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Post by Tobyjugs on May 14, 2024 14:33:52 GMT 1
I went by the information given out by the manufacturer RIK.
I need to check the website. i was pretty sure it was bigger than 0.45 mm for the 350cc engine
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Post by Tobyjugs on May 14, 2024 12:55:19 GMT 1
Sharp throttle response could be due to the engine being a bit lean on the pilots etc.
The first engine i tuned was via a magazine and it was a 250. I ruined it. it took off like a scolded cat at 8,000+ rpm.
it was really shit on the motorway and would almost die until you revved the crap out of it. it would be easier to give everyone the full engine spec.
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Post by Tobyjugs on May 14, 2024 12:34:26 GMT 1
Off the top of my head 0.20 or 0.25mm mm.
As mentioned above if your going to a professional get the cylinders measured. Sometimes you have varying dimensions in the barrel.
In the past i built one engine up but left it to the last moment. When finishing it off the piston ring gaps from both pistons was too big. They were 0.67 and 0.68 mm. Without checking i think no go is either 0.60 or 0.65.
I ended up using them. It felt a bit sluggish until it hit the powerband then it felt ok. I replaced the piston rings later when i had the time. Can't say i felt any difference. it was a standard engine except foam filters and expansion chambers, I'm used to engines in the 60 to 70 Pk area so that's why i say it felt a bit sluggish.
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Post by Tobyjugs on May 14, 2024 9:47:22 GMT 1
Not exactly true as i didn't take into account the diameter of the rear tire but these answers are not too far away from the truth.
16/41 at 10.000 rpm = 113.5 mph
16/42 at 10.000 rpm = 110.8 mph
17/41 at 10.000 rpm = 117.7 mph
A healthy standard 250 should just top the ton.
so i just spoke to him and he said because it is an offset gearbox sprocket with 17 teeth he cannot get an offset 16 standard for a 520 chain in case the wheel size is also an issue this is what he is running .... 150 / 60 / 17 were does he go next do you think....? just a case of just working with the rear sprocket for adjustment ?? ZiG Not exactly Standard so this makes my quote a little more accurate. It's a 250 so you have to change gear at the correct rpm to get the best out of it in the top two gears (rag it ) Tonight i will post a couple of different size back sprockets based on standard gear box and primary gears for you tonight. if the primaries are different this will also have an effect on your final gearing.
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Post by Tobyjugs on May 13, 2024 22:14:11 GMT 1
Not exactly true as i didn't take into account the diameter of the rear tire but these answers are not too far away from the truth.
16/41 at 10.000 rpm = 113.5 mph
16/42 at 10.000 rpm = 110.8 mph
17/41 at 10.000 rpm = 117.7 mph
A healthy standard 250 should just top the ton.
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Post by Tobyjugs on May 13, 2024 17:14:38 GMT 1
Very nice. I was thinking about where it goes into the throttle housing.
Silly me!
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Post by Tobyjugs on May 13, 2024 10:07:46 GMT 1
That's exactly what i did. I used a piece of ally pipe which was the correct size. Cut it open, gently eased it over the cable then used some loctite bearing retainer and glued it to the nipple. That was my next step and I even pulled out a piece of ally round bar to use. It can look neat and tidy. Not many people will notice it.
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Post by Tobyjugs on May 12, 2024 23:34:56 GMT 1
Standard 250 gearing should be enough to hit the ton
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Post by Tobyjugs on May 12, 2024 15:13:04 GMT 1
That's exactly what i did. I used a piece of ally pipe which was the correct size. Cut it open, gently eased it over the cable then used some loctite bearing retainer and glued it to the nipple.
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Post by Tobyjugs on May 10, 2024 21:20:06 GMT 1
Have you got a picture to post on the forum? Bitza 350. Built, (largely), from the bits left over in the garage/shed/loft, once my other 2 builds were complete. All I needed to buy was a frame. (It didn't quite work out that way ) I have just robbed it of the 31K carbs which it was happily running, to put on the "real" 350LC rebuild. The 4L0 carb I had lined up for it don't work, (unsurprising after 30 years in the shed), so I thought I'd revert to the RG carbs which I had been running for the past 20 years. They are a bit of a trial to fit, due to the big, and short connecting pipes between the carbs for fuel sharing, and choke circuit. ...and of course there is no chance that the LC throttle cable is the right length, resulting in some innovation I took it out for a spin, but when warm, the engine dies when the throttle is closed, making it an interesting last few miles home through heavy traffic. When I last had these carbs fitted, the bike had a different engine tune (Bob Farnham "road" tune then. Stan Stephens stage 2 now), different pipes, (31K then, 1UA now), but probably most importantly, I just remembered I used to run it without an airbox lid and filter. This leads me to think that my pilots are probably massively oversized... which I will be addressing tomorrow. (by removing the airbox lid and filter ) . . . . . . The "Real 350LC rebuild... I thought i had the same carbs but the ones i have are on an angle so they must be TZR carbs.
