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Post by jon on Mar 19, 2024 19:36:34 GMT 1
Standard gearing?
Jon
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Post by jon on Mar 19, 2024 19:35:37 GMT 1
I have a method to get them out easily thankfully. I just weld a small bit of bar into the bearing. The heat heats up the cases too and makes drifting it out a doddle.
Jon
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Post by jon on Mar 17, 2024 11:30:56 GMT 1
Not ever having worked on an RD500 engine I never knew they had so many idiosyncrasies.
Jon
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Post by jon on Mar 16, 2024 16:27:35 GMT 1
I like the way you’ve either built the bike or the wall to follow each others lines.
Jon
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Post by jon on Mar 14, 2024 19:48:55 GMT 1
Hi all,
how much do you think a complete R fairing is worth?
Jon
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Post by jon on Mar 13, 2024 19:29:07 GMT 1
I did something similar to get the routing right. Triumph 4 pots on an F2. Ended up using CP race tech to not only get the lengths right but the torsional angles on the banjos as well as the angled bends. He said not to worry about the torsional angles as he’d leave the heat shrink un-shrunk and I could just twist them before shrink wrapping.
I will use them again as preference.
Seem to remember he said he was an ex hell employee (the little devil 👿 😂).
Jon
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Tyres
Mar 13, 2024 19:15:32 GMT 1
Post by jon on Mar 13, 2024 19:15:32 GMT 1
That would surely make high lean angles ‘interesting’.
Jon
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Post by jon on Mar 10, 2024 14:56:43 GMT 1
That's why I said piston circlip I've had 2 motors that the circlip has came loose, the piston pin moves out and makes a catastrophic 15mm wide score into the bore Engine still runs Steve Is the gudgeon pin not 16mm, or are you taking into account the chamfer? 😂 Jon
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Post by jon on Mar 9, 2024 10:36:21 GMT 1
Is it just me that can’t see the pictures?
Jon
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Post by jon on Mar 7, 2024 19:57:43 GMT 1
It looks like the place where I set up a group buy of RZ500 shocks (10???) years ago can get the shock for me. I've also emailed a UK vendor to verify availability, etc., as it would save me a few bucks. Have not heard back yet. Jon, what year is your TZR125RR? I'll cross reference the part number to the 250 one. Great idea. I hope it's the same. I’m not 100% sure on model as I don’t have the whole bike, just front end etc for my LC hybrid. I think it may be a 4HW or 4FL, but there were a few different models. rdlccrazy.proboards.com/post/536395It’s not the same code, but the centre and end is ie 4FL-21511-00 and 3XV-21511-00. Of course plenty still make aftermarket ones if your stuck. Jon
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Post by jon on Mar 6, 2024 19:20:54 GMT 1
kensgarage I don’t know if it helps but my TZR125RR mudguard looks the same. I know they share a few parts with its bigger brother. For instance the front spindle has a 3XV code. Might widen the search? Very nice build by the way. Too old and tall for clipons (especially) under the top yoke, but that will look cool. Jon
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Post by jon on Mar 2, 2024 15:12:31 GMT 1
Well today I got my footrest hangers welded in preparation to chop the pillion part off. This would have left the rib around the edge of the casting non existent. So once again for cosmetic purposes, I decided to build this area up in preparation to form a new ribbed part behind the exhaust mount.
Jon
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Post by jon on Mar 2, 2024 8:58:44 GMT 1
I would have thought many machine shops could do this. I’d get a few quotes if I were you as as said could be expensive. They would necessarily have to be vehicle related.
Jon
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Wheels
Mar 1, 2024 16:44:14 GMT 1
Post by jon on Mar 1, 2024 16:44:14 GMT 1
I had this once with a set of F2 wheels I’d had powdercoated yellow. I used a decent paint stripper and an artist’s brush. Then a flat edge (6” steel ruler will do) to scrape it off.
I think I’d rather that than any damage that might be caused getting it off. After all if they were as unfamiliar with coating bike wheels as they seem, what else are they bad at?
