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Post by Tobyjugs on Feb 29, 2024 12:34:14 GMT 1
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Post by Tobyjugs on Feb 29, 2024 12:29:24 GMT 1
Yes on 50cc Freetech race bikes. It's all tiny gains towards different needs of the racers. I've also done similar on my engines but not really seen any big gains. The reed spacer worked best on a 4L0 engine fitted with YPVS reeds. I think the YPVS reeds interfere with the middle transfer duct a little. 6mm gave possibly 2pk in the midrange and there was no extra gain with a 10mm spacer fitted. I would say good to use for a specific engine goal. Interesting. I was running some 6mm 3D printed plastic spacers between the barrels and YPVS dual stage carbon reeds on my 4L0. When stripping it after one of the reeds broke I noticed the plastic spacer was being deformed by the smaller gasket surface that resulted from the barrels being carved out to fit the YPVS reeds. So it got rebuilt with new oem yam steel reeds and no spacers. I cannot really say I noticed any loss of performance, but I don`t know how long the dual stage reed had been playing up for before one failed completely , one outer petal being sucked through the dual reed window. Its running nicely now, but I have some NOS LEDAR nozzles to try , then I may try some alloy 6mm spacers. I`m not sure my "Arse Dyno" is sensitive enough to pick up small, 2HP, changes though ! I would also like to try both the ledar nozzles and the dual stage reeds. People give the reeds a bad reputation for not performing, but i think they probably will work well for the midrange gang. That's exactly what I'm trying to say about the spacers unless it's part of a plan you won't notice much unless you are measuring on a dyno.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Feb 29, 2024 9:15:55 GMT 1
Yes on 50cc Freetech race bikes. It's all tiny gains towards different needs of the racers. I've also done similar on my engines but not really seen any big gains.
The reed spacer worked best on a 4L0 engine fitted with YPVS reeds. I think the YPVS reeds interfere with the middle transfer duct a little.
6mm gave possibly 2pk in the midrange and there was no extra gain with a 10mm spacer fitted.
I would say good to use for a specific engine goal.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Feb 29, 2024 7:15:36 GMT 1
Just being tested Great I don't have to make them anymore. Let me know when they are for sale Rob
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TZR 250
Feb 28, 2024 9:55:50 GMT 1
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Post by Tobyjugs on Feb 28, 2024 9:55:50 GMT 1
A lovely bike but it a bit slow to react to the throttle.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Feb 27, 2024 14:23:51 GMT 1
When I saw this video it reminded me of some of the Diesel fitters I worked with in the past.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Feb 27, 2024 13:51:15 GMT 1
Yes that's what I tried to say. The same as on Racing bikes a piece undeder the yokes. I have seen perpex fitted and when clean you have to look twice to recognise it. I totally agree the bike looks great as it is.
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MT2
Feb 27, 2024 12:34:31 GMT 1
via mobile
Post by Tobyjugs on Feb 27, 2024 12:34:31 GMT 1
Today I set to making some larger rad scoops out of computer heatsink. Big as I could go allowing for clearance on the forks at full lock. I had some smaller ones on before and they did make a difference as not only do they help direct air towards the rad, but they also help dissipate some heat as they absorb heat from the rad and as such, provide extra surface area for getting rid of the heat. More work to do on these but for now, it's a matter of so far so good..... Oh, ignore the colour, they'll likely get anodised black once finalised. I have also made a scoop/shroud around the top of the radiator. This also helps yo direct air into the cooling area and stops it passing over the top of the radiato. Another loose plan I had for extra cooling if it was needed on one of my bikes was to fit a mini bike radiator in the Vee of a belly pan. I'm not sure if you could get away with that on this bike. Those radiators are also very cheap.
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MT2
Feb 27, 2024 12:26:11 GMT 1
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Post by Tobyjugs on Feb 27, 2024 12:26:11 GMT 1
Had a play about with the cooling system this afternoon, not sure how viewable the image will be but here goes.... Good to see some data from testing. This was all done at tickover? What is the reason or thoughts for this? Will you also do the same tests with load?
