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Post by mattybeckett on Oct 21, 2017 18:39:50 GMT 1
Just wondering if it might be best to drain float bowls or leave full while hibernating over the winter months.
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Oct 21, 2017 18:44:55 GMT 1
Turn off the fuel and let it run till it dies
The float bowls have vents so the fuel will evaporate and possibly leave residue
Steve
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Post by copper99 on Oct 21, 2017 18:45:30 GMT 1
They have drain scews fitted on them for such a reason.
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Post by bezzer on Oct 21, 2017 18:47:17 GMT 1
Personally I’d drain them Matt, especially with the ethanol present in modern fuels, I’d also drain the tank and coat the inside with a half a cup full of petrol and 2 stroke oil mixed.
Just my thoughts bud, I’m sure others with vastly more experience than me will be along shortly 😊
All the best bezzer
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Post by mattybeckett on Oct 21, 2017 19:06:26 GMT 1
I did run the bike until it died with fuel tap in the off position, but then guessed there will be a slight amount of fuel still in the bowls which might go manky. I didn't realise the screws were for that reason and only thought they were there just to drain any crap and water out which might of built up. Iv'e only used ethanol free fuel since i deox c'ed the tank. I keep thinking if it's dry the air will dry everything and let the white corrosion to start forming.  |
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Post by earthman on Oct 21, 2017 19:38:07 GMT 1
Personally I'd want to keep the bike ready for the road even during the Winter months, sure I wouldn't rack up huge miles but an half hour ride every other weekend or whenever it's dry must be better for a machine than laying it up for months? I'm addicted to riding bikes period, thankfully Winters seem to have become fairly mild over recent years, ice/snow would prevent me from taking a bike out though.
If you must lay the bike up, would say filling the carbs with 2 stroke oil be a good idea to prevent the white corrosion? Draining and getting the bike to run properly again would be a hassle whatever you did do probably??
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Post by rigga on Oct 21, 2017 20:50:16 GMT 1
Always found by running the bike till it dies only empties the left hand Carb on mine, as the fuel pipe to the right hand Carb is longer from the tap, drain screws is the ticket, but my oko carbs don't have those, ill just keep running it when weather permits.
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Post by steve h on Oct 21, 2017 20:51:41 GMT 1
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coose
Drag-strip hero
Posts: 270 
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Post by coose on Oct 21, 2017 22:16:02 GMT 1
If it's going to be left for a period brim the tank and fill the carbs with super-unleaded as it generally contains no ethanol. Ethanol draws the moisture out of the air and causes corrosion, so if there's no air there's no (or minimal) moisture to draw.
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Post by bezzer on Oct 22, 2017 4:58:23 GMT 1
Not all super unleaded is completely ethanol ‘free’. The pumps should be marked E0, E5 or E10 after the fuel grade, i.e 95 E10 etc. E standing for ethanol and the number being the percentage by volume. I’ve not found E0 yet, but I guess the trick is use the lowest possible you can find.
We use 0 at work as a reference fuel in engineering cars, but this is blended directly by the fuel company, in this case Shell at Stanlow.
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Post by bezzer on Oct 22, 2017 5:49:56 GMT 1
Just found the following info from Esso’s customer service dept:
“Esso super unleaded petrol (Synergy Supreme+ Unleaded 97) is ethanol free (except in Devon, Cornwall, the Teesside area and Scotland) and we have no current intention to add ethanol to Synergy Supreme+ in other areas of the UK.”
However, it seems that all fuel companies will have to add 10% (E10) eventually and 5% to their premium (super) unleaded fuels.
Apparently Miller oils make an additive compatible with ethanol for laying up purposes, be interesting to know if anyone’s tried it?.
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Post by earthman on Oct 22, 2017 9:07:36 GMT 1
Does ethanol cause problems in modern vehicles? My bike and a car or two that I've owned have had plastic fuel tanks rather than metal, is that down to ethanol??
The leaking fuel taps on LC's, is that because the ethanol is attacking the metal components or the gasket material?
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Post by jon on Oct 22, 2017 9:26:11 GMT 1
I wouldn't personally dran the carbs over winter. I think it's much better to start it every month or so. Very wise to fill up with ethanol free fuel first though.
I don't like the idea of the rings sitting in the same place for a long period, or the crank big and small end. Any moisture (perhaps entering the exhausts in damp climates) will start to rust these items.
