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Post by cb250g5 on Feb 24, 2022 9:36:55 GMT 1
If I had my time again, I'd go for some of the square insert tooling, as you get 4 goes before it's scrap.
I have quite a lot of triangular ones, so 3 goes for the cash.
The long thin diamond shaped ones are good for getting into tight places, but 2 goes & it's in the bin.
My parting off tool uses 1 shot blades, and they don't last long, the double ended one above looks like a better idea.
If you crash your lathe, either by taking too big a cut or running the tool post or similar into the chuck, something needs to give, or you'll break something expensive. So a joined belt, not too tightly tensioned isn't a bad thing whilst you are learning your new lathe. My Myford has a habit of loosening the nuts that hold the 1/2 nut operating lever in the off position, so now and again the carriage sets off towards the chuck on its own. I'm in the habit of checking after using it that they are still tight, but it caught me out a time or 2 when I first got it. One day I'll fix it....Maybe.
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Post by cb250g5 on Feb 23, 2022 23:28:37 GMT 1
I buy the inserts from aliexpress 10 or 20 at a time. Long wait, but cheap enough to not matter. They're not Kennametal quality, but sharp enough to begin with and cheap enough to use as disposable items. Any links at all for these? EG www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?SearchText=carbide+inserts
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Post by cb250g5 on Feb 23, 2022 17:08:39 GMT 1
I grind the odd HSS tool, for one off speciality jobs, but otherwise I'm on indexable carbide tips. I need to make a trepanning tool - for brass, not my head. I'll do that in HSS.
I buy the inserts from aliexpress 10 or 20 at a time. Long wait, but cheap enough to not matter. They're not Kennametal quality, but sharp enough to begin with and cheap enough to use as disposable items.
10mm tooling is not that rigid, compared to the bigger stuff, but then again we can't take huge depth of cuts with these little lathes, so does it really matter? I have a couple of 12mm holders for when it does, and with the corners cut off the toolholders I can use 1/2" HSS, of which I seem to have a lot.
The lathe I used at night school 15 years ago or so, took 1" tooling and easily cut chips that looked like quavers. I seem to remember taking 1/8" cuts, so reducing the diameter by 1/4" at a time in some stainless bar stock. Nice piece of kit, but a many horsepower 3 phase motor.
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Post by cb250g5 on Feb 23, 2022 9:25:21 GMT 1
I've retrofitted both the lathe & the mill with Chinese 240V 3 phase motors & VFDs. The VFD's can take an optional external pendant, so I've made these up with backwards / forwards switches and speed control etc. I also fitted a "jog" control to the mill, for when I'm using it as a drill press. The mill has an emergency stop button, but I didn't bother with the lathe, as it has a clutch in easy reach.
I have the T37 sized QCTP on the S7. I made a further 12 tool holders, the dovetails were a proper pain on my old mill, would be much easier now. The trouble with the myford is the lack of height difference between centre of the lathe and the top of the compound. So I have milled the bottom corner off the tool holders to allow them to hang below the compound a few mm, so 12mm tools are now possible, but only if the QCTP is square on the compound. Every bit helps.
If lottery win happens any time soon, I'd go for the multifix style of QCTP, but the holders and spendy, and not easy to make your own.
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Post by cb250g5 on Feb 20, 2022 10:55:08 GMT 1
That's why I have a £600 KE125 project to do. I enjoy the build & making parts, so I can't justify the cost of another LC based project. My valve cost £400, MOT'd and running & I added a £50 FZR250 chassis to make my mild hybrid. Was 15 years ago or so though.
The KE is on the back burner for a while, as I'm attempting to fabricate a new radiator for the 1927 Scott. Not easy.
Sadly the KE appears to have been a field bike for many years, so although it is complete, it's an amalgam of many not quite matching parts. I've made new wheel spindles & swinging arm spindle, as they were all wrong / butchered. Last job I did was rebuild the wheels, after noting the offsets etc. What I should have done, of course, is check that the rims were central in the bike before starting. I now have a nicely rebuilt front wheel, with the rim about 1" offset from the centre line of the bike. Ho Hum, I'll take measurements & do it again.
