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Post by cb250g5 on Apr 8, 2024 11:55:05 GMT 1
It's a race bike really, but you can make it more road friendly should you wish. My Bonnie is 66 so right foot gears as is my pre 65 trials bike which then makes my brain hurt if I ride the modern Gas Gas..so much in fact I shall sell the Gasser. I'm thinking about A65 bars, one of the top yokes I have has handlebar mounts. The rear sets aren't that far back, so I don't think I need to find all the touring peg stuff. Nova do a 5 speed set of internals for the box - this would make it much more road friendly, but it's £2k + VAT. It's the upside down change as much as the right hand side stuff that makes me stop & think. Jumping between bikes is a real headache. So I have 4 bikes now on the road. Goldie, RH change upside down 1927 Scott 2 speed, combined clutch & gear lever, on the right, behind the footpegs, R brake on the left behind the footrest 1928 Scott 3 speed, hand change on right of tank, clutch where you would expect it, R brake on the right in front of footrest. 1977 Z650 all normal. So no 2 the same at all.
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Post by cb250g5 on Apr 8, 2024 9:52:58 GMT 1
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Post by cb250g5 on Apr 8, 2024 9:07:49 GMT 1
25 miles and my wrists scream enough is enough
It's the gearbox that makes it hardest to ride though, it still has the RRT2 box, so a close ratio 4 speed unit, R H change, up for down etc. It's pretty flat under 3,000 revs or so, but will rev to 7,000. The modern crank & Carillo style rod is good for 7500 apparently. So you're slipping the clutch in 1st until almost 30MPH, and can easily see 60 before the change to 2nd. Each subsequent gear adds another 15MPH or so.
It also has an original Amal GP carb. No tickover circuit at all, no needle in the way of airflow, just a 1.5 inch hole, designed to be used wide open as often as possible. Real pain in traffic.
It is currently leaking oil like the Ammoco Cadiz, I think a number of felt and cork seals have given up the ghost after a year or two of inactivity, I'll re-seal it this winter. It should be oil tight - it's not a triumph.
My mate who I got it off lives in Wales, it's not well suited for their blanket 20MPH speed limit, so now it's my problem.
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Post by cb250g5 on Mar 31, 2024 21:39:44 GMT 1
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Post by cb250g5 on Mar 31, 2024 19:07:06 GMT 1
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Post by cb250g5 on Mar 31, 2024 18:26:12 GMT 1
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Post by cb250g5 on Jan 7, 2024 14:39:26 GMT 1
I had a contract at a small Swedish owned IT / Telecoms company that got bought up by Fujitsu Services.
I left.
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Post by cb250g5 on Jan 5, 2024 13:16:29 GMT 1
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Post by cb250g5 on Jan 5, 2024 8:48:45 GMT 1
Retire as soon as possible, would be my advice, did it in my early 50's, never looked back, we only get 1 go at this.
My boss was a real t**t though. Drove me on way too hard. Shouldn't really complain, I had my own company.
My brother died at 51, made me re-evaluate things.
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Post by cb250g5 on Jan 4, 2024 7:45:08 GMT 1
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Post by cb250g5 on Jan 3, 2024 20:52:03 GMT 1
Can't say I think much of their 2 stroke pipes, but I have to say the stainless DK 4:1 for my Z650 fitted like a dream and has good welding too. Presumably built in a different Chinese sweatshop.
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Post by cb250g5 on Dec 13, 2023 13:14:55 GMT 1
At the risk of banning, this sounds like a good idea to me. In mitigation may I add that I have never, and never will , ride a Superdream. I used to buy cheap 250 superdreams and thrash them to work & back, 20 miles each way, in any and all weathers, park them outside. Disposable motoring. Then I got a 400 version. I have to say it was a revelation. Clearly the motor the rest of the heavy, slow POS was always intended to have. It was decently quick, faster than a 400/4, both acceleration & top end. I kept that a few years, until it finally expired of neglect & rust.
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Post by cb250g5 on Dec 13, 2023 8:52:31 GMT 1
I had a MC14 rolling chassis, many years ago. Looked at putting a valve engine in, no chance.
Way too short, from rear of frame to front wheel, I could have used the exhausts as lock stops for the front wheel.
I don't know if the later chassis are any different.
I still have the full body kit and tank etc in the loft. I collared someone on a stand full of 250 race reps, they reckon I may have the only one in the UK, so no market for the bits.
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Post by cb250g5 on Dec 12, 2023 9:13:07 GMT 1
Sold it, after 16 years of ownership. Depending on the circumstances, commiserations or congratulations. Oh, congrats I think. I've moved on (or backwards I suppose) to a pair of 1920's Scotts (and a Z650 and an SRX 400, then there's the KE125...). A mate of mine is also donating a DBD34 Gold Star to my overfull garage, so I'm short of space & just not riding the valve much. It's only moved 3 villages away, so I'll still see it around.
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Post by cb250g5 on Dec 11, 2023 19:47:47 GMT 1
Sold it, after 16 years of ownership.
