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Post by looey on Jul 13, 2014 17:46:17 GMT 1
Do you have another right hand carb you could try on it, or maybe swap the carbs across (don't know what type of carbs you're running and if that would be possible) ?. I had trouble with an X7 we bought earlier this year that wouldn't run properly on the right cylinder. Checked all the carbs were clean, everything setup correctly but still wouldn't play. Borrowed the right hand carb from Tracey's white X7 and then perfect, ran spot-on. Must've been something hidden going on in the carb beyond anything removeable (including needle jet body etc.) or setup. Just a thought to eliminate the carb if nothing else  |
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Post by looey on Jul 9, 2014 16:25:37 GMT 1
Moochos grassy arse  |
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Post by looey on Jul 9, 2014 15:33:38 GMT 1
Do you mean the removable metal ring around the pipe about 5/6mm behind the rubber seal ?.
If that's the case, then I assume that when that hits the crankcase opening, the pipe is still sticking out enough to allow the casing to go on the pipe and seal ok ?.
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Post by looey on Jul 9, 2014 15:07:51 GMT 1
Any ideas how to get the pipe to hold in position whilst I get the casing back over it ?. It's obviously going to be a very tight fit and I can see it just wanting to push back out of the way rather that slide into the casing fully  |
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Post by looey on Jul 9, 2014 14:59:31 GMT 1
Done it, cheers. In the end I ran a bolt through the casing hole directly above the pipe, then put a washer and nut the other side, then put a steel rule across the face of the crank case face and as I wound the screw in, it pushed the casing off Cheers for the advice, mainly wanted to make sure I wasn't going to break something I'd forgotten to undo |
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Post by looey on Jul 9, 2014 14:45:47 GMT 1
Having trouble removing the r/h clutch engine cover on my YPVS engine  All pipes, cables and casing screws are out and the casing has come away about 10mm all the way around but it just won't come off the water pipe connection . Am I missing something or is it likely to be just furred up stuck and need some more force ?. It's so stuck on the pipe that if I push the casing back on, it pushes the metal pipe back throught the engine casing !!!  Any ideas ?. Cheers |
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Post by looey on Jul 3, 2014 22:41:00 GMT 1
Nice one, that's a nice easy fix for once |
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Post by looey on Jul 2, 2014 17:23:04 GMT 1
If it's more smokey on the right cylinder then it could be the crank seal.
Is it the same colour blue smoke from both sides or is the right hand side smoke a bit more white in colour ?.
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Post by looey on Jul 2, 2014 15:32:50 GMT 1
Is it more smokey on the right cylinder and fouling that plug ?.
That would be crank seal letting geabox oil into the right cylinder ?.
What are the plugs like if you take them out directly after it drops to one cylinder ?.
Is the right hand plug dry or wetter than the left plug for example ?.
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Post by looey on Jun 29, 2014 11:48:30 GMT 1
Update !. Pretty much 100% sure it's the oil pump seal now (as some said it would be ). I've had the sump plug out for 3 days now and a clear plastic tray underneath. It's letting out a drip of oil every hour or so, which isn't blatantly red but I think that's because by the time it has made its way through the gearbox and out the drain hole, it's probably getting slightly contaminated with gearbox oil. I reckon the longer I leave it, the more red the oil will start to become. Can't see the gearbox oil would still be dripping out after 3 days or so ?. Looks like I'll be ringing Norbo for some parts tomorrow |
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Post by looey on Jun 27, 2014 10:57:26 GMT 1
I think it must be a very common problem, as the only other YPVS 350 I have owned also had the same problem  |
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Post by looey on Jun 27, 2014 7:59:27 GMT 1
Yeah Jason it is your old bike and I've just got it run-in and running lovely, so hope it's just the pump seal. And thanks for the info Mr Muttsnuts, I'll do that test once I've got some oil back in it The problem should not have reoccurred that quickly. It might be worth having a look at the fit of the worm shaft bush in the r/h casing. If it is loose then this will drastically shorten the life of the worm shaft seal. I don't think the problem did occur that quickly mate, I've had the bike a couple of years and not touched the bottom end or changed the gearbox oil in that time  . But it's only done about 500 miles in my ownership and spent most of its time with the top end off  |
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Post by looey on Jun 26, 2014 21:11:06 GMT 1
Welcome in mate, |
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Post by looey on Jun 26, 2014 20:25:16 GMT 1
Yeah Jason it is your old bike and I've just got it run-in and running lovely, so hope it's just the pump seal. And thanks for the info Mr Muttsnuts, I'll do that test once I've got some oil back in it |
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Post by looey on Jun 26, 2014 16:16:00 GMT 1
Definitely sounds like 2 stroke oil then. Good news is it's not a crank seal Do you think 2.1L is enough in there to vent out then ?. I'll do like Arrow said and leave it empty of oil until I need to use it next to see if any 2-stroke oil comes through (I hope it is to be honest) . If it does I'll do the seal, if not I'll try the bike with the correct amount of oil in there and keep an eye on it. I'll also temporarily run a longer vent pipe and route it so if it does let some out it's not directly onto my back tyre |
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Post by looey on Jun 26, 2014 15:15:06 GMT 1