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Post by cb250g5 on Feb 19, 2022 19:29:18 GMT 1
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Post by cb250g5 on Feb 15, 2022 19:58:21 GMT 1
On the subject of books (I'm ignoring that lovely workshop above) what do people like / use?
I have a few of those workshop practice series, I find them pretty good, the screwcutting one was useful for cutting a LH Acme thread, and I'm currently working my way through the gear cutting one.
However the book I couldn't be without is my 1955 edition of the Machinery's Handbook. 15th edition. One of the better ones, as it still has Whit and other Brit threads and sizes in it, as well as the new-fangled AF series. Does cover Metric stuff, although in 1955 there's at least 3 different standards, International, German & French.
You can get it as a PDF but at almost 2,000 pages of small type & tables, I find it fascinating to dip into now & again. Maybe I should get out more.
Had to cut a Morse taper a while back, all the info in the book.
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Post by cb250g5 on Feb 15, 2022 9:54:39 GMT 1
I had to make new pinions for one of my Burnard chucks. I went for 7mm and the chuck key fits OK. I guess 1/4" originally, but plenty of slop.
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Post by cb250g5 on Feb 14, 2022 19:36:53 GMT 1
Some nice kit here!! I rarely used the lathe in the workshop until I purchased the RD! I had this old Drummond brothers unit that did ok, had it limits so updated a Chinese variable speed mini lathe at Christmas, seems good enough. Anyone know anything about the Drummond Brothers lathes? Lathe by chris tring, on Flickr cN lathe by chris tring, on Flickr www.lathes.co.uk/drummondroundbed/
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Post by cb250g5 on Feb 14, 2022 12:51:09 GMT 1
Big subject this.
If you need your work to be concentric with the bit held in the jaws of the chuck (to within a few thousands of an inch) you need to use a independent 4 jaw chuck and dial the work in.
If you need the work to be just concentric with itself, IE you're going to part it off outside the chuck, then a 3 jaw is fine, so long as you don't remove the work from start to finish.
Of course if you're just making a rear wheel spacer etc, it doesn't need to be super accurate & it doesn't really matter.
Best advice is to invest in a dial indicator and a dial test indicator on suitable bases for your lathe & have a play. The run out on scroll chucks will vary depending on the size of the bar they are holding.
As always more accuracy costs more money.
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Post by cb250g5 on Feb 14, 2022 12:43:28 GMT 1
I think the later gold / silver spots have stainless steel pistons whereas the blue don’t. Blue - mild steel & often rusty pistons. Silver - Reputed to be stainless, I had one on my TDR, was definitely mild steel and rusty. The stainless replacements for blue spots fit fine. Gold - Aluminium, and very thick walled. I have one on my valve. A nice solution to the rusty piston problem.
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Post by cb250g5 on Feb 13, 2022 17:45:59 GMT 1
I'm having to Google an awful lot being so new to all this 🤣 When I bought the CUD I had the choice of the AUD with the gearbox but my thinking was that I wasn't going to do much thread cutting and the gearbox would be another complication and something else that could go wrong At least with the change gears they are simple and with the right gears it's possible to cut imperial threads with the metric lead screw Just had to Google knee mill 🙄 Turns out that's what I've got from Mutts lol I don't have the space either for the mill but what the hell, same price as a tiny Sealey one Pity the courier was a tw4t and bust the power feed and DRO. Insurance claim for £700 being processed now 🙄 Steve Ah yes, a knee type mill allows you to move the work up & down. On mine only the head moves, and unusually for a mill the round column on mine allows the head to turn, so for any given job I really need to set up in a way that the head doesn't have to move at all, just use the quill. It has advantages & disadvantages, depending on what you're doing. I have a full set of change gears for the Myford, so can set it up to cut pretty much any thread, using the 8TPI imperial lead screw. It's currently set for 20TPI as I'm making a new radiator for the Scott and that's the thread on the filler & cap. However it's pretty oily in the gear case, so I won't change it back before I'm finished, so I've lost the auto carriage drive feature. I have 3, 4 and 6 jaw scroll chucks and a 4 jaw independent, as well as a quick change tool post with 15 or so (self made) tool holders, so I'd have to think long & hard before changing it.
