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Post by looey on Dec 23, 2014 13:44:00 GMT 1
Yep, I know these chaps building these bike from elsewhere in the 2-stroke world and they are true gents. Hopefully it will work out for them and they can get them rolling out. I'd get them pipes swept up a bit more if it were me  |
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Post by looey on Dec 23, 2014 11:13:14 GMT 1
Hey Dusty, Just one thing I was thinking when pondering your head gasket and snapped stud problem......  Are you able to get a torque wrench with socket on all the head bolts with the engine in situ ?. I know some people can't, so result to feel on some of the bolts . I managed to find a very shallow socket out of a cheap socket set that fits directly onto my torque wrench which in-turn will go onto all the head bolts with the engine in the bike. And what torque setting have you been using for the head bolts ?. I did a lot of research on here before I did my first YPVS top end and the general consensus was that around 23 lb/ft was most commonly used ?. I thing the Haynes manual quotes 20 lb/ft ?. I know you've done all this before with other engines and had no problems, so there must be something amiss somewhere  . Hopefully it's just that stud but if it was clicking off on the torque wrench then you would think it would've been sufficiently tight ?. Just thinking out aloud in-case it helps.......don't shoot me....  |
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Post by looey on Dec 21, 2014 16:36:46 GMT 1
The thinnest smear of sealant is fine. If you put anything other than thinnest smear, it will get squashed out and possibly block the coolant passages.
If there's nothing wrong with the barrels, head or the mating surfaces on either, then they will seal perfectly well time and time again with the same gasket using a sealant.
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Post by looey on Dec 20, 2014 17:34:23 GMT 1
Yeah I know what you mean mate, that's why I suggested trying to find and try a set of "known good" carbs. Go nick Mark's carbs off the bike you sold him   |
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Post by looey on Dec 20, 2014 17:13:11 GMT 1
Have you got another set of "known good" carbs you could try on it ?.
I had almost the exact same recently on an RG250. Would run fine on choke, then would start to run progressively weaker and crappy the longer it ran off choke. I sorted than by cleaning them, setting the float heights (one was badly wrong) and balancing etc.
I know you've cleaned and checked your carbs meticulously, but there's a lot hidden from the eyes on a carb that can cause a problem.
Last year I had an X7 that I couldn't get to run right on one cylinder. I was 99% sure the carb was spot-on but as a last resort I borrowed a carb from my other X7 and it ran absolutely perfect straight away.
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Post by looey on Dec 18, 2014 22:28:42 GMT 1
All good mate, except for me crank.....did I mention my crank's knackered ?.....lol You could try that method with the sealant on the old gasket first, won't need to use the new one then ?. The genuine head gasket that just came out of mine has been used 3 times so far and never leaked  |
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Post by looey on Dec 18, 2014 22:04:35 GMT 1
If it's of any use to help, I do the same when fitting my YPVS head gasket. You can re-use a genuine gasket many times like this. Some will say "No sealant" if everything is right and a genuine gasket but depends how much grief you're prepared to "possibly" have. Barrels on finger tight only The thinnest smear of RTV clear Silicone both sides of the head gasket (only just enough to make it look wet) Head on and torqued Leave it an hour to settle Torque Head again. Now tighten barrels down Run bike for a few minutes until barrels warm/hottish to tough (not too hot) Leave to cool over night Check torque again Fill with coolant Done Never had any problems with that method. Could be worse, could be your crank....... Good luck sorting it whatever it is  |
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Post by looey on Dec 18, 2014 16:10:09 GMT 1
We have already looked at that option which when you phone them up and ask is a 6-8 week back order They sometimes take your money on back order stuff, then a few weeks later say sorry, we can't get it, have ya money back !. |
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Post by looey on Dec 18, 2014 14:26:45 GMT 1
Yeah I think they do but...... After looking into it a little, the complete new crank they sell I think is the same quality as the Mitaka item people are saying is cr*p, and if they rebuild mine, it would be an extra £90 on top of the normal rebuild price to have aftermarket inner webs fitted as part of the rebuild ?. |
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Post by looey on Dec 18, 2014 13:09:54 GMT 1
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Post by looey on Dec 17, 2014 21:43:07 GMT 1
Yep, at least another £90 more expensive !.
