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Post by jon on Jan 21, 2013 20:10:02 GMT 1
I'm sure this has been covered may times before, but what is the best way of going about the difference in electrics?
I am building an LC with TZR forks, swingarm and wheels; and will get it on the road with a 350LC engine I have rebuilt.
However I've got the bug, and bought myself a YPVS engine to rebuild and fit later. So I have a few questions please:
1) The later (all?) YPVS engines have an electronic tacho, which means no mechanical cable for the LC clocks. What Yamaha tachos are electric and can be fitted inside LC clock covers?
2) I'm thinking an aftermarket YPVS controller is the best way to go (Zealtronic)?
3) Ideally I'd like to keep the LC loom and switchgear. However would I really be better of running a YPVS loom and switchgear in the long run?
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Jan 21, 2013 21:16:44 GMT 1
Never been done sorry we can't help you ;D Be nice to the newbie lol 31k Lc2 YPVS had mechanical tacho. This can be fitted to the later 1UA/1WT engine although not the 4CE as it does not have the hole for the drive in the top case. Think you would be best using the original LC loom but use a zeel combined CDI and PV controller which can be mounted wherever you like and make a small loom for the pv servo. You can use ypvs loom and gear but the wiring points are not in the right places. If you look through the hybrid lc builds you can see little things like mounting the servo. Steve
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Post by jon on Jan 21, 2013 21:41:28 GMT 1
It's a 4CE engine, so the tachometer drive cannot be retro fitted. I'm not overly bothered about original LC clocks, just a similar symmetrical design.
Finding mounting positions for servo controller and servo is no big deal. Just want to start down the best loom route.
Most seem to mount the servo beneath the coil. So I might even make a bracket before I get it on the road to make it easier later.
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Jan 21, 2013 22:00:37 GMT 1
It's a 4CE engine, so the tachometer drive cannot be retro fitted. I'm not overly bothered about original LC clocks, just a similar symmetrical design. Finding mounting positions for servo controller and servo is no big deal. Just want to start down the best loom route. Most seem to mount the servo beneath the coil. So I might even make a bracket before I get it on the road to make it easier later. If you totally strip the motor you can get the case machined for the tacho drive. It's just the hole is not in the top case. Problem with fitting the ypvs tacho in lc cases is you lose the temp gauge. Other option is full YPVS loom and electrics from later YPVS and use N style clocks. Steve Steve
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Post by jessy03 on Jan 21, 2013 22:04:19 GMT 1
I've done a couple if you need any pictures, personally I would use YPVS electrics but you will need to alter the wiring for the clocks, I just ran after market digital clocks to get over that problem. Also go for a Zeeltronic fully adjustable, easy to wire up and should be more reliable than the 20 odd year old original units. Good luck Jess
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Post by jon on Jan 22, 2013 8:18:15 GMT 1
Thanks guys for the useful information. It is what I see as the reason for existence of the forum. Without it a lot of people would have to learn the hard way.
Purely for contingeny (knowing 2 strokes) I wanted to be able to swap either engine quickly, so really wanted the loom to remain.
Thanks Midlifecrisisrd for mentioning the different loom points (very useful).
Jessy03 what clocks did you use (I really want to stick to the Yamaha parts bin - any pictures of clocks?).
Knowing this I think my route forward is measure the loom branch lengths of the standard LC. Get hold of a YPVS wiring diagram and find out what extra is needed. I could then build a hybrid loom at a later date to fit once.
Does anyone know if the LC connected blocks are available separately?
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Post by dusty350 on Jan 22, 2013 8:30:54 GMT 1
I built my hybrid with an F2 engine. Retro fitted a cable tacho drive from a 31k as I wanted to keep the Lc clocks. I used a complete F2 loom and switch gear and with limited electrical knowledge, everything works. Took a bit of time mating the Lc clock wiring to the valve loom but not too difficult, just trial and error. I recently bought a Hybrid that uses an Lc loom with F2 clocks wired in so thats another way it's been done. Unfortunately both bikes are buried at the mo as I am modding my garage, but I have the wiring hints for the clocks if you ever need them.
Dusty
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Post by Shytalk on Jan 22, 2013 10:57:24 GMT 1
Does anyone know if the LC connected blocks are available separately? Unfortunately you can't get the original connector blocks, Yuniparts make some similar but not 100%, but if you have a couple of looms to play with then you might be able to swap connectors across, it depends on what state they are in in the first place.
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Jan 22, 2013 11:03:23 GMT 1
Zeel would be best option if you will be changing over engine as it can be adjusted accordingly.
As for the connectors a few of the odd ones cannot be found. I simply cut off the connectors that the zeel was fitting to and bought new connectors off ebay to suit. Would let you have 2 different engines with 2 different stators that would just plug in to the loom.
Zeel also has 2 different tacho outputs, 1 for the YPVS tacho and 1 which give 1 pulse per turn of the engine so any tacho can be driven. Also got shift light output and quickshift capability.
Might be worthwhile adapting the 4ce motor for tacho anyway. Don't know about you but I don't like a strange engine, always like to know what's inside. Don't like surprises banked over on full throttle. Worth the piece of mind for the price of a gasket set and a pair of crank seals at least.
Steve
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Post by jon on Jan 22, 2013 21:12:10 GMT 1
Thanks everyone for their input.
Reading everyones comments, it seems there is no best way, only a wrong way.
Shame Shytalk the exact connector cannot be sourced, however you got me thinking really I don't mind getting it on the road now as original LC, then making a hybrid loom later after the YPVS engine is built and changing connector over from the original LC switchgear.
I totally agree with you Midlifecrisisrd about being wary of s strange motor. The fact it is from an RD350R doesn't make it strange in my eyes, but by your tone I guess your warning me about an 'unknown' motor. Rest assured it will have a full strip and rebuild (crank rebuild (already done), rebore & pistons, clutch plates, bearings & seals & gaskets at the very least).
I have been playing/using 2 strokes enough to know they are extremely fun, but also not to be relied upon.
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