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Post by cb250g5 on Feb 13, 2022 16:22:09 GMT 1
I also have a Myford. In my case a mark-1 Super-7. I opted for change gears rather than a gearbox, as I regularly need to cut imperial as well as metric threads.
The only thing I don't like about "hobby" lathes is the fact the leadscrew is either set for thread cutting or carriage drive. I'd really like a smallish lathe with separate shafts for these functions. However I have so much tooling and accessories for the Myford it would be a wrench to change.
I also have a Taiwanese copy of an Enco round column milling machine. Good enough for me at the moment and doesn't use the sort of room that a Bridgeport takes up. A mill with a knee is on the wish list for when I get a bigger workshop. Awaiting lottery win etc.
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Post by cb250g5 on Feb 6, 2022 23:17:38 GMT 1
Depends where you live too. When I was in Sussex we had quite a lively local group. Now I'm in Lincoln, there's nowt, not even a local rep. Tried with another bloke to set a section up, but no takers, so I quit & saved the cash. In the VMCC too, saves more on insurance & 1,000 bikes than it costs to join and has a 1/2 way reasonable magazine.
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Post by cb250g5 on Feb 3, 2022 15:09:12 GMT 1
For £20k you could have a Zero. Bet I get some -ve comments now, he says, ducking for cover.
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Post by cb250g5 on Feb 3, 2022 15:04:20 GMT 1
My valve, which I've owned for more than 15 years, has a badly restamped set of Brazilian cases. It's been restamped to match the frame & original engine number.
However in the previous owners defence, or the owner before him I think, I do have the receipt from a breaker for the motor.
I wish that they hadn't bothered, but I can live with it & don't consider it devalues my bike, but then again I have no plans to sell it. If I ever do sell it, I'll make it clear in the advert.
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Post by cb250g5 on Feb 2, 2022 9:34:02 GMT 1
I do like the look of that front wheel. It's nice kit, and much lighter than the F2 one, never mind the 31K boat anchor. Also I picked up the complete FZR rolling chassis for £50, so was a no brainer compared to, say RGV stuff. Still too narrow for radial tyres though.
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Post by cb250g5 on Feb 1, 2022 22:19:15 GMT 1
Nope, 17" FZR rim, fork lowers yokes etc. The FZR tubes were rusty, so I swapped the tubes from the F2 ones. Bolted into the F2 headstock perfectly, no spacers needed. I suspect the RZ250R used the same or very similar stuff. Old picture here www.dropbox.com/s/8a5fzjdgipkyou3/DSCF1489.JPG Also has the FZR rear end in, so no nasty suspension bushes through the swinger and a 17" wheel. Needed a small amount of work to fit, long time ago now, but new dog bones and maybe a bit of narrowing, but relatively easy. That's great. I love the single disk setup too. What swingarm is that? Doesn't look like a 2KR one. It's a 2KR one.
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Post by cb250g5 on Feb 1, 2022 19:17:32 GMT 1
Just to understand this better your mod was with a standard YPVS rim? Nope, 17" FZR rim, fork lowers yokes etc. The FZR tubes were rusty, so I swapped the tubes from the F2 ones. Bolted into the F2 headstock perfectly, no spacers needed. I suspect the RZ250R used the same or very similar stuff. Old picture here www.dropbox.com/s/8a5fzjdgipkyou3/DSCF1489.JPG Also has the FZR rear end in, so no nasty suspension bushes through the swinger and a 17" wheel. Needed a small amount of work to fit, long time ago now, but new dog bones and maybe a bit of narrowing, but relatively easy.
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Post by cb250g5 on Jan 31, 2022 23:55:01 GMT 1
For what it's worth, I have F2 uppers and FZR 250 2KR lowers. I think all the 35mm Yam stuff of that era swaps around without any issues.
So I have a single 320mm disk and 100mm between centre caliper mounts, so a blue spot, or in my case a gold spot caliper bolts on directly.
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Post by cb250g5 on Jan 30, 2022 14:57:04 GMT 1
I've got pound-shop reading glasses dotted all over house, garage & workshop. Need distance glasses for driving / riding. Trouble is I can't read the dashboard, so I've got varifocals in the car. Work really well. Tried to walk in them once. Won't be doing that again in a hurry, the ground kept moving up and down as I moved my head.
