|
Post by fatfreddy on Jul 10, 2021 20:43:33 GMT 1
Plugged the Zeel back in today, just on the off chance and the bike started second kick! Went for a ride and, at the end, used the kill switch to stop. Tried to start again and same problem. Realised that I’d done the same thing the first time the problem appeared so I unplugged the power supply to the Zeel, plugged it back in and it fired straight up again.
I can only conclude that using the kill switch to stop the engine causes the problem, god only knows why. Will be using the key going forward!
|
|
|
Post by fatfreddy on Jun 23, 2021 0:02:26 GMT 1
Er, yes. I did check that.
|
|
|
Post by fatfreddy on Jun 19, 2021 19:08:00 GMT 1
So, the good news is that I removed the Zeeltronic, plumbed the stock CDI back in and the spark is back! The bad news is that the thing still won’t start!
|
|
|
Post by fatfreddy on Jun 8, 2021 19:25:53 GMT 1
Well, I disconnected the black and white wire and still nothing so I guess it’s not the kill switch. Also plugged in the Zeeltronic programmer and it showed no error codes. I’m at a loss...
|
|
|
Post by fatfreddy on Jun 6, 2021 18:22:48 GMT 1
I went for a ride about a week ago and the bike (4L1 with a 370 conversion and Zeeltronic) ran beautifully. Came home, put the bike in the garage and this morning when I took it out it would not start, which it usually does second or third kick. Checked that the ignition was indeed on, the kill switch not on stop and the fuses. All good. Then pulled a plug and established that there was indeed no spark.
Electrics are a dark art as far as I’m concerned so suggestions as to what the problem might be gratefully received.
|
|
|
Post by fatfreddy on Feb 6, 2021 11:34:38 GMT 1
Does anyone know if he is back at the old Nottingham address? I need to return a couple of bits and don’t want to send them to the wrong place.
|
|
|
Post by fatfreddy on Jan 30, 2021 9:37:22 GMT 1
I had a 1290 SA and really liked it. I much preferred it to the 120p GS I had before. Only just swapped it for a Superduke GT as I decided I preferred something built entirely for the road as I was never going to venture into the dirt.
I’ve now had a 990 Superduke, a RC8, a 1290 Superduke, the 1290 SA and now the GT. There have been a couple of niggles but these have always been sorted by helpful KTM dealers without quibbles, on the 990 even though it was a year out of warranty.
|
|
|
Post by fatfreddy on Dec 3, 2020 23:12:52 GMT 1
Has anyone found a products that works as a trim for the screen and tailpiece of a 31K? I really don’t want to pay £37 for the two genuine Yamaha little bits of rubber.
|
|
|
Post by fatfreddy on Dec 3, 2020 23:05:23 GMT 1
I was wondering the same thing. Been trying to contact him for over a week without success.
|
|
|
Post by fatfreddy on Nov 1, 2020 23:31:21 GMT 1
Err, how can I tell if it’s on standard bore? Is there a number on the piston crown? No number = standard 64mm Any number is the oversize as in 25 in 0.25mm 150 is 1.5mm over Steve Cheers! I checked and both barrels are on standard bore so I may get away with it.
|
|
|
Post by fatfreddy on Nov 1, 2020 18:47:24 GMT 1
Drill out the rivets They are just normal rivets Steve This. I didn’t when I had my LC frame done and I am now minus that plate. I learnt my lesson and have removed it from my 31K from that’s just about to go off for powder coating.
|
|
|
Post by fatfreddy on Nov 1, 2020 18:40:31 GMT 1
I've had one like that before and it was trash A 0.5mm groove needs a minimum +1mm to clear it out If it's standard bore fine but if it's near 1mm over ... Steve Err, how can I tell if it’s on standard bore?
|
|
|
Post by fatfreddy on Nov 1, 2020 14:25:38 GMT 1
After much stopping and starting and having almost become resigned to never getting the bloody barrel off, I had one more attempt yesterday and with much heat and pipe freezing spray and it finally yielded! And once off it revealed this. A partial big bore courtesy of a circlip that had made a bid for freedom... I guess a rebore is on the cards.
|
|
|
Post by fatfreddy on Jul 19, 2020 17:53:03 GMT 1
Thanks all. I am trying to find an XJR400 or SZR600 wheel but haven’t managed. Thought of a mito wheel as there seems to plenty of them about.
|
|
|
Post by fatfreddy on Jul 18, 2020 0:11:29 GMT 1
Does anyone know if they fit a ypvs swingarm?
