|
Post by jon on Feb 18, 2024 11:43:30 GMT 1
You’re not thinking of forged pistons are you? Some of those only go up in 0.5mm increments.
I had a set of very worn original bores that had to go from 64mm to 64.75mm to clean them up. As I was going to use forged pistons they ended up going to 65mm.
Jon
|
|
|
Post by jon on Feb 18, 2024 10:21:39 GMT 1
Get next set laser cut from zinc plate! Surely the edges would rust? Jon
|
|
|
Post by jon on Feb 18, 2024 9:57:54 GMT 1
I understand why it is red with the TZ link. Thing is it’s not an attempt at a faithful nut and bolt standard restoration. You’re stuck with reproducing elements of a bike you don’t like just because that’s how it was. That’s why I don’t particularly like standard bikes and prefer hybrids.
Jon
|
|
|
Post by jon on Feb 18, 2024 9:30:22 GMT 1
This one makes me laugh too. It is so wrong on many levels. Completely wrong shape, fuel cap in wrong position and the paintwork is laughable. Not cheap either. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/155462573428Jon
|
|
|
Post by jon on Feb 17, 2024 19:34:49 GMT 1
This is the one that is burnt into my memory.
I’ve no reason to think that another material would be any different?
Jon
|
|
|
Post by jon on Feb 17, 2024 19:08:29 GMT 1
I posted the video too, from Facebook originally. Guy cuts it open to reveal the horrors within !! Tanks are reputedly made by studying pics. There are other videos showing Indian manufacturing processes with bike parts. Should be enough to put anyone off ! 🙂 Can’t find the video now Dusty to post here, but it has burnt into my memory. Jon
|
|
|
Post by jon on Feb 17, 2024 18:18:24 GMT 1
Sure that you're right Steve but the picture of the one on the bike and stand alone on ebay were not really that bad. If needed (hypothetical case) I perhaps wouldn't reject it immediately because it was Indian but would compare what was offered, a standard tank, and/or what was otherwise available. Then I'd ask you. I remember the mid '60's too. Buy this Honda rubbish? You must be joking, it's made of old washing machines. ”It’s impossible for words to describe what is necessary to those who do not know what horror means”. Martin, as you say yourself you’re fairly new to the RD. A lot on here have seen the true horror of an Indian tank being cut open to expose the build quality. Strangely, I can’t seem to find the video nasty a lot have witnessed in the past? I wouldn’t even be happy with garden furniture produced at that quality. No-one has ever challenged this since, so I imagine it’s the same? Jon
|
|
|
Post by jon on Feb 17, 2024 12:43:38 GMT 1
Thinking about this seriously, what about forum members donating say a £1 to someone so they can order one and review/dissect it?
Jon
|
|
|
Post by jon on Feb 17, 2024 12:36:35 GMT 1
I expect their pressure test is someone blowing into the petrol cap hole and listening for leaks?
Jon
|
|
|
Post by jon on Feb 17, 2024 11:32:19 GMT 1
Yep, yambits crank seals too. Seller is responsive to messages. 😱
|
|
|
Post by jon on Feb 17, 2024 10:18:47 GMT 1
+1
Jon
|
|
|
Post by jon on Feb 17, 2024 10:09:52 GMT 1
In fairness the add does state new tank, so it’s obviously Indian.
Jon
|
|
|
Post by jon on Feb 16, 2024 17:37:55 GMT 1
Easily knocked up on lathe and welded on.
Jon
|
|
|
Post by jon on Feb 16, 2024 17:34:56 GMT 1
I would say definitely yes. My logic is it looks like it was done before being rebored, so should be square?
Jon
|
|
|
Post by jon on Feb 16, 2024 16:37:50 GMT 1
I've got Conti Race Attack 2 on mine.. Soft Front & Medium rear. While I’m sure I’ll be using a 160 rear, I’m in two minds whether to use a 110 or 120 front. Have the choice of 2.75 or 3.5 front wheels also. Jon
|
|
|
Post by jon on Feb 16, 2024 16:35:43 GMT 1
I’ve never built a completely standard bike. My KR F2 is the closest.I just prefer hybrids.
