive) Next year it will be transfered to the 443 engine after an inspection of the input shaft and first gears. The 400cc engine is running a set of 2.5:1 primary gears. This means i'm running a 15/41 sprocket set up but it's good on the road and a little sluggish for a short track. I really want this in the 443 engine. Oh it really sounds like a sack of loose bolts being jiggled until its in gear under load.  |
|
|
|
Post by elsiefan on Nov 12, 2022 2:20:30 GMT 1
I just thought i would make a small up date on the dry clutch. Oh it really sounds like a sack of loose bolts being jiggled until its in gear under load. I used to ride a Ducati in the late 80's with a dry clutch and remember that noise well! It never slipped once though. |
|
|
|
Post by abar121 on Nov 12, 2022 13:17:10 GMT 1
I remember pulling up next to a VJ23 with it's dry clutch rattling away. Lovely bike. Nice update on the dry clutch |
|
