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Post by looey on Jan 22, 2018 23:36:17 GMT 1
You know me better than that, if I were buying anything, I would view and collect it myself. Selling
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Post by looey on Jan 22, 2018 23:20:45 GMT 1
Cheers, thanks
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Post by looey on Jan 22, 2018 20:34:11 GMT 1
Might need a bike collecting and delivering in the near future.
I will message Mr Koptite of course but has anyone used any other companies recently that they would recommend to get a quote from ?.
Cheers
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Post by looey on Jan 17, 2018 11:23:49 GMT 1
Hey Mr Dusty, I had this exact same problem with Tracey's R1-Z after I rebuilt the Calipers, I hadn't touched the master cylinder, so I knew there was nothing wrong with it. But..... it did turn out to be trapped air in the master cylinder. If you operated the brake lever in and out fairly quickly but only in as far as to just move the master cylinder piston a fraction, then tiny little air bubbles would come up out of the smaller return hole. Took about 2 hours of operating the lever like that and tapping the master cylinder gently occasionally and eventually the bubbles stopped and the brakes were absolutely perfect. Might not be this on yours but could be. Is the reservoir the remote type with a pipe, or an all-in-one metal unit ?. Probably more awkward with remote reservoir type I would've thought.
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Post by looey on Dec 13, 2017 23:01:14 GMT 1
Never dripped a drop . REALLY 😜 Yes, REALLY !!!, and I deeply resemble that comment Mr Botty
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Post by looey on Dec 13, 2017 13:29:29 GMT 1
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Post by looey on Dec 11, 2017 11:55:25 GMT 1
And don't put the glue on the throttle tube, as the the grip will just push it all up into a mess at the switch gear end.
Make sure the throttle tube and inside of the grip are perfectly clean and put the glue/spray on the inside of the grip.
Like Oldelsieboy, I usually spray hairspray around the inside the grip, slide it on, give it a twist to distribute the adhesive, then leave it 24hrs
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Post by looey on Dec 8, 2017 10:41:19 GMT 1
Having moved 17 times in the last 27 years and having had my bikes in all different types of storage, I'd have to disagree with some of the recommendations above, in particular ventilation.
Sure, it's better the have ventilation in a non-insulated, non-heated shed for example but I've learned over time that the only way to stop condensation on your bike (unless in a cocoon or bubble), is to keep the ambient temperature constant around the bike.
Condensation only usually forms when warmer moist air hits colder surfaces, so if you have a cold period of weather and everything metal (particularly the petrol tank up to the fuel level) is freezing cold, and then the weather changes to a milder temperature, the warmer air hits the colder metal surfaces and that's when most of your condensation occurs.
Keep temperature of the area around the bike constant (either cold or warm) and condensation will not occur on the metal parts.
My current garage is not heated but is totally insulated from the outside and I don't get any condensation. But in the scenario I have mentioned above, there are times when it is colder in my garage than it is outside. Keep the doors shut and absolutely no problem, open up the garage door when it is warmer outside, and within a minute of the warmer air coming in to the garage, everything metal is covered in condensation.
So I reckon you have 3 options, bring the bike in the house over winter, keep it in a bubble or cocoon, or stop the temperature fluctuating over short periods in your shed or garage.
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Post by looey on Nov 2, 2017 22:45:19 GMT 1
Good news Mr Mouse Looking forwaed to seeing this rebuilt, one of the nicest LC2 Hybrid's around
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Post by looey on Oct 26, 2017 17:27:26 GMT 1
Does say on some functions that they are aware of a problem and fixing it ?
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Post by looey on Oct 26, 2017 17:25:56 GMT 1
Working for me, just uploaded a picture to test
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Post by looey on Oct 25, 2017 19:22:44 GMT 1
Luckily for me, I only ever uploaded pics onto Photof*ckup that I already had saved onto my PC Once a month I backup my phone and camera to my PC, then backup my PC to an external drive. As they say........., your data is only as good as your last backup !
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Post by looey on Oct 24, 2017 15:53:13 GMT 1
Looey, The only way I've found of downloading from Photof**kers to my computer is to click on the pic you want so it shows up as a big picture, then right click and "save as". It's gonna take forever if you have lots to grab back Dusty Yeah I've done em now, ta mate. Just went through them one by one (then it gives you a download button). I guess getting $500 from all the businesses that were forced to pay it, that was worth screwing millions of people around the world for Would serve em right if it backfired and they went under as a result I certainly won't be going on thee again, w*nkers
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Post by looey on Oct 22, 2017 10:17:57 GMT 1
I've done this lots of times, turning the tap to the off position, running the bike till it stopped, then removed the carbs to find a fair amount of petrol still in the float bowls !. What I've found is,.... with the tap in the off position, it effectively stops any fuel leaving the pipes etc. (like say holding a straw vertically full of liquid and having your finger on the top, which stops the liquid draining out). Then over time, the fuel finds its way out of the pipes down into the carbs and puts a fair amount of fuel back in the float bowls What I do now is,..... turn the fuel off, disconnect the line/lines from the tap, then run the bike till it dies. For the last 10 seconds or so, as you can hear it starting to run out, using the choke will keep it running for a good 10-15 seconds more. Once that's done, I put plugged stubs of petrol pipe of the fuel tap outlets to eliminate any chance of fuel getting past the tap and down into the carbs. Doing all these things (pipes off tap, block tap outlets and using choke at the end of running) will make the bike run for a good 20-30 seconds more and will pretty much empty the carbs. It's what I do anyway and never had carb probs when a bike has sat over the whole of winter.
