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Post by looey on Sept 7, 2014 18:12:18 GMT 1
Should only be the exhaust as far as I'm aware, certainly is on the Mk1
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Post by looey on Sept 7, 2014 17:34:28 GMT 1
That's a Mk1 restricted exhaust. If it's not been done already, in the neck of the downpipe there is a restriction tube held in with 2 welds that can be ground off with a dremmel and the tube removed  |
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Post by looey on Sept 6, 2014 10:16:29 GMT 1
When I do my YPVS top end, I fit the barrel nuts just hand tight, then do the process as Muttsnutts does. Obviously once the head it torqued down for the first time, then tighten the barrel nuts.
When I re-use a head gasket, I fit it with the thinnest possible smear of clear RTV silicone sealant (just enough to give a shine) and not had any probs with that either. Put any more on than that and it will squash out and start to block the water jackets.
Some say use sealant, some say absolutely not, but in my experience not had a problem either way. Certainly wouldn't use any on first time use on a genuine head gasket though.
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Post by looey on Aug 15, 2014 21:31:05 GMT 1
hi yes if u could get some pics up of it would be very interested! cheers Will do mate, probably be Sunday now, as I'm pretty busy till then. |
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Post by looey on Aug 15, 2014 9:11:15 GMT 1
I've got what I think is a Nikkon exhauts for a 125LC hanging in my Garage.
Its got some pitting on the downpipe and a bit of road rash on the lower part of the pipe, but I was going to repair it cosmetically with some chemical metal, re-paint in BBQ black, then stick it on evil-bay to see what I could get. There's no end can either.
I'll try and dig it out later and have a closer look.
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Post by looey on Aug 7, 2014 8:50:21 GMT 1
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Post by looey on Aug 7, 2014 8:31:05 GMT 1
I still stay whatever is leaking past it should be coming out the carb overflow, not filling the engine !.
Have you double checked the overflow outlet is not blocked ?.
I did have a bike some time ago that I couldn't stop the petrol tap leaking past when in the off position, so I just made a couple of stubs of petrol pipe with plugs in the end and stuck them on the tap when I was't using it.
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Post by looey on Aug 6, 2014 18:33:21 GMT 1
Even if your petrol tap is letting fuel past in the off position and your needle valve is also leaking, the fuel should be finding its way down the float bowl overflow tube and out the back/bottom of the float bowl.
I'd be making sure that's not bloacked first, so the worst case until you get it fixed will be petrol dripping on the floor and not filling the engine ?.
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Post by looey on Aug 6, 2014 11:52:33 GMT 1
Can't see you could possibly have a problem with it on premix ?.
If you look at the spec sheet it says suitable for premix and injection and it's a racing oil, so most would be using it via premix I woulda thought ?.
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Post by looey on Aug 6, 2014 10:48:23 GMT 1
I bought 10L of this stuff for £54 including delivery a couple of months ago and have been running it it a few bikes with no problems at all. It was also in the bikes I ran at Cadwell over the weekend At £5.40 per litre you can't go wrong |
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Post by looey on Aug 4, 2014 19:50:09 GMT 1
I have to say Mr Chef, you did a cracking job mate  I think we all may have died from malnutrition had you not been there  |
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Post by looey on Aug 4, 2014 18:31:37 GMT 1
all them piccies and not one of the awesome chef you had or his amazing food,lol. Is that you Chef ??..... |
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Post by looey on Aug 4, 2014 18:02:42 GMT 1
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Post by looey on Jul 28, 2014 17:01:29 GMT 1
Yeah no worries mate, maybe next time not the results of races in the title.....lol The coverage is on Channel 4 - Saturday 9th August 7am to 8am I believe |
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Post by looey on Jul 28, 2014 16:00:17 GMT 1
I'm really glad I saw the title of this post as I was scrolling about the site. I shall now delete the scheduled TV recording I have for it, as I know who won now  |
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Post by looey on Jul 22, 2014 14:25:52 GMT 1
I have a bit of splutter during the flat spot nothing major but the odd misfire so could try needle clip position. Which way should I go. Up or down. Even if it eases it slightly would be a help If it's spluttering, then it would appear that it's running rich there. To lean it out, you need the needle to be lower into the jet, so move the clip on the needle one position nearer the end (i.e.further away from the pointy end). Be careful though, if you lean a 2-stroke out too much in the mid-range and then cruise on part throttle in the power band, they will be using the clip position as part of the fuel delivery process, which if lean can lead to obvious consequences  . You could try it one clip richer first to confirm that it makes it worse. Does it splutter more or less if you give it more throttle at that point ?. |
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Post by looey on Jul 21, 2014 22:44:58 GMT 1
In my experience, if you want any power at all before the powerband, then it's a standard pipe with the correct setup you need.
I have virtually every type of RD125LC pipe here for mine (12A, 10W, Allspeeds, Microns (large and small can of both), Nikon etc.) and there's bugger all going on before the power band on any except the standard pipes.
I've settled on a later detachable end can type Micron but with a straight through aftermarket end can which gives the best I can get whilst retaining all the power you'll get upto 10,500 rpm.
If yours is particularly bad (maybe spluttery ??) in the mid-range just before the power band, then it maybe a needle clip position change you need to iron that out ?.
