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Post by philmill on Jan 23, 2018 17:32:23 GMT 1
Depends what your looking for, I used a van service when I got the 31K off Fozzy, £77 from Wales to Hampshire but I had to give them a 48hr window to do it. Bike arrived nicely strapped in and driver was A1, he was doing a planned round trip I believe. If its of any used let me known I'll dig out company details.
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Post by philmill on Jan 20, 2018 23:16:53 GMT 1
Dusty, I've seen the pics of your bike, it is a very nice machine, done with taste and class I'd say.
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Post by philmill on Jan 20, 2018 9:26:07 GMT 1
Hi Dusty, yes I too like the original LC clocks, but they are pretty pricey these days, but an option for sure. Did you have yours on an LC2 with the nose fairing on? no problems room wise? I suppose as the project comes together some of the look will be dictated by other parts. I'm currently trying to see if I can fit MT03 wheels, I fancied something different.
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Post by philmill on Jan 19, 2018 17:29:13 GMT 1
So I'm thinking about clock options for the 31k, I really don't like the look of the kidney set and thought about a Koso or something similar but I had a thought about RGV original clocks, has anybody fitted them, do they work even? other option is to fit the later F2 type but how to I get over the electronic tacho? what runs that and is it possible to change? Thanks.
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Post by philmill on Jan 18, 2018 20:02:58 GMT 1
Thanks, I like your thinking Jon, the problem with with Nigel is he cant take any more work until summer he told me. I guess I'll try and get something made up.
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Post by philmill on Jan 18, 2018 19:29:35 GMT 1
Thanks Mouse, yes very helpful, I can see he's drilled and tapped the bottom yoke so thats easy enough, looks like the top yoke may be more work than I thought but still relatively easy I think.
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Post by philmill on Jan 18, 2018 9:54:45 GMT 1
Hi guys, whats the general idea for changing or modifying steering stops on RGV yokes? is it best to cut off old ones and weld new? I don't really want it to look like a bodge so all suggestions welcome. Thanks.
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Post by philmill on Jan 17, 2018 23:56:45 GMT 1
I like your thinking, I would love to have been able to ride mine for a bit, but being an import means MOT, so no way its being ridden for a while, a long while!
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Post by philmill on Jan 16, 2018 23:13:24 GMT 1
Very nice.
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Post by philmill on Jan 16, 2018 22:20:33 GMT 1
Coming along nicely, are they RGV wheels?
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Post by philmill on Jan 16, 2018 11:12:00 GMT 1
Thanks for the Info Dusty.
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Post by philmill on Jan 15, 2018 21:33:18 GMT 1
Gav, ghansk, Ive sent a PM
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Post by philmill on Jan 15, 2018 17:48:29 GMT 1
Hi mouse, any chance you can show mw how you made the brackets to mount the fairing/headlamp frame? I can quite see on these pics. Thanks.
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Post by philmill on Jan 15, 2018 10:55:49 GMT 1
I did think the brackets were an option, I guess once the horns etc are in place you cant see any extra brackets.
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Post by philmill on Jan 14, 2018 21:14:53 GMT 1
So I know a few have fitted RGV forks on their LC2's so how did you get around the fairing fitting, the yoke clamp bolts are in a different place than Yamaha yoke. It looks like if One made a bracket to go across the front of hte yoke it would be in the way.
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Post by philmill on Jan 14, 2018 12:40:02 GMT 1
One trick Iearned was to just move the lever enough to slightly move the master cylinder piston, this lets the air come back up the line, in fact you can actually bleed the whole system this way without even undoing a bleed nipple. I was shown this as a spotty young lad on a dealer trip to Honda in Chiswick back in the good old days, the other way on really tough one, but it needs a lot of care is to blow air back up the line from the bleed nipple, Honda brakes were bad for bleeding, I remember spending hours trying to get 400 Dream (not Superdream!) to bleed, this trip saved a lot of grief over the years.
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Post by philmill on Jan 13, 2018 19:39:58 GMT 1
It does look good on that YPVS I must say, I am going to see if I can still get it and keep if for later.