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Post by looey on Oct 21, 2017 12:07:41 GMT 1
Yeah I'm using Flikr, as it's part of Yahoo and I didn't even need to register.
How long before they start trying to charge ?.
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Post by looey on Oct 21, 2017 11:23:43 GMT 1
Can anyone check if that option's gone or it's just me ?.
Even if I select just one photo, the options pop up but nothing to download, just move about within Photobucket !.
Not the end of the world for me, as every singe picture I have on there I have uploaded from my PC, just woulda been nice just to group them.
If the option's gone, I'll just delete my account
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Post by looey on Oct 21, 2017 11:05:52 GMT 1
Have Photobucket removed the option to download albums ?.
Wouldn't surprise me if they've realised they've made it too easy for everyone to get their pictures off.
If I look at any of my albums, I don't get that option.
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Post by looey on Oct 20, 2017 9:23:49 GMT 1
The problem I have is that I've got a 31k throttle tube in an F2 housing/switchgear, so god knows what that combination does.
I've got 31k carbs and a Norbo Jap quality throttle cable, so pretty sure the tube is the problem.
I made a couple of spacers either end of the top cable for now and got rid of the excess free play but next week I'll see if I can modify the 31K tube, if not, I'll order an F2 tube from Yambits and see if that sorts it.
I'll let you know Jon
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Post by looey on Oct 19, 2017 21:24:43 GMT 1
Cheers for that Mr Dusty I'll get mine off in the next few days (doing front calipers at mo) and measure up, see if I can modify it like has been suggested to make it work
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Post by looey on Oct 19, 2017 18:31:25 GMT 1
Cut a groove in the tube for the cable so it reaches the next hole no more slack ps it was a nos f2 tube and I cut it to fit my lc grips That's a good suggestion, I'll have a look see if that's an option on mine. Cheers
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Post by looey on Oct 19, 2017 15:21:22 GMT 1
Good call Norbo, anyone know how long the F2 tube should measure ?, or can measure one for us ?. Is the F2 tube longer than the LC2/31k does nyone know ?. I currently have an 31K/LC2 throttle tube in an F2 switchgear and it's impossible to get the slack out of the cable .
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Post by looey on Oct 19, 2017 12:37:01 GMT 1
I need one too... so interested in this... Why don't you buy the Yambits one (£6.99 + delivery) and let me know if it's any good ?
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Post by looey on Oct 19, 2017 11:54:36 GMT 1
I need to buy an F2 throttle tube. Norbo doesn't seem to list them at all (unless I couldn't see them for looking) ?. I know Yambits is a swear word on here (mainly for seals I know ) but has anyone tried their pattern F2 throttle tube ?. Cheers
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Post by looey on Oct 12, 2017 10:49:14 GMT 1
Done and fitted.
Bit fiddly but good results.
All the old rubber parts that came out we’re like concrete covered in syrup lol
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Post by looey on Oct 12, 2017 9:20:01 GMT 1
Thanks mate,
I was pretty sure that was the only option but wanted to be sure before I did it.
Thanks again
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Post by looey on Oct 11, 2017 22:36:58 GMT 1
Anyone replaced the diaphragm in a YPVS Petrol Tap ?. The diaphragm has 2 parts and doesn't look like it comes apart ?. Am I right that one side needs to be pulled through the hole in the centre of the plastic section that sits in-between them ?. Is that right ?, looks like it would damage it getting it through Cheers
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Post by looey on Oct 10, 2017 20:31:41 GMT 1
Just a thought.....
The last one I did was on a 350LC but I researched the seal dimensions and bought a double lipped seal from a bearing company.
Didn't leak again
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Post by looey on Oct 10, 2017 20:08:44 GMT 1
Yeah, no problem.
Can be a bit awkward to hook the old seal out but new one will just tap in.
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oh no
Oct 9, 2017 20:28:03 GMT 1
Post by looey on Oct 9, 2017 20:28:03 GMT 1
Bummer What's your setup (carb, jetting, airbox/pod etc.)?, they very rarely have timing/ignition issues and with the right jetting you can thrash them all day. I have thrashed mine to death for several thousand miles and it's been fine  Used one of those eBay carbs so don't know what jets are in it looking at it it's been running lean slight melted piston top on bore hopefully be able to hone it Ouch, well there's ya problem. RD's need to be upjetted off the standard exhaust, I doubt any carb off eBay would be jetted right out the box. What type of carb is it ? 10W ? If you can post your barrel, I can put you in-touch with a decent bloke to do you a rebore & piston.
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Post by looey on Oct 9, 2017 19:22:17 GMT 1
The 130/650-18 Cantilever is specifically designed for the LC and YPVS, went straight in my F2 without any mods. If you look on eBay (Dennis Trollope is the man), he sells them specifically for them Concrete tyres !, holy smoke
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