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Post by fatfreddy on Nov 12, 2018 17:28:29 GMT 1
The bad news is that I have a rather dented LC2 tank that a local specialist has deemed uneconomic to repair. The good news is that I also have a quite a good 86 onwards (F1?) tank that came with my LC2. I don’t suppose anyone has a decent LC2 tank they would like to swap for my later tank? Here is a pic of the good tank. It is dent free and looks in decent nick inside too. More pics available on request.
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Post by fatfreddy on Oct 13, 2018 22:11:04 GMT 1
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Post by fatfreddy on Sept 23, 2018 23:13:48 GMT 1
Cheers. Looks like I’ll leave them alone.
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Post by fatfreddy on Sept 23, 2018 19:02:41 GMT 1
I had a senior moment when re torquing my head nuts and set the wrench to 42 ft lb instead of 22...
Whilst doing them up I thought to myself, this feels a bit tight, so I stopped before the wrench clicked and, luckily, before snapping a stud. Cured the coolant weep a treat it did...
Now, the question is, back them off and re-torque to the correct setting or leave well alone?
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Post by fatfreddy on Sept 23, 2018 18:51:18 GMT 1
I’ll try that. Cheers!
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Post by fatfreddy on Sept 22, 2018 15:16:03 GMT 1
Riding to the garage for the first post resto MOT I noticed a funny noise from the rear wheel when riding over bumps. Some investigating revealed that the is the large washer that sits inside the circlip (shown in the pic) that moves around and rattles against the circlip. Now for the stupid question, is it supposed to do that?
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Post by fatfreddy on Sept 10, 2018 7:54:19 GMT 1
Cheers! I’ve done two. It sounds good but I do have a slight coolant leak at the front, between the barrel and the head. I’ve tried tightening the head bolts to 25 ft/lb. This improved things but didn’t fix it so I guess I’ll try another gasket.
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Post by fatfreddy on Sept 9, 2018 23:28:51 GMT 1
Can anyone provide guidance on what sort of running in is called for after a complete rebuild?
Cheers!
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Post by fatfreddy on Aug 30, 2018 20:51:15 GMT 1
So I verified that the correct float bowl was on the carb with the choke and fitted the balance pipe and, with a squirt of easy start, got it going! Thanks for all the help.
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Post by fatfreddy on Aug 28, 2018 19:36:56 GMT 1
I have managed to leave the balance pipe off. Haven’t got to the garage to fit one yet but am curious whether that is fatal to starting success?
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Post by fatfreddy on Aug 27, 2018 22:26:16 GMT 1
I am pretty sure I do. I kept each carb separate in its own tray when rebuilding but I guess there is a chance they got swapped around. How can you check?
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Post by fatfreddy on Aug 27, 2018 21:51:16 GMT 1
I have and the plugs are rather dry... Can’t work out why fuel wouldn’t be getting to the cylinders though. Any ideas?
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Post by fatfreddy on Aug 27, 2018 21:35:16 GMT 1
So today I rolled the LC out of the garage for the first time after my first ever ground up rebuild. It has rebored barrels, new pistons and rings, rebuilt crank and all new seals, ultrasonically cleaned carbs with new jets and gaskets but the bloody thing won’t start! There is fuel in the float bowls and fat spark. I’ve also confirmed that the float heights are correct.
All syggestions gratefully received!
Cheers!
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Post by fatfreddy on Feb 3, 2018 23:37:08 GMT 1
Adjusting the actuating mechanism and loosening the pressure plate bolts a bit did the trick.
Does anyone know how tight these bolts should be done up?
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Post by fatfreddy on Feb 3, 2018 17:09:13 GMT 1
I have just finished my first LC engine rebuild.
I assembled the clutch as per the instructions in the Hayes manual and put the cover with the actuating mechanism on but pulling the lever does not engage the clutch.
Taking the left hand engine side panel off and pressing directly on the clutch shaft similarly has no effect.
I took the right hand side cover off and removed the pressure plate to check everything and it seems in order. The steel ball is present and correct as is the mushroom rod and everything moves freely.