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Post by cb250g5 on Nov 25, 2023 11:26:52 GMT 1
My advice, just for bike stuff, rather than for a general engineer, is to not buy a set. There will be loads you never use. Just buy the sizes you need. You can always add odd ones later. Better quality for the same outlay. I like the modern Presto stuff, for decent quality & affordability. This sort of stuff www.ebay.co.uk/itm/122758106793Not recommanding that seller, just an example. FWIW I have loads of 50 - 100 year old British sets of odd sizes & threads in lovely oak boxes, but then I have odd bikes.
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Post by cb250g5 on Nov 7, 2023 10:50:16 GMT 1
My '27 Scott is on 20" wheels, front & rear. Tyres are going to be a problem, luckily I do maybe 1,000 miles a year so going to be a while.
The '28 Flying squirrel is 19" rear and 21" front, so much easier, I have put roadriders on it. Look too modern, but at least they will adhere to the road.
They are a baffling mix of Whit, BSF and Cycle threads, and that's before 90 odd years of abuse by god knows how many owners.
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Post by cb250g5 on Oct 31, 2023 15:16:01 GMT 1
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Post by cb250g5 on Oct 23, 2023 17:20:26 GMT 1
If anyone fancies the slightly bigger/better brother to this one, my Super 7 is on eBay www.ebay.co.uk/itm/115949400993I'm sure I could do a deal if it's going to someone on here.
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Post by cb250g5 on Sept 14, 2023 11:48:31 GMT 1
Also check that they actually have the item. Their stock list has proven to be outdated in my experience, and they don't always have what they reckon they do.
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Post by cb250g5 on Sept 4, 2023 17:08:29 GMT 1
I'm on a single blue spot, 320mm disk and a TDR250 master (So I keep Yam mirror threads). Works great for me, and looks standard-ish.
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Post by cb250g5 on Sept 3, 2023 22:29:43 GMT 1
I'm using R6 switches Like www.ebay.co.uk/itm/166167610366Electrics were easy as well, just made up a 6 inch loom to connect into original wiring, so nothings modified and can all be put back if needed.
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Post by cb250g5 on Sept 3, 2023 14:09:27 GMT 1
My PWK's are on cable chokes, but it doesn't rev up when they are on
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ULEZ
Aug 30, 2023 18:22:26 GMT 1
rigga likes this
Post by cb250g5 on Aug 30, 2023 18:22:26 GMT 1
Congestion charge everyone pays . Ulez only charges you if your car is non compliant. EV's are exempt from the congestion charge, apart from the £10 application fee annually, until the end of 2025.
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ULEZ
Aug 30, 2023 14:06:53 GMT 1
Post by cb250g5 on Aug 30, 2023 14:06:53 GMT 1
Is the ulez different to the congestion charge? Or if you pay the congestion you Will possibly have to pay ulez as well? As I’m looking and if I were to take my car into central London they would want both? £32.50? Oh yes they are different & administered separately. My Tesla is ULEZ compliant (obvs) I don't need to do owt, I can just drive through. Presumably the cameras are linked to the DVLA. If I want to go into the congestion zone, I need to pay a tenner to apply to prove it's actually electric and therefore exempt. (I don't know why it's exempt as it causes congestion just like any other car, but I don't make the rules). However until the civil servants agree it's exempt I have to pay the daily charge. Anecdotally the process takes somewhere between 7 days and 5 months. And needs to be repeated, including the £10, annually. So if I wanted to take it in, I better start at least 5 months in advance.
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Post by cb250g5 on Aug 18, 2023 17:22:56 GMT 1
Interestingly, I'm running pink in my '28 Scott. It's not generally recommended for Scotts as it's not safe on the brass radiators, but this one has a Chinese Alloy one for now. Longevity isn't too much of an issue, as it will have all leaked out long before then. I'm just using it up, as I don't have anything else to put it in. The PO ran it on red, with a brass rad for years, as he "got it from work", and it doesn't seem to have done the rad any harm internally.
The '27 Scott with the Brass radiator is on plain tap water, drained out for the winter. If I ever get it sort of water tight I'll try the blue stuff.
All Scotts are open systems, no water pumps and no pressure caps.
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Post by cb250g5 on Aug 18, 2023 15:56:52 GMT 1
Did they not taxi the Mosquito this time?
I didn't go, due to other commitments, but it's often out for a runabout.
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Post by cb250g5 on Aug 16, 2023 16:16:54 GMT 1
I believe the YPVS Y1 and Y2 heads are 1/8 NPT and the Y3 is M10. Or something like that. Landrover one has been in mine for years, working well. I know where abouts on the gauge it normally runs, so can spot if it is getting hot in traffic etc.
I doubt any 2 Yamaha ones would give the same resistance reading at the same temperature, it's a crude sender, not an accurate measuring device.
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Post by cb250g5 on Aug 13, 2023 13:24:39 GMT 1
Yes, results are best described as variable. It's expensive to buy as well.
Does stop, or at least slow down, corrosion on stuff I've made for the workshop.
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Post by cb250g5 on Jul 15, 2023 18:49:27 GMT 1
I have 2
A '27 Super and a '28 Flyer.
The flyer will be at the LC club stand at Donnington in 2 weeks time, all being well.
It was also at Mallory today, but the wind has destroyed our tent, so we've decamped back home.
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