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Post by ringding on Dec 3, 2018 7:50:13 GMT 1
Aha, I think I've mounted that vertically behind the headstock, thanks.
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Post by ringding on Dec 2, 2018 21:03:34 GMT 1
Very close to having finished the wiring on the 4L1. But not sure if something is supposed to be mounted on the spur that is under the coils (you can just see it between them in this picture). Any clues? Thanks.
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Post by ringding on Oct 28, 2018 18:37:29 GMT 1
Just rebuilt it and it held 5psi for 10mins. No drop at all. Also managed to improve the squish to 1.1mm. Very pleased. Lesson learnt. Always use genuine Yamaha crank seals.
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Post by ringding on Oct 22, 2018 20:31:20 GMT 1
Once it's out the bike I'd think it's maybe 3 or 4 hours. Depends on your speed of working I guess. I tend to do a little at a time, as I don't tend to have time very often. There's a tdr250 strip down guide somewhere on the forum I think.
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Post by ringding on Oct 22, 2018 8:51:41 GMT 1
When the one on my tdr went it was like a smoke machine was connected to the rhs pipe.
The engine strip isn't too hard, if you have the time.
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Post by ringding on Oct 21, 2018 13:57:38 GMT 1
I stopped sulking, man'd up and stripped it down.
There is a polished line around the crank where the seal sits. I can't feel a groove though. The seals on this end of the crank aren't supposed to be handed are they?
I've ordered new gaskets and will start on putting it back together week after next. Thanks for the advice.
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Post by ringding on Oct 20, 2018 22:21:05 GMT 1
Cheers chaps. I don't really want to run the risk of having to take it back out the frame so havtalked myself into stripping it back as normal. Just a bit frustrating. I only used 5psi when presurrising it, thought that would be low enough.
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Post by ringding on Oct 20, 2018 20:36:46 GMT 1
I've built LC engines up a lot of times over the years, although not in the last 10 or so. I've never previously performed a leak down test but thought I'd give it a go out of interest, not really expecting to find any issues. Boy was I wrong! First off the joint between the carb rubbers and the reed block was leaking like a sieve on the RHS. Then I had to deal with a slight leak from my testing set up, and finally the balance tube. I was still left with a loss of 2.5psi over 5mins. Having exhausted all other options I took the flywheel off to get to the crank seal on that side, and it's the culprit. It's a new one, came with my crank rebuild, but I had the crank done a while ago and I don't kno if it was gen yam or not. Anyway, whilst I'm very impressed with the leak down test (and wish I'd known about them years ago), I'm a little despondent about having to strip the engine down again. I know it doesn't take long but my free time is hard to come by so I don't get much opportunity to work on the bike. Are there any short cuts? If I flip the engine can I get to the crank seal by splitting the cases and leaving the top end in place? I can't quite picture how it'd work. Any advice? Cheers.
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Post by ringding on Oct 17, 2018 22:04:00 GMT 1
Most now get them lacquered over but originals were laminated Steve That's what I thought. Thanks Steve.
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Post by ringding on Oct 17, 2018 20:57:28 GMT 1
I'm getting the 4L1 resprayed. I know the tank decal should be lacquered over, but should the others be laminated? Cheers.
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Post by ringding on Oct 7, 2018 21:08:40 GMT 1
I have some on my TDR too. I've been using them for 2years and they're great. I've ordered some for the LC too. I just can't get on with the standard levers on 80 bikes, the span is wrong for my hands.
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Post by ringding on Sept 29, 2018 7:31:00 GMT 1
Sorry to hear about this. I've been there, though not with my lc, so know how shit it feels. Fingers crossed you get it back.
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4L1 carbs
Sept 22, 2018 20:18:38 GMT 1
via mobile
Post by ringding on Sept 22, 2018 20:18:38 GMT 1
I think that Steve is right. Early ones may have had the 'dealer' mod done to correct the carburation though.
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Post by ringding on Sept 18, 2018 21:49:00 GMT 1
Right, I couldn't resist having a quick go. I now feel slightly stoopid! There is some end float in the clutch shaft, and when it is pulled out the splines fit flush. When the tab washer and nut are fitted it's as your picture Dusty. I'll torque it all up tomorrow after a good nights sleep (And a hard days work!). Thanks again. Nothing to see here...