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Post by Tobyjugs on Feb 27, 2024 9:54:35 GMT 1
Not sure how relevant this is, but I swap engines in and out of the LC's now and then. I put a little two stroke oil in the cylinders, make sure that all in and out holes are blanked off and pour engine oil or flushing oil into the crank space until it quite full.
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Tyres
Feb 27, 2024 9:19:39 GMT 1
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Post by Tobyjugs on Feb 27, 2024 9:19:39 GMT 1
You can also try Heidenau brand. I've heard lots of positive remarks from the classic bike racers about them. I've got a set on std rims but have only done 400 miles on the road. So can't really comment much on them.
Bridgestone S21's and S22's I like alot, but they wear out quickly. I am just about to order some R10's or R11's in a H rating if I can find them. I've used the V rated R11's on a 443cc powered bike with no complaints. They warm up quickly.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Feb 27, 2024 6:02:33 GMT 1
Collected this Beauty from Dave at Mutts Nuts!! 421!!! by Keith Tiplady, on Flickr It wasn't today but on Friday the utter god that is Dave Whattam ran the motor back up for me, very pleased with that chart!!! 421 dyno by Keith Tiplady, on Flickr Nice power output. That's definitely not in the LC Caravan Club!
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Post by Tobyjugs on Feb 26, 2024 9:59:37 GMT 1
My favourite design is from Randy Mamola.
I also like the Caribbean style sun with the smiley face. Similar to a few of Rossi's designs. I still can't forgive him for making flurescent yellow/green colours popular.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Feb 26, 2024 9:52:43 GMT 1
Gotta be my AGV Kenny Roberts replica Pity it’s too old to use now. I keep thinking of having a new helmet painted up the same, but it’d cost too much Do it Bill We only live once.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Feb 17, 2024 16:40:43 GMT 1
I have made polyurethane parts in the past and it was always a bit hit and miss with the shore once made.
Sometimes too hard and sometimes too soft using the same resin/compounds. The mixing seems to be very critical Do you know what the ideal shore hardness would be? No sorry i don't but i could try to measure it for you if the meter is in the company workshop.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Feb 17, 2024 6:57:42 GMT 1
anyone know if the seat unit is available ? best looking lc single seat i have ever seen guessing it could be a one off too mart +1
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Post by Tobyjugs on Feb 16, 2024 21:14:44 GMT 1
A set of early R6 (right way up) forks gives you a nice comfy ride which i like on my road bike, Plus i found out early R1 upside down forks will bolt straight in. Never used them, so can't comment on how good that set up is.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Feb 16, 2024 20:59:19 GMT 1
I have made polyurethane parts in the past and it was always a bit hit and miss with the shore once made.
Sometimes too hard and sometimes too soft using the same resin/compounds. The mixing seems to be very critical
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MT2
Feb 13, 2024 10:03:35 GMT 1
via mobile
Post by Tobyjugs on Feb 13, 2024 10:03:35 GMT 1
My personal experience and preference is to adjust the flow so that you have no more than 1 degree maximum temperature difference between entering and leaving the engine. That is without a thermostat in the system. Is that at tickover? No running temperature. It is a bit of a juggling game which also has a lot to do with the efficiency of the radiator. But aim for a degree max when running at shall we say 7000rpm. You need good flow through the engine or it will get hot. Standard pump is good enough. Think of the radiator like a river. Big river slow flow small river faster flow, the bigger the radiator generally it will flow slower. The in out temperature of engine is important.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Feb 12, 2024 22:28:28 GMT 1
My personal experience and preference is to adjust the flow so that you have no more than 1 degree maximum temperature difference between entering and leaving the engine. That is without a thermostat in the system.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Feb 10, 2024 12:55:45 GMT 1
I see. I use non insulated connectors and only solder the clip bit not the strain relief bit. So in theory the wire still remains flexible from the connector end. Jon Hi Jon i use non insulated connectors an then insulate them with the correct plastic sheath. I'm not really to savvy when it comes to Electrickery. There are so many different types of connection blocks to choose from, i always wonder which is the best type. To be honest i really don't like those coloured plastic connectors and only use them when i have no other choice. In the past i have had a small bollocking via PM about my wiring from a member here. I always look up to him so 9 times out of ten i listen to him and take his advice very seriously.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Feb 10, 2024 12:45:02 GMT 1