However, in this case as you’ve been dealt a lucky hand I’d say standard with minimal mods (pipes etc).
Jon
|
|
|
Post by jon on Feb 16, 2024 16:28:15 GMT 1
This is a very nice bike. Let down by only 2 things IMO. The welding on the swingarm pivot strengthening plate, and the colour of the mudguard. Should have been white with a central red stripe, pinstriped either side to mimic the ready of the paint IMO. Jon I would think with stiff suspension components and wide 17” rubber that a little stiffness around the swingarm pivot would be a very good idea on an lc frame, no? Absolutely agree. My widened and strengthened LC frame has the same. I was commenting on the quality of the weld (or rather not). Here’s mine: rdlccrazy.proboards.com/post/348487Jon
|
|
|
Post by jon on Feb 16, 2024 16:09:47 GMT 1
This is a very nice bike. Let down by only 2 things IMO. The welding on the swingarm pivot strengthening plate, and the colour of the mudguard. Should have been white with a central red stripe, pinstriped either side to mimic the rest of the paint IMO. Jon
|
|
|
Post by jon on Feb 14, 2024 17:49:56 GMT 1
To make a 2 stroke engine produce as much power as possible is at the detriment to a road bike.
My advice is tune it for bottom end.
Jon
|
|
|
Post by jon on Feb 11, 2024 17:59:18 GMT 1
|
|
|
Post by jon on Feb 11, 2024 17:54:06 GMT 1
|
|
|
Post by jon on Feb 11, 2024 17:37:49 GMT 1
I’ve cut mine out to give more room for the YPVS servo I’ve mounted nearby.
Jon
|
|
|
Post by jon on Feb 11, 2024 10:29:48 GMT 1
My pet hate again. Disks on back to front. I don’t understand as they are marked L and R. Jon
|
|
|
Post by jon on Feb 10, 2024 12:47:20 GMT 1
I see. I use non insulated connectors and only solder the clip bit not the strain relief bit. So in theory the wire still remains flexible from the connector end.
Jon
|
|
|
Post by jon on Feb 10, 2024 12:36:46 GMT 1
In The past i have read not to solder connectors on vehicles etc. Personally i thought fussy buggers. My Bakker bike creates more vibration than a standard bike and the only wire which i soldered failed. Maybe just coincidence but i try to avoid soldering now. Purely out of interest which wire was it? Jon
|
|
|
Post by jon on Feb 10, 2024 12:01:24 GMT 1
Admittedly the thinner wires don't crimp easily in the bigger connectors I tend to crimp then solder them A good solution for electrical connection but can cause a brittle point Steve I’ve also soldered connectors as well as crimping in the past. I get the logic some people say it creates a brittle point, but I’ve never had a problem. Jon
|
|
|
Post by jon on Feb 8, 2024 20:47:12 GMT 1
Studs that have been in 40 years have a habit of being seized in my experience.
If it were mine I’d cut the studs down nearer the case and weld a nut with a chamfer on. The heat will help it remove.
Personally I’d drill out some 17mm hex bar and give it a good chamfer to get some extra torque.
I’d also get it machined and use spacers.
An air leak here could be disastrous.
Jon
|
|
|
Post by jon on Feb 4, 2024 14:36:54 GMT 1
It’s a beaut and no mistake. Is the centre stand a different colour to the frame (loving the frame colour)? Yes, stand is steel wheel colour, and the frame was powder coated in a colour called Zircon. Jon
|
|
|
Post by jon on Feb 3, 2024 17:01:21 GMT 1
Zoo escaped big cat? Maybe puma? Had something similar 30+ years ago.
Jon
|
|
|
Post by jon on Feb 3, 2024 16:51:04 GMT 1
Maybe we can turn you to the dark side (hybrids) after all? It’s the way it was with LC’s back in the day to present. Jon
|
|