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Post by ringding on Sept 18, 2018 21:36:43 GMT 1
Hi Dusty, I'd forgotten about your thread. I'll trial fit it and see how much of the central shaft protrudes compared to yours. I did change the basket whilst it was off, remove the rivets and then fit a new basket to the back gear. However when I compared the old basket and the new they appeared the same so I don't think anything is amiss there. However, if when I trial fit it it looks different to yours I'll have to quadruple check! Thanks. Paul.
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Post by ringding on Sept 18, 2018 20:50:12 GMT 1
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Post by ringding on Sept 16, 2018 15:31:50 GMT 1
Hmm. On fowlers page they're the same part number. So i think my question is then, should the splines be flush with the front of the basket?
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Post by ringding on Sept 16, 2018 15:27:14 GMT 1
It's been a while since I put one of these things (4L1) back together. With the clutch housing and basket fitted the splines are not flush with the front of the basket. Is that right? Both thrust washers are in. However they seem identical and I see from the parts sheet they are different numbers. Can anyone confirm how thick they should be please? Cheers.
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Post by ringding on Jul 13, 2018 17:02:07 GMT 1
I haven't got an original but could measure a pattern one which isn't fitted to the bike. Would that help?
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Post by ringding on Jul 9, 2018 20:51:26 GMT 1
Good purchase! I've always like the look of them. Hope you enjoy it!
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Post by ringding on May 23, 2018 22:03:01 GMT 1
I don't think that's right reedpete. I used to run my 4L1 as a 4L0 and didn't have to change the studs. The two bikes have the same stroke, it's a difference in bore that gives the larger capacity.
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Post by ringding on May 16, 2018 22:56:33 GMT 1
I had a similar situation. Bought one of my LC's as a box of bits. When I got around to stripping the frame I found that under the powdercoating was a diff number to the V5. Engine number was correct. I scrapped the frame and told DLVA. It was a PITA, as was hoping to end up with a runner but could never have brought myself to sell it on and wasn't going to put effort into something that I could never move on.
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Post by ringding on May 10, 2018 7:01:24 GMT 1
Oof. Gws. I got knocked off a few years back and broke 2 or 3 ribs. The pain was as bad as when i broke my back. Take the drugs to make sure you are breathing properly, otherwise you run the risk of getting a lung infecting and a cough. You don't want that! They took over two months to heal for me. Don't be surprised if they hurt more in a fortnight than they do now either. Hope that doesn't sound negative! Really wish you all the best with it.
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Post by ringding on Apr 7, 2018 21:12:02 GMT 1
Ooof. Hope you're not too badly beaten up. Bikes can be repaired/replaced you can't.
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Post by ringding on Mar 25, 2018 17:58:34 GMT 1
From reading Graham Bell's book these won't add anything to peak power, if your bike is already jetted for peak power. The advantage is that they should remove the part throttle 'lean stumble' which some people compensate for by running a bit more rich. Consequently, if you've done that then they offer the opportunity to lean off a bit and gain more power.
As I understand it they should aid ride-ability through giving a smoother transition onto larger throttle openings. For road riding that's probably an advantage worth paying for.
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Post by ringding on Mar 13, 2018 8:51:21 GMT 1
Not quite the same i know but i run mito wheels on my tdr. The tdr is a bit heavier than a 125 but i run diabl rosso 3 tyres at mito pressures and they are great. Get nic and warm and have been good through winter too. Theyre h rated. Mine are scrubs off ebay so cheap too.
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Post by ringding on Feb 21, 2018 23:10:46 GMT 1
Looking good!
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Post by ringding on Feb 7, 2018 22:49:54 GMT 1
I'm in south glos and have a pair you could borrow if you like. If they'd be any use then drop me a pm. Might give me an excuse for a ride out on the tdr at the weekend...
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Post by ringding on Jan 22, 2018 8:25:23 GMT 1
The one time I've done this i had to chain drill enough of the rubber out that i could then collapse the surrounding metal shell in enough to get a purchase with molegrips. They are a complete b*****d to remove. I couldn't find a puller that would work but it's definitely worth a try. Good luck.
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Post by ringding on Jan 13, 2018 16:59:20 GMT 1
Tight coils at the top.
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