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Post by philmill on Jan 13, 2018 19:35:06 GMT 1
Hi Dusty, so the leak kit, that just checks rings and piston does it? I guess crank seals too?? would you recommend doing it before stripping an engine too? just thinking about this motor I have got, sounds sweet and bores look good through the exhaust ports, I am going to strip for vapour blasting and painting anyway. Can I buy one of the kits from eBay, they seem to have them listed for specific bikes.
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Post by philmill on Jan 13, 2018 19:27:10 GMT 1
I dropped a mail to NK, he says he's only done one and that was years ago, he thinks the work could cosy up to 450 quid and cant do anything until the summer so maybe I'll rethink that idea.
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Post by philmill on Jan 13, 2018 19:24:42 GMT 1
I either use Triple S or DR Coatings in Romsey, Hampshire. Dave there is a top bloke and does a great job for little money. Had loads of my stuff done there. I've never come across DR, thats close to me, hows his work and is he quick?
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Post by philmill on Jan 13, 2018 10:48:57 GMT 1
Thanks Budgie, the problem is that all the seat fixings and panel fixing are gone too! I think I bought a dud...... frames seem to be stupidly expensive and repairing this unless I can get the whole frame is probably beyond my capabilities. I'll wait and see what bits you have. Thanks.
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Post by philmill on Jan 12, 2018 19:12:48 GMT 1
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Post by philmill on Jan 12, 2018 17:54:12 GMT 1
I have just seen a picture of a LC2 frame and it seems there is quite a lot missing from the frame, I guess its the bits that fit the side panels etc so I may have a few problems with this, anybody able to send me a decent close up of the section so I can see whats missing. Thanks.
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Post by philmill on Jan 12, 2018 16:37:56 GMT 1
Hi Gavin, That would be fantastic, I'll keep my fingers crossed. Cheers.
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Post by philmill on Jan 12, 2018 13:02:52 GMT 1
Hi guys, so I've been playing this morning with my new toy, she runs and sounds great so hopefully engine work will be kept to a minimum, or at least until I start playing at a later date. I will be stripping the motor and having it vapour blasted and painted to look pretty though. But for now have larger issues, the bike has a seat/tail unit fitted and to do this the end of the subframe has been cut off, I have posted on the wanted section hoping somebody has the missing bit but my question is how difficult would refitting this be? I assume there is no major alignment issues and as long as its true to the eye it would be enough?? Or am I being too hopeful. Hopefully pics are attached. IMG_1404 by Philip Millard, on Flickr IMG_1403 by Philip Millard, on Flickr I assume these brackets are not original? IMG_1405 by Philip Millard, on Flickr
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Post by philmill on Jan 12, 2018 12:29:36 GMT 1
Hmmm, not so sure now, but it look shorter than the RGV ones, doesn't look like the wheel is so far back, I may still look at it as an option.
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Post by philmill on Jan 12, 2018 10:17:41 GMT 1
Thanks headcoats. Anybody know what make the pipes are?
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Post by philmill on Jan 11, 2018 21:36:52 GMT 1
So the bike is now happily tucked in my garage, I have found a pair of RGV VJ23 forks for it and think I can get a TZR250 3ma swinging arm, has anybody fitted one of these, I quite like the look of it, a bit old school with the bracing underneath. Hopefully pics attached, this was the bike Fozzy had for sale. flic.kr/p/XUhNcL
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Post by philmill on Jan 11, 2018 20:38:38 GMT 1
Hi jonw, I have seen your posts on the RZ forum, I notice how many guys seem to have used R1 forks on there, they must be rock solid! I think I have got a set of VJ23 forks lined up now so front end could be sorted.
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Post by philmill on Jan 10, 2018 11:08:30 GMT 1
Hi, Mouse, you really have stunning machine there, if my LC2 hybrid looks anything like as good as yours I'll be a very happy boy. Can you tell me what that new swinging arm is off? and is it the same length as the RGV? I'm still slightly worried about the RGV arm, in some angles it just looks very long to me. But I still have not sen one in real life. Thanks.
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