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Post by Shytalk on Feb 24, 2013 19:48:05 GMT 1
If they are that hard to get out it's most likely because they are rusted in place and therefore scrap. Try heating them gently and turning whilst pulling on the linkages, pressing them out is good if you have access to a press. Otherwise its brut force with a lump hammer, like I say most likely rusted beyond repair so mullering them out might be the only way. NK does replacement linkages, or I have a minty set if you need them.
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Post by Shytalk on Feb 23, 2013 21:38:37 GMT 1
Well if there is nothing untoward seen up the exhaust ports then I'd put it down to bad plugs. If there was an oil issue there would be signs of scoring on the barrels. Starting up without taking out for a proper run can just clagg the plugs up. 10 fags in a petrol station too
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Post by Shytalk on Feb 22, 2013 12:19:12 GMT 1
Pity its been left outside - it won't sell at the asking price thats for sure; as theres too much non standard on it for a restore and too expensive to hybrid.
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Post by Shytalk on Feb 22, 2013 12:12:10 GMT 1
That's coming along nicely Steve, time does disappear on the seemingly small jobs. If you get a moment can you take a picture of the tool bag & contents please, would like to check what should be there.
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Post by Shytalk on Feb 20, 2013 18:09:42 GMT 1
If you want to use mechanical then put the drive in the cases, or have you already built them up? I have a complete mechanical drive assembly if you want to go that route.
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Post by Shytalk on Feb 20, 2013 10:51:15 GMT 1
I think sand blasting is too abrasive, you'll get too much alloy removed that it'll take ages to get back to normal.
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Post by Shytalk on Feb 14, 2013 15:44:08 GMT 1
Hi all just a idea as is used on some engines iis it worth using the correct torque, run the engine up to temperature and check the torqe again That is what Yamaha recommend as standard.
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Post by Shytalk on Feb 14, 2013 15:41:08 GMT 1
Hi Mark no gasket needed for the thermostat it seals on the rubber seal around the thermostat If you're lucky it will, I had to use some Yambond around the edge of mine because it wouldn't seal with the rubber seal alone.
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Post by Shytalk on Feb 14, 2013 13:07:06 GMT 1
Denzil, sounds like a busy weekend in store I would not be too hasty to double the torque settings on the head or you'll be taking the engine out again to repair either cracked head or broken studs, I would 100% use a torque wrench but maybe up it by a couple of pounds tops, just because this mechanic has done it like that forever doesn't mean its correct, he's just been lucky or more likely over exaggerating how tight he does them.
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Post by Shytalk on Feb 14, 2013 11:15:31 GMT 1
Used to be a one man show based in a lock up, loads of old lathes and engine parts lying around - looks like he's relocated to newer site, I was going to get a rebore done by him but when I saw the premises I decided to use PJ in Wolverhampton instead.
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Post by Shytalk on Feb 9, 2013 19:38:53 GMT 1
Kostas, on your model the right side footrest does not stay up.
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Post by Shytalk on Feb 9, 2013 13:20:49 GMT 1
I know Norbo does do them, I might have a couple of decent ones, also found a screw for the inner mudguard, its not quite the right one, it has the right head and thread but isn't pointy sharp ended but flatter ended and about 3-4mm longer than the pucker one.
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Post by Shytalk on Feb 9, 2013 13:16:43 GMT 1
2 things really, 1 - it does say in the listing if you have no feedback then email him - drop him a mail, you'll then be able to bid. 2 - as suggested by a couple of cheap BIN items to get yourself started on the feedback ladder.
The other thing as marsbar says is it doesn't pay to be in a rush to get the purchases in, as ebay look at account activity and can suspend your account if they think you're dodgey.
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Post by Shytalk on Feb 8, 2013 19:01:42 GMT 1
You been twiddling Norbs, cos its better for me now, no blank space on the RHS ;D
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Post by Shytalk on Feb 8, 2013 12:29:42 GMT 1
That took some re-reading to understand Norbs I see what you mean though, I have a block of emptyness, marble colour over on the RHS of my screen.
