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Post by jon on Apr 22, 2024 6:52:37 GMT 1
I always get those out the same way. Weld something in the middle of the bearing and simple tap out from the other side. The heat of the welding works a treat too.
Jon
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Post by jon on Apr 21, 2024 13:59:49 GMT 1
£3900 for a pile of parts! Shakes head. That’s crazy, Got to be close to £4K to get it any good from there? And that’s assuming all the bits are there and salvageable? Jon
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Post by jon on Apr 21, 2024 10:55:57 GMT 1
I presume they just tap in? Yes. In fact sometimes the originals need a little tap after vapour blasting. Never had to fit new ones, but I’d be tempted to use a bit of locktite. Jon
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Post by jon on Apr 21, 2024 10:19:43 GMT 1
Absolutely necessary. They seal the cases after boring both ends for the shafts.
You probably by the sounds of it never new they were fitted to you cases?
Jon
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Post by jon on Apr 17, 2024 18:14:58 GMT 1
Sounds like another of them Facebook "experts"..... I’m not on Facebook. For a reason. From the very few times I’ve seen my mate use it, I can’t believe the opinionated views of a large proportion. I think it’s because although people look at their interests on there, there is a wide range of personalities which clash. Here, we have a common passion, which I think helps keep the decorum for the most part. Jon
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Post by jon on Apr 15, 2024 13:33:38 GMT 1
I’m interested to see how much this sells for?
Jon
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Post by jon on Apr 14, 2024 12:33:04 GMT 1
Cheers thought they were different wants the thought around the retaining plates? Does that grove look thinner that standard? Those thicker ones are really for worn grooves to take up any slack. Jon
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Post by jon on Apr 14, 2024 9:14:48 GMT 1
I would suspect that been done to overcome a worn powervalve tunnel?
If you replace with standard, they may be wobbly and you’ll have to get the cylinders repaired?
Jon
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Post by jon on Apr 11, 2024 18:43:04 GMT 1
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Post by jon on Apr 7, 2024 8:36:43 GMT 1
All those lidstings state "last one" so they're probably out of stock and put a silly price in so it doesn't get bought but the listing stays live. Once they have more in stock, they'll change the price back to what it should be. That makes sense. Jon
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Post by jon on Apr 6, 2024 14:26:13 GMT 1
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Post by jon on Apr 6, 2024 10:32:30 GMT 1
Yeah, I think that’s what stevesmith was refreshing to above as I forgotten to put the link to the slide. Check out all his stuff’s price, they are ridiculous. I know kidney clocks go for a lot, especially U.K. decent ones but has that really reached £825 plus £28.50 postage? What also makes me laugh is their description where they contradict themselves: without doubt nearly new!! You won’t be disappointed Please remember you’re buying a secondhand used 40 plus year old item not new!!Or what about this: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/276412419735?itmmeta=01HTSCCTG6QKJKRQBPPMPD7PVV&hash=item405b76ce97:g:prkAAOSwOuRj1tD~The they say: please study photos as form part of the description FSS, is in a bag so you can’t see it properly? Probably trying to put across its ‘newness’? Jon
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Post by jon on Apr 6, 2024 7:25:46 GMT 1
What is more impressive to me is the area under the curve. Sure it’s easy to get a higher top BHP figure at the expense of bottom end, but not in this case. A gain all through the Rev range and getting rid of the annoying 5500 flat spot. Now it’s easy to rig dyno graphs by using a poor setup to start with, but if the dyno is accurate it was a healthily 54 BHP to start with for a 350. Jon my dyno is very accurate.........no fudging of figures, it does what it does, anyone who's been to my dyno for setup will tell you its all correct and above board, plus its calibrated once a month and is only 18 months old, so its not worn out or knackered or a home made jobbie ! I wasn’t suggesting your dyno was inaccurate. Merely that 54 BHP was a good start. Makes more sense being a PV rather than an LC, but still a good start engine. Jon
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Post by jon on Apr 5, 2024 17:18:03 GMT 1
What is more impressive to me is the area under the curve. Sure it’s easy to get a higher top BHP figure at the expense of bottom end, but not in this case. A gain all through the Rev range and getting rid of the annoying 5500 flat spot.
Now it’s easy to rig dyno graphs by using a poor setup to start with, but if the dyno is accurate it was a healthily 54 BHP to start with for a 350.