|
|
|
Post by fatfreddy on Jun 28, 2020 8:12:17 GMT 1
It's my foot, not my head lol Not used the fzr front end but should be simple enough. Only thing I'd say is a lot of fzr's were 18 inch rear and the later 17 inch ones I think are 20mm spindle and 5 inch rim which is a bit too wide I've done 2 now using fzs 600 fazer forks. (May even have a spare pair shortly) Even the earlier non preload adjustable ones can have the cnc Chinese preload adjusters fitted. In the rebuild section you can see the set up in my "leftovers" build Stem needs shortened by 20 mm but you just get a machine shop to cut the threaded sections and plain section for the bearing cut 20mm further down then 20mm cut off the top You can use the fazer top yoke or xjr 400 which have clock mounts Both use risers and normal bars Lets you slot the wheel/discs brakes etc straight in with a small mod on an rd400 Speedo drive Rear wheel I've went for early xjr400 which is a 17mm spindle and uses the narrower 1kt sprocket carrier. The wheel is 17 x 4 so takes a 140 or 150 no prob. Think 4.5mm offset front sprocket sorts the chain run I've also done fazer forks/yokes with spoked front wheel and fz600 swinger with rear spoked wheel but that was not for the faint hearted Steve Steve, I’m thick... Can you explain the stem modifications a bit more? Also, will a FZS600 rear fit the standard ypvs swing arm?
|
|
|
Post by fatfreddy on Jun 28, 2020 7:52:39 GMT 1
Excellent! Many thanks.
|
|
|
Post by fatfreddy on Jun 27, 2020 22:52:25 GMT 1
|
|
|
Post by fatfreddy on Jun 23, 2020 23:27:33 GMT 1
I’ve had a few days away from the workshop. I’ll report on progress soon!
|
|
|
Post by fatfreddy on Jun 21, 2020 20:15:34 GMT 1
I had my 4L1 (with 370 Fahron conversion, Zeel ingnition and Mutt’s mid range pipes) set up on the dyno in February and it ran a treat and, for the most part, still does. However, it has developed a stutter at around 7k in the higher gears. Any ideas what might be causing this?
|
|
|
Post by fatfreddy on Jun 19, 2020 18:25:03 GMT 1
That’s a great suggestion! I’ll give that a go. Cheers.
|
|
|
Post by fatfreddy on Jun 19, 2020 18:22:21 GMT 1
Well a simple solution is see first what is available. And Stock steel swinger isn’t heavy at al. If you want a bit of originality, keep the steel swinger and take rwu forks. I wanted fully adjustable suspension and blue spot brakes and 17” wheels. Fazer 1000 43mm rwu discs mudguard mastercyl 300€. Reason this is cheap is everybody want convert to usd. So rwu is cheap and original looking. Szr660 Rearwheel disc hup caliper 75€ R6 shock 40€. New heavier spring 75€ That sounds like a good call!
|
|
|
Post by fatfreddy on Jun 19, 2020 15:00:33 GMT 1
I did remember to remove the nut. 😃 It required the use of a splitter but came away in the end.
And, funnily enough, it’s the right hand outside stud that’s the problem...
|
|
|
Post by fatfreddy on Jun 19, 2020 11:18:50 GMT 1
So my 31K is now stripped (apart from the barrel seized onto the stud holding it to the crank case - see post in Help section...).
It will be getting a long stroke crank and Mutt’s pipes and the question no is whether to go stock or hybrid for the running gear.
I don’t want to change much but I am tempted by 17 inch wheels, a lighter swing arm, modern rubber, better brakes and improved forks.
I don’t have an engineering shop in my basement so advanced modifications/fabrication is off the table and any non standard parts would need to fit with a minimum of modifications!
So, in light of this, what says the collective wisdom of the forum?
|
|
|
Post by fatfreddy on Jun 19, 2020 11:06:20 GMT 1
Thanks for the tips.
AFC 50 soaking didn’t help and neither did heat followed by cold water. Am now trying POR 50 rust remover (don’t have any detox c) and, if that doesn’t work, the sledgehammer may come out!
|
|
|
Post by fatfreddy on Jun 17, 2020 22:33:20 GMT 1
So I am stripping my 31k engine but can’t remove the right hand barrel as one of the studs has corroded so badly that the barrel won’t budge.
I got the nut off using a splitter but the barrel will not release its grip on the stud despite lots of penetrating oil, heat and bashing with a rubber mallet.
I can get purchase on the barrel with a large screwdriver but I am paranoid about using too much force and damaging the case. Any suggestions?
|
|
|
Post by fatfreddy on Jun 15, 2020 22:02:00 GMT 1
Beautiful!
|
|
|
Post by fatfreddy on Jun 15, 2020 21:56:13 GMT 1
This is a very impressive project!
|
|
|
Post by fatfreddy on Jun 15, 2020 21:53:48 GMT 1
Looks great.
|
|
|
Post by fatfreddy on Jun 15, 2020 21:44:41 GMT 1
Lovely looking bike.
|
|