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Post by richclare on Sept 28, 2017 19:58:11 GMT 1
Thinks Steeley, as I thought.... time to purchase some new tools😀. Forgot to mention your impressive file collection - you could always go in to cylinder fettling😉. Look after those cats or do they look after you....
Thanks again for all the info.
Rich
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Post by richclare on Sept 28, 2017 16:22:28 GMT 1
Hi Steeley,
You're a star, thank you. Particularly like Poppy's 15 seconds of fame!! Just a question which you or someone else may be able to answer. Do I need to chamfer the sides of the ports, in particularly of the transfer ports. I have managed to do the tops and bottoms, but the sides are hard to get at (unless I buy more files).
Thanks again,
Rich
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Post by richclare on Sept 27, 2017 18:18:08 GMT 1
Ah you guys are just getting all luxury now..... next you'll have a bed in there too! (saves on CCTV cost!)
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Post by richclare on Sept 27, 2017 7:50:46 GMT 1
Thanks guys for your shopping tips . Steeley, if you could post a video that would be very useful. Rich
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Post by richclare on Sept 26, 2017 22:02:06 GMT 1
those shelves are sweet- electric roller door is another genius idea with such a low ceiling- one thing I've learnt today is that no-one questions the need for a bike lift......An ideal world wd be a workshop with room enough for the bikes and a corner for a home office...would love to be sitting there working amongst the bikes....but I think that means moving house....or doing a Dusty and building something in the back garden.....which isn't completely out of the question.....and the Honda is the girlfriends....we used to have it in the front room... Definitely agree with Dusty on the roller door - it was the main regret for my garage. Another thing to change at a later date - add to the list!
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Post by richclare on Sept 26, 2017 21:58:17 GMT 1
Hi , over the years of owning 2 strokes I have built up a bit of a collection of various files . I put a chamfer on the top and bottom of the ports and take the edge off the sides. when its all done I mix up a bucket of hot soapy water and soak and scrub them out . Thanks for the tips steeley. I have yet to find my files. All the ones so far have been too long! You wouldn't have a nice photo of your files, just to tease me😉. Joking aside it may help my search. Cheers Rich
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Post by richclare on Sept 26, 2017 18:44:18 GMT 1
Hi there garage guy I had stuff everywhere until I decided to go 'up'. I found an industrial shelving company as they did a better range of width, depth etc. Good luck with the tidy. Rich I bought shelves like that bit me in the ass last week I was shuffling my two bikes when I nudged the shelves and a punch fell off and put a dent in my mint cordwell mars bar tank😫 PS. My garage still needs a tidy. Ouch, I feel your pain. Is it repairable?
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Post by richclare on Sept 26, 2017 18:32:03 GMT 1
So I did the ring test, as suggested by Steve (midlifecrisisrd). The gap was constant all the way down the bore - sigh of relief!
Next step is to fettle the port openings with a wee chamfer. The more I look at the bore's and pistons (as the scuffing is the same across both barrels) it seems to indicate this is the culprit.
Thanks again for all your opinions and comments.
Rich
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Post by richclare on Sept 26, 2017 17:18:52 GMT 1
Hi there garage guy I had stuff everywhere until I decided to go 'up'. I found an industrial shelving company as they did a better range of width, depth etc. Good luck with the tidy. Rich PS. My garage still needs a tidy.
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Post by richclare on Sept 26, 2017 8:10:17 GMT 1
Hi Steve, There is a thread on here which discusses this topic. I think it was started by 'robin'. I believe there was a thermostat on the Japanese model but not here. You can do a retro fit if you want. HTH Rich Thanks Rich I am going down the originality route so will go with no stat Cheers Steve No worries Steve, I've bought a thermostat but waiting to see how the bike runs in standard form. I will then try to see what affect it has. Rich
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Post by richclare on Sept 26, 2017 6:40:33 GMT 1
Have you got any photos Jon....
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Post by richclare on Sept 25, 2017 21:31:51 GMT 1
My list of 'checks' is getting longer😉
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Post by richclare on Sept 25, 2017 20:57:29 GMT 1
Machines can run off who did your rebore?they can be done on a lathe but there are machines just fore boring cylinders It was a company in France, close to where I live. They just do automotive and bike engineering - skimming, valve work, rebores etc. They were recommended, but you never know. They didn't chamfer the ports!
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Post by richclare on Sept 25, 2017 20:43:00 GMT 1
I'd also put a ring in the bore at different points to check for a taper Use the piston skirt to push it down square in the bore from the top and check every 10mm or so Steve Thanks Steve - will do. I think I will be busy this week😉 Steve, just a question - how can a rebore end up tapered.... I thought it was done on a kind of lathe, so everything was parallel.
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Post by richclare on Sept 25, 2017 20:32:58 GMT 1
I'd also put a ring in the bore at different points to check for a taper Use the piston skirt to push it down square in the bore from the top and check every 10mm or so Steve Thanks Steve - will do. I think I will be busy this week😉
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Post by richclare on Sept 25, 2017 20:22:17 GMT 1
Cheers guys, I appreciate your advice.
Steve & Stusco - I will try the dremel and if that doesn't work then some good old elbow grease with files. I am assuming ALL ports need to be done.