Jon
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Post by jon on Apr 4, 2024 21:00:53 GMT 1
Has anyone tried the Japanese made TSK 51L clutch cable or it a genuine one the only choice? Jon I've never seen a pattern clutch cable that has the Teflon liner Typically the genuine one is cheaper from wemoto, handy if you need some other exotic bits Steve The photos look like they do? I have asked the seller. Jon
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Post by jon on Apr 4, 2024 19:58:43 GMT 1
Has anyone tried the Japanese made TSK 51L clutch cable or it a genuine one the only choice?
Jon
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Post by jon on Apr 3, 2024 19:14:55 GMT 1
I think I would go about this in a different way. I’d make a new thick flange with new threads and clearance in the centre for the fuel filter. Dangle some cotton with a small weight on the end through the petrol cap hole and out the petc**k hole. Snap the weight off and tie it round the fuel filter. Push the petc**k into the tank and use the cotton to guide the flange into position. Screw it all up.
Jon
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Post by jon on Apr 1, 2024 11:02:02 GMT 1
Most people go to lengths to hide their registration number for fear of cloning.
Just a thought?
As far as the barrel question, although I’m a heathen hybrid owner I’d say just buy an aftermarket ignition switch. They really don’t look too different and it’s hidden away from view anyway.
Jon
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Post by jon on Apr 1, 2024 10:50:10 GMT 1
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Post by jon on Apr 1, 2024 10:46:58 GMT 1
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Post by jon on Mar 31, 2024 18:15:26 GMT 1
+1 on the carbon headlight bowl. I’d have 2.
Jon
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Post by jon on Mar 31, 2024 15:25:35 GMT 1
Very interested in this. I have a mint KR F2 I’ll be putting back up for sale very soon.
Jon
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Post by jon on Mar 29, 2024 10:31:30 GMT 1
That's an LC2 frame and swing arm It has either complete later forks or just the lowers hence the different muddy and calipers Another indicator will be the cdi. Lc2 is 29k50, n1 is 52y50 Steve Hi again. The CDI is actually 1UA-50. Will that be any detriment at all ? The ignition curve is slightly different. Generally the 29k-50 curve is considered better for performance. bdkraceeng.co.uk/Bike2.htmlAlso read this rdlccrazy.proboards.com/thread/40316/lc2-31k-stator-f2Jon
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Post by jon on Mar 25, 2024 21:59:30 GMT 1
Is the one on the right a beaten up original, or Indian too? Certainly looks a lot closer shape wise.
Jon
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Post by jon on Mar 23, 2024 11:11:23 GMT 1
Are you sure Legend sell the correct size? Can’t see it listed on their website. I only ask because a while ago Legend didn’t sell the correct size. Went to use one of their uprated bearings and it was too big on the O.D. To fit the cases. After many others complained about this they dropped the sale of that bearing. Jon I bought a few of these in October last year just to see, and they were fine www.ebay.co.uk/itm/111719735443Ah, their eBay shop. I was looking on their website. Perhaps after the oversized bearing issue they’ve sourced some that actually fit now by the sounds of it. Jon
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Post by jon on Mar 23, 2024 10:41:02 GMT 1
Ring spanner to tighten the barrel nuts, if you use 13mm nuts a ring/open end spanner facilitates the use of a 1/2 inch drive torque wrench if you really want to. If it's the selector drum caged needle bearing you need, Legend sell the right size. Are you sure Legend sell the correct size? Can’t see it listed on their website. I only ask because a while ago Legend didn’t sell the correct size. Went to use one of their uprated bearings and it was too big on the O.D. To fit the cases. After many others complained about this they dropped the sale of that bearing. Jon
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Post by jon on Mar 19, 2024 19:51:04 GMT 1
IIRC my mate has that sticker on the back of his 3 wheel Berkeley?
I’ll have to check next time I’m down there.
Jon
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Post by jon on Mar 19, 2024 19:36:34 GMT 1
Standard gearing?
Jon
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Post by jon on Mar 19, 2024 19:35:37 GMT 1
I have a method to get them out easily thankfully. I just weld a small bit of bar into the bearing. The heat heats up the cases too and makes drifting it out a doddle.
Jon
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Post by jon on Mar 17, 2024 11:30:56 GMT 1
Not ever having worked on an RD500 engine I never knew they had so many idiosyncrasies.
Jon
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