|
Post by tony1964 on Apr 1, 2018 19:40:13 GMT 1
Found out where the small leak is coming from, it's one of the inner power valves seals, doesn't look like there's a lot i can do about it, the seals are new. Engine doesn't look to bad. PICT2674 by Anthony Baker, on Flickr PICT2675 by Anthony Baker, on Flickr Tony
|
|
|
Post by tony1964 on Apr 1, 2018 14:22:57 GMT 1
Carried out the leak down test again today, went from 6lb down to 4lb in twenty minutes, couldn't find where it's losing pressure though, is this a pass?
Tony
|
|
|
Post by tony1964 on Apr 1, 2018 14:18:47 GMT 1
Hi Tony Glad it's going well mate When I rebuilt my Lc engine I used new Yam reed rubbers but didn't fit the cross over tube clips whilst doing the leak down test. The tube was a really tight fit in the new rubbers but it still leaked !! Fitting the clips stopped it. Amazing that those little clips made the difference. Dusty Slowly but surely Dusty, I remember changing the crank cases on my LC back in the early 80s, didn't even consider leak down tests in those days, just a case of chuck it back together and thrash the life out of it. Tony
|
|
|
Post by tony1964 on Apr 1, 2018 13:35:02 GMT 1
Thanks Yogi,
Obviously it would appeal to owners outside of the uk more, never had any dealings with posting abroad though and the added hassle it may coarse.
Tony
|
|
|
Post by tony1964 on Apr 1, 2018 12:00:00 GMT 1
Thanks veg
have now put them in the for sale segment.
if you want i can send you a photo of the end caps.??
Tony
|
|
|
Post by tony1964 on Apr 1, 2018 11:47:45 GMT 1
Morning veg, I'm in Sidcup, kent. The fork caps do have a few marks on them, looks like someones had ago with an adjustable hate adjustables.. Tony
|
|
|
Post by tony1964 on Apr 1, 2018 11:44:08 GMT 1
|
|
|
Post by tony1964 on Mar 30, 2018 10:36:03 GMT 1
Put the engine in the bike, then tighten it all up and leak down test it one last time :-) Leak down test top tip......put some Yamabond on the inlet gaskets, as they always leak.... One step a head of you mate, i was surprised how much it leaked on the inlet gaskets, Leak down test is well worth doing Tony
|
|
|
Post by tony1964 on Mar 29, 2018 17:28:49 GMT 1
I use a 12V impact gun to tighten the crank nut. You can lock the primary gears while you do this with a piece of copper tube squashed flat as per Dusty's top tip. Best to tighten while you can still leak down test, as tightening may move/disturb something, so need to check it in it's final setup. The impact gun is good for the clutch nut and front sprocket nut too. :-) Keep up the good work! Thanks 4l04ever Already got a length of copper tube with the end squashed flat (as per Dusty's top tip) was going to Torque it up when it's back in the bike and the clutch is back on, makes it a little lighter to lift back in and easier to tighten. Tony
|
|
|
Post by tony1964 on Mar 29, 2018 17:03:33 GMT 1
Hi Tony looking at the first picture the nut looks loose. If this is the case clean all the parts and tighten the nut up to the correct torque and test again. I've tightened it up as much as i can holding it by hand and i'ts stopped leaking, i wouldn't have thought that would have created a good enough of a seal but is has, now it's not leaking from there and it's holding a little more pressure I've noticed i have a slight leak on the carb bung where the valve comes through it, out with the sealant. Thanks Tobyjugs Tony
|
|
|
Post by tony1964 on Mar 29, 2018 12:08:56 GMT 1
Started doing a leak down test, had the normal carb rubber leaks which I've cured, I've got a leak from the Woodruff key (see photo) a have put some sealant around it but as you can see it's still leaking, is it a case of not enough sealant?? PICT2653 by Anthony Baker, on Flickr PICT2659 by Anthony Baker, on Flickr Thanks Tony
|
|
|
Post by tony1964 on Mar 19, 2018 19:19:37 GMT 1
PJ1 has changes it's formula so it's know where near as good as it used to be so i would stear clear of it.
|
|
|
Post by tony1964 on Mar 19, 2018 17:55:00 GMT 1
Spoke to Stan Stephens, very helpful man, he said not to touch the gasket as it wont cause a problem and the dome of the piston wont touch it,he didn't recommend trimming them back as they could leak, he did say if i was worried to use a thicker base gasket but he wouldn't on a 1.5 overbore.
phillmill.