Jon
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Post by rigga on Oct 22, 2017 10:13:23 GMT 1
Every time i pop down the garage I kick the engine over once with my hand just to move things about
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Post by looey on Oct 22, 2017 10:17:57 GMT 1
I've done this lots of times, turning the tap to the off position, running the bike till it stopped, then removed the carbs to find a fair amount of petrol still in the float bowls !. What I've found is,.... with the tap in the off position, it effectively stops any fuel leaving the pipes etc. (like say holding a straw vertically full of liquid and having your finger on the top, which stops the liquid draining out). Then over time, the fuel finds its way out of the pipes down into the carbs and puts a fair amount of fuel back in the float bowls  What I do now is,..... turn the fuel off, disconnect the line/lines from the tap, then run the bike till it dies. For the last 10 seconds or so, as you can hear it starting to run out, using the choke will keep it running for a good 10-15 seconds more. Once that's done, I put plugged stubs of petrol pipe of the fuel tap outlets to eliminate any chance of fuel getting past the tap and down into the carbs. Doing all these things (pipes off tap, block tap outlets and using choke at the end of running) will make the bike run for a good 20-30 seconds more and will pretty much empty the carbs. It's what I do anyway and never had carb probs when a bike has sat over the whole of winter. |
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Post by bezzer on Oct 22, 2017 10:19:06 GMT 1
Does ethanol cause problems in modern vehicles? My bike and a car or two that I've owned have had plastic fuel tanks rather than metal, is that down to ethanol?? The leaking fuel taps on LC's, is that because the ethanol is attacking the metal components or the gasket material? Ethanol is hygroscopic (like brake fluid) and attracts moisture from the atmosphere, in your tank via the cap vent and overflow lines in carburettors. It also apparently makes rubber fuel lines and gasket / ‘O’ rings brittle. As said previously if ethanol free fuel is available it seems pertinent to use it. I read on a US boating forum, it’s a big issue with outboards, so ethanol free fuel is available over there, also, water trap/moisture separators in fuel lines are used to combat the corrosive effects. |
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Post by earthman on Oct 22, 2017 10:29:03 GMT 1
Does ethanol cause problems in modern vehicles? My bike and a car or two that I've owned have had plastic fuel tanks rather than metal, is that down to ethanol?? The leaking fuel taps on LC's, is that because the ethanol is attacking the metal components or the gasket material? Ethanol is hygroscopic (like brake fluid) and attracts moisture from the atmosphere, in your tank via the cap vent and overflow lines in carburettors. It also apparently makes rubber fuel lines and gasket / ‘O’ rings brittle. As said previously if ethanol free fuel is available it seems pertinent to use it. I read on a US boating forum, it’s a big issue with outboards, so ethanol free fuel is available over there, also, water trap/moisture separators in fuel lines are used to combat the corrosive effects. Thanks for the info, it really doesn't sound like an ingredient that petrol should have in it,.....will the rubber and gaskets be affected on modern vehicles in time I'm wondering. Potentially we could have a lot of dangerous vehicles on the roads then. |
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Post by mattybeckett on Oct 22, 2017 10:43:25 GMT 1
Every time i pop down the garage I kick the engine over once with my hand just to move things about Me too' and plug the exhausts. |
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Post by bezzer on Oct 22, 2017 10:47:32 GMT 1
A good point earthman.
When the European beaurocrats were investigating the proposal of including ethanol in petrol (to improve the combustion process and lessen emissions), the British association of classic vehicles asked to be included, but were dismissed as it would ‘sidetrack’ the thought process. Manufacturers were asked about impications for their current vehicle ranges, and interestingly none of the ‘big four’ Japanese manufacturers could guarantee machinery prior to 2007.
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Post by rigga on Oct 22, 2017 10:59:30 GMT 1
Ethanol also swells plastic fuel tanks, often when people remove tanks during rebuilds etc, the tank won't physically fit afterwards, Ducati having huge problems, triumph too.
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Post by bezzer on Oct 22, 2017 11:03:14 GMT 1
Ethanol also swells plastic fuel tanks, often when people remove tanks during rebuilds etc, the tank won't physically fit afterwards, Ducati having huge problems, triumph too. Interesting point rigga, hadn’t realised plastic was affected too. Some forums suggest fibreglass tanks have delaminated due to ethanol content too. |
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Post by rigga on Oct 22, 2017 11:18:15 GMT 1
Basically its shit stuff which does more harm than good, but those in power just want a higher content of it.
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Post by bezzer on Oct 22, 2017 11:45:49 GMT 1
Basically its shit stuff which does more harm than good, but those in power just want a higher content of it. 👍🏻🤣 Nicely summed up mate! Lol. |
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Post by earthman on Oct 22, 2017 12:17:15 GMT 1
Ethanol also swells plastic fuel tanks, often when people remove tanks during rebuilds etc, the tank won't physically fit afterwards, Ducati having huge problems, triumph too. That's interesting, which models of Triumph do you know of? I have the Trophy, funny thing is, like some other owners, I've found that it doesn't run well on super unleaded anyhow so I'm kind of stuck with the regular stuff. |
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Post by rigga on Oct 22, 2017 13:35:56 GMT 1
T595 and speedtriples I know as friends have found out to their cost, also I need to resurrect my ccm but I need to drain the tank first and leave it a bit in case its swelled and the mounting bolts won't line up.
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Post by earthman on Oct 22, 2017 13:48:23 GMT 1
I've not had to remove the tank on mine yet, I've removed all the plastic body panels around it, boy it's a really odd shape, extending around both sides of the bike.
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Post by mickt1964 on Oct 22, 2017 18:06:15 GMT 1
Steve H
Have you used the Aspen fuel in your LC?
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Post by mattybeckett on Oct 22, 2017 20:18:17 GMT 1
Steve H Have you used the Aspen fuel in your LC? Not yet ! |
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Post by copper99 on Oct 22, 2017 20:25:15 GMT 1
Even the owners handbook on my 2002 Honda Firestorm advises draining the carbs and fuel tank, then adding some oil into the tank to help prevent rusting for longer term storage, for years ive syphoned the fuel out and added some 2T into the tank...and down the bores..
Also consider a full tank is quite a weight /pressure on the fuel tap and if it gives or isnt sealing 100%, you need to hope your carbs stop the fuel ending up in your crankcases and pipes...a fairly common issue we hear about on the forum.
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Post by iwantalc on Oct 22, 2017 20:36:09 GMT 1
sounds like most fuel you get from a regular garage is all ethanol based ,, there is a garage not too far from me that still sells 4* more expensive but might be worth buying ..
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