Tobyjugs - Thanks for your optimistic reply.... I was pretty anal with the cleaning of everything and as both cylinders were the same I thought it was something other than foreign matter. I am still trying to solve the water leak. I don't believe it overheated as I was so careful when I started it and let it heat up (feeling the barrels and water hoses to check it heated evenly). The water leak was the reason I discovered the scuffing, so I'm thankful for that.
Thanks again. Really appreciate your expertise.
Rich
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Post by richclare on Sept 25, 2017 19:50:38 GMT 1
Hi Steve,
For the port chamfer, can I remedy this myself? I have a Dremel or is it better with a file? What kind of chamfer - is it just taking the 'edge' off?
Both cylinders were rebored to +1.00. When you say it's not tight, should it be less?
Thanks for replying so quickly.
Rich
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Post by richclare on Sept 25, 2017 19:17:24 GMT 1
Hello again, OK so I first checked the ring gap which is 0.012", so just within the tolerance 0.012-0.018". The photos below show the scoring. What I don't understand is the scoring doesn't go all the way to the top of the bore ie. where the ring upper limit is. If the bore is too big (or even too small) for the piston would it slap around and cause this scoring pattern? Can I measure piston/bore clearance with feeler gauges? Lots of questions, but perhaps someone has had the same. Cheers Rich
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Post by richclare on Sept 25, 2017 11:31:17 GMT 1
Check the ring gap It has been known that the piston clearance is ok but the ring gap is too tight so when they heat up the have no where to expand so damage the bore Steve Thanks Steve, I will check tonight. Rich
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Post by richclare on Sept 25, 2017 11:03:12 GMT 1
Hi everyone,
I have just finished rebuilding a 4l0. I had the cylinders rebored to +1.00 with new mitaka pistons. I have run it through about 4 heat cycles (maybe 45 minutes running in total), trying to sort a small water leak. This morning I took the cylinders off to check the gasket face in detail. On both cylinders and pistons there is light scoring, on the inlet and exhaust sides. Is this normal as the engine hasn't yet been put under any stress (unlike me😣)?
I would appreciate your thoughts.
I will post some photos tonight when I get home.
Cheers,
Rich
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Post by richclare on Sept 25, 2017 10:39:30 GMT 1
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Post by richclare on Sept 25, 2017 10:30:13 GMT 1
Hi Steve,
There is a thread on here which discusses this topic. I think it was started by 'robin'. I believe there was a thermostat on the Japanese model but not here. You can do a retro fit if you want.
HTH
Rich
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Post by richclare on Sept 11, 2017 21:31:08 GMT 1
I appreciate you checking, thank you. This may be a daft question - why do crossover exhaust systems exist - is there a technical or performance advantage? Cheers Rich Hi Rich, its a good question, the header length is important to the design and performance of the exhaust, if they where made with straight headers then the silencer would be level or even past the end of the rear wheel, or very close to it anyway, so making them crossover loses a lot of that length thereby making them look much better when fitted to the bike as the exhaust finishes in and around the rear wheel spindle so maintains the clean lines of the bike HTH ... and I thought it may be a daft question! Thanks for the simple explanation - I will be looking at every exhaust now... Thanks again, Rich
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Post by richclare on Sept 11, 2017 18:16:15 GMT 1
I've just checked the belly pan, the one I have fits but that's because its been modified, so just tried a pro-am one and its very tight, so would either need longer brackets or the pipes tweaking, I'll have a word and see what options are available, I will double check the main stand when I get 5 mins I appreciate you checking, thank you. This may be a daft question - why do crossover exhaust systems exist - is there a technical or performance advantage? Cheers Rich
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Post by richclare on Sept 11, 2017 9:55:17 GMT 1
They look rather nice..... Indeed! Would a belly pan fit over the cross-over?
Rich
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Post by richclare on Sept 6, 2017 19:36:59 GMT 1
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Post by richclare on Sept 6, 2017 19:10:38 GMT 1
Hi Steve,
I bought the same. If I remember I packed the roller cages with grease to hold the needles in place. I put the shorter bearing in first, followed by the longer. I believed the larger was better on the outside where the load might be.
The stepped washer then goes in afterwards. I have some photos which may help. I will go and have a look.
Rich
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Post by richclare on Sept 3, 2017 17:24:30 GMT 1
Just a bit of fun - all the old parts that I replaced (doesn't include the bits that were missing ....) Rich
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Post by richclare on Aug 6, 2017 20:38:53 GMT 1
Lookin' good Rich. Well done. Thanks Gary.... the pump seems to be working well with the end moving in and out. I still have to bleed it and check the settings. My neighbour came round when he heard the bike had started and was drawn immediately to your pump. He said it reminded him of a Swiss watch!! Thank you, again, for your detailed work and help with the worm drive.
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Post by richclare on Aug 6, 2017 20:23:48 GMT 1
Evening, I got the paintwork back on to the bike. After a year of restoring, it was a great moment. Put the fluids in the appropriate holes and put some premix in the tank. I honestly expected the motor not to start. After the 3rd kick she burst in to life...... holy c**p!! I have certainly not finished, but would like to thank everyone here on the forum. It would have been a much harder experience without all those photos and tips. I have learnt loads and had some fun too. Cheers for now, Rich
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