I then put the pressure plate back on and have the same issue...
I am reluctant to put fluids in and start her up without knowing that the clutch works as it should but am thinking that perhaps starting engine is necessary to get there...
My ignorance is profound and would very much appreciate a steer!
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Post by fatfreddy on Feb 1, 2018 19:07:13 GMT 1
Thanks for the info. The tank (and the bike) are still at my brother's place in Sweden as, for some reason, he is being unreasonable and has not yet agreed to come visit and bring the bike.
If it is the later tank I may well sell it to get some cash towards the repair of the original one.
The previous owner said the bike was started and run regularly so should be ok, although I will probably end up rebuilding it.
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Post by fatfreddy on Jan 31, 2018 1:27:54 GMT 1
It was a fully fuelled, petrol engined heavy duty strimmer apparently. It starts and runs so I may just ride it for a while before a gentle restoration. No plans for a hybrid though. Here is a pic of the spare tank with the flush cap.
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Post by fatfreddy on Jan 29, 2018 23:45:25 GMT 1
Had being the operative word...
Not quite. A strimmer, stored hanging from the sellers garage ceiling, fell and hit the tank... Doh!
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Post by fatfreddy on Jan 29, 2018 23:31:24 GMT 1
Tried upload again.
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Post by fatfreddy on Jan 29, 2018 22:52:39 GMT 1
With the LC nearing completion, I happily came across this on the Swedish Gumtree. My brother who lives there collected it for me yesterday. Decent price too. Only downside is the dent in the tank. Any idea if this might be repairable? It came with a spare tank but it has a different, recessed fuel cap which I am not wild about.
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Post by fatfreddy on Jan 16, 2018 8:40:11 GMT 1
I’ll give that a try. Cheers!
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Post by fatfreddy on Jan 15, 2018 23:10:30 GMT 1
When I failed in my efforts to bleed my front brake, I took the master cylinder apart and found it all gummed up and nasty. There seems to be a bit of corrosion at the bottom of the bore but what I don't know is if this means I should be ordering a new master cylinder rather than a rebuild kit.
Any advice appreciated!
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Post by fatfreddy on Dec 29, 2017 0:33:55 GMT 1
Thanks for the tip about the RS250 disc. Any idea what thickness adapter is required?
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Post by fatfreddy on Dec 16, 2017 22:59:15 GMT 1
AFC-50 it is. Cheers!
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Post by fatfreddy on Dec 16, 2017 16:00:36 GMT 1
So I have had my cases and fork lowers vapour blasted and they now look very lovely indeed.
I’d now quite like to keep it that way once the bike (eventually) gets back on the road and was wondering about the best way to do this. Should I lacquer or just drench them in AFC-50?
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Post by fatfreddy on Oct 28, 2017 21:23:41 GMT 1
Tsr vapour blasting service Sevenoaks Carl +1! TSR did a great job on my cases and assorted other bits.
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Post by fatfreddy on Oct 21, 2017 14:44:51 GMT 1
Any plans for a stainless version? The results you have had with these pipes is impressive. The midrange gains is exactly what I'm after for my Fahron 370 build but I am torn because I really like the look of the stainless Tygas...
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Post by fatfreddy on May 7, 2017 21:41:14 GMT 1
All sorted! Many thanks for the help.
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Post by fatfreddy on May 7, 2017 11:43:17 GMT 1
So I have managed to mess up the installation of the headstock bearing cup on my LC restoration. As can be seen from the pic, the cup has seated on one side but not the other. So the question is: introduce frame to a hydraulic press and force it to seat on the other side too; or remove the bearing cup and start again? Knowledgeable advice gratefully received!
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Post by fatfreddy on Jan 14, 2017 18:35:28 GMT 1
Hi,
I am rebuilding my 250 engine during the long wait for my 370 barrels to come back from Fahron. I am now doing the (stock) carbs and was wondering what jets to use. Any suggestions?
I will be keeping the standard air box and pipes.
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