In The past i have read not to solder connectors on vehicles etc. Personally i thought fussy buggers. My Bakker bike creates more vibration than a standard bike and the only wire which i soldered failed. Maybe just coincidence but i try to avoid soldering now. Purely out of interest which wire was it? Jon It was an earth connector from the rpm meter to the chassis i used an old connector which i cut off another wire and soldered it.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Feb 10, 2024 12:29:21 GMT 1
In The past i have read not to solder connectors on vehicles etc. Personally i thought fussy buggers. My Bakker bike creates more vibration than a standard bike and the only wire which i soldered failed. Maybe just coincidence but i try to avoid soldering now.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Feb 10, 2024 12:13:51 GMT 1
Actually when i think about it we use and aluminum gasket material which is made up of lots of thin layers. You fit the component onto the engine measure the clearances then remove the component and peel the layers away until you have reached the correct tolerances. A bit too "over the top" for this sort of repair.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Feb 10, 2024 12:00:19 GMT 1
The Engine case Al has was the first one i did. Thank you for the nice words but you still need to fill in a few pits etc. A few years back Norbo offered a load of scuffed up cases for sale or a trip to the tip with them. At that moment i was in clutch mode and thought i could use them for dry clutches. They were mostly 4L0 cases. Fast forward a year or two i made some jigs for making dry clutches easy to make with out spending (expensive?) time aligning components on lathes and milling machines. Apart from the water and oil pump differences, there are other differences between the YPVS and 4L0 cases. Basically the 4L0 case is thinner/more delicate compared to the beefier YPVS case. It just so happens that one of the jigs is also good for road rash repairs. Still not that easy to do because you have to take distortion into consideration. So far no complaints from the other two people i have helped. Luckily not forum members so no spotlight .
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Post by Tobyjugs on Feb 10, 2024 11:38:44 GMT 1
I don't see any problems with using a spacer. It might come in handy as you can adjust the cylinders to the correct height depending on their condition and state of tune.
A very good sealant to use once you have the correct height etc. and are in the final build process is Loctite 5910. If i ever get a bad leak difficult to cure this is the stuff to use. Just one small problem with this stuff is it can be difficult to part the components when you need to strip them back down.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Feb 10, 2024 11:07:13 GMT 1
I've never owned that many bikes, but the worst bike for me was a Yamaha XS850 tripple. I swapped a Honda XL650 for it. I was in Australia at the time and i kept breaking the the Honda cylinder head(s) so swapped it after i repaired it. At that time in Ozz they would repair the roads and just make a dirt track next to the road. These dirt tracks were kilometers long and i could drive just as fast on the dirt track as on the road with the Honda. The XS was another Kettle of fish. On the road it was heavy to turn and felt very lardy compared to the Honda. On those dirt roads it was like "an ice skater on LSD" very scary and you had to slow down. For some reason to this day there was still something i liked about it (not sure what it was). I still like the Gpz 900r i have now joined a forum but have never posted yet. Just liked them ever since i saw one. I think it's that Darth Vader look. Unfortunately i have been seduced to the darkside, my bike is not fast enough and i need to turbocharge it. That's a long way off maybe more dream than reality. I do have a spare turbo charger for the Land Rover I wonder if that will fit?
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Post by Tobyjugs on Feb 9, 2024 14:02:11 GMT 1
Yes I have repaired a couple now. They are still not perfect but everything was a little better each time i did it. First the gravel rash cleaned up and then welded. Second the welding is machined to suit the rest of the case. The most important part is preparing a good surface to weld onto and then make sure you put enough weld on. I think this method is not cost effective when you consider the effort and material costs involved. Plus still a bit shonky.
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Gt750
Feb 5, 2024 20:20:05 GMT 1
Post by Tobyjugs on Feb 5, 2024 20:20:05 GMT 1
I like that. a big lump for a small chunky chassis. Very nice.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Feb 3, 2024 21:01:51 GMT 1
It was and still is a stunner.
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