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Post by Shytalk on Apr 24, 2013 9:34:33 GMT 1
Don't forget too that back then as well as being newer they were the main mode of transport. Now they are a hobby, we choose to ride them, and they are decades older as are us and some are a bit wiser, so we like doing things as they should. Back in the day what did your tool box have in it compared to today???
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Post by Shytalk on Apr 24, 2013 9:26:40 GMT 1
Yes the parts list is wrong on this - as Steve says the bracket bolts directly on to the bottom yoke.
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Post by Shytalk on Apr 23, 2013 20:13:10 GMT 1
You could get that welded but is probably worn. Was it NK or stan stephens that offered boring it out and fittind a thin bush. I'll have a look if I have a pair of valves. Steve It was Stan
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Post by Shytalk on Apr 23, 2013 14:24:46 GMT 1
Castellated seal most likely do-able but if its the O ring then no the head and 1 X barrel will need to come off.
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Post by Shytalk on Apr 22, 2013 8:51:06 GMT 1
Not nice Denzil, I thought you'd finally got it all sorted, just as well you still have my clutch tool I suppose.
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Post by Shytalk on Apr 19, 2013 8:06:29 GMT 1
Got to agree with Bare this time......... if everything you have replaced is known good then the loom has a broken connection. Daft / obvious question though, if you remove the PV end cap can you move the valves manually, ie are they seized or not, having said that you can just plug in another PV motor and hold it in your hand to check if it works.
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Post by Shytalk on Apr 19, 2013 7:54:55 GMT 1
Whats the main differences then Norbs
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Post by Shytalk on Apr 18, 2013 13:05:48 GMT 1
There was 1 parked up on the roundabout above the M60 on the Middleton turn off yesterday afternoon, pointing down on the motorway.
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Post by Shytalk on Apr 15, 2013 20:38:20 GMT 1
FFS
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Post by Shytalk on Apr 15, 2013 12:00:11 GMT 1
It does look like there is no cog inside the pump body, difficult to see properly, if it is missing then you will need to replace it but it won't be a spare part available from a dealer, best bet is either see if Arrow on here can repair it for you or swap / trade with him, or buy a second pump to use. The only spares available from the dealer will be the seals and gaskets.
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Post by Shytalk on Apr 15, 2013 11:46:03 GMT 1
Allens is a decent place for the carb spares. I wouldn't worry too much about the valves cycling intermittently at this point then, they get the signal to move from the CDi so it could just be a spurious signal whilst trying to kick it over.
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Post by Shytalk on Apr 14, 2013 9:38:28 GMT 1
Sorry to but in but no ones mentioned the powervalves, when your trying to start they do cycle sometimes, so no elec gremlins, also try leaving the air box rubbers off until you sort the carbs, then refit to fine tune after Power valves should cycle each time you turn the ignition on, 2 problems to look at. Is the battery charged? plus check the connections at the fuse itself, and at the servo motor block for corrosion for starters, either way this won't have any effect on your starting problem.
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Post by Shytalk on Apr 11, 2013 19:08:13 GMT 1
Hiya, will a fork brace from a ypvs fit a w reg 250 lc ? Cheers No - forks are smaller diameter on the 250
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Post by Shytalk on Apr 11, 2013 19:06:41 GMT 1
They both go on the worm, one on the end - sort of just sits there and the other mid way down it.
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Post by Shytalk on Apr 7, 2013 15:35:56 GMT 1
Yes you can drill the bleed nipple bits out BUT you need to be careful and slow, remember that the lower part is tapered and if you drill into that you won't get a bleed nipple to seat correctly. You could try heat and a stud extractor. As for the pin, heat it, get a decent allen socket and put the caliper in a vice, as long as you have a decent unrounded allen head it will come off - but you'll need to use a ratchet driver on it. I have a good LH caliper if you knacker the drilling.
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Post by Shytalk on Apr 6, 2013 15:21:34 GMT 1
You can use early type YPVS 1 pot calipers. They are very similar to LC calipers, just that they have a more sophisticated floating mechanism. Just bolt them on, no mods required! That's what he's got
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Post by Shytalk on Apr 6, 2013 11:00:41 GMT 1
Which side is gone and what has gone on it?
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Post by Shytalk on Apr 5, 2013 17:43:14 GMT 1
Which type are you after
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Post by Shytalk on Mar 28, 2013 16:09:45 GMT 1
C J WARD in Burton are good, I have used them on many occasions.
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Post by Shytalk on Mar 26, 2013 13:20:53 GMT 1
I replaced mine ok on the same bike, thought the small washers would take most of the strain. not cracked so far Its not the mudguard that was the issue but the fairing.
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Post by Shytalk on Mar 26, 2013 13:18:44 GMT 1
Congratulations Steve, thats a super job, I hope that all your effort is appreciated
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Post by Shytalk on Mar 25, 2013 11:29:19 GMT 1
Steve, I should have some spares knocking around, I'll have a look tonight.
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Post by Shytalk on Mar 21, 2013 20:44:42 GMT 1
Either dremmel it or get a junior hacksaw blade and go slwly throught he metal of the damper then screwdriver it out once the edge is cut.
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Post by Shytalk on Mar 19, 2013 19:28:08 GMT 1
integral part of the throttle cable unfortunately, although it is removable.
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Post by Shytalk on Mar 17, 2013 18:34:50 GMT 1
It sits / clips underneath the rectifier area, there should be a small flat tang facing fowards on a frame tube that the rubber grommet around the throttle splitter part slides into.
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Post by Shytalk on Mar 15, 2013 13:18:22 GMT 1
Paul was a really great bloke too.
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Post by Shytalk on Mar 11, 2013 20:24:51 GMT 1
This is what N clocks look like for reference:
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Post by Shytalk on Mar 11, 2013 20:04:49 GMT 1
You won't find a listing for it as it comes as part of the top cover
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Post by Shytalk on Mar 9, 2013 9:28:58 GMT 1
Andy, I think you need to loose the sharp corners at either side, round them off and it'll look even better IMO, seat looks good too.
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Post by Shytalk on Mar 7, 2013 20:10:36 GMT 1
Probably someone has upgraded some or all of the clutch springs, only way to tell will be to open it up and look though.
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