|
Post by richclare on Aug 6, 2017 20:12:08 GMT 1
Cheers Stusco, photos hide a lot of the detailing that needs doing. Rich
|
|
|
Post by richclare on Aug 2, 2017 7:03:24 GMT 1
|
|
|
Post by richclare on Jul 31, 2017 7:04:56 GMT 1
The coolant here in France comes ready to use or so I've read so far. Perhaps it is a 50/50 mix already!? This is the same for cars and bikes.
Rich
|
|
|
Post by richclare on Jul 30, 2017 8:00:19 GMT 1
I'm just about to refill my cooling system on my 4L0. I know in a car the coolant is used 'neat', does the same apply to bike engines?
Cheers Rich
|
|
|
Post by richclare on Jul 29, 2017 23:40:22 GMT 1
I have just got myself a set of 31k carbs so when I get back on the road I will let you all know how they compare to the un-modded original 4l0 O0 carbs. Unfortunately mine were modded back in 1980 but I accidently broke a tap in one of the 3mm holes whilst trying to temporarily block it with a grub screw. So I just blocked off both 3mm holes and reverted to original. I can't wait to try the 31k's. I would be very interested in your results. Let me know how it goes as it will help me and others, I'm sure. My rebuild is coming to an end so should be riding soon. Today the new battery went in and things were alight - very exciting times ;-) Cheers Rich
|
|
|
Post by richclare on Jul 27, 2017 12:13:41 GMT 1
|
|
|
Post by richclare on Jul 27, 2017 12:13:14 GMT 1
Just to finish the thread.... the photo shows an old and new (top) rubber. The thickness of the part which fits in to the caliper is slightly thicker. I think a scalpel might be the best way to reduce it.
Rich
|
|
|
Post by richclare on Jul 25, 2017 16:00:31 GMT 1
Ouch that's a photo to shock. I hope you are feeling better each day. All the best for your quick and relatively painless recovery.
Rich
|
|
|
Post by richclare on Jul 24, 2017 21:03:03 GMT 1
Thanks for your message Steve,
Since I posted, I have managed to get one in 😊. Firstly I trimmed the moulding lines off with a scalpel. Then I used a little washing up liquid and gradually pushed it into the hole with the end of a small screwdriver. I then used the blade of the screwdriver to push from the inside, of the rubber, into the recess. The pin was tight but passed through..... Still a real a**e to get in. Only 3 to go!
Thanks again for your advice.
Rich
|
|
|
Post by richclare on Jul 24, 2017 19:20:45 GMT 1
Hello again,
Just did a search which I should have done before (sorry, frustration got the better of me!). LCBOTT said he had to trim the rubber. I've measured the hole compared to the rubber and they both measure 14mm diameter. Maybe someone has another idea from past experience?
Rich
|
|
|
Post by richclare on Jul 24, 2017 19:00:41 GMT 1
Hi guys, I've managed to break the first slide pin rubber while rebuilding my calipers. I lubricated the orifice and rubber (nurse) and still couldn't get it to seat properly. It looked OK but the slide pin wouldn't pass through it, as though the rubber was too large. Has anyone else had the problem and found a slippery solution Cheers Rich
|
|
|
Post by richclare on Jul 20, 2017 12:50:15 GMT 1
Damn, missed that one!! AND I deleted the recordingðŸ˜
|
|
|
Post by richclare on Jul 14, 2017 6:25:28 GMT 1
Hi WB350,
That's good to know there is a fall back if everything else fails or if I can't be ar**d😉 I'm going to try the standard 4l0-00 carbs for the moment.
Cheers Rich
|
|
|
Post by richclare on Jun 14, 2017 17:31:17 GMT 1
Hi,
I've got an mph speedo but would like a kph speedo cos' I live in France!! Let me know if you are interested.
Rich
|
|
|
Post by richclare on Jun 9, 2017 20:06:31 GMT 1
Hi, I thought it was worth posting some pics of my pressure test. I think the pictures should be self-explanatory.... I used 32mm PVC waste fittings with some tape to increase the diameter for a snug fit. The old inner tube valve was sealed with some gasket sealant. The exhausts were blocked with gasket sealant and metal plate with a wood packer. I was thinking twice about doing a test..... I found the inlet rubbers, although in good visual state, to leak like a sieve, around the balance pipe and around the edges. So I sealed these with sealant to verify the other parts. I also had a leaky spark plug! After this it held pressure for 15 mins without moving. Although it was frustrating to have leaks, it was definitely a worthwhile exercise. I've ordered some new inlet rubbers from Norbo to replace the old ones.
|
|
|
Post by richclare on Jun 8, 2017 10:55:06 GMT 1
That's great. Thanks very much for your reply muttsnuts. Is that 3mm diameter drill (can't see the figure clearly on the tech sheet). How is the hole blocked - grub screw with loctite? Cheers Rich you leave the 3mm hole open to the air, it feeds the air correction circuit, then the hole on in th eimnlet side of the carb is blocked up, it says use araldite or the likes, but I have the correct brass balls and block them off with that when I do the mods for people Thanks mutts. I might be coming to you soon for some ball therapy! 😉 The knowledge on here is brilliant and good people too. Have a good day. Rich
|
|
|
Post by richclare on Jun 7, 2017 20:06:43 GMT 1
Hi, from my understanding no they havent been modded. You should have a drilling into the Air jet, and then its blanked off, I'll forward diagram makes more sense. I was sent this by another member on Saturday as I have same carbs. If you try the mod yourself be careful drilling, I had drill bit break ...... Hi whiteblue (best colours IMO), Could you send me any photos of your modified carbs, with any tips😉 Did you use a pillar drill and did you drill in one hit or gradually increase the size? Many thanks, Rich
|
|
|
Post by richclare on Jun 7, 2017 17:32:00 GMT 1
yours have not been modded, so need doing, yes it will solve the problem so long as everything else is correct, but you do need to up jet as per the technical bulletin and some carbs prefer 165 mains and others prefer 170's be sure not to get the drilling out of alignment otherwise your carbs will be scrap That's great. Thanks very much for your reply muttsnuts. Is that 3mm diameter drill (can't see the figure clearly on the tech sheet). How is the hole blocked - grub screw with loctite? Cheers Rich
|
|
|
Post by richclare on Jun 7, 2017 12:16:51 GMT 1
Hi guys,
Thank you very much for your replies. I will see if the mod has been done tonight. Can you tell me if the mod sorts out the midrange problems? Many thanks again.