I have a modified induction system made for the standard size LC carbs but they're right on the limit of what they can flow they are using P8 needle valves now. Not ideal as just before 5000 rpm there is a fluffy spot. I don't want to modify the induction system to fit a 28mm carb and hope that the 26 mm TMX carbs will work that little bit better.
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Post by Tobyjugs on May 10, 2024 15:36:34 GMT 1
Fitted a pair of Mikuni 28mm flatslides from a Suzuki RG250 to my "bitsa" 350LC Have you got a picture to post on the forum?
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Post by Tobyjugs on May 10, 2024 11:15:47 GMT 1
Another MOT victory for the mighty YSR80...can get out and about on this this evening i hope. They Look great!
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Post by Tobyjugs on May 9, 2024 13:55:48 GMT 1
At the moment i'm just preparing this bike for it's next outing when all of a sudden out of the blue the postman delivers me a package.
Last september i decided i liked the little "mountain bike sized back brake caliper" the one fitted is a Chinese copy. Last September i ordered the genuine caliper only to hear "We are not sure when we will make some more of this model. we will return your money" i told them to keep the money and i would wait. At last it turned up and here it is.
Happy as Larry
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Post by Tobyjugs on May 9, 2024 13:44:21 GMT 1
I've been oiling me pipes up today.
I love the colour of bare steel pipes with a bit of heat in them
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Post by Tobyjugs on May 7, 2024 23:21:30 GMT 1
Fess up. Who ate some of the tomatoes and barely touched the corn on the cob? Alex They are peppers for the vegetarian guests.
I love corn on the cobb and was just being polite, biding my time before i snaffled them up
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Post by Tobyjugs on May 7, 2024 22:41:51 GMT 1
Started jetting these old school Mikuni power jet carbs. They have no provision for idle. The first time I started the bike it was a bit fluffy and when riding any more than 1/4 throttle the engine would cut out. I dropped the pilot jets down from 70’s to 60’s and main jets down from 240’s to 190’s. Started without that fluffy feeling but was even worse to ride. Upped the main jets to 300’s, still sounds good at idle and small improvement with riding but still cutting out. With the chokes pulled open it doesn’t cut out and I had the feeling I was sitting on the back of a scolded cat. Just a feeling as this engine has newly honed cylinders and new pistons so not even a mile on it yet. The next step is to try some 400 main jets and double check the float heights. Not had much time lately for playing with bikes and only had an hour on this before it got dark. As you can see this bike isn’t very roadworthy. All testing was done on a private track! After spending a couple more hours last Saturday trying to jet the carbs i decided i need some bigger needle valves. Not knowing how long that will take i reverted to the standard carbs.
This meant checking the carbs were ok and fitting the jets etc which i have done so much of i just checked to see if the bike would start.
So today the bike was in the van on the way to the dyno bank.
The fine adjustment was two sizes up on the main jets from 440 to 460 and drop the needles down one notch from the center position.
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Post by Tobyjugs on May 6, 2024 20:42:53 GMT 1
cheers I know being way too critical... I just need to stop fussing and get on with putting it back together... I noticed that the bearing surface on the selector drum was quite pitted perhaps worn the needle roller side behind star. It felt smooth running finger over the surface so just polished with some autosol nothing catches or snagged. Assume replacement only option but new bearing does feel ok and no issues before strip down second thoughts about loctite now blue or purple.. took out that selector drum screw no loctite so someone in the past must have replaced the bearing... then again chanced having to replace that bearing again is probably zero so best blue as Jon said.. Personally i would use the purple loctite 222. It's doesn't have to be King Kong tight!
Check the selector drum where the bearing sits. Ive have a few which have indentations from the needle bearing rollers.
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Post by Tobyjugs on May 6, 2024 9:59:06 GMT 1
In Holland an mot is not needed for motorcycles. My daily driver is an old series 2 Landy and an mot is not needed for that.I always send it for a pretend mot. This is because I tend to ride it into the ground and a mot check tells me to change brake pads etc. I have sports car which hardly gets ridden but I always keep it spic and span just in case I want to do a track day.