It would be nice if they did.
|
|
|
Post by tony1964 on Mar 19, 2018 12:49:21 GMT 1
Thanks Tobyjugs.
Not looking forward to doing this.
Tony
|
|
|
Post by tony1964 on Mar 19, 2018 11:23:44 GMT 1
Thanks Tobyjugs.
Does it have to be flush with the bores ??
Tony
|
|
|
Post by tony1964 on Mar 19, 2018 9:42:35 GMT 1
Any Ideas anyone? ?
|
|
|
Post by tony1964 on Mar 18, 2018 12:23:45 GMT 1
Just had a look on the Fowlers web site and the part numbers are the same for all 3.
Tony
|
|
|
Post by tony1964 on Mar 18, 2018 9:48:31 GMT 1
Good morning, I went to fit my head gasket (genuine yamaha) yesterday and noticed the gasket is slightly over hanging the bore hole by about 1mm, the bore is now 1.5 over standard, will this cause a problem?? if so how do i rectify it Tony PICT2632 by Anthony Baker, on Flickr
|
|
|
Post by tony1964 on Mar 16, 2018 23:14:30 GMT 1
Yet another very nice build.
|
|
|
Post by tony1964 on Mar 16, 2018 23:10:53 GMT 1
Fitted my barrels, cleaned up a few bits and pieces for painting, got my clutch cover back from the powder coaters still wrong, that's 3 times now
|
|
|
Post by tony1964 on Mar 16, 2018 19:16:19 GMT 1
Hi Dusty, did you use 15mm copper pipe for the balance pipe holes in the reed blocks??
Tony
|
|
|
Post by tony1964 on Mar 15, 2018 18:01:55 GMT 1
Norbo sells them £4.50 a pair
|
|
|
Post by tony1964 on Mar 10, 2018 12:39:59 GMT 1
It's coming together now, slowly but surely. PICT2621 by Anthony Baker, on Flickr New pistons fitted, i don't remember Cir-clips being such a pain to fit. PICT2613 by Anthony Baker, on Flickr Time to rebuild the power valves, all nice new shiny parts. PICT2617 by Anthony Baker, on Flickr Used Norbos thicker Bush holders to help remove the side movement in the Bushes PICT2619 by Anthony Baker, on Flickr Had to fettle the power valves a little as the clearance wasn't that great, all good now though.
|
|
|
Post by tony1964 on Mar 10, 2018 12:13:05 GMT 1
Thanks for your reply's
Tony
|
|
|
Post by tony1964 on Mar 9, 2018 15:11:19 GMT 1
I believe a lot of the modern paint strippers have had all the good bits removed from their ingredients (European laws ) the new Nitromors is meant to be rubbish. So what are you guys using?? Tony
|
|
|
Post by tony1964 on Mar 6, 2018 20:09:58 GMT 1
I purchased a set a year or two back and I can't fault them,quality items. Thanks for replying Kryten, I got them off of Martin at Mad Biker Designs in the end, good quality, same price but he's local to me so i could pick them up. Tony
|
|
|
Post by tony1964 on Mar 5, 2018 13:37:12 GMT 1
Has anyone used a set of Norbos replacement power valves before??
Regards
Tony
|
|
|
Post by tony1964 on Feb 24, 2018 18:08:30 GMT 1
|
|
|
Post by tony1964 on Feb 24, 2018 15:04:37 GMT 1
Afternoon all,
I'm sure i read on here a while back that your meant to use Molybdenum grease when putting the power valves back together, is this correct??
Is Molybdenum grease the same as constant velocity grease??
Thanks
Tony.
|
|
|
Post by tony1964 on Feb 20, 2018 10:24:02 GMT 1
by the way tony1964...(and apologies if you already know this, I didn't see a reference in your thread but I'm half blind) BUT if you haven't read Dusty's rebuild thread it's a smashing read with tons of pics that has helped me to a lot... rdlccrazy.proboards.com/thread/34544/rd350lc-engine-rebuildhe suggested copaslip for an anti seize paste. Thanks mudtm60 for refreshing my memory, i'm sure it's an age thing..
|
|