Rich
|
|
|
Post by richclare on Jun 6, 2017 17:37:12 GMT 1
Evenin' all, I think I read somewhere the 4l0-00 carbs could have been modified by Yamaha to try and sort the midrange problems. Can anyone tell me if mine have been done? Did the mod solve the issues? Also before I spend time & money cleaning my carbs is it just better to change them for 31k's? Cheers Rich
|
|
|
Post by richclare on May 31, 2017 21:44:49 GMT 1
Nice pipes, they make the bike look great (or should that be greater!!). What indicators have you got ?? (I'm looking for some at the moment). Happy riding.
Cheers Rich
|
|
|
Post by richclare on May 26, 2017 7:06:06 GMT 1
Liking the work and the thread, keep it up. Merci beaucoup! Cheers Shaun? I like your avatar - do you really put your two-wheeled lady in front of the fire? Something warm to snuggle up to . Hopefully mine will look as good as yours when finished.
|
|
|
Post by richclare on May 23, 2017 13:15:44 GMT 1
Looking really good Rich, nice finish on the clutch cover Cheers Mark, I wish I could say it was my painting The guy that did the powder coat helped with choosing the colour. I wanted matt originally but he advised a slight satin finish for ease of cleaning...
|
|
|
Post by richclare on May 21, 2017 18:01:53 GMT 1
When I bought the bike it had a seizure in one cylinder. After I had sent the oil pump to Arrow he diagnosed an odd length worm shaft, oh nurse . He suggested a dry fit with the old and new shaft, which he supplied. The photos below show the results (first photo being the old shaft). After a few measurements of the crankshaft drive gears it would suggest the old shaft,with its gear, hardly interlocked with the crankshaft! Hopefully this explains the seizure.
|
|
|
Post by richclare on May 21, 2017 17:53:44 GMT 1
Managed to sort out the adjustment on the gear selector fork - thanks Mark for your help. Built the clutch and put the oil and water pump gears on....
|
|
|
Post by richclare on May 10, 2017 20:57:36 GMT 1
Hi Rich, the washer (called a belville washer) goes the other way to how it is in the picture. As for the gear change arm not returning to the same position, I would check the spring that centralises it, if that doesn't sort it then check that nothing is binding on the shaft. After that, check the selector drum has a positive movement. The shaft should always return to the same place.
HTH Mark Hi Mark, really appreciate your reply and ideas. I will take the selector arm out and check each element. The differences are small, maybe only 1mm at most, but it makes sense that it returns each time to the same position. Love your RDtriple, amazing. Cheers Rich
|
|
|
Post by richclare on May 10, 2017 11:07:27 GMT 1
Hello, to the question about the washer. >1. Does the conical washer on the crankshaft have a right and wrong side to fit? Bulge must be outside. So clearly wrong in your picture Regards Siggi Hi Siggi, thanks for your reply. I had thought it was the other way as the nut had scoring on the inner surface, next to the threaded part. Always good to have a second opinion.
|
|
|
Post by richclare on May 8, 2017 20:52:12 GMT 1
I haven’t updated my thread for a while. Mainly due to work At least it helps pay for the TLC that Elsie is lapping up. I've started to put things back together which is great. Still some way to go, but the major stuff is done or underway... Wheels after blasting. My first lesson to plug up any holes and threads BEFORE the process. I didn't realise quite how far the media went. Starting to rebuild motor with the help of Dusty's rebuild thread Covers going for some paint Wheels back from the painters. I'm still in pain from polishing the rims. Next time they will be one colour! Progress so far New fuse box needs to be wired in properly. How do you rotate a photo by the way!? Closed the cases this weekend and started the clutch, which leads to 2 questions: 1. Does the conical washer on the crankshaft have a right and wrong side to fit? 2. When I adjusted the gear fork selector to equal distance between the pins, it changed as subsequent gears were selected up and down. The tolerance seems quite precise as the arm doesn't return to the exact position each time. Can anyone help with some advice or tips? Bought a beautiful chain guard which I decided not to keep red and sanded down with progressive grades of wet and dry. Still think the forum is a fantastic source of info..... more photos soon, honest Rich
|
|
|
Post by richclare on Apr 27, 2017 16:35:39 GMT 1
Many thanks guys for replying... Having posted the message I then figured it out! Even though I couldn't believe the exploded diagram was wrong (unless I'm looking at it from the wrong side of the garage!). I took a photo of the finished article just to finish the thread. Thanks again for your advice. Cheers Rich
|
|
|
Post by richclare on Apr 23, 2017 15:42:12 GMT 1
Hi, I'm reassembling my rear wheel and something doesn't make sense. The collar (8) looks wrong when I follow the manual drawing. Has anyone got some photos to help? I am aware that I may be an idiot and missing the obvious. Would really appreciate any help. Thanks very much, Rich
|
|