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Post by looey on Feb 7, 2015 12:37:21 GMT 1
I didn't build the engine before, so I've no idea what's just been taken out  I'm hoping/assuming that as mine wasn't slipping before, re-assembling with new springs should only improve it. |
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Post by looey on Feb 7, 2015 12:29:06 GMT 1
Yeah I take the point re: the FZ plates and standard springs and keeping the clutch light etc. and if I were changing the complete clutch that's probably the way I'd go.
It wasn't slipping before it was stripped and the platess are well within their serivce limit but the springs are outside their's, so I just want to replace them.
Sounds like the 3 + 3 is the way to go in this case
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Post by looey on Feb 6, 2015 23:08:59 GMT 1
Yeah I think I will fit new anyway. It's already bankrupt me, what's a few more £££   Been reading though all the historical posts re: spring types to fit in tuned YPVS engines.......... Some saying 6x H/D will make the clutch too heavy, some saying 3x standard + 3x TZ is the best mix, some saying 6x standard will take anything you can get from a 350 YPVS ?. Decisions, decisions..........   Fitted 6 genuine in my 385 and it still slipped. 6 to too stiff 3 X tz and 3 gen fine once heated up Steve Yeah 3x Gen & 3x TZ is the way to go I think........NORBO !!!!!!!! Oh and thanks Tone for the Info., I'll add it to me Haynes  |
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Post by looey on Feb 6, 2015 22:44:51 GMT 1
Yeah I think I will fit new anyway. It's already bankrupt me, what's a few more £££ Been reading though all the historical posts re: spring types to fit in tuned YPVS engines.......... Some saying 6x H/D will make the clutch too heavy, some saying 3x standard + 3x TZ is the best mix, some saying 6x standard will take anything you can get from a 350 YPVS ?. Decisions, decisions.......... |
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Post by looey on Feb 6, 2015 19:09:37 GMT 1
Chaps
Anyone know if there's a "Service Limit" Dimension for YPVS Clutch Springs ?.
Haynes only quotes "Free Length"
Ta
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Post by looey on Feb 6, 2015 13:09:01 GMT 1
Not sure exactly which model you have but these are the Haynes manual figures.
I haven't done an early LC top end recently but I know like many others I torque my YPVS head bolts a bit more than what Haynes quote.
Early 4L0/4L1 LC = 17.0 lb ft
YPVS 350 = 20.0 lb ft (but I do mine to 23 lb ft)
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Post by looey on Feb 4, 2015 21:00:44 GMT 1
I'd deffo be checking the head bolts before doing anything else. Bought an unfinished project towards the end of last year and it started leaking coolant out the front of the head gasket when it got warm. Checked the torque settings on the head bolts and they were nowhere near what they should've been. Tightened em up to spec and all good since |
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Post by looey on Jan 31, 2015 23:54:21 GMT 1
Lol, It wasn't long ago they changed the 120g/99p Dairy Milk bar into a 110g/£1.29 bar  I've never e-mailed anywhere complaining before but cos I eat more than a just a few , I e-mailed and said WTF ? . They replied and said that they had listened to customer feedback and changed them accordingly, REALLY ? So I replied and asked how many customers had requested that they make the bars smaller and more expensive at the same time ?. Didn't get a reply to that one  |
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Post by looey on Jan 31, 2015 21:30:52 GMT 1
Could be all number of things, but doubt it would be the main jet being the wrong size, unless MASSIVELY wrong.
If it pulls away with choke and not without then it's almost deffo too much air or not enough fuel
What's the setup ?. carb (10W, 12A or 11Y), standard airbox, reeds etc.
Could be a massive air leak, incorrect float height (height would be too big, hence shutting the needle valve too early)
If you take the carb off keeping it upright and remove the float bowl, does it have a decent amount of fuel in there ?.
Have you removed and checked the emulsion tube (the brass tube the main jet screws into) ?. They often get forgotten and they have lots of little holes that imulsify the fuel with air as it passes through.
I'd also check the reeds as well.