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Post by Shytalk on Feb 7, 2013 11:35:46 GMT 1
The screw is part number 97701 - 60116 - most likely superceded but should still be available at pence, I've had a look but don't have a spare one else I would have given it to you. The bars must have been replaced previously, quite a few of the replacement ones are too short
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Post by Shytalk on Feb 6, 2013 20:21:38 GMT 1
OK I have learnt my lesson - ask the pro's first :-) my bike does not have matching keys :-( the helmet lock is different. I also have bought some keys on eBay to fit but haven't chosen the a n c or d type yet. I believe some genius on the forum can sort all the barrels to match. My ignition isn't the best. Is it possible to buy a NOS ignition and get the rest to match?? As always your help is greatly appreciated :-) Yes they can all be made to have 1 key fit, you might be able to get a better chrome surround for the ignition, unless its more than the top thats fubar'd.
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Post by Shytalk on Jan 30, 2013 13:49:43 GMT 1
Indeed so, I think that bikes like that are too individual to achieve that sort of money.
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Post by Shytalk on Jan 27, 2013 15:19:08 GMT 1
I just buy a cheap lead acid from local dealer. You can let it go flat and they re charge fine ( try that with one of the new fangled ones) and after a few years when it's knackered just bin it and buy another cheapo. Steve Have to disagree Steve, I bought a new cheapo one for my F1 a couple of years ago - it got discharged through lack of use and forgetting to connect up to an optimate, now is junk as it won't accept a charge at all.
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Post by Shytalk on Jan 23, 2013 18:57:33 GMT 1
Undertaken by a pedal bike too
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Post by Shytalk on Jan 22, 2013 10:57:24 GMT 1
Does anyone know if the LC connected blocks are available separately? Unfortunately you can't get the original connector blocks, Yuniparts make some similar but not 100%, but if you have a couple of looms to play with then you might be able to swap connectors across, it depends on what state they are in in the first place.
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Post by Shytalk on Jan 20, 2013 12:39:20 GMT 1
I understand from a friend of mine that even the Hi temp powder still comes of the down pipes . Not if you get proper high temp powder coat it doesn't, you need to find someone near you who does it, I have had a couple of sets done and never had a problem on the downpipes.
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Post by Shytalk on Jan 18, 2013 17:46:39 GMT 1
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Post by Shytalk on Jan 16, 2013 21:29:44 GMT 1
The indicator stems should all be short ones. The exhaust bushes need to be pressed in, bung the new ones in the freezer overnight to help shrink them a tad, also you'll need to remove the remains if the previous ones from the hangers, best way is to cut them out carefully with either a junior hacksaw of if you have a steady hand a dremel, the outer edge is the bit that needs cutting through.
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Post by Shytalk on Jan 16, 2013 10:01:48 GMT 1
Hi Jeff, I have the same set as you - a 99 Fazer 600 and an early 83/84 YPVS, welcome aboard ;D
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Post by Shytalk on Jan 15, 2013 16:42:51 GMT 1
Is this a big show? I went to the Winter restoration show and it was tiny Its usually quite small really, not great value for the entry price.
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Post by Shytalk on Jan 12, 2013 14:10:52 GMT 1
Yes, just keep an eye on the oil pump cables unless you disconnect it first.
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Post by Shytalk on Jan 8, 2013 17:17:49 GMT 1
I don't think many people do fit them, and as you see the shim only covers about half of the piston.
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Post by Shytalk on Jan 8, 2013 17:15:11 GMT 1
Is there a reed switch connected behind the speedo, as the circuit needs that as well.
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Post by Shytalk on Jan 5, 2013 11:40:58 GMT 1
Oil coming from left hand Crankcase cover on my valve. Seems to be coming from neutral switch cover. Two cracks on two of the three mounting screws. Are these a weakness? Yes, but only if you overtighten the screws.
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