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Post by cb250g5 on Jan 25, 2022 18:13:40 GMT 1
I eventually got £5k for my carbon TDR. TZR wheels & standard pipes, so not quite as nice as that one, but it was a struggle to sell. I know the new owner, on the IOW, had it back up for sale within a year or so. They're an odd bike, a didn't really gel with it. This one www.dropbox.com/s/h8by9k54hz53819/100_2485.JPG
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Ffs
Jan 25, 2022 18:10:08 GMT 1
Post by cb250g5 on Jan 25, 2022 18:10:08 GMT 1
Ok, here goes I've had it with work 😖 I've had to listen to a Google meeting for an hour, drive an hour to spend an hour servicing a customer, had lunch, drove to second customer to find the place closed down last year Now got to drive home then listen to another 30 minute meeting 😤 I've worked from 17 to 53, is that not enough 🙄 Just one of those days. Easy but can't be arsed Better things to be doing 😭 Steve I retired at 53, never looked back.
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Post by cb250g5 on Jan 20, 2022 13:35:35 GMT 1
I worked with a bloke with a fairly modern Korean car, can't remember the exact make / model. It was an auto. On his drive home on a Friday, about 100 miles in, the auto box started playing up & wouldn't go into top. This happened week after week. In & out of the garage. In the end they got the Korean tech support guys over, with lap tops & logic analysers etc, to watch the can bus as they drove round & round the M25.
They fixed it in the end, they changed the radio head unit out and all the can bus issues went away. What chance would a home mechanic have of finding / fixing issues like this.
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Post by cb250g5 on Dec 15, 2021 19:35:20 GMT 1
Ooh - slip rolls. You don't live anywhere near Lincoln do you? I have a job coming up where I need to roll some brass.... Not too far im in Hull let me know 👍 Will do. Month or so away, at best. Thanks
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Post by cb250g5 on Dec 15, 2021 9:28:38 GMT 1
Ooh - slip rolls. You don't live anywhere near Lincoln do you? I have a job coming up where I need to roll some brass....
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Post by cb250g5 on Oct 17, 2021 9:32:24 GMT 1
My Tesla is fabulous. It's the future.
I'd love to try an electric bike, but they can't crack the range issue with current (no pun intended) battery technology.
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Post by cb250g5 on Oct 3, 2021 12:42:39 GMT 1
Very cool. Tiny front brake!
Doesn't work at all. If it did, it would bend the forks. Possibly useful for a hill start, as it has a foot clutch, so I can't use the back brake and set off. Remember, back then many roads were unmade or gravel. You wouldn't want a front brake that worked too well, or you would be on your ear. Back one surprisingly effective, given the shoes are only about 3/8" wide, but it is quite light (at least before I get on it).
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Post by cb250g5 on Oct 2, 2021 22:44:00 GMT 1
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Post by cb250g5 on Sept 25, 2021 20:23:40 GMT 1
My Tesla Model 3 arrived on Thursday, 3 months earlier than they reckoned. Think I may have got a cancelled order, but right colour, spec and tow bar. I'm loving it, and get to put a smug grin on as I pass the queues at the petrol stations. Wish I'd filled the bikes up though, 4 bikes and only the 1927 Scott has more than 20 miles of fuel left in it. Did you see that program where Guy Martin drove from Lands End to John O'Goats? and he reckoned he could of done it cheaper in a diesel rather than the electric car he used? But if you cant by diesel or petrol or the ques are a mile long.... you are golden Yes I did. Although I like local boy Guy, and his programmes, I think that one was poor. I get about 4 to 4.5 miles per KWH. A KWH costs me 15p at home (soon to be 5p with Octopus Go) or free if I'm charging off the solar panels. If I use the Tesla superchargers it's 30p a KWH. So if fuel is aprox £6.00 per gallon, I get 20 KWH at a tesla supercharger or 40 at home, soon to be 120 for my £6.00 So at 4 miles per KWH, that's the equivalent of 80 MPG, 160MPG or 480MPG.
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