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Post by looey on Dec 17, 2014 21:08:52 GMT 1
No doesn't seem it eh ?. Problems is, it's £220 for an exchange crank but mine is shot, even the inner webs are Kahoonered |
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Post by looey on Dec 17, 2014 20:34:37 GMT 1
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Post by looey on Dec 7, 2014 19:43:44 GMT 1
Britannia Rescue - Now LV. Covers older vehicles and trailers/caravans, which AA do not cover. I'm with Britannia Rescue as well and have been for 10 years + It's something like £120 a year but that's Deluxe and Personal cover for me and the misses which covers us both IN or ON anything (cars, bikes, vans upto 3.5T), even if you're a passenger in something that breaks down. It also covers the main registered vehicle for the same level of cover throughout Europe. No restriction on distance etc. and have used them a few times over that period of time with a perfect service each time. No pays you money and you normally get what you pay for  |
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Post by looey on Dec 7, 2014 19:30:09 GMT 1
Yes nice one, ta. Since I posted the thread I have found out the correct spring is 136mm. I've also found a picture in an original owners manual for a Mk1 that shows the correct fitting of the spring. With the stand up (horizontal underneath the swingarm) the loose end goes at the hinge end with the hook going over the top and the fixed hook going over the lug halfway down the stand with the hook going round the underneath of the lug. Hope that makes sense ?  |
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Post by looey on Dec 7, 2014 11:52:22 GMT 1
Chaps, Could anyone please do me a favour and tell me the exact length of the RD125LC side stand spring (unstretched dimension please). Oh and does the correct one have one fixed hook end and one loose ?. And if so, which way around does it fit ?....lol I have a few here and need to establich which is the correct one to fit. Ta |
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Post by looey on Dec 4, 2014 19:07:23 GMT 1
Did mine on my K1 GSXR1000 a little while ago, wasn't as bad as I thought it was going to be  . With 13 seals per caliper , it's not for the faint hearted but with everything cleaned up and all new genuine seals fitted they work like new again |
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Post by looey on Dec 4, 2014 18:12:18 GMT 1
Yep, open up a dispute case and send em back for a full refund including all postage.
It's the seller's responsibility for postage both ways if an item is to be returned because it's faulty or not as described.
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Post by looey on Dec 3, 2014 23:03:55 GMT 1
Done !
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Post by looey on Nov 26, 2014 17:28:10 GMT 1
Question is (and I don't know either way), is it deffo in original paint if the decal is not how they ever did them ?.
Can anyone find a brochure or factory picture with the Yamaha without the black outline ?.
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Post by looey on Nov 26, 2014 11:59:15 GMT 1
Be very nice to have a brand new tank ........ Now I'm not in the decal police but.... Shouldn't the Yamaha on the tank have a black outline ?, looks weird to me ?. And shouldn't the side panels have a satin finish on the bottom sections ?. Maybe they were like that from new or is it b'cos they are RZ250 4L3 items ?. |
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Oh dear
Nov 12, 2014 21:41:56 GMT 1
Post by looey on Nov 12, 2014 21:41:56 GMT 1
Ok mate, Best find out what carb it is (12A, 10W 1GU etc.) and also what main jet is fitted before you go riding it again . Let us know |
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Oh dear
Nov 12, 2014 20:36:38 GMT 1
Post by looey on Nov 12, 2014 20:36:38 GMT 1
If it was jetted ok for a Micron fitted it deffo won't need a bigger main jet for an Allspeed with no other changes.
Must be something else for that to happen.
What carb and main jet are you running ?.
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Post by looey on Nov 11, 2014 10:16:51 GMT 1
Just Google image brochures, they will obviously be bikes from the factory. If you look at 125/250/350LCs, you will even see the differences in tank decal positions from one bike to another across the brochures. Some are higher at the rear, some higher at the front and some pretty much level. I had my 125LC painted a couple of years ago and the first member of the "decal police" that saw the bike said "your left tank decal isn't straight", so I showed them a picture of my brand new never ridden RD125LC taken back in 1984 and the tank decal was in the absolutely identical place  So like Norbo says, they were hand fitted and did vary somewhat from bike to bike but also like Headcase (sorry Headcoats..... ) says, some are so far out on re-painted/rebuilt bikes it can spoil it |
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Post by looey on Oct 29, 2014 15:11:41 GMT 1
I'm fairly sure it comes off very easy with brake cleaner, once you've bladed the worst off.
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Post by looey on Oct 26, 2014 15:12:31 GMT 1
Yeah that would be cool if you could mate. Any chance of scanning the article and posting in here ? |
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Post by looey on Oct 25, 2014 17:30:34 GMT 1
It's been discussed many times, but the two most important things are a damp free environment and a fairly constant ambient temerature.
It's the fluctuations in temperature and moisture in the air that gets everything covered in condensation and the result is external corrosion and water ingress (inside petrol tanks and engines for example).
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Oh dear
Oct 13, 2014 21:26:36 GMT 1
Post by looey on Oct 13, 2014 21:26:36 GMT 1
LOL |
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Oh dear
Oct 13, 2014 17:38:39 GMT 1
Post by looey on Oct 13, 2014 17:38:39 GMT 1
Good point but that doesn't happen very often on them either, unless the Cowboys have in there......lol
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Oh dear
Oct 12, 2014 20:40:38 GMT 1
Post by looey on Oct 12, 2014 20:40:38 GMT 1
Ooooops They very rarely have timing issues, so would suspect jetting or a serious air leak (induction, or left crank seal etc.) |
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. Hopefully it's just that stud but if it was clicking off on the torque wrench then you would think it would've been sufficiently tight ?.