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Post by looey on Jan 23, 2015 18:05:52 GMT 1
Agreed, that looks the dog's danglies  What's it sound like ?, does it have the nice deep note of an original Micron ?. Have you ridden it yet with it on ?. The bike will be a lot flatter upto 6k, but will then go off like a scalded Cat..... |
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Post by looey on Jan 18, 2015 22:00:20 GMT 1
Very nice , that looks like an Allspeed pipe is it ?. I know they have been making them to order with a small can Micron style end can ?. Be interesting to hear how it sounds ?. Possibly a cross between an Allspeed and Micron ?. |
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Post by looey on Jan 10, 2015 16:06:20 GMT 1
Well is has some minor road rashing (not bad though), the downpipe has some patches welded onto it (not a great job) and it has been painted black upto the point it emerges from the belly pan. On the plus side it still looks pretty cool fitted and the rear mount hasn't been messed with. Oh and I can't find the bl**dy mounting flange or spring (I have looked) but I do have them somewhere, as I removed the exhaust from a complete bike I bought fff lol The first 2 pictures are the pipe in question just before I removed it from the bike, so it is still in exactly that same condition. The last picture is my Mk1 with a modified detachable can type Micron fitted    |
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Post by looey on Jan 10, 2015 15:33:50 GMT 1
I've got a ruff one you can have for £110......lol
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Post by looey on Jan 10, 2015 14:53:11 GMT 1
That's a good result and pretty much was we were expecting after putting the gearing right Early small can Microns are pretty thin on the ground, so I'd go for either a small can Allspeed or a later style Micron with detachable end can but remove the entire end can and stinger (pipe that go into the main section of the exhaust) and just put an aftermarket 3 bolt fixing end can on like a Sterling or something. |
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Post by looey on Jan 2, 2015 21:32:40 GMT 1
Do you know how the 2 RG250's spent most of their lives, so to compare how the tanks fared differently over time as a result ?. I can undertsand different bikes/manufacturers having different thickness steel and treatments but not on identical models ?. We've got an early single disc Mk1 RG250 and the tank is also a nice clean silver inside |
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Post by looey on Jan 2, 2015 21:09:29 GMT 1
In my experience, it's mostly down to how/where the bikes have been stored through winters over their life span. If the bikes get left in cold/damp sheds & garages, then condensation forms on the inside of the petrol tanks just the same as it does on external metal parts. That in turn ends up in the bottom of the tanks and over time rots them out  . Whenever I buy an old bike, the first thing I do is drain the petrol tank and get it bone dry in there, just to make 100% sure there's not any water that's got in there over time. The main exceptions seem to be bikes that have always run on pre-mix, where the oil content helps keep the rot away. You don't often come across a rotten FS1-E petrol tank  |
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Post by looey on Jan 2, 2015 20:37:48 GMT 1
Lol yeah I think it'll be fine now thanks With all that in cr*p in there, it wasn't causing any probs, and like you said, I don't think any prep work had been done, so it all just came straight off/out . The tank is nice and silver inside now with none at all left in there. |
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Post by looey on Jan 2, 2015 19:55:37 GMT 1
I had this in one of my LC tanks earlier this year. It was all just floating about in there but not causing any problems, so I left it in there until the Autumn when I took the bike off the road to do some other stuff. By that time it had all come off on its own, so I got the tank bone dry inside, shook all the bits to the accessible side of the tank, then plucked it all out with one of those long mechanics grabber tools. Took about 2 hours to get it all out but the paintwork was never in danger at any point  . Some of it at the bottom was about an inch thick !  I can only assume a previous owner put it in there as a precaution, as the tank isn't rusty inside now it's all gone !. WTF ?......   |
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Post by looey on Dec 31, 2014 14:20:02 GMT 1
Do a search with the text "rust petrol tank" in the "with all the words" field and you'll be able to read about it all day...... |
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Post by looey on Dec 30, 2014 15:01:09 GMT 1
Jeez, sounds like this is turning into a bit of a mare, especially with your back issue not helping.  Have you thought about getting a decent work ramp ?. Best few hundred quid I ever spent in my Garage |
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Post by looey on Dec 27, 2014 15:32:24 GMT 1
Sprockets ordered, I'm wondering if I will be better off with a 350LC! No not better off, you need one of those as well |
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Post by looey on Dec 27, 2014 10:01:27 GMT 1
9 times out of 10 the rough running in the mid-range is either worn needles or the needle position is too rich.
Sometimes they only do it at a small throttle input, whereas if you throttle a bit more it will pull through cleaner.
Maybe try dropping the needle one clip, which means moving the clip one notch nearer top/end of needle (further away from the pointy end)
Great you got out for a run :-)
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Post by looey on Dec 26, 2014 14:10:06 GMT 1
I'd check the plug colour when you've got the gearing sorted and take it for a good run but that main jet sounds too big for an 11Y carb to me.
If you're running a standard tune, standard pipe and standard airbox etc., then I would think the 155 standard jet would be right.
I'm only running a 170 main with a load of mods.
Good luck
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Post by looey on Dec 24, 2014 23:55:01 GMT 1
Might make it if the weather isn't shite (supposed to be cold I think)
What times are people there ?.
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Post by looey on Dec 24, 2014 23:30:28 GMT 1
Lol.......Nuff Said ! :-)
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Post by looey on Dec 24, 2014 23:18:07 GMT 1
Yeah, let us know how you get on after sorting the gearing :-) .
I had one new in December 83 and still have great fun on mine, even after jumping straight off a 175bhp modern superbike :-)
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Post by looey on Dec 24, 2014 22:52:48 GMT 1
Cool, should just be the gearing holding it back then :-) .
Mine has an 11Y carb, 170 main, modified Micron pipe, BMC air filte element and airbox inlet nozzle removed and it flies :-)
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Post by looey on Dec 24, 2014 22:21:14 GMT 1
An 11Y carb is a European non-UK model carb. Won't be your performance problem, as it will be pretty much the same as a 10W carb, so should be running a 155 main jet as standard.
Was the bike first register new in the UK ?. Will say on the V5 on either the bottom of front page, or date first registered in the UK will be different to the date first registered new (top of page 2) ?.
I'd get the gearing put back to standard and take it from there.
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Post by looey on Dec 24, 2014 22:03:46 GMT 1
1104 works just as well and cleans off very easily with brake cleaner |
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Post by looey on Dec 23, 2014 17:20:11 GMT 1
Yeah, I think it's fair to say that most on here (including myself) would spend £20k a bit differently (if we had it !) |
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