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Post by looey on Jul 20, 2014 14:30:28 GMT 1
Nice one thanks, just as I thought Do you know if it's easy to get them apart at the splitter and just change the top section ?. |
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Post by looey on Jul 20, 2014 11:46:09 GMT 1
Yeah know the part number as I have the parts catalogue for the R1-Z. The TDR has a different top end where it goes into the switchgear I think. The TZR250 one looks identical (there's a very good picture of a genuine cable assy on Yambits site) yambits.co.uk/tzr250-throttle-cable-p-52429.htmlI'm going to ring Venhill on Monday to ask if I took just the top section to them, if they could rebuld it for me. Would be nice to get hold of a TZR250 cable though to get them both apart to compare. I find it hard to believe that the top section of the R1-Z throttle cable was a one-off Yamaha made just for the R1-Z ?. |
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Post by looey on Jul 20, 2014 10:51:51 GMT 1
Anyone one here familiar with the Yamaha R1-Z ?.
I need to replace the throttle cable on ours in the not too distant future (well only the top single cable section if I possible) and can't find anywhere that can supply one.
I've done some research and cross referencing and the only one I can see that might be the same is the TZR250 2MA.
Does anyone know if that one is identical, or know where I could get a cable to fit the R1-Z ?.
Even if I could find a Yamaha cable that shares the same top section, then I'd be happy to buy one of those and swop the top section onto ours at the splitter box ?.
Any ideas anyone ?.
Ta
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Post by looey on Jul 19, 2014 12:13:26 GMT 1
Oi oi John , The Classic Superbike Show & Autojumble at Ardingly is also the same day (wasn't great the last time we wont....lol). www.elkpromotions.co.uk/Dunno which (if either) we might go to |
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Post by looey on Jul 15, 2014 17:54:45 GMT 1
Nice one, moochas |
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Post by looey on Jul 15, 2014 17:39:26 GMT 1
NICE  Can I have it please ?  |
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Post by looey on Jul 15, 2014 11:48:46 GMT 1
Ok, got my Hybrid charging ok again, coils and reg/rec tested ok, turned out to be a combination of corroded/loose/bad connectors at the reg/rec, plus a bad chassis earth on the reg/rec body. Now has 13+ volts on idle with or without the lights on. Still need to sort the loom/plug connector longer term and may well go with Rich's suggestion of converting to the earler 6 wire version. But...... I do need to buy a new Reg/Rec anyway, as the red terminal on mine has corroded then snapped half way down across the connector securing hole  My question is, has anyone tried these aftermarket 4 wire reg/recs ?. They have the same plug fitment and do look like they will cool better than the standard F2 unit ? www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rectifier-Regulator-for-Yamaha-TZR250-TDR250-FZR400-RR-FZR600-RD350-YPVS-RD500LC-/360895771637?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts_13&hash=item54071073f5 |
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Post by looey on Jul 14, 2014 22:33:14 GMT 1
Aahhhh, that's useful to know. If it turns out to be the reg/rec that's faulty, then maybe the 4L0/31K will be the way to go. The F2 type is only 4 wire isn't it ?, where do the other 2 wires come from ?...  |
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Post by looey on Jul 14, 2014 21:59:46 GMT 1
Ok, latest problem with my Hybrid after finally getting it running properly and sorting oil leaks etc.....IT NOW HAS A CHARGING PROBLEM !!! Battery only showing 13.5v at 2,000rpm with no lights on, and battery voltage actually drops at any revs with the lights on . Going to investigate further tomorrow, but already noticed that the wiring to the Reg/Rec is 4 individual female spades crimped onto the end of the loom, so would like to get that sorted by re-fitting the correct type of plug to the loom. Anyone by any chance have an old connector from a chopped/knackered loom I could buy to re-fit, or know where I could buy the correct type of plug to fit into an F2 Reg/Rec ?. Cheers |
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Post by looey on Jul 14, 2014 18:30:31 GMT 1
Sorry yeah shoulda said, that's running Foam Pod filters. It doesn't like 9 grade plugs with that setup Took it out for a good brisk run today, running very nice but now I've noticed it's got charging issues !!!!  |
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Post by looey on Jul 14, 2014 17:50:54 GMT 1
Yeah sounds a good plan.
I'm running 152 mains in my PWK28's with B8ES plugs and after ridding it pretty briskly the plugs are a nice safe colour .
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Post by looey on Jul 14, 2014 10:46:55 GMT 1
So what's the difference between an EG & ES plug ?. (I see it now, it has a finer wire centre electrode) I wouldn't have thought it would be the oil, the Exol Optima is a clean burn, low smoke fully synthetic oil, especially running as weak as 40:1 ?. I guess if nothing else has changed then you could go back to your old oil and see what happens but I've been running that same oil in a couple of bikes for a while now with no problems. My Hybrid was fouling plugs when I was running it in with B9ES' fitted, I dropped to the standard B8ES (no resistors) and it's run sweet ever since. I think if you're safe/correct on the jetting, there's no need to go to a cooler running plug that won't burn as clean ?. |
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Post by looey on Jul 13, 2014 19:46:36 GMT 1
And a quick blast with a hairdryer to get them nice & soft first They do run pretty sweet with pod filters on the PWK28's. The trouble I've had with mine over the last 12 months, re-fitting the carbs with the standard airbox would've done for me I reckon |
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