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Post by neo on Feb 4, 2015 19:09:29 GMT 1
Ooooo not so good today (thumbs down) after having my new lc for a week I started it up and let it tick over a while then revved it up to about 6k then let revs settle then blipped it to about 6/7 k again it runs lovely, after a few blips am say about 6 it started to splitter a bit.. Ok I thought it's probably still cold and I know it's low on fuel so I just let it tick over then switched it off. The temperature gauge had not really moved at all in this process. After switching it off I heard a bubbling (faint) and a slight hiss coming from the expansion tank under the seat. If I prised the rubber top slightly I could hear pressure releasing (only slightly) this releaved some of the bubbling. Anyway I am paranoid that the head gasket has gone. I returned to the bike and opened the rad cap and smelt inside it smelt of petrol and the water looked a little oily..... I am fearing the worst.... boo hoo
My mate has a sniffer test that's the next step, further more if it detects exhaust gasses do I just change the head gasket or look deeper?? I have not even ridden it yet so I can't comment on any more as to how it rides or if it pressurises or gets hot, do I need to get the head checked? Or shall I just ride it and see what happens?
Many thanks is in advance
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Post by lcyoungboy on Feb 4, 2015 19:58:09 GMT 1
Sounds like the head gasket is gone..something similar happened to me except the top cap got blown off the expansion bottle..it was like pressurising the system or something like that..you could see it had got contaminated with oil etc..I would whip the head off..clean up the surfaces and fit a new genuine gasket..torque the head bolts..run it for a few mins.let it cool down..then retorque again.
dave
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Post by lcyoungboy on Feb 4, 2015 19:59:28 GMT 1
remove all the coolant and put some fresh stuff in also
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Post by oldelsieboy on Feb 4, 2015 20:12:50 GMT 1
Ideal opportunity to slip off the barrels & check the bores & pistons/rings.
OEB
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Post by neo on Feb 4, 2015 20:19:32 GMT 1
Thanks guys i think we're all singing from the same hymn book here... I feel another order being pinged over to nobro.... Thanks again
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Post by copper99 on Feb 4, 2015 20:23:32 GMT 1
Your paranoia could be leading you down a path you dont need to take , id put some fresh fuel in it and run it on the road for s few miles before I started taking it to bits..
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Post by neo on Feb 4, 2015 20:43:22 GMT 1
Your paranoia could be leading you down a path you dont need to take , id put some fresh fuel in it and run it on the road for s few miles before I started taking it to bits.. Thanks copper99 I am inclined to agree with you the seller seemed genuine enough just got the tax for it, about to insure it ... But I don't want to let it see the salty roads! Roll on spring!!!!! |
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Post by Tobyjugs on Feb 4, 2015 20:52:48 GMT 1
Maybe you should first check the head nuts/bolts are at the correct torque.
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Post by looey on Feb 4, 2015 21:00:44 GMT 1
I'd deffo be checking the head bolts before doing anything else. Bought an unfinished project towards the end of last year and it started leaking coolant out the front of the head gasket when it got warm. Checked the torque settings on the head bolts and they were nowhere near what they should've been. Tightened em up to spec and all good since  |
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Post by neo on Feb 4, 2015 21:33:00 GMT 1
I'd deffo be checking the head bolts before doing anything else. Bought an unfinished project towards the end of last year and it started leaking coolant out the front of the head gasket when it got warm. Checked the torque settings on the head bolts and they were nowhere near what they should've been. Tightened em up to spec and all good since Good idea! Lack of having the manual atm means I don't know torque settings or tightening sequence.... Can anyone post up this please Many thanks |
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Post by neo on Feb 4, 2015 22:05:16 GMT 1
I found a thread with 24nm torque settings, worked my way around the head 1-8 , the head was loose , quite a bit then snap! Number 6 let go!!!!!grrrr.... At first I thought it was the torque wrench b*llocks!!!!
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Post by 4l04ever on Feb 4, 2015 22:21:57 GMT 1
Hopefully you have found the issue now. Get the stud repaired/replaced and try again....
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Post by neo on Feb 5, 2015 18:00:02 GMT 1
Fired her up today no more bubbles from the header but I am minus a stud boo hoo, it snapped the thread end (top) luckily so at some point I'll change it, it ran on one cylinder up the road!!! Ticked over on two accelerated on one ... Tank off change plugs tank on, still no good, fresh fuel.. Still no good, carb tops off one side the throttle cable had come out of the slide!!! The retaining clip is missing on one side, when I reconnected it it ran fine really sweet I forgot how a fist full of first make you skyward!!! Easily!!!!! Just the annoying stud to do at some point and a retaining clip to get for the carb slide now..
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Post by Tobyjugs on Feb 5, 2015 21:48:51 GMT 1
You need to replace that stud before you go further. If you put the engine under load you will be blowing bubbles and this will only lead to further problems.
The retaining clip is also easy to get, I am sure someone will soon post an link up for you. |
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Post by JonW on Feb 5, 2015 23:00:57 GMT 1
... Just the annoying stud to do at some point... Famous last words... |
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Post by neo on Feb 6, 2015 0:28:01 GMT 1
I am looking for the cable retaining tang the other side looks different to the dodgy one as in how the car is connected to the slide, the stud I also need to source, please confirm 24nm is the correct torque I am paranoid now any more will snap when I replace the broken one .....
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Post by looey on Feb 6, 2015 13:09:01 GMT 1
Not sure exactly which model you have but these are the Haynes manual figures.
I haven't done an early LC top end recently but I know like many others I torque my YPVS head bolts a bit more than what Haynes quote.
Early 4L0/4L1 LC = 17.0 lb ft
YPVS 350 = 20.0 lb ft (but I do mine to 23 lb ft)
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Post by neo on Feb 6, 2015 16:03:07 GMT 1
thanks for that looey it converts back to near as damn it 24nm so thats sobering
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Post by JonW on Feb 7, 2015 12:18:41 GMT 1
Buy a manual and a new stud... they should arrive together |
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Post by oldelsieboy on Feb 7, 2015 12:43:37 GMT 1
Buy a manual and a new stud... they should arrive together I'd be buying a manual & 8 studs (if one has sheared the rest wont be far behind). OEB |
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Post by JonW on Feb 7, 2015 22:10:43 GMT 1
Fair point OEB.
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Post by neo on Feb 8, 2015 9:43:21 GMT 1
Went out for a couple of miles she rides ok but ... Clutch after a gear change not all the time just after a change from power an to power band oh and the speedo works but is slooooooow
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