Good idea that Mr Arrow Thing is, the 2-stoke oil is about as red as it gets and the oil that came out is a dirty brown that you'd expect after a couple of years ?. |
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Post by looey on Jun 26, 2014 15:12:34 GMT 1
I know some on here use GL4 EP 75/80 gear oil in their gearbox, and my YPVS has had Hypoid 80 in it for the last couple of years at least with no problems or slipping. Well I was in Euro Car Parts today and saw this stuff on the shelf at £15.30 for 5 litres (£3.06 / litre). It's a Mineral gearbox oil suitable for EP and Hypoid applications. Anyone know why it wouldn't be suitable ?.  |
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Post by looey on Jun 26, 2014 15:07:18 GMT 1
Well, despite showing correct on the dipstick, I drained to gearbox oil out this morning and got 2.1L !. Is that enough over to vent out when giving it some stick ?....lol Oil doesn't look contaminated with anything though but I've never changed it (same oil from when I bought the bike), so I'll put the correct amount of fresh oil back in and see what happens |
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Post by looey on Jun 25, 2014 23:18:21 GMT 1
I'm using the Exol Optima Racing Oil as well in various bikes. No problems so far  |
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Post by looey on Jun 25, 2014 22:30:41 GMT 1
A 10mm bolt in the pipe......lol Be a bugger if it is the crank seal, just got it running nice for the first time in a long while and now the bottom end gives up... lol I think I'll run a longer pipe from the vent to a container, then pour the oil back in each time it gets full  |
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Post by looey on Jun 25, 2014 21:58:51 GMT 1
Deffo not 2-stroke oil leaking in, as that is red and the gearbox oil is still the same level and the same grey colour it's always been.
So the right crank seal is an option ?. I thought they usually sucked oil in and smoked alot rather than blew pressure out ?.
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Post by looey on Jun 25, 2014 21:47:19 GMT 1
So, went for a brisk ride on the YPVS tonight and have a slight problem which I've never had before with it . Whilst I was riding, it appears to have been venting gearbox oil out of the top rear breather. Not enough to change the level in the gearbox but enough to show on the rear tyre and put a fine spray over the swingarm and under the rear mudguard etc. Now what could have caused it to start doing that ?. The gearbox oil level is still spot on checking it on the dipstick and there's no contamination from coolant or 2-stroke oil ?. Any ideas or things to check ?. |
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Post by looey on Jun 23, 2014 8:50:56 GMT 1
Just be careful with needle settings, as they have quite an input at lower throttle positions. i.e. if you put the clip in the groove nearest the top end of the needle (so letting the needle drop in further), if you're cruising just inside the power-band with very low throttle input, then that's when you could run lean with nasty results ! . Good luck |
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Post by looey on Jun 19, 2014 21:12:14 GMT 1
Optimates are very very good, but like has been said, I wouldn't leave them connected for long periods. We have several bikes and I just connect them one at a time once a month and they keep fine. I can't be taking batteries off bikes all the time, as we use our bikes all year around. I know of several people who have left them connected over the winter to find the batteries dry and knackered |
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Post by looey on Jun 19, 2014 18:45:05 GMT 1
Yeah see what happens moving it that way. If it's running rich in the mid-range and spluttering, then the taper of the needle needs to drop down more into the jet to reduce the amount of fuel coming in . The only way to do that is for the clip to move further away from the tapered end of the needle to allow it to drop in further. But see how you get on . |
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Post by looey on Jun 19, 2014 18:00:15 GMT 1
I had this with an F2 I had. It spluttered so much through the mid-range it was almost unrideable. I moved the clips one position nearer to the end (hence letting the needle drop down further) and it was pretty much perfect after that |
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Post by looey on Jun 18, 2014 21:24:56 GMT 1
No problem mate, it's what these forums are for. When I was 17 a purchased a UK 12A model brand new, ran it in for 600 miles, then had the first service by the supplying Yam dealer. I then fitted a brand new small can allspeed, lifted the carb needle one notch to richen up the mid-range a little and it was easily as fast as any standard 10W model like the one I have now |
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Post by looey on Jun 18, 2014 19:05:57 GMT 1
It's only the exhaust that really restricts the 12A model over the 10W full power model. Change the exhaust for a genuine 10W, or a Micron, or an Allspeed and you will have a full power bike. The different pipes do give different power characteristics though. For example an Allspeed will give a better spread of power than a Micron, but the power will stop dead at 9,500 rpm. The Micron pipe is a bit more peaky but will rev right out to 10,500 - 11,000 rpm (and eat your crank quicker.... ) |
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Post by looey on Jun 17, 2014 19:56:02 GMT 1
TLC = Tender Loving Care If the rest of the engine is standard, then I'd leave the jetting as is. Mine had a 140 main jet when I originally got it. |
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Post by looey on Jun 17, 2014 19:53:10 GMT 1
Meet a guy who makes trail bike tanks out of ali, wanted £3.5k for LC ten tanks  Well I'd be happy to pay £350 for a good ali replica tank for my LC. One thing you always loose on ali replica tanks is the pressed seam, so they usually have to make the height a few mm different to compensate. |
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. But it's only done about 500 miles in my ownership and spent most of its time with the top end off 