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Post by Tobyjugs on May 1, 2024 7:36:05 GMT 1
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Post by Tobyjugs on Apr 29, 2024 9:40:55 GMT 1
Loctite 5910 will work very well, but it might hold your cases together too well when it comes time to split them. Probably expensive as well.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Apr 24, 2024 19:58:17 GMT 1
I use lots of different types of loctite for my work. Aluminium is not so tough as steel and can be damaged/worn out quicker than steel. So I always use 542 which is a sealant. I think it is a little softer on the threads and is still strong enough to lock them. That's just my experience.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Apr 24, 2024 19:48:32 GMT 1
the DRC043 kit fits 250/350LC's, 250/350 YPVS/RZ's, RD250/350 and 400 A/C, and of course 350 Banhsee quads, you need to ditch the rubber rings between the plates as the fibres are wider than stock Yamaha, but the fibres and steels are the correct thickness and therefore give the correct stack height, which is very important. The kit comes with 6 15% heavy duty springs, in most cases you can either run with stock springs if a stock bike, or 3 EBC springs and 3 stock springs if the bike has been tweaked/tuned, I've run engines with 70+bhp with 3 EBC and 3 stock springs with no slippage You can also get a carbon fibre high performance kit, which is even better, but they cost around £100(ish), instead of the £78 for the DRC043 HTH I've just been searching for the EBC clutch kit number and come across this thread. To be honest I just want the full steel plates. I feel because there is no filter for the gearbox the carbon particles can wear the rest of the gearbox out quicker. What's your thoughts or experience on this? I've tried them from a dirt digger set and they work great but I took them out because of thoughts of wear.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Apr 20, 2024 8:02:11 GMT 1
This is the best type in my opinion. It just takes more imagination to plum it in. You shouldn’t get any Yo Yo effect with this. This one is from a Super Cart engine. I didn’t fit it at first because I thought it was too small. That opinion has changed now after seeing how big the hole is on the pressure side of the pump. I have also got a bigger version of the above which comes from a snow mobile,
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Post by Tobyjugs on Apr 16, 2024 18:13:45 GMT 1
Congratulations
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Post by Tobyjugs on Apr 15, 2024 17:32:05 GMT 1
Started jetting these old school Mikuni power jet carbs. They have no provision for idle. The first time I started the bike it was a bit fluffy and when riding any more than 1/4 throttle the engine would cut out. I dropped the pilot jets down from 70’s to 60’s and main jets down from 240’s to 190’s. Started without that fluffy feeling but was even worse to ride. Upped the main jets to 300’s, still sounds good at idle and small improvement with riding but still cutting out. With the chokes pulled open it doesn’t cut out and I had the feeling I was sitting on the back of a scolded cat. Just a feeling as this engine has newly honed cylinders and new pistons so not even a mile on it yet. The next step is to try some 400 main jets and double check the float heights. Not had much time lately for playing with bikes and only had an hour on this before it got dark. As you can see this bike isn’t very roadworthy. All testing was done on a private track!
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Post by Tobyjugs on Apr 15, 2024 14:38:31 GMT 1
Is your engine gone from 570cc to 750cc?
That’s a massive jump or typing error?
What kind off performance figures are you aiming at?
I never took much interest in these types of engines until my friend decided to make new cylinders based on a more radical port and cooling water design.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Apr 15, 2024 12:38:58 GMT 1
Did I see a Mermaid in that film?
A very sober film. Great post.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Apr 5, 2024 0:49:20 GMT 1
Hi Tim that is a lovely and very rare special bike you have built. Reading posts you have made in the past I guess your not short of a bob or room for storage. Personally I would keep it for those special days, but I know time would still have to be spent on maintenance so that it is ready to go when you want it to. They’re not like a Suzuki Bandit, just press the button and go. Have you ever thought about trying to perfect some of the bits you think could be improved? You could look at them as special single projects which would make very interesting threads on this forum. Just imagine if it is sold to someone who paints it a lurid colour then runs the builder down for using the wrong bolts, calls him a monkey and he will fix it all. Then fits a Wind Jammer fairing on it. People will still think it’s your original build because of the design Good luck with your choice.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Apr 5, 2024 0:21:00 GMT 1
Hi Alex as mentioned above a bearing retainer medium is good to to use in the correct circumstances and certain engineering designs need it. I use it a lot.
I would use it for your application as long as the bearing is not too loose.
Go to the loctite website as there are plenty to choose from and try to pick one which suits your application best.
I always consider the the clearance I have between the two parts as very important.
Off the top of my head I would say 648 is a good allround bearing retainer medium. Not sure but 638 could be a better choice for aluminium. Best check the Henkel website.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Mar 19, 2024 14:43:40 GMT 1
The first thing I’ would do is double check the temperature readings.
It’s very good it hasn’t seized at 120 C
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