Jon
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Post by jon on Mar 1, 2024 7:33:22 GMT 1
I’d take the powdercoat off the disk mating surfaces if I were you?
Jon
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Post by jon on Feb 29, 2024 8:12:12 GMT 1
Has anyone done any dyno tests of various setups and thicknesses?
Jon
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Post by jon on Feb 28, 2024 20:18:07 GMT 1
Hi all,
IIRC reed spacers are generally expected to uncover the boost port if placed between the cylinders and reeds, or increase bottom to midrange power at the expense of top end if placed between the reeds and reed rubbers?
In practice I seem to recall they make little difference?
Has anyone tried both?
Jon
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Post by jon on Feb 25, 2024 12:10:44 GMT 1
Knew I'd seen that before Unfortunately for the wrong reasons when we seen it for sale ages ago Your comment about the pads not biting on the whole disc face reminded me. I'd have a good look at the bracket on the rear caliper too Not all bad but it made us worry about the workmanship on the build, I'd have a good look over all of it Will be worth it in the end 👍 Steve There’s a screw missing on the disk too. Easily fixed hopefully, but as Steve says if you can see from a photo a few dodgy safety faux pas, I’d be tempted to check it all out. Those pipes look to be made of zintec coated mild steel rather than titanium. Jon
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Post by jon on Feb 24, 2024 16:31:15 GMT 1
Good info there Jon, also handy to know 3ma front was 2.75 👍 Steve I’m only going by what the guy told me the wheels were? But the rear is definately 3MA, so I can only assume the front is? Jon
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Post by jon on Feb 24, 2024 13:40:00 GMT 1
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Post by jon on Feb 23, 2024 16:09:16 GMT 1
The only similar wheel is a Jap RZ250 3HM1 1988 front wheel Same pattern, 2.15 rim and twin disc The yokes have 10mm extra between fork centres I'll get a pic Steve I think that the FZR 250 and TZR 250 3MA is the same wheel to widen the search? Jon
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Post by jon on Feb 22, 2024 20:32:55 GMT 1
As a parts bike it's a decent price but as others have said as a resto it's a money pit to make it good but hey don't they all Steve Steve At the top of the market I bought an F1 in bits, unseen but part restored and "nothing missing Guv, honest", an N1 Guv, honest, but actually a naked F1 with LC2 front end. I paid £4500 for it and around £10k since in missing parts and additional restoration including complete engine rebuild and not finished yet. I'm still looking for another one and it seems to me that the bike which sold for £1850 was infinitely better value than the one that I wasted my money on, far more representative of the way that the price bubble is going. I don't worry a bit about the tank as there is nothing that can't be fixed or replaced even by a beginner like me. I would see money to be made breaking it for parts, a restored and recoated engine alone must be North of that? I thought you bought an F1 off Yogi in January? Jon
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Post by jon on Feb 19, 2024 22:43:36 GMT 1
My sentiments exactly. Could be a good mod for those not too concerned about OEM?
Jon
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Post by jon on Feb 19, 2024 22:16:24 GMT 1
From memory the stand is the same mostly dimensionally apart from the bolt hole size and definately the thread. Would be fairly easy to adapt if you didn’t want to retain the LC sidestand braket as original.
Jon
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Post by jon on Feb 18, 2024 17:27:30 GMT 1
I’ve got similar on my YPVS hybrid build. It’s a seat and a half, but there’s no way it’s a duel seat.
Jon.
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Post by jon on Feb 18, 2024 17:22:37 GMT 1
Absolutely beautiful, hoping for a similar affect on my YPVS. That should have been offered as an option IMO as OEM. Jon
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Post by jon on Feb 18, 2024 17:19:58 GMT 1
Absolutely beautiful, hoping for a similar affect on my YPVS.
Jon
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Post by jon on Feb 18, 2024 16:59:14 GMT 1
Beautiful. Just like the Taiwanese LC tanks.
When are the F/N tanks coming?
Jon
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Post by jon on Feb 18, 2024 15:23:37 GMT 1
Collars and cuffs, if you get my drift?
Jon
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Post by jon on Feb 18, 2024 12:15:27 GMT 1
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